"Is that turbo lag?" "No, it's just my arduino throttle controller!"

If you're gonna DIY the throttle control I'd make sure to have some sort of kill switch for it too!

I am not a mechanic, but sometimes I am smarter than other times. When I feel smart, I watch this channel.

I am Australian. Lots of people who use their 4x4 on the beach will use a lawn sprinkler under their vehicle over night to wash out the sand and salt.

You're right about 3D printing -- it can be a minefield of problems unless you have good control of the process and materials. Polycarbonate is good, but for high strength, high impact nylon is best IMHO. You can smash nylon with a hammer and it won't break, just like the car bouncing up and down on the pucks as you drive down the road. Send me your files and I'll print them for you, I've been through the minefiled already.

Welcome to wrenching in the midwest where not fixing oil leaks is cheaper than sandblasting your frame every couple of years

"I just want a thing that makes other things reliably prefferably." My feelings exactly.

The subtly tragic way Matt said "[...] I'm just gonna go home" at 2:00 actually made my tear up just a tiny bit. Too relatable.

Afik the trick tube frame airplanes use to prevent internal corrosion is the partially fill the tubes with Linseed Oil, tumble it about, drain the extra, and let it turn to varnish.

just in case no one mentions it, i really appreciate you owning your fups!

If future Matt with the homemade throttle controller, (that's now past Matt) wants a sorted out unit..... Check any of the millions of GM drive by wire TAC modules. They're free standing units usually located next to the brake booster so they're waterproof (or at least ''waterproof''), and easily replaceable and cheap to have a spare. The fuel pedal is sorted out tech as well. Might be easy to use that as a sending unit too.

When I worked for Audi, car and driver got a bunch of press cars and took them to the salt flats. all were brand new and every single one was completely ruined and looked 20 years old after they returned them.

Oh, that off-road viper tease at the end, though!

For flushing your cooling system, citric acid should dissolve anything found in normal hose water and won't touch either metal or rubber/plastic parts. I bought some (food grade, no less) a few years ago, and it's gotten to the "when you have a hamm… citric acid, every cleaning problem is a citric acid problem" stage. (OK, citric acid or isopropyl alcohol.) If you get food grade you can also use it (sparingly) to spice up salads, cabbage, and/or cookies :D

in Michigan so much salt is put on the roads every winter that it does this to the cars. Sometimes it feels like auto manufacturers push for it on purpose to sell more cars

we use a variety of products in aviation to fight off corrosion, but the products that come straight to mind to help with your bolts are a PPG product called CA-1000 and Univair's Black Bear ii

For my motorcycle trips I do the same thing on the tools...when I buy a used bike I mostly disassmble it to inspect and repair anything that needs it. I keep track of all tools used and make a mini, but bespoke, kit for that bike. For our race cars (since we have 5 current and two former) if ANYTHING is non-standard to what we already carry that tool gets ziptie to the cage of that car because the words used by yours truly if the 35mm hub nut socket is "back in the garage" when we need to do a Saturday night front hub swap would make a drill sargent blush.

CRC Marine Grade Corrosion Inhibitor is your friend. It’s a cosmoline coating. Next time it’s stripped down, assemble the rolling chassis and give the entire thing a coat or two with everything torqued down. I live in the rust belt and coat all my vehicles with it. Works great, lasts several years, resistant to spray, and doesn’t drip like Woolwax/Fluid Film. Would be perfect for your use case.

Somehow this is the first time I would call Matt a noob from another universe. Oh hail all nerds here! I welcome you to scandinavia for a wintermoth my friend. That amount of salt is just a dailey doze my cars gets over here in Norway....yes, I do a lot of pressurewashing and slobby cleaning every year. Take care my californian friend ;)

"Bob's your uncle?" I have three uncles, none of them are named Robert.

Hi Matt, you can use low-viscosity cyanoacrylate (superglue) on 3D filament prints to make them MUCH stronger. You coat the whole thing in glue, let it flow into all the gaps between layers and then spray with activator. It's self-leveling but, if there are any bumps of glue, easily sandable. Particularly with polycarb filament you should expect an end result that is actually hard to damage, even intentionally.

Hey Matt. You will never see this comment but I'm going to write it anyway. Focus heavily on sealing around the wheels and tires. A body will help, paint will help, grease will help, but at the end of the day the best thing you can do is prevent the salt from even getting onto the car as much as possible right at the point of origin.

