My Most Successful Hangboard Training Experiment

Рет қаралды 31,191

Күн бұрын

Time to report about my recent hangboard training experiment for rock climbing performance. It was very successful, the results are great! This condensed debriefing shall present all important info for potential imitators. The full documentation with all details can be found over at the Tribe at / manithemonkey
A word of caution: This is probably not an ideal regimen for beginner, or even intermediate climbers, it is rather suited for advanced athletes who already have decent adaptation to the sport, and some practice in hangboarding. Assisted one arm pull ups on edges are quite intense on fingers, elbows, and shoulders. They train all links of the pulling chain, they stress lots of joints and tendons, so be sure that you're solid in those areas before you start, and keep monitoring while training. Some corrective pushing exercise is probably not a bad idea. If you try it, I'd be glad to read some feedback down in the comments! Thanks for watching and reading, stay strong, and I'll see you soon in the next one!
Chapters:
0:00 Intro
0:42 Methods (Materials, Routine, Tracking Progress, Frequency, Duration)
3:50 Results (Individual Training Sessions, Assessment Sessions)
8:50 Discussion (Practicality, Intensity, Strength Imbalance, Plateauing, Conclusion)
Pulley system I used:
US: amzn.to/3oOkcb6
UK: amzn.to/3BAlPNq
DE: amzn.to/3Avt4ol
My Most Successful Hangboard Training Experiment by Mani the Monkey
More Content @ / manithemonkey
Tip Box @ www.paypal.me/manisbeermoney , thanks!
BTC: 16rkAJ8Urha5jFBcWD7bsUvHZazmWbWoRx
ETH: 0xe63b232f81a82e3bc451504fec3c513e8c38cd8f
Streaming Channel: / @demanitized947
Climbing Gear I can recommend:
Favourite Bouldering Shoe: goo.gl/cyNsL4
Favourite Sport Climbing Shoe: goo.gl/3d65PW
Pretty Awesome Beginner Shoe: goo.gl/TrkKiM
Fine Hangboard: goo.gl/X71Ns1
Favourite Belaying Device: goo.gl/6g5yeC
Favourite Harness: goo.gl/Dm9k8L
Favourite Quickdraws: goo.gl/T5iHQ2
Excellent Approach and Hiking Shoe: goo.gl/eNPbrZ
Not Super Expensive but Versatile, Durable and Overall Great Rope: goo.gl/65BNf6
Top Performance but Expensive Rope: goo.gl/JHsDHt
Crashpad: I use the Mondo from Black Diamond, which is definitely recommendable, but apparently not available from Amazon. If I had to rely on Amazon, I’d get this Beast: goo.gl/PScBhw
Filmmaking Gear I use to create these videos:
Small Camera: goo.gl/7JHuHd
Big Camera: goo.gl/iRwk5p
Tripod: goo.gl/kQnMtz
Microphone: goo.gl/HW6dm2
Audiorecorder: goo.gl/XpnpHV
Editing Machine (using FCPX): goo.gl/t9EaL3
For those interested in Nutrition:
I wrote a little E-book about my Take on Diet, Health and Weight Loss including example Meal Plans (currently unavailable because I need to update a few lessons learned): goo.gl/cgaux4
Transparency and Disclaimer:
Some of the Links above are Affiliate Links which means that Purchases will grant me a small Commission. Since climbing gear represents a quite small niche, everything is not sold from every single Amazon store, thus not all countries are supported. However the US, UK and Germany are fully covered, you should find all of the recommended gear in these stores. And in case you're not into longer shipping, why not support your local climbing shop :)
For Customized Training Regimens, Coaching and other Business drop a mail at plantbasedclimbing@gmail.com
Instagram: / manithemonkey
Mani's Ticklist: www.8a.nu/user/mani-hubaer
Featured Music:
MAE by OKHIPHOP

Пікірлер: 55

@Jamie-kg2lr 2 жыл бұрын

Hey Mani! Hope all is well, missing your vids loads! Take care, climb hard!

@MusicScala 2 жыл бұрын

For the people who might be concerned. Mani seems to frequently post new stuff (podcasts, mobile home etc) on his patreon. So seems like he’s well and has some exciting stuff to talk about in the future!

