I award you and Quinn with gold stars for teaching.

You can have a NO switch in the key holder in series with the start button that prevents you from starting the machine if the key is not in there.

Awesome tips! I will be doing many of these now. 😀 Thanks for the shout out too! “I don’t remember what was in this bottle” slayed me. 🤣

Really like your chuck spider.

Given you have a VFD and the ELS, you should get a DRO. But also hook the sensors of the DRO to the for the crossfeed position to the VFD, so that the RPM will increase to keep constant tool surface speed when cutting narrower diameters. Of course you'd have to set offsets and such, but it substantially improves surface finish when facing or turning part features with widely varying diameters.

The best modification in my shop, is yours ELS system. 👍🏻

As always James, outstanding video. What’s funny is that most of your improvements are also mine. I started with a lathe way cover made of leather (inspired by Stefan Gotteswinter) and I moved to two branded sheets of metal overlaping. I also have the habit to hook systematically the chuck key on a plastic (PMMA) support bolted on the lathe structure. I would really appreciate some protection around my small Sixis S101 mill, however, there are cranks everywhere (it is not CNCed) and the few attempts to install screens where not successful at all. I also made a spindle block, but I shall confess that your project was my source of inspiration 😀 many thanks.

Nice looking shop. On your lathe make a larger size nut for the tail stock and the tool post wrench will fit the tail stock as well.

Lots of good stuff. I really like your machine enclosure. Thanks for sharing!

Outstanding video James! I'll be using some of those same mods. Very helpful. Thanks for sharing!

I'm restoring an old Logan 400 lathe and I have dreams of buying the lathe you have. Glad I found your channel. Cheers!

Love the key holder! I'll remix for my lathe which has a larger 'turn over' at the top of the chip guard.

I used a 1L PE squeeze bottle for my reservoir and I just cut the feed tubing and pushed it onto the dispenser nozzle and it works fine. I didn't like the sloppy mess in my table after a milling job so I took the right end plate off the table, drilled and threaded a through hole at the table floor level and installed brass tube fittings so that I could add a return tube back to my reservoir, mounted below the table. I tilted my mill slightly so that everything runs to the hole and the liquid clears by gravity alone after a job. A piece of filter material in the return tube blocks any metal bits from getting back into the reservoir. This worked well too but I've since upgraded to a mister with an independent fluid valve and I reduce my coolant flow so that no liquid builds up in the table but my tools stay cool to the touch and the return system now stays mostly dry.

LOL, That thing about leaving the key in the chuck is the first thing they thought us when I was doing my Metalworking Education at school, it brings back good memories 👌

I’ve had a G0602 for several years now. I’m very glad I found your channel.

Excellent tips for the home workshop. Thanks for sharing.

This is the first video I’ve seen of yours and really enjoyed seeing your improvements. 👍

thank you, great tips. I also have a G0602 but my chuck holder is on the front. I did not buy the stand rather I put mine on an old Craftsman cabinet I have. I had a plywood flat the lathe sits on and, on the edge of that, I screwed down an extremely flat box end 3/4 hex wrench I found at a flea market. Cut off all but the end then drill two holes. its a good sold steel holder for the chuck key. now your under chuck chip tray I am about to build just like you have out of a old microwave casing. FINE TIPS> Keep'em coming!!

Like your use of 3D printing... and really like the spindle lock mechanism, for cutting keyways; nice job!

So glad I watched this video, I subscribed. The chuck key holder had me convinced (printing one now). Thanks, JH

I love the spindle lock for broaching! Very clever! :)

I like the lathe chuck spider and mill enclosure the best. I have a Bridgeport mill so a solid enclosure won't work but I think I can come up with something using a clear shower curtain. Thanks for the ideas.

I laughed WAY too hard at you "not remembering" what was originally in the Coca-Cola bottle 🤣

Excellent tip on the tailstock anti-rotation screw!

Great improvements. Great tips. Thank you for sharing.

Dang, finally someone that gets it right about 'leveling'. Every guide says it has to be level (wrt gravity), but that's BS like you said. All that matters is the bed isn't twisted

Thanks for sharing these helpful tips!

I agree with Peter below. The ELS is really good. Amazing range of feed and thread pitches in both metric and imperial and very easy to use. BobUK

Great tips James, thanks for sharing. I modeled and 3D printed lathe tool holders (similar to your chuck key holder) which hook to the backsplash. They don’t slide around, look pretty cool and are super handy. Used the same idea on the Tormach enclosure for hanging the vise handle and dead blow. And 3D printer numerous adapters for the dust collection system where nothing stock seems to fit together. Is there anything the 3D printer can’t do? 😀

Most Excellent!! I just acquired the same mill and was going to bolt it to the floor....But not no more. Thanks again for show the easy improvements are a lot of just common sense events.