FYI. If you don't have tamper-proof Torx fasteners, don't buy tamper-proof Torx wrenches. I twisted the splines on every bit in my kit using them on fasteners that weren't tamper-proof. They were too weak and twisted every time. If you don't need them, don't use them. I tried to be cheap and buy one set for both kinds of fasteners and it didn't work out. I had to buy 2 more sets after destroying the first. Which is what I should have done in the 1st place.

I thought you were more positive than this Matt, rust can be viewed as a "lightening" agent, each season your car gets lighter, therefore faster. Best of all it gives you more time for your other projects with zero effort!

I love how you made your whole car a sacrificial anodes to prevent you being rusty.... Smart

I remember when you went to Bonneville, thinking “that looks sketchy as hell and it’s going to get salt water everywhere”. But I respect your decision to “just do it”. I’m a fan of the channel, keep up the good work. Honestly some of my fav videos are the ones where you fix like a dozen things on the 4Runner and discover a dozen more problems.

I can recommend one thing. For your electrics and everything else. Get yourself some circuit board conformal coating spray. Spray it over junctions joins and anything else. Even non electrics.

Going from previous arts and crafts like your lamp crankshaft I have an idea. By installing a light bulb socket, you can sell it as a super fast salt lamp and proceed to ignore cleaning it.

Yeah, a coat of fluid film before heading to the flats and after every rinse. It’s how we keep Toyotas on the road in the Midwest 😂

"Seems like I could make this happen for like 50 bucks." Soooo the actual cost will be 200 bucks? I love watching your progress on your land speed car. Good luck with your project, and I can't wait to see a video of this car at Speed Week!

your salt flat experience isnt too far off what living in the rust belt is like. fluid film is your friend.

This is why I make sure my car has a steady engine oil leak to have a nice constant oil coating all round

Did a salt spray test for a 304SS item for automotive use, after a week of testing I opened the test container and.... the only thing left were the plastic parts and the stainless steel item. Thankfully the pump was plastic and survived. All other items in the container had disappeared, steel hanger, brass nozzle, mild steel base test unit all dissolved. Thus, unit passed the salt spray test.

This is 6 months of the year where I live. Nothing is safe. You have to film everything in oil and even that is only a half measure.

Those rust deposits on your drive are actually excess mass that you've cleverly removed from the car. This is simply a cost-effective way of following Colin Chapman's mantra about adding lightness!

"My racecar is rust." Mine too, buddy, mine too.

That looks like a very slow throttle actuator response!

CLR is a great solution to clean out mineral deposits, but it also harms metal, which could be destructive if you didn't anodize the inside aluminum.

Up here in Southern Ontario (and most places where salt is applied to the roads in the winter time) we take our car to a shop and get the frame/body/crevices treat with a corrosion inhibiting product. My personal favourite is fluid film, you can use a fluid spraying gun with a reservoir, hook it up to your air hose and go to town. It works quite well and you can apply to pretty much any surface because it's lanolin. You can definitely watch a few videos on this subject. A good idea also is to completely seal off all structures which are hollow. Any kind of hole will allow water to enter unless plugged with a rubber/plastic end cap. That eastwood stuff you used it good stuff too. I haven't personally used to on my own cars but I've seen it done with good success. Compared to fluid film, I have no idea how robust it is, but fluid film seems to resist some of the most severe winters we have up here.

I immediately thought SP / Canada and then when you not only made the joke but the "I am not ya friend" helmet bit I said to myself "this is just another reason why I watch this show each week".

I used to have a small RV rental business, the two places forbidden for rental destinations were burning man and the salt flats for reasons partially shown in this video.

Fluid film, and other oil/wax undercoatings work great for parts that can’t be properly painted. I honestly hose the underside of my cars with it and it works great for winter corrosion.

Spray the car with Fluid Film before you go next time, your subjecting the car to a northeastern winter every time you go to Bonneville and anyone in the Northeast that doesn't want a rust bucket uses Fluid film or something similar annually.

That Steel It does not make chemical sense . A zinc spray will at least provide localised sacrificial anodic protection. Stainless steel particles can't. CRC make a range of zinc loaded anti-corrosion spray paints ,including one with stainless steel particles. The one with stainless steel particles does not perform as well as the pure zinc one does , it just looks better.

Worked with a Bonniville racer. I do remember cleaning up was just as time consuming as preparing for speed week. And he always said dry lake racing was much worse than the salt. He and his late brother ran lakesters , roadster and a streamliner. 360 and 362. Markley brothers.

