Hey there Rudy! Thanks for checking out the video and for the comments! You are very appreciated! I am happy that I was able to help with your search for smaller trailers for construction and tool organization. Certainly check out Ron Paulk for the source of this trailer. His is 8x12. Also….Handyman Journey channel with Allen Lee …. He used or uses a 5x8 trailer for his business, at least a couple years ago. He has a trailer video or two if you check out his channel. One other is the channel RealWorldCarpentryRemodeling. He has a smaller trailer that is built out too. Lots of great ideas. Best of luck and on my channel, I have a number of videos that show all parts of my trailer. Check out the playlists if you are interested. Again, thanks for commenting!

Sounds like a great plan for the trailer to be multipurposed with a built out van to complement your workflow! If you ever post anything about your set up, let me know. Would love to see a video or two about it.

Thanks for checking out the video ...m5n! Absolute best of luck with your build out. What is the size of your trailer? Axle size? The 3-part deep dive from 2019 is some of my very first videos and as such, show my lack of knowledge with making videos and that I had no editing software except for the pause button on the phone camera. I do have an updated series where I look at each section of the trailer (in 2021) per video. Most videos run between 5 and 13 minutes and do mini-deep dives for each section. Check out the playlist if you think it might be a resource for you. The link is: kzfaq.info/sun/PLIG9oMcYNIl_tbHTwk8lxiHLWcue0CrrC

Hi Nikki! Thanks for checking out the video and for your comments and questions! Very cool to hear you had a ready made solution for jars and small parts/fasteners storage! I will check out the VC guy and see his tote. While this trailer, being smaller, might not have room for a tote like that, my future trailer will be larger and should accommodate. I have seen the idea of using a gap/space around the floor area for levels and flat tools/materials like platforms and thin bench tops. Very innovative. As for my small trailer and storage....I don't have any space for keeping lumber or drywall on board. On big jobs, it's all delivered. For small jobs I use my truck bed. On occasion I have my trailer and am on the way to a job on one of my "handyman-days" with filler work and I stop at the lumber yard for materials and on those days, I use the isle for any lumber or drywall or trim. Laying flat, I can get up to 12ft lengths. On angle, I can get 16ft. Even though I have a new trailer on the horizon for 2025 (that I will build out) and it will likely be 8x12, I will probably not build in any real significant space for lumber, plywood, or drywall storage. If I do, it would be a narrow slot behind the cabinets/cubbies/drawer banks and then, only large enough to hold a few 4x8 sheets of ply or drywall along with a slot for a little dimensional lumber, 2x4, 2x6, and trim in 8ft to 10ft lengths. After I bought this trailer, I was looking around the internet for shelving ideas and stumbled onto Ron Paulk and his buildout system for trailers. I was hooked. On the first video I watched for his orange trailer, he spent around 10 min talking about his approach to tool trailers and having a philosophy on what you need your trailer to do. It was there that I decided I wanted a mobile tool box/tool hauler and not a trailer for material. Once I decided that, it was easy to focus and maximize the build out.

Thanks for the comment. That is exactly what I did and found a ton of great ideas. I like Ron of course but Renovations and Repairs is a good one, The Bearded Builder is a good one, and shooshine jonny is another.

Happy I was finally able to get it uploaded! Thanks. Stay safe!

Hey there Joe! Thanks for commenting and even better, for the clever associative comments! Well played. As to the DeWalt habit….it started with a dock I helped build back in the mid 90’s when me and the guys stopped at HD for some materials and DeWalt had a big display set up and a tool sale for their “new” cordless 9V drills. I was hooked because it was cordless. After a bunch of years, I am back at work contracting and looking for tools and DW now had the 18V line out so I started in on that with a drill and driver. When the 20V line came out, I went “all in” since I was already brand affiliated. I have used the other colors and like all I have used but at this point, it is a goal of mine to keep a single type of charger for all my batteries. So far…so good with 60V flex, 20V, and a couple 12V. Had their been a Milwaukee set up in 94, the trailer would be red I am sure. As to the labeling PVC tape and sharpie marker. More of an accident really. Being color blind, I do best with high contrast primary colors and black/yellow is a great combination. (That it matches the tools?……win - win I would say!)