This channel is excellent! Really really nicely explained and presented - subbed!

I made a tray that fits in a similar fashion to your chuck key holder, only comes into the space rather than behind it. It has two large holes which hold those tapered anti spill paint pots, having oils & brushes in. I've used sheet metal (sprayed to match my lathe). Also another that holds torx keys. I don't have a 3D printer.

Some great advice, thanks for sharing.

THANK YOU Sir for sharing your knowledge and tips! NOW, I need to start figuring out how to operate my used mill and lathe... LOL

When I converted my PM25-MV to CNC, I found that tramming the spindle with regard to the table wasn't enough to produce good parts. I found that the column itself wasn't square to the table and as the head went up and down instead of the quill, the cutter was being shifted left/right and forwards/backwards resulting in oblong holes while drilling. So I created a column shim plate out of some cold rolled steel. I used a magnetic chuck to keep the steel as flat a possible while I faced it. I tried a couple of other ways to hold down the steel plate, however I found the cold rolled steel tended to warp pretty bad and I couldn't get the constant taper I needed. I used various stainless steel shims under the corners of the magnetic chuck to get the exact angles I needed (sorry but I don't own a double hinged magnetic sine plate to have done this properly). Now that the column shim plate is installed, there is no shift in X or Y axis when the head moves up and down the column, and the drilled holes are no longer elongated.

I like the idea of the cover for the ways. I may do mine out of something clear like plexiglass and leave room under it for the carriage stop that actuates the feed rod clutch.

I use my 70 yr old Atlas lathe nearly every day and my mill is not much newer but with patience and a lot of skill and knowledge gained over many years I get good results. It just takes longer than using new machinery.

Love that 3-d printed 2-liter cap for coolant.

For that anti-rotation screw, in a similar application, i machined a brass 'plug' that is screwed onto the 'adjuster' screw, so that it is a brass part against the steel slot, guarantees that it never damages the slot, and gives just a bit of adjustable 'drag '

The square nut on the drawbar on my METRIC mill is 3/8, I had some old worn out 3/8 sockets so I cut of the socket parts from 2 and welded the 3/8 drive squares together cutoff to cuttoff and now i use a 3/8 drive butterfly air wrench to tighten/slacken the drawbar.

I love these ideas. Only think I'd change, is if you're not sure if your cnc mill is going to launch a part or tool out, maybe swap out the coraplast and shower curtain for some 1/8" polycarbonate. Quite a bit more expensive, but also much more likely to catch a flying metal part.

Thanks for all of them mode very interesting . ill be trying some out

Really good tips here. On my lathe I cut up some aluminum sheet to make a way guard and attach it to my carriage with rare-earth bar magnets so I can take it off and on easily. Only down side is when milling steel the fragments get caught on the magnets. But it works. Thanks for the video!

I use magnets to hold chuck keys and wrenches. Big speaker magnets under the chuck catch those nasty cast iron chips. Cover the magnets with a rag for easy chip disposal. I also use magnets to hold screws n bolts when I take something apart. Great simple video...thanks.

Nice! Missed your intro and machine shop stuff :)

if i had a shop i'd be using all of these tips. but hey! many ppl start a shop with no tips whatsoever. im lucky to have learned so many things before hand!

Two things on my small lathe that were just annoying; the noisy chip panel behind the lathe and the tail stock lock. Automotive sound deadener on the backside of the panel cured the oil canning sound. The tail stock lock bugged me because it took about a full turn to unlock and have the lock plate under the ways clear enough to slide smoothly. A compression spring of sufficient length placed around the locking stud between the bottom of the tail stock and the locking plate pushes things apart with a 1/4 turn and solves that problem.

Thanks James

Absolutely Brilliant! (as they say "across the pond")

My favorite was a power draw bar. In combo with tormach tool system, it makes for really fast tool changes.

I really like the chuck spider. Not that people wouldn't notice, but that is a 12 point box end wrench and not a 6 point for the tool post holder.. I like the way your feet actually bolted into the underside of the tail stock. The 5" Emco-Maier I had 20 years ago only attached to the chip pan, which was just not rigid enough.

Oh man that 3D printed chuck key holder is brilliant. I'm going to have to steal that. Right now I just have a 2x4 sitting on the front of the lathe with a bunch of holes drilled in it holding my chuck keys and wrenches and so forth much less elegant 🤣

Lots of nice little upgrades, and DRO is a must especially if using machine that you need to do metric and imperial on imo

I made a version of your way protector for my lathe and found it was more of a hindrance than an advantage as when using a stop I could not see the stop. Made it difficult to set and use. Tried perspex which was ok , but prone to cracking. In the end I ditched the whole idea.