I can't remember if you've covered this, but make sure the side thrust washers on your swingarm are greasable. This will greatly aid in keeping the salt out and obviously keeping things greasy is neat

As a northern auto mechanic, this video is more my speed. Unfortunately, this level of deep corrosion is very typical for any vehicle that's 8-10 years or older in my area. I highly recommend zinc flake coated fasteners if you are able to source them in a viable way. Speaking from experience, Geomet type coated fasteners are much, much more resistant to salt corrosion than bright or yellow zinc. The only thing better is a 300 series stainless (obviously except for more exotic materials), but as I'm sure you area aware there are other drawbacks to stainless fasteners to consider.

My boss is a saltwater fisherman and has me rebuild and maintain his reels. A fresh water rinse works but I use Wheel cleaner. The kind for aftermarket wheels to protect from road salt.

I built ships for a living, use silicone to encapsulate your bolts after install covering the head and nut end and you won't get the salt and moisture in there. Of course getting the silicone off to work on the system can be a challenge but you can't have everything. FYI painting them works also it's just not any better to clean off and silicone can be used to fill voids to shed water instead of letting it pool there.

Current Matt should build Future Matt a car wash so the car can be pushed into it and cleaned. Bunch of high presssure nozzles and lots of flow.

Fwiw, after taking 4wd to beach/islands, simply park on front lawn and put a lawn sprinkler underneath for several hours. Move sprinkler regularly. Gets rid of most salt and sand, your front lawn gets a decent watering, and still meets the laziness level required for a superfastmatt activity.

I live in Salt Lake City, and I had no idea driving around on the salt flats could be*that* bad! 😱 My respect for the amount of work that racers out there have to put into their rigs just shot up sky high!

You need an oil leak! My truck covered in oil survived a couple trips to the salt flats about 20 years ago with virtually no rust anywhere.

I usually don't subscribe to channels that do everything half assed, but, this one's special.

These parts look about the same as what a car looks after 10 years of salted winter roads. Good test.

Patreon for the win … I’m just here for the algorithm.

A friend went to the salt flats with a newly built street rod a few years ago. I bought aerosol fluid film and applied it to the complete underside and into any and all crevices. He told me everyone asked him what was on the vehicle and stated that next trip they were going to do the same. This was 7 years ago and has never had any rust issues with it.

I understand there is a water based solution heavy machine shops use on shot blasted items ( think excavators ) after blasting but before painting that stops corrosion.

Making a tool set that way is a great concept. I am moving my project CJ7 to another garage slowly and I am only going to move tools I need. If I suddenly need another tool I will go get it. After a few months any tool left behind will not be included in the Jeep's standard toolset. Thanks for the idea!

From my experience with salty roads the best way for protection is 2K epoxy primer, spraypaint usually doesnt last very long

7:12 It’s always nice when the rules align with your personal interests. 😁

My worst nightmare is my car becoming unsalvageable. I've pulled it back from the brink of the wreckers twice already, I ain't giving up, but this gave me anxiety.

I made my trailer using 50X50 equal angle. There are no cavities so nowhere for moisture and salt to hide. The completed frame was hot dip galvanized. 23 years later there has only ever been one spot of rust. Literally a spot, like a point. Not bad considering it lives outside.

I use a product called Salt Terminator that is popular with the boat guys and people up north who want to save their cars from road salt. Spray it on and it's supposed to neutralize the salt. Seems to work fairly well.

now all you cali people know how us north east people feel working on cars that deal with winter salt. lol

Hey matt.... crc salt & corrosion terminator! Just so you know it works like a charm. Have used it in jetskis and boats. Have also washed a few vehicle frames off after the winter with it. Get the chunks off and spray the whole thing down....

It's cool seeing you not give up when faced with major problems, keep it going Matt I wanna see you go super fast

Dang what a great video, this covers almost every corrosion concern I had my recumbent motorcycle project. Tons of great advice here.

pre-wsh the car with bodyshop "spray mask" its basically a soap...the salt will sit on top...but when you wash... the soap is already there underneath and in the nooks and crannies before the salt can get in.....just cake it on

