Yes!!!

Yup. No bumbling around going on here.

So do i, easy way to remember anything is to write it down

​@@pinky6863u mad, wtf

@@pinky6863 Let's assume, for the sake of easy maths, that you weigh 100kg, your car weighs 1000kg, and your bike weighs 10kg (all very ballpark figures). Your weight is only 10% of that of your car, so the difference in suspension settings needed for you vs a 50kg driver (5% of the car's weight), for example, is negligible. On your bike, you weigh 10 times the weight of your bike. Your body weight is by far the dominant weight here, so your suspension is going to need to provide far more support vs that of a 50kg rider (who only weighs 5 times the bike's weight). Will you feel the difference if you tweak your car's suspension? Unlikely. If you don't set up your bike for your bodyweight, though, then you're wasting your money. and your bike probably rides like shit.

@@pinky6863 Yeah, and driver/passenger weight is still a much smaller proportion of overall weight than you on your bike. I mean dude, you do you, but you're literally pissing away your money if you're not at least setting your bike suspension to the right pressure.

I'd make it easier. Just buy a fork w/o adjustments 😂 There is even double-crown forks like that 😂😂😂 Edit: that was sarcasm btw (but those forks do exist tho)

Use the Specialized suspension calculator. It provides an excellent starting point.

She did not learn this stuff from some "Yahoo on You Tube", I can tell. She is sporting Ohlins, (out of Sweden), who has been making top suspension components for off road stuff (starting with motocross I believe), for over 40 years that I know of, (because I bought my first Ohlins dirt bike shock almost 40 years ago.). I would bet she learned from Ohlins. She does a good job for sure.

You Mean F S Bike ...... what is squish .... ?

@@darrinkulyk9560 Squish is a full suspension, just another term.

@@ExhumedToConsume Really ya know that SOUNDS Childish ...... sounds like a X2 BLowing Up lol lol I have Over 40000km of Off Road Experience lol lol

@@darrinkulyk9560 Good for you pops! Keep at it.

Thank you! I thought I was the only one

Follow the manufacturer suggestion the first time. Then ride. If way too stiff and you are not using 90% of the travel reduce pressure until ride comfort and travel is good. I ended up at 30% + sag on my 38s. Then try and set compression and rebound. I ended up almost completely open with a little more active rebound. Ebike,180lbs.

Maybe try riding the same section of trail over and over, while only making one type of adjustment at a time. That way you will be able to feel if one adjustment made the fork feel better or worse. And when you get to a point where it feels ok, just to test it, adjust it still further. If you feel that the adjustment made it worse then you can back it Back down. But have the same section of trail as a constant gives you the opportunity to feel differences. Really hope this helps.

Welcome to the wonderful world of suspension where there are many highs and lows - Dad

Have you tried adjusting damping as well? You might find a better sweet spot if you do.

@@joashparker8271 I have, bit I always have my damper fully open, so the way I tuned it was by replacing the stock 5wt oil with 2.5wt oil, and it made a big difference in its ability to absorb fast braking bumps without packing down.

Seems like if you are between using less travel and fork dive, you should explore something like the RUNT from Diaz. You get better small bump compliance, more mid stroke support, and you can actually use full travel when needed. And no, I am not a DSD salesperson.

The stanchions are hard plated, (harder than the calipers), so they don't scratch easily. If they were not hard plated/coated, the trail dirt would scratch them up.

@EarthSurferUSA I understand but still no harm avoiding sharp tools so close to it. 😊

I made a set of plastic "gauges" in 5mm increments. They allow me to quickly find the sag I'm after without fumbling around with calipers, tape or a ruler.

That’s funny. I was thinking the same thing. I actually use a tape measure by placing the metal end on the wiper seal and measure to the travel ring on the stansion tube. I do a conversion into mm to find the percent. 😂

not getting bucked is more about technique. pump with your arms and legs on the jump, practice timing and you'll never be bucked again. even with rebound fully open.

@@MTMXBLamen to that, people always overemphasize rear rebound settings when in reality good technique allows you to run faster and faster rebound as well as gain pop off lips

@@MTMXBL I'm at the place where I don't get bucked very often but every now and then my back kicks over a little farther and I'm sure it's a lot of technique but suspension definitely has to do with it whether you're fork is too fast or too slow or your rear end is too fast or too slow. I guess everybody has their own perfect settings but I know that having more compression helps keep jumping even. I'm nothing close to a Red Bull rampage rider but they run their stuff super stiff

@@cavanero_ good technique is definitely the most important part of jumping for sure. Suspension still plays a role in that. I just think it'd be good to have a video on base settings. I guess people could always just put everything in the middle and hope for the best. My friend who jumps everything always tells me to add a little more compression

Getting bucked is poor technique, too little pressure, and too much rebound (too little damping).

