Great reminders.

This is a nice extension of the Tuesday Tip. SAFE TURNING, John

Like always great information. On my lathe I drilled an taped the head and tail stock to fit a 1/4” allen screw. Then, I know it’s not the best thing to do BUT it works for me, I then make a slight grove in the Morse taper to match the allen. By doing this I have never had any thing come out or even loose . I don’t recommend doing this but it does work in my situation.

Thanks Mike, good information in this one.

Very informative, thank you!

good stuff to know mike . thanks buddy

Very useful info.

Great video,. Good information Mike. Keep them coming

Hi Mike, a common way to keep a tap or reamer straight is to use a center in the tailstock and just snug it into the center in the handle end of the tap or reamer.All good info...Richard....

Good stuff thanks .

Mike - very good video. a point that I've never seen discussed anywhere relates to the tapered arbor on a jacobs chuck. One of the advantages of having a double-ended arbor is that if you upgrade to a larger lathe (eg, from an MT1 to an MT2), you can replace only the arbor at a much lower cost than replacing the entire jacobs chuck. As you noted, it's really wise to use a drawbar to hold the chuck in place, especially if it is mounted in the headstock. But the point that no one ever mentions is how do you keep the JT-33 taper end of the arbor from uncoupling with the jacobs chuck - the drawbar holds the MT-2 (or MT-1) chuck in the headstock, but the JT-33 can still work lose, and the result is that the chuck body will be thrown across the shop.

More good info to know about my lathe!

Good information, Mike. Thanks

Hi Mike, Great tips & tricks for taken care of your lathe have a great new year. Y.N.W.A. Paul

You might try using a live center to keep the reamer straight while cleaning up minor damage to either Morse taper. The side torque from using a wrench could make the taper egg shaped if you're not careful.Those reamers usually have a dimple in the back end that would fit on the tip of the live center. Just put the live center into the tailstock to clean up the headstock taper or put the live center into the headstock to clean up the tailstock taper. Light pressure from the quill keeps the reamer engaged on the live center. An easy trick to prevent unintentional damage.

Several have suggested supporting the back end of the MT reamer with a center when doing a cleanup to remove any galling. I'm not a professional machinist, but I've been dabbling in metal machining for the past 20 years or so. Some years back I bought a MT3 reamer to clean up the tailstock ram on my (metal) lathe. That was the method I used (i.e. supporting the reamer with a center). It worked OK, but later I learned that it's actually better to let the reamer search and find its own axis of rotation. I know that sounds counter-intuitive. Anyone doing this should know that because of the shallow angle, removing even just a few thousandths in the MT socket will have a very large effect on how much deeper the male MT will then seat in the socket. You could end up where the seating depth is too much,, ie. the ejector kicks out a tailstock center before it can be fully retracted. Also, for any who may not know, all of the MT series tapers (i.e. MT 1, MT 2, ..etc.) each have a slightly different taper angle. They're very close, but each is slightly different. So don't try to ream, say the big end of a MT 2, with the small end of an MT 3 reamer. Grief will surely follow.

Cool!

When you have a morse taper reamer just bring in the quill with a center to keep the tap or reamer centered and you can use only one open ended wrench to turn while also tightening the quill at the same time to maintain center. When you do by hand without the tailstock and center the possibility to take the morse taper out of true is greater.

Hey Mike thanks for the video. One suggestion on using the reamer is to lightly place the tail stock center in the center hole of the reamer to keep it centered. The pressure has to be very light so it does not cut deeper and you can still turn it.

Seemed quite comprehensive Mike. Just a note, machining suppliers sell Morse taper in many configurations like MT2 on one end and JT33 on the other. Something I'm considering for other accessories. Happy New Year. Alan

A live center in the tailstock is useful in centering the reamer, and can also be used to center large drill bits that want to spin due to their size. A wrench on the base of the reamer or drill bit can then be safely used to do the turning. Only extremely light pressure should be used on the tailstock when using a reamer. Locking down the tailstock and using the hand wheel to put just a little pressure while advancing the tool works for me. Also, I found out that replacing the drive shaft on the lathe is not difficult on the technology that is used on many larger lathes. For instance, the Grizzly, Laguna Tools, and I believe Powermatic all have similar designs. I changed the drive shaft on my Laguna Tools 18/47 from a metric M33 thread to a 1-1/4 X 8 US Customs thread using a drive shaft from Grizzly. I don't know if the Powermatic uses the same drive shaft. In any case, the drive shaft was not as expensive as I thought it would be; so replacing a shaft might be a better idea than reaming one out with possible damage to the taper. I us a shotgun cleaning brush to touch up the inside of the drive shaft. Don't use a steel brush for this task! Thanks for the informative video!

Hello Mike very good info but i like to know if we have to tap the tread our self for the draw bar or if there is some model all ready done tanks for all your video

HI Mike, another great video thanks so much. I hope you and yours had a nice Christmas and wish you a happy new year. On another topic I've seen you using the Trend Airshield Pro powered respirator, I was thinking of getting one so any thoughts? Would you recommend it?

How about using the tail stock centre to centralise the reamer that's what I used to do with a straight reamer

Where did you find your 1” drill with a #2 taper? The only ones I can find have a #3 taper.

great video, the Jacob chuck holder do you have a video on that ? I have cleaned my MT2 since the last video thank you again