I've been dealing a lot with DBW on a MS3 for the last months, project started as a stand alone PID controller that sampled the PWM of the idle output, pedal position sensor and reported to the ms3 thru an adc a fake TPS, worked good but had a few issues with hiding the idle movement from the TPS as in the end I just reported the pedal position and let the MAP do its job at idle anyway. I just finished yesterday the V2 that runs thru CANBUS, for the love of god USE THE CANBUS, the MS3 integration is great and it will idle and change state looking at the pedal not the TPS position (I was afraid it wouldnt go in idle as the TPS now becomes the butterflys position and if you are using the DBW idle aswell it the TPS will idle like at 2-5%). Easy peasy, address 256 is the MS3 "input" 4 byte long, first 2 bytes is throttle position, last 2 bytes is pedal position (might be reversed, going by memory) then address 260 is 4 bytes aswell iirc but only the first 2 bytes are the target throttle position (the one the PID loop control needs to place the butterflys at). All is running on a ESP32 and i've added a few commands thru serial bluetooth to set PID, Deadband and Pedal/Throttle limits. All of those parameters need to be set in the controller, I hoped I could set them in the MS3 software like the canbus number goes from 0 to 4095 but clip it at 500-3200 but nope, no big deal tho. Also an other thing to keep in mind is to use BOTH potentiometers in the TPS and Pedal, I used just one of both and I fully understand the safety concerns, i've added protection against potentiometers issues like full scale readings (means that one of the wires probably detached or the wiper broke) but doenst protect against random readings that could make the throttle move in all sort of directions. My personal opinion is that if any of this happens dump the clutch and turn the key, I'm running a 1.3L Suzuki samurai engine with YZF R6 Thottle bodies, lots of noise not power (I wont be accelerating at mach Jesus even in WOT). If you want to take a look at the code or have any kind of questions feel free to text? me :)

Just an idea, how about adding a 55 gallon drum or two to the trailer and getting one of those battery operated pressure washer. Wash the car while out on the salt flats or just as you come off. Always found that I would rather do stuff like that at the track rather than when I get home. "I'll do it tomorrow" means it'll be in a week or three

10% phosphoric acid will convert Iron Oxides into Iron Phosphate. Then spray the insides of the frame with lanolin.

Time 225 king pins locking up. This will cause instability because anytime you need to make a slight steering correction, you must apply more force to overcome starting friction, this results in an overshoot and the need to input a steering correction in the opposite direction and the same overshoot.

Get your ass to a marine supply store and have a looksie 'round. There's a lot of corrosion-resistant stuff you might be able to use to reduce the effects of salt in the future.

When I was a mechanic on the east coast where every winter day is a salt spray test, we would spray used motor oil everywhere under the trucks with a cheap sand blaster gun. It was the only thing that worked, and would be 100% rust proof if done once a year. Any existing rust or dirt helped the oil stick even better, so you didn't have to do any prep other than hosing off first. The various coatings didn't work at all, and sometimes made frames more rust prone, since it would trap water that found it's way in. On something nicer than an old plow truck, wd-40 might be a good alternative. Of course, you'd want to make sure that trapped oil wouldn't make its way out onto the tires at high speed. At the very least, I'd coat the RV in it.

After racing, swing by a place that does steam pressure washing for commercial trucks in Vegas and have them do bumper to bumper everything.

The best way to clean salt off is the same you you got it on. Drive through wet streets preferably with some standing water. I do this the first rainstorm every spring. All the salt in all of the pockets it gets trapped in are gone. Pressure washing doesn't do this but simply driving in rain does.

I did donuts in my truck on the salt flats. It was very clear that it was a problem when 10 pound chunks of salt started falling off every day

12:00 I'm sure you'll get lots of suggestions regarding 3d printing, but to add mine to the list: Don't use pure white or pure black PLA (and ABS/ASA, too), they're god awful for strength, clog much more frequently, more poorly bond each layer, and have adhesion issues on nearly all bed types, and the rolls get brittle and begin to crack if left in humid open air. Go with the grey PLA+ options instead.

Just a suggestion. Try KBS Rustseal. I use it on frames of cars I restore. Nothing gets through it. You have to grind it off to do any welding after the fact. Way cheaper than your spray paint.

We have the exact same opinion about 3D printers. Built a couple 10 years ago and it was just constant tinkering to get mildly useful parts. I just bought another one as well and so far it doesn’t look that much more reliable than they were 10 years ago.

yellow isn't zinc, it's cadmium. As far as painting the inside of the tubing, that's a good idea, but you might want to look into shooting the tubes with fluid film. It's a thing that they use in the Rust Belt to coat the underside and interior metal spaces of their cars to keep the salt demon at bay.

Next time spray the exposed bits down with Pam. It keeps the salt from sticking as bad.

I find it funny that someone like you with a mechanical engineering degree and a crippling addiction to laser cut steel waited so long to get a 3d printer.

Great video. As someone who lives about 5km's from the ocean across some plains, the real problem is metal now isn't as good a quaility as it once was my 100 year old compressor that sits in rain has like no rust my one that's about 10 years old rusts constantly an same goes for vehicles...its why so much metal now is treated or you are advised to treat it with zinc etc (Love to tell people to sand blast new an old metal an put it outside an watch how quick it changes)

This was slightly more entertaining than your other videos for me. I do not know why, but I really liked it. I look forward to the next one.

