Thanks, I love my Unimat SL Lathe, so versatile. I put considerable time and effort into the camera work, editing and production of all my YT videos. Cheers Paul

Thanks for your interest, cheers Paul

Thanks for your interest, yes, the Unimat is an amazingly useful and versatile little machine. I see you have an interesting hobby restoring old timepieces. I've always respected the fascinating precision engineering in old clocks and timepieces.Cheers Paul

@@SteamerEdge Dear Paul, indeed a useful and quite precise machine, in drill mode it can be easily converted to a light milling unit if feed mechanism is built. And it bridges the gap between C1 and watchmakes lathe. Jacot tool can also be used here in conjunction with watchmake's spindle and the thread follower is very versitile. Thanks, Sanjay

Thanks for you kind comment, cheers Paul

I to was not exactly sure on how to cut tapers. This was very helpful. Thank you.

Hi Kev, thanks, I try to keep the vids interesting. I wanted to show a few things that would have been great to know about when I started with the Lathe. We'll see how the viewing response goes...maybe a bit more about working with the Unimat in the pipeline at some point....regards Paul

Hi, thanks, I tried to make it useful for beginners. My other ""All about the EMCO UNIMAT SL Lathe " video on my SteamerEdge channel may also be of interest. Cheers Paul

Danke

🙂Thanks for your comment

Thanks, its a brilliant little lathe, enjoy cheers Paul

@@SteamerEdge , Where can I get/obtain this Unimat Emco???

Hi Les, thanks, yes, I love my little Unimat. I always enjoy watching your interesting videos. cheers Paul

Thanks

Thanks for your interest. Yes, I live in Cape Town - cheers Paul

Thank you for watching 👍

Thanks, yes, the Unimats are like an addiction, once you get started there's no stopping :-)) Cheers Paul

@@SteamerEdge I'm like that with heavy vintage machines.....but I've been collecting all the Unimat accessories for years. Anytime I see a piece I don't have, I grab it. The deal I made with my wife was no more machines bundled with options and tooling. Only stand alone deals..... So last year an ad on Craigslist for a COMPLETE with every option some stuff I have never seen before or since came up for sale about a mile from me. It was in an original crate/footlocker thing. It had been opened and looked through but it had never been run. He wanted 3000 for it. I couldn't even get ahold of my wife to ask her and since she's been forging my signature on everything for the last 30 years I can't even cash a check without her help.... So I told a friend about it. I said buy this and when she gets back from her sister's I'll buy it from you. I negotiated a deal for 2000 and told my friend I'd give him 200 bucks for his trouble... HE KEPT IT FOR HIMSELF and sold it off piecemeal. Made a FORTUNE and lost a friend. He didn't even know what a lathe was....

Thanks :-))

Hi Christopher, I use 4mm dia Polyurethane Belting material This is a fairly common commodity and you should be able to easily source it in your area. They can be cut precisely with a very sharp hobby knife. Join the belt using heat, something like cigarette lighter or a flat-bladed soldering iron. There are already a number of YT videos showing how to join Polyurethane belts, just do a YT search. Still, a very short video about this is not a bad idea, thanks, and I probably will do one at some point. Cheers Paul

Hi, Johnny, in my opinion this is a great quality Mini Lathe for a novice to Model Engineering. Bear in mind that this is a Mini Lathe and should be used for Miniature modelling projects, machining larger items will be beyond the scope of this lathe. Have look at my original video "All about the Unimat SL Lathe" on my SteamerEdge Channel to get an idea of the scope of this lathe. Cheers Paul

My Tool Post is custom built. I have a Unimat SL Tool Post Modification video in the pipeline which should be published in due course. The video deals with how my custom built modified Tool Post differs from the Standard Unimat SL Tool Post and the dimensions of my Tool Post. RDG Tools online store in the UK has a Standard Tool Post for the UNIMAT SL

Hi, unfortunately not, Keep looking on Ebay, and other 2nd hand websites, networking with other Model Engineers etc. Hope you find one

