Rest in peace sir! You will be sorely missed! Much respect to your family and friends! Best wishes all

I love that he has always been focused on the skill and the knowledge, never on the equipment

Mors has probably forgotten more about wilderness survival than I'll ever know. Thanks Mr. Kochanski!

Mors is a living treasure. The wisdom he's distilled down over the years is very impressive.

Over 70 years old? You sir have my total respect. And thank-you for sharing your experience and knowledge. By the way you look great for that age.

‘After you’re properly dressed and you have an assured method of starting a fire...’ Words to live by Gentlemen.

I expected to see at least some fancy hand made blades with super steels in them, but no, Mors made every knife look like the best bushcraft knife made. What talent.

This gentlemen is a legend to survivalist everywhere. As a newbie to this trade, hats off and my deepest condolences. RIP sir Kochanski

He was awesome a legend!! RIP

Rest in peace we will all miss you

"Never trust a lockblade." EVER!

People cared for their equipment enough then to take care of it, and replace missing parts. Never trash, always found a use for something broken. And tradition had meaning, seems in 'bushcraft' these they need to get the biggest coated D2 rockwell 7million hardness knife to match their ego.

Great video mors a very good teacher of mine for many years hats off to the best

Brilliant. I love knives and I idolize Mors! I've got a skookum bush tool on order right now.

so cool

Say Heah Mr. Kochanski, Because of you, The Skookum Bush Tool is one of my Fav's, I had mine made with a little more curved bwlly, and Yeah, it's an awesome carver, and slicer, Thanx Mr. K, , ,

Many thanks for the information, and I apoligise for my sharp comment.

I have been reading your works for Years! Glad you are on youtube!!! I have always wanted to ask, why do you wear a beret or tam? I am sure there is an excellent reason, 'the more you know the less you ....." I think need would be good! Keep Healthy, great seeing your videos!

Thanks again for another great video! I know there are separate schools of thought on whether a knife should be used as a pry bar or not, & I have my own thoughts on that. In these vidos, I don't recall any example given where the knife can be used to pry something. Sorry if I missed this info somewhere, as I'm not trying to cause any trouble, just would like to hear more on this subject. Mors, can you elaborate on this more? What specific examples would you use the knife to pry? Thanks.

cool stuff,, thanks, Sorry to be so random.....have seen Mors Kochanski talk about a belt that will accept & hold a bow saw blade....Looking to try that...any suggestions on the belt?

RIP

Say Heah Mors, Like I have mentioned and yes Rods Skookum is prolly still one of my Fav's, Thanx. But also I have some good knives in that size. A "Tank" and yet a great knife is my B H Bushcrafter(mine is made by Blind Horse but tgeir made by Battle Horse and L T Wright and still great knives. I also love my Benchmade Bushcrafter #162 another great one in S30V. But I'm finding one that I have that was made by George K he made me a more pointy 4" blade with a extremely thin but very Sharpe edge out of a saw blade, He went by the G E K Logo, what's interesting is its a 3/16" thick and it has a choil, and it works wood brilliantly, I mean it's awesome and hold's a great edge and it's pretty strong. Also I have a little more traditional style it's a Puukku but made by Cold Steel it's a beaut, It's my SISU which is a copy of the Tapio Wirkkala Puukku but with modern material like the San Mai 3 with Linen Micarta Handle and nickel silver bolster and pommel, Yeah knives is one of my passions, But I'm realising knowledge such as yours is the most important, After all your home made plus your knowledge is prolly better than my Skookum plus me. Thanx Mors.

any opinions on Buck Knives?

Glad he used the term "prybar" so people know they can put a good knife through hard use.

Mr. Kochanski, you talk about a prybar that works wood all day, well I bought one of these prybar's yuppie the Skoocum, its a 1/8th"+, and I got mine in the 3V steel, it was you that inspired me to get a Skoocum, Rod even told me about the trade off, and said the Moral is a better cutter because its thinner, so there is that trade off, my BR Brave 1 is a tougher knife but a thinner is a better cutter, that's the same with steel, the 3v will hold a better edge but is harder to sharpen, Thank God

What is the model of the Boker you used?

Mr. Mors, You talk about a strong knife, but what is your favorite length for your knife?