@@sdsconstruction I use frog tape orange a lot, and I'm on ridgid. So I like using the orange tape with black sharpie to label everything for the same reason

@@chriscolameco6850 I am with you on the high contrast look for labeling. I ended up going with FastCap edge banding (in yellow) since it is a PVC product that has adhesive and is easy to write on and has done better for me than some yellow masking tape I purchased at one point early in the trailer's history. Thanks for commenting!

Thanks for subbing

Thanks for commenting! I have borrowed a bunch of ideas from a number of contractor trailer videos so I am happy if any of those ideas can be sent forward to others! Stay safe!

Thanks for the comment and great question. Here in wine country NY, it does get down to freezing quite frequently. I pull the glues and caulks in. In the next trailer build, I will have a marine deep cycle battery system so I can have power in the trailer regardless so I will build a heat box for glues and caulks and cleansers and other liquids that freeze. It only has to stay around 45 F so it should be fairly easy to have an enclosed cubby with heat tape or a small low W heater to do the job.

All the power for the trailer comes in via the 10/3 100ft flexzilla cord. I pigtail onto the end of the cord at the reel and into a receptacle above the compressor and from there, the wiring goes to the lights and two other receptacles for the battery chargers and the end recep (that is very handy). Not real complicated. I suggest Renovations and Repairs KZfaq channel for some real cool wiring of a trailer with solar and battery power too.

Thanks for commenting! While part time year round and full time in the summers, June to August, I will take on jobs from kitchen installs and remodels and apartment flips (in between tenants) to handyman jobs where you are in and out in a day or two or three. I do not usually sub out work unless there is a time crunch. I do residential electrical, plumbing, rock, insulation, cabinet installs (and some limited custom cabinet builds), tiling, a little heat/air, and more. Jack of a lot of residential trades and master of a few. All work in my area is inspected by city/county inspectors or 3rd party inspectors prior to CO issue. It's why my trailer (undersized for what I would like it to be for what I do) is outfitted as it is with a little bit of everything I need. I would like to have more material on board such as plumbing parts (Like the Renovations and Repairs guy out of Michigan) and electrical parts. It would make jobs much more efficient having more parts and supplies on hand besides the tools I carry.

I use the 23ga pin nailer with 1in headless pins (brads) for securing outside mitres after I glue them to allow the pieces to stay in place while the glue sets (along with the mitre clamps). I have also used the pin nailer to fasten pieces together temporarily while I checked positions or creating jigs etc.... I am happy to have discovered this little gem of a nailer after having it for years and never using it. Thanks for checking out the video!

Works great for shoe molding you don’t have to chalk the nail head because paint will do that for you . Once you use a pin nailer you’ll find many more uses

Howdy Joseph! Thanks for commenting. This (and the other two that go with it) were early...early videos when I did not have any idea what I was doing with videos and youtube. The goal was to add my "deep dive" to the other videos out there which I really liked. I never actually videoed any of the trailer build since that predated having a YT channel and shooting videos sadly. But...a little while ago, I went back and did a series of "focused" videos about each part of the trailer. I called it "a-la-carte". The playlist link is here kzfaq.info/sun/PLIG9oMcYNIl_tbHTwk8lxiHLWcue0CrrC kzfaq.info/get/bejne/aNpjmKml38vQhqM.html might be a video that shows something of the shelves and their "passive restraint" stops developed by Ron. Maybe...this video: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/euCeg7OgltnXgqM.html (small tool garage) where you can clearly see the dados and stops in the slots I am not using in the upper part of this cabinet which has become my "small tool garage" since I could make a big enough cavity to store the radio and other things that didn't have a home anywhere else. The key for me is dado slots that are 3/4" while using a 1/2" shelf and the 1/8" stops to keep the shelves and drawers from opening during transit. I used both a dado stack in my table saw and a makeshift router template and 1/2" upcut spiral bit to make the slots (depending on which tool was easier to use at the time). The shelves are just slightly smaller that the width of the opening so they slide but don't bind up if there is too much space. I missed that detail on some where they are too small and can bind up if they are pulled out or pushed in on an angle (very frustrating). I will pay very close attention to that detail on the next trailer build!