Hi, over the years I have successfully machined Mild Steel, Cast Iron and Drill Rod ( Specialized Carbon steel ) with my Unimat SL. You need to be patient, take very light cuts, keep lathe tools sharp and keep the work piece well lubricated during machining. Cheers Paul

Thank you so much

Hi, thanks, I use 4mm diameter Polyurethane Belting material This is a fairly common commodity because it has many industrial applications and you should be able to easily source the Polyurethane belt material in your area. This belt material can be cut precisely with a very sharp hobby knife. Before cutting, measure the right length by placing the belt material on the lathe drive pulleys to acquire the tension you feel is right. Measure twice before cutting to make certain and then mark the cut with a pen. After cutting, try the cut belt section on the pulleys again to determine if correct length has been cut before joining. If not, either shorten or start again. Join the belt using heat, something like a cigarette lighter or a flat-bladed soldering iron. Carefully smooth the rough edges at the join using coarse sandpaper. There are already a number of KZfaq videos showing how to join Polyurethane belts, just do a YT search. cheers Paul

@@SteamerEdge Thank you for the informative answer. I have since tried 3D printing a belt with TPU (flexible filament) and it was a great success. I have not run it for any length of time though so time will tell if it's a feasible solution. It's flexible but not stretchy like an o-ring for e.g. would be so I will need to print various diameter rings if it continues to work. I assume you are South African? I'm in Cape Town :)

@@SteamerEdge Actually - if you are in SA then do you have a link at all for the Polyurethan Belting?

Hi, I live in Cape Town. I got my polyurethane belt material about 10 years ago from a company called Belting Ware located in Maitland, Cape Town. I think they also use this belting material for Sewing Machines there should also be other suppliers in S.A. Just search for "Belting Ware Cape Town "on Google. You need a 4mm round Polyurethane belt, the belt is sold by the meter .

Hi, I have a video in the pipeline which should be published within a week or two about a modifications to the standard Unimat SL Tool post. The video also shows the standard Tool Post dimensions. You can also buy a manufactured Tool post, which fits the Unimat from RDG TOOLS. Have a look at their website and type Unimat Tool Post in the search bar. cheers Paul

@@SteamerEdge Thanks! I'll look into it.

Hi, I use 4mm diameter Polyurethane Belting material This is a fairly common commodity because it has many industrial applications and you should be able to easily source the Polyurethane belt material in your area. This belt material can be cut precisely with a very sharp hobby knife. Before cutting, measure the right length by placing the belt material on the lathe drive pulleys to acquire the tension you feel is right. Measure twice before cutting to make certain and then mark the cut with a pen. After cutting, try the cut belt section on the pulleys again to determine if correct length has been cut before joining. If not, either shorten or start again. Join the belt using heat, something like a cigarette lighter or a flat-bladed soldering iron. Carefully smooth the rough edges at the join using coarse sandpaper. There are already a number of KZfaq videos showing how to join Polyurethane belts, just do a YT search. cheers Paul

@@SteamerEdge you can use super glue also, I’ve never had one break at the seam

I find that most lubricants will do, I use a mixture of 80% gearbox oil and 20 % rapeseed oil.

@@SteamerEdge Good to know. Thank you.

⁹​@@SteamerEdge

Hi, I measure the amount of advance by putting the jaws of my digital caliper against the sides of the Cross slide while it is moving. It always measures exactly .99 mm advance per rotation of the Cross slide hand wheel. It is supposed to be exactly 1mm of advance movement per full rotation according to the manufacturers specifications but my lathe advances .99 mm. The amount of longitudinal movement of the Cross slide is also exactly .99mm per rotation on my lathe.

@@SteamerEdge sure, but digital calipers have already a tolerance +/-0.02mm. What happens if make ten or twenty turns?

Hi, agree, the degree of accuracy wanes on a number of revolutions of the hand wheel. I learnt the hard way long ago never to rely on the graduations on the Unimat hand wheels to gauge depth of cut if you want very accurate results. I usually only work to a 100th of a mm tolerance in all my projects. I use the Carriage return stop and take constant micrometer or caliper readings for accurate turning. You get a feel for what works as time goes by. I am aware that there many other ways of doing things. I do what works best for me.