I'm new to your channel and have learned a lot. Thanks!

Big thumbs up to the lathe spider - will be fabricating one of those 👍🏻

James, your lathe VFD upgrade videos are extremely helpful, Thank You! I followed your videos to upgrade/repair my lathe last summer when it's stock motor and electrical components failed, they were 40 years old. I use a 110 v to 220 v step-up transformer to generate 220 v for the 2 HP VFD and 2 HP 3 phase motor, this works very well for anyone who does not have easy access to 220 v power. The lathe now runs super smooth, has way more turning power and having the instant infinite variable speed control at your fingertips helps dial in excellent cutting results. Your are a great teacher and your channel provides excellent content, thank you again and all the best.

Great video well presented thanks for sharing

Re the chuck key holder, add more security by adding switch connected to VFD enable. If key in place = OK // if not = NO GO Cheers from Sweden Bengt

Very nice bed levelers.

I bought a German branded drill/mill that everyone has. I built a steel stand with a deck lean left to right, to drain the coolant. Some drawers from stock were fitted into the base for tooling. At someone's suggestion the vice is mounted at the left end. I am this moment modifying a trailer hitch. I was able to use either the vice or the top without shifting anything. In due course (haven't we heard that before) I will add a backbar to the rear of the table so that the vice will be automatically square on when remounting. Because my shop is very dusty (working on reducing that to just dusty!) I put a roof on my box. That keeps the machine clean.

Make a chuck key holder that detects a magnet glued to your lathe key so that the lathe has an interlock requiring the key to be sensed before spinning up!

Suggestion for spider. Take .25 x .75 (& 1 & 1.25 & so on) by 6-8" long. Bend at 120 degree, then weld same stock (1/2 OAL) weld on at 120 degree. Mill / grind parallel. Put that behind your part. It will spin, but can not fall out.

Nice video my man! You just got yourself a new subscriber :D

Nice chuck key holder, I would add magnets to it in place of the screw holes, also to the 3d printed wedge tool holders mentioned earlier..

LOL I'll tell all of my enemies :D Good video!

Thanks for the tips

Thanks! 🙂

I like your workshop !

Coroplast has gone up a bit, bought a 10pk of black & white special order from HD for like $110. Closest equivalent now is $155/10pk. Bought it for a Hackaday Prize entry project heat exchanger but all those remnants are going to be put to use now!

At 16.00 that's a great idea. First time I've seen it.

Nice job

Thanks for the share

Great stuff, my next project is a chuck spider.

here's a thought on that toolpost wrench. I'd build up a portion of the wrench with some welding on the outside of the nut - holding area then I'd mill a flat on that welded up area. Next I'd bore and thread for a decent sized set screw. Move the wrench so that the set screw is over a flat on the nut and tighten using low strength Loctite. Now you don't have to go looking for the wrench. It's always there :) .... and if ya really want to go to town, I'd drill a dimple in the nut for the set screw to lock into.

I have the blade of an old broken garden hoe screwed to the front of my Chester Lathe above the gearbox levers for the chuck key. VFD and DRO are definitely on the cards, as and when I get the chance. Very interested in the coolant bottle top, I just have to find someone local with a 3d printer....thanks for sharing the file.

Very nice. Some serious thought has been brought in for your shop. I would love if you did a walk through of your cnc conversion. What software are you using? Love the clean conversion.

Excellent chanel buddy, greetings from Colombia

Your way cover was inspiring. I decided to make mine out of leather.

I also have a G0602, so I've run into the same issues as you. Something you didn't mention is the clamp ring at the base of the compound; it is very flimsy, and the main culprit of chatter or worse when machining steel. You can realize a lot of improvement by simply using the clamp ring spun 180 degrees, but you won't be able to see the protractor. I have designed and built a new clamp ring which is much stiffer while still allowing a clear view of the protractor. It is stiff enough that I can part off steel using a 1/8" parting blade with no chatter at all.

Here's a mill tip from me..... Move your vice toward one end of the table - as far as it'll go and still be fully accessible for use. There are 2 benefits: 1. It'll move regular slide wear to one end of the table (The table has 2 ends but only one middle) 2. It'll leave more table space for clamping directly to it without the need to remove the vice such that it loses its alignment.

Great channel, subscribed.

OK sir...You hooked me... I am now a subscriber...

Thanks for the video and for sharing the great upgrade ideas. Question about the milling coolant - how is it captured? i assume it is an open loop system where the coolant is captured and then manually recycled?