Theres diamond sharpeners, and I chose that steel because its my first 3v knife, I have knives out of O-1, A 2, 52100 and on and on, but because you talk so highly of the Skoocum, I got one too.

does Mors still do survival training?

what is the model of that boker knife?

very simple knifes

I've had a $300 Emerson lock up on me. Thankfully my reaction was sufficient to avoide a catastrauphic wound and I ended up with just a cut. Still, I'll never trust it (or any other so-called locking blade) again.

Hi Mors Kochański i m kochański too XD

Well Mors, I think most of the knives shown would make decent small pocket knives. If sharpened properly they would make good feather sticks and be used for whittling small pieces of tinder or kindling. But as you said most are unsuitable for batoning. For that you need the one-tool option on your belt, or in your pack. For my primary blade I like something considerably more robust. OTO means the sort of knife you'd want on your belt, if all of your gear accidentally disappeared after your canoe or Kayak tipped over in the river. In that case all you have left is the knife on your belt. Or had your gear stolen while off on a scout, which happened to me once.) An OTO knife should have six criteria: 1) It should be a full-tang knife, meaning the whole knife, minus the handle covers from the blade tip to the base of the handle, is made of one continuous piece of metal A single piece of metal makes the knife much more robust, capable of doing a lot of work. It also allows the knife to be used as a prying tool. The blade's maximum thicknesses should be at least 1/8" thick. 3/16" is better. 2. Regardless of the style of the knife design (drop point, Nessmuk, butcher knife) it should have a cutting edge that is five- to six-inches long with a Scandinavian grind and ideally with a radius on the cutting edge for skinning game. Shorter than that and it won't split four-inch material. Longer than that and it becomes more difficult to do fine carving tasks. Also called a Scandi grind, this blade profile typically has a symetrical grind profile on each side of the knife, usually at about 10-12 degrees per side, from near the mid-line of the blade to the cutting edge with or without a secondary bevel on the cutting edge of the blade. Knifes which are full-tang with Scandi grinds are very well suited for batoning to split small diameter wood and create kindling, cutting notches, making feather sticks, process game and also do fine cutting tasks like making a fire board for a bow drill set. 3) A sharp 90 degree spine is well suited when attempting to create ignition using a fire steel like a ferrocerium rod or mischmetal. Or for scraping bark or other tinder off of a tree or branch. This helps save your OTO's main cutting edge for the most critical tasks: making incisions, processing game and processing wood for fire. 4. The knife should be made of stainless or 1095 high carbon steel, depending on your location in North America. People living near the coastal areas where there is a lot of rainfall should probably choose Stainless steel. People in the inland states and provinces of North America might be better served using 1095 high carbon steel. The down side of 1095 HC is its tendency to rust, but it also has excellent edge retention. 5. The knife must be able to be used to strike a flint or other hard rock of 7 or greater on the Mohs scale, to cause tiny shards of steel to fall off the knife as sparks as a last chance ignition source. 6. Ideally the blade should be uncoated tempered metal. Otherwise the coating must be removed on the spine of the knife in order to satisfy criteria number 3 above. A knife like this, well cared, for will last a lifetime and make a wonderful gift for the bushcrafter to pass on to his or her a son, daughter, niece or nephew. Here are a few final thoughts on belt knives and other useful cutting tools for bushcrafting: A good full-tang OTO can still be used even if the handle covers break. Wrap it with cordage like paracord or tarred twine, or even duct tape, to build the handle up to a comfortable thickness. Even if your blade satisfies all six criteria above, it is always a smart idea to carry a back-up knife in your pack, in the unlikely event that your OTO should break, become lost or broken. It is also very sensible to carry a second cutting tool of another type, say a folding crosscut saw or a good forest axe. I like the saw in the warm months because it is the easiest way to buck logs, and an axe during the cold months. Hell, even carry both! Another handy cutting tool is a good quality multi-tool, which has many uses and is hard to lose in a pouch on your belt. A small crooked knife like the kind Mora Knives makes is a very useful tool for carving cups, small bowls or other holes in wood after the days word is done. I hope that helps those interested in acquiring bushcraft knives or other cutting tools.

No description of knives? All waffle.