I can't seem to find a video on this regarding the meter. I have a 2007 Chevy Avalanche 5.3 and my spare battery tray is swapped from his setup. My spare battery tray is on the driver's side and the primary on passenger side.

@@AmitroniXthe mechman alternator comes with a harness to trick that sensor and comes with better amps, 2 birds 1 stone

So the factory wiring has an isolator? (I'm trying to understand)

@@Theopheus same haha

No there’s no on board isolator on the ppv. There’s only a battery tray there already. I have a 2012 ppv with two optima yellow tops, isolator wired into the ignition fuse so the second battery links when the key is turned. It was for 4,000watt sound system but has saved me when the wife leaves the lights on and kills the first battery.

For me I was just gonna put a small inverter so incase of emergency’s I can charge my drill batteries

I run 2k accessory power in a v6 with stock alt and a yellow top so the big 4 is a major upgrade

What is big 4?

@@VoltageAces following.

@@VoltageAces bigger alternator, battery cables, better battery and something else. I’m guessing a capacitor. We used to always say the big 3 upgrade, but I guess they added capacitor.

I just did dual batteries and 320 amp alternator and ran 4 gage to my amp that pulls 100amp by itself and that worked just fine.

How’s it running I’m bout to buy a 4,000 one

@@Ericlmarwalker1 It wasn't when I got it. '01 LT 4x4, 5.3L / 4L60E with 226k. Main issues were grounds, crank position sensor and EGR valve. Now it runs smooth and still feels pretty strong. It sometimes shifts hard into 2nd, less now that the fluid is topped off. Besides most of the ground on the frame being corroded off and some rot in the rockers, it's is pretty good shape considering a hard life in rural South Dakota. I'm happy with it and it will share driving and towing duties with my '15 Sierra. I have lots of little things to do still so I'm enjoying Matt's series on his. Hope it's a good one for you if you end up with it.

My 2006 tahoe thar used to be a Michigan state trooper vehicle has 2 battery's in it

The 2015+ models have the default battery in the passenger side and it is grounded to the frame behind the wheel liner. The auxiliary battery location for 2015-2020 models is the driver side area. Exactly the opposite.

@@Guillotines_For_Globalists my 07 tahoe factory is on the pass side then my secondary tray is on the drivers lol idk what’s up with this Tahoe I got I swear it was experimental

@@Arker57 I think they should have put the factory battery on the driver left as they did in your Tahoe, as that would make replacement a whole heck of a lot easier. However some bean counter likely figured out they'd be using more wire to do so. Also maybe something about "unsprung" weight as it's forward of the front suspension. Who knows?

@@Arker57I think this is normal for 07-14 gm suvs and trucks, my 07 Escalade also has the battery in the passenger side but has a spot to put a battery on the driver side

Have the part number for the OEM isolator?

@Travis Hamler it's only about 1500w total. But I run multiple 100w 2 way radios, emergency lights and other items confidently with the truck off and not worry about draining batteries and them not starting.

@@2009KVFD976 I came to ask him to put an isolator in and do a video. I’m wanting to do one that will run an inverter. Do you have a video of the install?

@@leeroy7057 no sir. I do not. It's not hard to do at all. I wish I did a video of it when I put it in.

Your cranking battery should ALWAYS run everything that is high current draw. Such as lights (exterior) big amps/subs. Because the second battery should be a deep cycle to run all of the low draw items

Good idea, I’ll have to look into that.

@@lsXmatt how’s the new battery mod doin!!!

Will the existing alternator handle both batteries for charging without any problems?

@@conradnerdahl127 it should but if not then you can upgrade to an Escalade alternator from 03-06 years if you have a 03-06 truck or Tahoe or suburban

The best thing to do is the big 3 upgrade. Don't take off the stock stuff just add to it both my battery connections are 9/16 bolts now, 0/4 gauge wire from alternator+ to power block, 0/4 from alternator case "top bolt on alt to ground firewall and ground firewall to -battery.

@@sogood4u489 what is the benefit of this mod for a stock vehicle? Is it just redundancy or are the lights brighter and stereo louder ?

@@johnnymissfire8464 The gauges stay brighter with headlights on, pressing the window button doesn't slow the blower motor and overall the voltage sits higher. But yes it is most beneficial if you add lights a wench or aftermarket stereo.

Correct and in addition to that when the pedal is pushed to the floor the electronic fuel pump ignition system as a whole and other aspects of the drivetrain are depending on enough voltage available to maintain full capacity or to even get up to 100% in the first place pictures of fuel pump dropping from say 13.2 V to 11.8v . It will definitely have a lesser output. In addition your transmission is 110 electronic and Depends solely on voltage to make a quick shift. Lower bolted can cause a laggy shift even if just by a sort fraction of a second can cause slippage. Minor slippage will become more noticeable slippage and then your clutches become worn in the transmission and drastically worse as time goes on. Even if the vehicle is running the alternator can only put so much a back into the battery wow that seem a maybe forced out of the battery faster than it could be energized. For this reason the immediately available amount of proper voltage is incredibly important this is why two batteries is a must for people like myself who run winches performance audio accessory lighting communicational equipment and often charge batteries for tools and inverter simultaneous to the regular vehicle operations in which the factory vehicle alternator and battery system is hardly up to par for the first place it is already at Max. Some vehicles may have a higher amperage alternator from the factory sometimes it's like a special RPO code or any electric seat warmers sunroof may have equivalent to a larger Factory alternator which is all the more reason more to use a second battery I definitely recommend using a isolator I use a better doctor 100-amp and I put all the accessories including the radio and other accessories that I take off of the main circuits of the truck basically run everything that you had to the truck that you possibly can use without it running to the second battery now put the stereo on the second battery to you don't have to put the key and use the store anymore you can flip the switch and have the truck off. Also you can start the truck without it interrupting the stereo and like in the video Even when your main battery takes a shit because you left the wire Toulouse to the ground or to the positive and it wasn't getting charged your truck will have only been running properly because of the extra battery and as well as your second battery will not be used to jump the first battery by pushing the manual button on the smart isolator which will connect the two batteries. Generally the two batteries are only connected by the isolator reaches 13 point 6 which is a full charge with running vehicle it at that point will connect the two together and charge the auxiliary battery as well

Big 3

If you have the funds for a yellow top, just go for a xspower battery.

What is this trick

But did you change the voltage regulator ?

Both batteries are grounded to the chassis. So they are both charging off the alternator.

Sorry for the typo I can spell...I use to get burned in the coments for my typo and the periods are just out of habit

That would only protect the alternator, not the rest of the vehicle. There is a smaller gauge wire from the main battery cable to the fuse block, so I guess that would act as a fuse, protecting the rest of the truck wiring.