Great video! I hope you meant a 9mm 12 point socket would fit the 8mm drawbar on the G0759. I’m sure the 6mm won’t fit.

at 8:33 your dog tip cap screw for the tail stock spindle. you may want to cut another half thread off and under cut the dog tip slightly so the dog tip rides just barely inside the keyway..not at the top surface of the keyway.. so it can't raise a burr as you exert torque on the spindle with big drills.. at 6:34 your tool post top nut.. machine a taller version. like a coupling nut. machine off all but the bottom inch of hex.. where the wrench will live.. the upper part is smooth so you can lift the wrench without it coming all the way off to get a new grab on the nut.. but.. create this new nut tall enough that you can create a cap nut to go in that has a hex or double D shape on the flange OD.. and a drilled and tapped hole for some kind of camera mount.. easily allowing you to mount a camera on top of the tool post. one might modify a air hose quck connect plug to screw into the top of the nut.. and a plug for the end of the coupler to mount a camera bracket on... allowing a crazy quick disconnect camera mount that won't obstruct the wrench removal for more than 2 seconds. might need to look at Double hex drivers and a double hex bolt to fit in the coupler so you can index the coupler on the double hex bit on the top of the plug.. so it does not swivel.. you could also.. change one coupler ball to a larger diameter.. and dimple the groove on the plug.. so you could index the camera angle in a second by pulling the collar up. on your mill quill bolt. create a broach to punch a 8mm square hole thru some grade 8 nuts. so you are not wearing the tips of the square drive.. but the cheap grade 8 nuts using a conventional socket.. or even an adapter you make to live on the quill bolt top.. when i have a bunch of holes to tap in hard places.. i drive a properly sized hex nut on my tap square drive ends so i can get a better bite on it with a wrench. i used to fix cars a lot. i.imgur.com/Vv09FT1.jpg

Interesting use of the mill to make keyways, Have you used the CNC function to do the work for you, Then just have a set of G code for each size. Thanks for your videos they are so inspiring.

One way to straighten out a small piece in the chuck is to put a drill chuck in the tail stock. Bring the tail stock close. Put the part in the lathe chuck and tighten very slightly, just enough to hold it. Then bring the jaws of the drill chuck inside the chuck. Bring the chuck to the work and using the tail stock hand wheel, push the part into the lathe chuck until it’s where you need it. As long as the part is somewhere close to parallel, the works very well. Then just tighten the lathe chuck. Alternatively, you can get a Morse taper and make a large flat and put it on the end. Make it perpendicular to the work, and you can use that for larger pieces. This isn’t absolutely perfect, but for most work, it’s more than good enough. But for really precise work I have a tool with replaceable parallels of different depths that fit into the lathe chuck will keep the part accurate to 0.001”. But it’s mostly not needed. Smart idea with the spindle lock, but never forget when it’s locked! Maybe something that will slip or break away if the motor is mistakenly turned on.

For the chuck key holder in place of screws try a piece of magnetic sheet from a fridge magnet. Stick it to the face of the tab on the backside where it meets the backsplash and it should have enough grip to hold the key holder in place.

Funny that you mentioned Blondie Hacks because I found your channel through her's. Good times...

Great video Thanks a lot

I e always known a spider as a tool that mounts on the back of the spindle to center a long work piece that runs through the spindle bore, I use mine for blueprinting rifle barrels

I'm a little behind the times, since I just found the channel, but I had a thought while watching the tool post grinder series. How about a hook/holder for your air ratchet on the front of the mill enclosure? That would keep you from having to go down to the floor for it. One for the air gun might be handy as well, and maybe even the vice handle.

Even tho it wasn't your idea, the chip tray on the lathe is one I think I will attempt on my Mori Seiki just for the ease of chip removal. I also like the 3D printed bottle to clamp the tube.

Hi, Interesting tips thanks for sharing.

Cool mods. The bed adjustment system is cool but your loosing a lot of rigidity. I have a comparable lathe and tried this same similar setup and found that the bed would twist a few thou with very minimal pressure. Just traversing the carriage from one end to the threw it out .003". I fixed this by mounted it to a 3/4" steel plate spanning from one end of the bed to the other and used machine epoxy to level it. Try putting a dial indicator from the bed to the table and watch how much flex is actually occurring. Thanks for posting! I enjoy your content.

Just started watching your stuff, awesome. Trying to start my own little hobby set up, any suggestions on how well you like your mill?

Chuck Spider: SWEET!

nice to see someone using light weight materials like coroplast instead of 1/4" steel.

Im really enjoying your shows, friend! Im at the transition point of retiring and getting on with updating my shop tooling to include a lathe and mill with some CNC ability. Ive been a Cad pilot almost all my life starting with Autocad 2.2 but only current to 2004. I hope you dont pull a This Ol Tony on me and stop youtubing. Thanks for your efforts!