Thanks for the comment! I routed all of it. The drawer bank cabinets all have 3/4in dados where some were run through a table saw with a dado stack but others were routed. All the tool cubby slots were routed with a 1/4in upcut spiral bit on a 1 3/4hp dewalt corded router. If felt like a million slots but when I was done, I was and still am so happy I did it. It so versatile to modify to the tools I have at anytime in the trailer. Next trailer, I will be doing the same and maybe even make the spacing every inch instead of every two. It doubles the routing but wow.....what a thing it would be to be able to adjust cubby widths to the inch and would allow for maximization of that entire space.

www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QW4916R/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 12 Pack Neodymium Disc Countersunk Hole Magnets, MIKEDE 1.26 inch D x 0.2 inch H Strong Permanent Rare Earth Magnets with 12 Screws I have had great luck with these. Large but not huge. Strong but not crazy strong.

@@stephenspencer3883 Ok thank you. So you have a shore power receptacle on the outside or your feeding a cord into the trailer

@@stephenspencer3883 Ok thank you. I did see Ron Paulk do it that way. I have been a contractor for 20 years and I have a couple of vans but I’m looking to get a trailer and just like so many others I’m trying to soak up as muck information as possible.

Thanks for the reply Mark. I started at my compressor cubby and put in a double gang receptacle with a line out to the front of the trailer using MC which is visible throughout the trailer where you see the wiring. I ran the front going line into my double gang switch box with a non switched recep. That recep feeds one more double gang recep in my battery bank. The switch controls a single gang recep above my counter that my lights are plugged into. And that is the current extent of my wiring. I forward feed power through my 10/3 extension cord where I created a double male ended pigtail to plug into the cord and then into that compressor recep. I do not have a marine battery set up so unless I have shore power, I do not have power.

I run the 10/3 100ft cord out of a hole in the floor under the reel it is on and that plugs into shore power then I have a 6ft long double male ended pigtail that plugs into the female end of the 10/3 cord and then into one of the outlets in the compressor cubby. I don’t have an outlet on outside of my trailer. This way, my 10/3 100ft cord is always on a reel and ready to feed out of the hole in the floor to shore power and is easy to pull out to the house recep and is just as easy to reel back in when the trailer leaves or I can just shut the doors and lock up and the cord can stay plugged in for battery charging. I also have the convenience of not having to wrestle a cord manually to get my trailer plugged in if I only had an exterior outlet that brought power into the trailer. There is no wrong way though, only the way that works for each contractor!

Exactly what I have done! I have been in construction since 1989 when I started as a laborer. Full time each summer, part time the rest of the year. So happy to have an outfitted trailer to make sure I don’t forget any tools when I show up on a job. So far, it continues to deliver!

Thanks for checking out the video and for the question A48! I appreciate it. My bottom left drawer is around 72" long and is as long as the two drawer banks together that are on top of it. Those two cabinets drove the size of this long drawer. It also left room for the compressor that lives behind it at the front of the trailer with the 1/3rd height 2-drawer bank above it (again, leaving room for the compressor). Best of luck with your build out and if you video it, please let me know if it gets posted. I am fond of trailer videos! This video of mine is certainly pretty rough from a couple years ago but I had a good time with it. I also have a section-by-section deep dive that is newer if you are interested. Here is the link to the playlist: kzfaq.info/sun/PLIG9oMcYNIl_tbHTwk8lxiHLWcue0CrrC (this has targeted, shorter videos, one for each "section" of the trailer).

Silicook Clear Plastic Jar, Set of 3-30oz, Square Shaped, Transparent, Food Storage Container, Kitchen & Household Organization for Dry goods, Spices, (from amazon)

I never thought of it like that but you are very correct. The time saved by not involving extension cords is a real thing! I just dry walled an addition and used the dewalt cordless drywall gun for the first time and I cannot overstate how amazing it was to not have to drag a cord around, have it get tangled up, or come unplugged. It paid for itself in convenience and hassle free installation. Thanks for the comment! ......(just noticed who you were!) So..... by the way, love your channel and have watched a bunch of your videos. Thanks for trailer material and thanks for the business and building discussions. I hope you have continued success in your business. Dump trailer-cool purchase. And cordless too! See. It pays for itself not to roll out the 25mile long cord like the older models. Stay safe. Keep the content coming!

@@sdsconstruction thanks! Cool seeing others take pride and realize the benefits of being organized on the jobsite

Thanks for the question! The guy from Massachusetts on his Renovations and Repairs channel has a real nice multiple deep-cycle marine battery set up with a charging system so he has power no matter where and when and he simply plugs his trailer into "shore power" (aka the house recep) and charges his system. Sadly, I do not have the space for this type of system so for me, it is just "shore power" but whenever possible, I have my 10/3 extension cord run out of the hole in the floor of the trailer and plugged into the house or the jobsite and with that, I am charging batteries and have lights and all of my receps in the trailer are hot and allow me to set up around the trailer and have power for saws and sanders and the compressor etc.