"...harsh ride due to the suspension constantly being caught in mid+ stroke...." True since most MTB suspension systems aren't designed to run with huge sag, not like baja race buggies that sit halfway into their travel. (Exception for first gen SC V-10, which had near 40% sag.) And the past decade's focus in shocks and forks, air springs and dampers alike, mostly in the midrange. So if you get crosswise between "wow more midrange!" and "maybe more sag is even better!" notions, you end up as you described, harsh in the middle of the travel. I think many MTB riders, new or seasoned, don't really know how suspension works, or what it's supposed to do or how it should feel, other than to want it to just erase the bumps in the trail. What in automobiles during the 20th Century was called "a Cadillac ride" -- you don't even know there are bumps in the road, you're on a cushion of air. That sort of ride, in a MTB, really isn't achievable. And I think a lot of folks who mess about with their fork and shock, or complain it feels "harsh," just don't understand much about MTB suspension. To those riders I would say, "When you go ride a rough trail on a fully rigid MTB, do you think you can just sit there and expect it to feel smooth? No? Then why expect a FS bike to provide that, or complain that it does not?"

Absolutely correct Stone Enforcer

Yeah no kidding. An air spring that's only pre loaded for your weight at 15% is likely too stiff. Especially for a carbon XC. There's a very small window where sag is correct. Somewhere between 18% and 25% is usually a good setting for the preload. The next thing you should look at is your rebound setting if the bike is bouncing all over the place most likely your rebound is too fast. If you really want to learn how to setup your bike forget the so-called bicycle experts. Check out MX Factory fast house and top Motocross and Enduro team mechanics.

Their MTB forks are around the same price as other brands.

@@Bristecom it’s just it’s not really common on sold bikes and I’ve recently got with with rockshox, so no trying for some time.

You basically get what you pay for. I have Ohlins on my bike, I love them, but others out there would probably do just as well.

@@Bristecom really? 🤣 because öhlins starts at about $1,200... whereas most RockShox and fox Forks between 500 and 1000. You talkin about the very high-end of a few manufacturers then yes

@@rider65 Well yeah, there's probably no point in changing your forks from stock if you're only getting the bottom-end models. But when it comes to the high-end models, they're all around $1000. So if you're building your bike or upgrading, it's not prohibitively expensive like some of their high end motorcycle and car suspension can cost.

Higher spring rates for the bottoming, and less compression dampening for the small stuff. This is actually where a steel coil spring can do better than a air fork, (especially for longer travel), because you have to pump up the air to get the bottoming resistance, which also raises the spring preload, (not sure of the opposite forces of a negative spring though, if the fork has one). But with a stiffer coil spring, you would use less preload for the small stuff.

Doing a lowers will help you find out a lot. I had the same problem with the Rockshox SID feeling harsh. I checked it and it had no oil in the fork! Still feels kind of harsh I think Rockshox is more firm and rides higher in the travel than Fox. Some people like it some don't. Also it did seem to take a while to break in vs Fox.

The bushing's can also cause friction. I have 3 rs boxxer forks and 1 of them take's a bit more force to get moving (same air pressure). You can get them burnished or run slightly lower pressure to compensate for the stiction. If you have a coil shock then you will notice the difference even more. An air fork with bushings that fit correctly actually feel really smooth after the initial bit of seal friction (The air spring seal deforms when the stanctions move up and down.)

Seems a lot of people come onto the internet and "get into suspension" without knowing many baselines. Not accusing you here, just observing through your comment and others' comments in this overall comments thread. What do you mean "harsh"? Compared to what? What do you know about how forks work? You sound like you exaggerate things. "Harsh" no matter what pressure in the air chamber, no matter what damper dial setting? That's a bit hard to believe unless one of two things exists: (1) your fork's bushings are very undersized, and likely dry; or (1) you exaggerate what is "harsh" and have odd expectations from your suspension. Without knowing your experience level as a MTB rider first, and as a suspension user second, it's hard to guide you here. None of us can get on your bike and compress the fork as a standing thing, or take a test ride to feel its action.

@@seanoneil277 I've been in this game a lot longer than most so no disrespect but sounds like you're a keyboard warrior. Compared to all forks I've felt on the trails...from the yari on the fuel ex I borrowed, the revelation on the last bike I owned, the two faulty Reba's before that, heck even the xc32 that had no damping whatsoever. I've ridden pikes, lyrics, bomber z2s and between all of the different bikes I've ridden in between, but none have me given me numb hands like this domain! The common denominator in all of them is that I wasn't the first owner so could be tight bushings. Directly checking them out with no pressure they are smooth so could just need bedding in

@@stug45 You're amusing, calling me a keyboard warrior without ever seeing me ride any form of bicycle on any surface. You aren't very good at reading either, but you really want a soapbox to stand on and scream about how you're such an insanely badass rider that RockShox can't make a fork that works for you. Somehow, however, you're not in anyone's product development test rider portfolio.