@leoandre2171 2 жыл бұрын

Good to know

@efraimcardona8452 2 жыл бұрын

Dude, are you ok? I miss your insight and good energy. Its been a while since you uploaded. Take care.

@longboarder9989 2 жыл бұрын

I was wondering the same thing

@offline588 2 жыл бұрын

If you are interested he uploads regular on his patreon, maybe he should promote that more.

@LukeRockCimber 2 жыл бұрын

Came here to wonder what happened to Mani?!

@cdd1craig 2 жыл бұрын

Hellllloooo whereeee areee youuuu

@Velonomer 2 жыл бұрын

Wow ganz stark Mani! danke fürs teilen.

@ManitheMonkey 2 жыл бұрын

Gerne!

@marcelmougenot 2 жыл бұрын

Hey man, please come backkk

@joolsgrommers1466 2 жыл бұрын

Your two peak conclusions point interestingly at some other sport stuff. 1- taking a break sometimes allows for more gains. 2 working from MEV (minimum effective volume) to MRV (maximum recoverable volume) Might be a good strategy for fnigerboarding too. Another thing I've noticed with your experiments is the amount of volume/session. Strength gains have been shown to occur with high intensity but relatively low volume approaches. I wonder whether an experiment with much lower volumes: 1-3 hangs/pulls per grip type (and no more than two types/session) maximum for example. Thanks for sharing!

@OnSightNoMore 2 жыл бұрын

Bravo! I love your scientific method

@thynaklosgrondh8266 2 жыл бұрын

Hope you are OK. Missing your videos. Greetings from Germany.

@GetBennidover 2 жыл бұрын

Where you at bruh?

@txelcat 2 жыл бұрын

Now that's a great training video! love all the detailed analysis and graphic visualization! It is also so good to see your 'side training', which so many people tend to ignore, but it is just as important. Question: Did you also do other sort of training meanwhile? (calisthenics, weights, rings, etc?) If so, at what frequency? Thank you for the content, Mani!!

@ManitheMonkey 2 жыл бұрын

Thanks! Nope, I did no other training whatsoever during that time, not even stretching or evening runs or anything alike.

@MajinguUganija 2 жыл бұрын

Where is Mani?

@Gerardoosterwegel 2 жыл бұрын

Dude, nicely done on the documentation and analysis!! Could it be time to use a 21st-century technique such as Excel ? :D (would be nice for plotting and fits)

@joegeiger4837 2 жыл бұрын

i like this vid. so motivationed.

@davidfreel1451 2 жыл бұрын

Hey Manie, great channel ! I'm a professional classical guitarist and new at callisthenics. I really envy your home gymn. If you type 'For Maggie and Moreno' you can hear me improvise gypsy jazz on a flamenco guitar. You can be jealous of my guitar and acoustics. AWESOME super baby video by the way ! A month or so ago I showed a guy how to set up for a one arm press up in the park and after he failed his nine year old daughter popped out ten or so PERFECT reps which put me to shame. All the best from Scotland. I take it Monkey was one of your childhood nicknames, I had that too, preferred spiderman though.

@charmetroldendk 2 жыл бұрын

Well documented analysis, although the linear regression at 11:49 may be a little too forced for the long term (looks log/sqrt which agrees with a sense of deminishing returns).

@Jaihindurashtra472 2 жыл бұрын

Excellent

@ManitheMonkey 2 жыл бұрын

thanks

@alessiofoschiani7932 2 жыл бұрын

Does anyone know if something happened to Mani? Hope he and his family are well

@edcunningham5562 2 жыл бұрын

Yo Mani, when will you do another livestream? There's a lot of crazy shit going on in the world to talk about haha

@mikevanmier 2 жыл бұрын

Mani, have you noticed that deadhang times differ when using a straight arm to hang vs. a 90 bent arm?

@Goofygreyhoundgoober 2 жыл бұрын

Interesting thing for you to trial in regards to harder skin, is rhino spit - I really like it when I feel like I can’t stick to things when my skin is too hard. And it smells nice, so it’s a win win

@anthonyprestipino5200 2 жыл бұрын

Mani do you have an ebook on diet and nutrition or one on an exercise routine I could follow to gain strength for climbing? I have a weight vest, pull up bar, fingerboard and gymnastic rings. I need a specific routine to follow and I've always been impressed by your strength. Thank you!