Thanks for commenting! It is a 3500lb single axle and pulls just fine. Loaded wt is just under 3000lb. I have taken it from NY to Georgia with no issues. I would rather have the double axle 7x12 though if I had the chance to change out. Best of luck with your trailer!

Hi again Steve. Just an update. I recently swapped out my axle for a 5000lb axle with stiffer suspension. Very very happy I did it because I was at max weight and I could feel the bounce in the trailer as I drove on less than perfect roads. It rides much better now and I am confident when I need to put things in the isle on my way to a jobsite (such as the workbench, tile tools, materials, etc) that I am not overweight and taxing the trailer. Again, thanks for the initial question and I agree with your choice of a dual axle trailer. If I could, I would!

​@@sdsconstruction just a forward thinking question for myself, where did you source the axle?

@@hunterwright1796 Hi Hunter! Thanks for the question. I went back to my trailer dealer where I bought the trailer in 2019. I figured that they, more than anyone, should know the trailer ratings and could source the correct axle for the trailer so I did not bother to shop around (Even though I know some great mechanics that could do the swap and the welding necessary but might not know if the trailer could actually support additional weight on the new axle.)

yep. 2800lbs loaded up as you have seen in the videos. It has a 3500 max and 3000 recommended.

2800lbs with cabinets and tools

Howdy AP, thanks for commenting! The generic batteries are doing very well under full time summer construction and long term conditions. (I am a teacher who “constructions” full time during summers). Currently I am about 50-50 with DeWalt 20V batteries and Waitley aftermarket 20V batteries for DeWalt. I have zero complaints about the aftermarket batteries. Some I have had on tools for over 2 years now. I have not replaced one yet. I have not tried a 60V aftermarket but plan to. Check out …. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/i7SUZNydp97ciIk.html for a video about my aftermarket batteries.

Thanks for commenting! Trailer is running just over 2700lbs with build out and tools as read by the local transfer station scales. It gives me some leeway to pack the bench or other occasional/job specific tools when necessary and not worry about being over. Stay safe.

@@sdsconstruction do you think useing thinner material mite be less weight on the trailer? Im currently building my 6x12 tandem axle and trying to lighten the build up a bit since I pull it with my JL rubicon.

I do not know about everyone else but about 4 yrs ago, deep dives were a great past time and this very early video was my contribution. I will confess that I will likely update it (and make it wayyyy shorter) sometime in the future. As for me, I watch them to see what everyone else is using and to see what I might be missing. Once in a while I get good ideas about tools from videos that I have not run into yet and it does confirm that all of us smith's are indeed still neck and neck with the joneses. Lastly, I enjoy seeing how others organize their tools whether in workshop tours or mobile build outs. But.....that is just me. Very much appreciate your comments! Thanks a bunch for the good question.

Will do. I was going to use the wax from a new toilet wax ring. Any suggestions?

@@sdsconstruction Paste wax. Citrus Shield or whatever. Just a tiny wipe in the dados will make those drawers glide easy.

Paste wax! Nice

Thanks for checking the video out. I owe the ideas to Ron and others out there with great trailer, truck, and van buildouts that get an "A" for organization. I just followed their lead and stole the idea.

Thanks for the comment/tip!

You are correct and I agree. It is very true that if someone is motivated enough and has enough time, they will likely steal anything not nailed down and much that is. Like in the military, the hard target is selected less often to be tangled with ..... so when we pulled combat patrol or pulled into a temporary AO, we had barrels pointed in all directions to create the “hard target” and much of the time, we had little issue. Most insurgents were looking for soft, easier, less risky targets and targets of opportunity. With tools or trailers or just a bike on the porch, the more impediments and hurdles (tongue locks, padlocks, chains, GPS trackers, etc) put in the way of an easy grab, the less likely a grab will occur. Not that it can’t, just less likely that it will. In fact, I have lost one trailer with fewer protections and had a fellow contractor lose tools on a “secure” job site. I am thinking some hidden C4 and a remote detonator......if it turns up missing, key the detonator and then look for the cloud of smoke and follow the fire truck to the missing stuff???