I think with this much information I just have to guess?? All I know is that you have a fox 38??! So my answer is: buy a ZEB.

My CF Enduro 11% sag each END my CF DH Bike 10% each end .... Both Fully Coiled 😎

No. I am sure the coating/plating is harder than the calipers so dirt does not scratch the tubes.

I'm fairly sure Rockahox have a patent on sag markings.

@@rantingwrench It's not rocket science tech. Should not need a patent. Pretty sure it is laser burned on the stanchion and that tech has been around for 25+ years.

copy cats, like in china, don't copy very well.

@@EarthSurferUSA DVO was started by ex Marzocchi employees. What are you smoking?

Properly set up is the safest set up. This gal is not your standard "Yahoo You Tuber". She knows what she is talking about. I am sure she took classes from Ohlins, (a top off road suspension company out of Sweden for many decades, starting in motocross), and I can tell she was a good student. :)

Your legs and arms will protect you more than your suspension. The suspension is just taking away some of the work your body is doing.

Try this. Use a zip tie on the fork stanchion tube. Set the compression to full soft. Then set the air pressure until you only bottom on the biggest hit.

just because sag is a portion of your travel doesnt mean you have less travel???? Your wheel can move more in both directions, it doesnt only move towards you unless you only ride up stairs maybe

You definitely dont want 5% sag. As soon as the bike unweighted over the smallest root the wheels would leave the ground. You're meant to have sag

That makes no sense. If you have 5% sag your wheel would hardly track the ground...

There are different notions in chassis suspension, and starting at topout may seem ideal as a maths notion. But you aren't "losing" travel in sag.

Sag exists for a reason.

You have air or a steel coil spring for the spring. They both use oil through a dampening system to control the spring 'rebound", (so it does not act like a basketball), and the rate of compression, (which the spring also does).

If you have the bike, all you would have to afford are the forks.

It was easier for a kid to afford things back in the 70's though. Truth be told, communism taking over our free enterprise makes it a lot harder for people to make money.

@@EarthSurferUSA and the shock…couple thousand dollars total

This is known as bracketing that's a good approach

It's always been 15-30 percent (or maybe 10-30) depending on terrain, rider preference and chassis suspension design. Fork mfrs used to generally call for 30 as a start point, but it's only a start point. If you go back far enough the fork mfrs assumed hardtail and not FS, and on a FS bike the fork sag and rear shock sag work in tandem, and don't have to be identical in percentage.

@@seanoneil277 from what i gathered the harder a rider charges , the less sag?

@@awfully.average It seems that way, but it can be interesting to watch World Cup DH and see which riders prefer a very firm suspension and which prefer supple. And there you have to consider they are working with a run that lasts 2-5 mins, so they only need to be able to hang onto the handlebar for that long. I wonder if their trail bikes are run as firm, that's what I mean.

@@seanoneil277 mm, thanks man i get it now

@@awfully.average That would probably be with an air fork (usually. Not sure if the fork has "negative spring adjustment") because for more bottoming resistance, you would increase the air pressure and would lose sag. With a coil spring, you can go to a stiffer spring and achieve the proper sag with less preload. Air is easier to adjust, (and why more YTubers like them, plus less weight). But a properly set up coil spring system is real hard to beat for performance.

30% sag for the fork is a lot. At the back 30% is about right though. That said, there is a degree of personal preference in it.

Not from my POV. I just got a Lyrik Select+ and started from RS baseline suggestions. I'm surprised the fork works very well at mfr baseline suggestions. I'm only 145lbs and usually I have to run softer on spring PSI and damping compared to mfr baseline recommendations just to avoid jackhammered hands. The baseline suggestions on the Lyrik are dead on the money. Supportive and not divey. Calm through stutters. Might be I got lucky. Last RS fork I got was a 2011 Revelation and that fork could either be supportive in the air spring but underwhelmed on the damper, or plush in the air spring but overwhelmed on the damper. You could tune for small bump happiness or chop at speed, but not both. This new Lyrik is at the other end of the spectrum for me. Only took RS ten years! In the past decade I've run Fox F29, Fox 36 TALAS, RS Revelation RLT Ti, Manitou Mattoc Pro, Manitou Mezzer Pro and RS Lyrik Select+. The Manitous and the new RS work at the mfr baseline for me; the Fox and older RS required softer. In terms of feel, RS used to be smooth on small bump and lousy on big, and loose tolerances generally. Fox felt close tolerances, tightly controlled, but not "plush" except at speed. Manitou feels a bit in between, mostly because the damping is so good. Manitou harder to set up given more adjustments that interplay. But this new RS Lyrik is very impressive -- so far. Feels like they've gained what Fox had previously, supportive and smooth at speed.