@ManitheMonkey 2 жыл бұрын

Thanks for your interest, well I don't have an ebook on rock climbing yet, but I write customized training regimens, in the meantime I've got quite some experience with that. If you're interested in more details hit me up at plantbasedclimbing@gmail.com

@spacejackson1612 2 жыл бұрын

Hi Mani, I’m not a doctor and I searched for the muscle recently because I’m injured while climbing😢 So please correct me if I’m wrong:) I think in 11:00 discussing about phalanges, maybe you made a mistake. If your intermediate phalanges are stronger than distal phalanges, that means your Flexor digitorum superficialis is stronger than Flexor digitorum profundus. Cuz FDP is attached to the end of the finger. Btw, Thank you for your lots of high quality, interesting and inspiring videos. I always want to thank you because as a 2year V4 climber from Taiwan, you really help me a lot! Keep going Mani!

@ManitheMonkey 2 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the great feedback, you're right! Of course, the profundus goes to the finger tip, so that one is disproportionally WEAKER in my right (or STRONGER in my left). Well spotted.

@rockiesbouldering 2 жыл бұрын

Fantastic analysis Mani. I noticed your 1-arm pull-ups are at 90 degrees to the board. Have you tried being square to the board and cross compared results? The biomechanics are obviously different but might translate into bigger gains on rock. Or not!

@ManitheMonkey 2 жыл бұрын

For me, doing one armers square to a bar - or a board, feels quite weird. Can't really say why. But I think that goes for most people (or not?), I never saw someone perfectly square on a one armer.

@benmurdock4598 2 жыл бұрын

0 lol poll

@Brewsto 2 жыл бұрын

You're out of balance so the one arm becomes useless in that position. What would be better to train what you're thinking is 2 arm front on with alot of weight added. Most people prefer what mani is doing because the massive amount of weight takes a toll on your spine and the weights are a hussle.

@SnowmansApartment 2 жыл бұрын

So far, i don‘t think i have ever improved at hangboarding at all. It‘s surprising to me that you improve at the beginning so much. My current strategy is to train my forearms every 2-3 days, with curls and other exercises, and doing crimp block sessions with 80-85% of my max once or twice per week. Thats what feels the most healthy for me recently, also considering that i don‘t have any access to climbing at the moment. I‘ll see if after keeping this up for a few months, my wrists and fingers at least feel a little more robust. I‘ll see if i can build a hangboard somewhere and train assisted one armers one it too.

@syindrome 2 жыл бұрын

I remember Lattice said in a video hangboarding once per week is not enough, but this may not be true as Mani states. Also, for me board training board training is quite hard on the body and additional hangboarding really starts getting close to overtraining/injuries.

@MajinguUganija 2 жыл бұрын

Hallo, Mani? Are you alive? Are you working and quite YT?

@santinosartoris 2 жыл бұрын

Have you ever done the 9c strength test?

@ManitheMonkey 2 жыл бұрын

not yet

@borntoclimb7116 2 жыл бұрын

Nice

@climbingac4135 2 жыл бұрын

💪💪

@ManitheMonkey 2 жыл бұрын

@syindrome 2 жыл бұрын

11:15 Dave MacLeod called, said you’re cheating

@SuperNeo 2 жыл бұрын

Can you open these terms: fhc and fdr. :)

@markkealy4417 2 жыл бұрын

I'm curious about how you said that bar one arm pullups aren't correlated with climbing performance, but hangboard one arm pullups are. surely they're both pretty similar?

@mainr7142 2 жыл бұрын

Somewhat similar, but the difference in the shape and size of the edge vs a bar changes it significantly. If you don't have access to a hangboard or can't hang off one arm very well/at all on an edge, but you can on a bar, then it's better than nothing. But one could argue if you do have access to a hangboard/edge, it might be a better use of time to train either hanging from one arm with assistance from a pulley, or one arm pullups with pulley assistance