I work in the food industry and have bearings that get covered in salty foodstuffs then sprayed down with hot water every day. I tell my maintenance people: the purpose of grease is not to keep the bearing lubricated, it's to keep the stuff out. Even if you don't clean bearings, bushings, etc. well, just doing a full lube of everything to squeeze the salt-contaminated filth out and leave new greasy filth in the bearing goes a LONG way towards not having parts seize in place.

11:57 - Could not recommend MarkForged printers, click print and pick up your part in an hour or two. Super consistent dimensions, good stiffness for things like your air filter adapter. We use ours in a maritime application for on-demand fixes of science equipment. Not a hobby, it's a tool.

Should consider spraying things down with ACF-50 before going to the salt flats, washes off with a good degreaser

@Matt 13:00 Speaking from experience, I believe that the engine performance can be improved by tidying-up the aerodynamics at the throttle plate. For example, those two screw heads that hold the plate to the shaft. Make sure they're tight (Locktite'd), grind the heads flush to the shaft, carefully stake the remains in place with a center punch (centerpunch the threaded join so that it can never rotate again, with the shaft well supported obviously), and then polish everything smooth. Obviously the airflow at the throttle plate is relatively extreme, so tidying up the airflow at that point seems to make an obvious improvement to the engine's performance. You might want to have a spare throttle assembly on hand in case something goes wrong.

We learned that lesson the hard way too! That's why we didn't unload our bikes last year. Hopefully the weather will be kind this next year!

Fluid film does wonders as a prep Matt! I'm running dbw on a speeduino ECU for my Mazda, so far, long as the sweep is calibrated and it has power, no reliability or weird issues.

On a welded frame, I think there is ZERO chance the rust won't come back unless you chemical dip the frame to remove the rust and then dip it in a rustproofing coating of some kind. Even two-part epoxy won't last very long over rust. You cannot get the rust out of the joints inside the tubes..

The insides of all those tubes will corrode... moisture/salt water will get into all the bolt holes. Good idea to also mist the insides of tubes with ACF50, or LPS. They will last longer.

I lost it at "I'm not your friend, buddy" 😆 - Excellent as ever, Matt; algorithm hailed... 👍

3:10 without heating them too much (cause you don't want to harden them) heat your hardware with a torch and drop them in HOT used motor oil. Done outside, for... obvious reasons, this will protect your hardware against rust as best as it can be protected. I'd do a few tests on the minimum heat you can do them without damaging them. I usually heat them up for 50 seconds with a map torch hung by a wire - specifically until i see the wire get red hot (it's hardware store wire used to tie rebar for concrete - cheapest of the cheap metals) then dunk it. The heated oil is done in a stainless steel pot filled only with enough oil to cover the hardware i have. Some of the hardware i "blackened" in this fashion has been outside, in the elements for a few decades now. But the biggest proof of concept as far as i'm concerned is my brother's farm equipment where, whenever i take stuff apart, i do this to all the bolts that aren't hypercritical to be untouched (engine, transmission). I plan to test the this further down the line to enable the use on those parts as well, but for now i limit it to body and fixings. No issues so far, haven't observed any snapped bolts, at least not where i haven't seen them snap in the past in similar conditions. edit: sidenote on paint and rust and the frame. It will add weight, but you can drill holes in the frame, put paint inside and then turn that frame about in all directions for the paint to settle and form a coat on. This will create a barrier that lasts pretty well against internal rust. Have not tried this on anything big, but i do have a small trailer that i have done this on and i haven't seen rust weep out of it anymore whereas before, i'd get rust weep every time i'd drive it in rain.

"Demonetized Benchy" had this 3D printing hobbyist howling with laughter.

8:13 had me rolling. been there too many times LOL "yayyy"

I notice there are such a bundle of contrivances for numerous purposes aside from being as light as possible to assist a higher top speed at a lower energy output. Bearings are heavy and brass or bronze (better) bushes are both lighter, durable and carry a heavy load longer. One thing that does good to be heavy is coats of paint. Another idea is the wax we spray on our car in these advanced times to make them shine. Spray on rinse off. Probably doesn't add much weight either? I attempt in a small way to think of things that might help as the salt is a hobby for wealthy & one car per season does not seem to be within your budget? Those cables for the throttle are fairly hefty . Fixed. Good video Matt, thanks!!

Fill the cooling system with evaporust, do a couple heat/cool cycles, drain after a day (or 3, won't hurt anything). I know keyboard warrior comments are annoying but I've actually done this, amazing results! Keep up the great work, Matt.