It does sound like fuel starvation, and when cold, it's even more obvious, see if you can get it mapped properly and take it from there... Good luck mate 👍👍

That's a real head scratcher, I'm sure someone will be along with some help who's had a similar issue. Fingers crossed you get it all sorted 🤞

You do get your self in some situations,just keep going,you will figure it out.just keep doing what your doing and you will prevail 😎😎😎👍👍👍

You may have a fuel metering issue ,with a lack of proper delivery of air to fuel. A MAP sensor can cause that too,reading more air flow than fuel. I just saw the end of your video, I would also suggest removing the valve cover and inspecting the cam. When these motors came out they were known for eating that intake cam . Also check the backs of the connector at the map sensor the wires may be damaged ,do a vacuum leak check. You say runs good cold it's running rich when cold, possible clues to what could be the issue....(former tech in the US market).

I’m by no means an expert on these cars, I don’t know anything about them but there are some observations that I have. Didn’t it hydrolock when the injectors stuck wide open? Has it run correctly since then? Hydolocking will put an unbelievable amount of stress on the timing components, the weakest points being tensioners, chain and cams. I’d be looking at the drive to the high pressure pump as you have eliminated the supply of fuel to the pump, the pump itself, the map that controls the pump and your data logging is showing you that the pump is not achieving the pressure that is being requested. At this point, it doesn’t matter if the values are correct or not for the mods that you have and sitting at idle/Reving whilst stationary would never require fueling that exceeds the fuel supply that you have available. You can see the values are not being reached on any of the maps. The metallic sound is coming from the area where the cam drives the fuel pump and it definitely sounds rotational rather than an up/down motion. As for it running worse when cold… metal expands when it’s hot so if it were something internal, tolerances reduce as it warms up. Again I don’t know anything about these cars but, could the end of the cam have snapped/cracked off and friction is driving the now detached piece (which drives the pump) like a clutch slipping? That could explain the noise and also why it’s better when hot as the friction would increase as the crack closes up. I wouldn’t run it any more until you have confirmed that the cam/pump drive isn’t damaged and the your timing is correct. Maybe cut your oil filter open and have a look for marek flakes as a starting point.

I assume you’ve checked the Camshaft lobe that runs the HPFP and the cam follower for damage? Sounds like you have a Camshaft problem. The exhaust cam lobes on this engine have 2 profiles per cylinder that are selected depending on engine RPM. The lobes are held in place by a ball bearing which if it becomes loose/flies off for any reason will cause rough idling and metallic clucking. Best do a top end strip down to confirm any mechanical malfunction. Doesn’t seem like a software issue to me.

Have you checked the high pressure cam follower. There’s 2 version a top hat style and one with a roller bearing depending on age. If that’s worn out the cam shaft won’t give a full stroke to the pump !

firstly try checking the dip stick for vacuum to rule the common PCV issues - the noise may be air whistling, failing that, check the low pressure fuel delivery side from the tank with a gauge during the poor running - it is normally approx 60psi steady. If you find this pressure dropping the metallic noise you are hearing from the HPFP pump may be caused by cavitation or air bubbles with in the HPFP itself due to fuel starvation, especially as you've fitted higher flow injectors. It's also worth checking the 5v reference, ground and signal wires from the HP fuel sensor - I have had instances in the past where an elevated ground reference or bad 5v from the ECU have caused all kinds of issues with no codes. I really hope you sort the problem out .......

Running a bigger turbo on a standard map is always a bad idea. It definitely needs the HPFP installed and a map to take advantage of it. The sound you have sounds like the aftermarket internals are no good.

Hope you get it sorted 👍

Sounds like it’s running very lean to me. It needs a custom map over a generic map doing on a dyno. Fuel starvation can blow your engine

I would start back at the rear pump, you say it’s good but it may have sucked in some crap. Change the filter as well. When Copart lift them with the forklift check there’s no damage. That pump sounds dry as in its trying to pull the fuel through. The map will play up on boost under load if it’s wrong, small the exhaust, it may be to rich now. Also you can check the plugs colour. Very annoying fault, good luck 🤞

Look at your fuel trim values, long and short term this might indicate an air / fuel issue, have you validated the fuel pump pressure using a gauge rather than relying on sensors?

great content m8 enjoyed it,i love all your stuff ,take care pal

I would take a look at the exhaust camshaft solenoïds (metallic noise when cold). Like mentioned I also believe they change the valvelift from low to high at 3000 rpm. Maybe their is one stuck or it can't be actuated when the engine is cold. Check the connectors of the solenoïds, I believe they are pure electric actuators. Cheers

Hi Dean, you need to log groups 031, 032 and 115. That's lambda requested vs actual, and boost requested vs actual. There is a danger you could blow up the engine if it's running lean though. There is a 'fuel enrichment factor' on the map for when the engine is cold, I suspect all your problems (apart from that noise) could be map related. I would take it to Bill at badger 5 in Gloucester, get him to map it properly.

This is good content mate, not up to the okey cokey standards of the RS4 but it’s good to watch.

I would take it to a local to be remapped as it certainly looks like a fuel starvation issue. I had a similar issue where when a car I had came on boost it just stopped revving past a certain RPM, and it turned out to be a blocked fuel filter, but I guess anything with fuelling issues can have multiple routes to check over.

Thanks for the update, are the oil feeds ok, I’m no expert but metallic sounds are low oil doing its stuff 🤔

Check the MAP sensor, also remove cover and do an inspection.

That noise sounds like a gear/chain noise. Deffo a mechanical drive noise. The tune you have could have safety cuts disabled so not firing warning codes. As its got a map sensor the car will know how much pressure is in the manifold and then how much fuel to add to match. If in closed loop IE not full pedal then the car will use the O2 sensor to measure the exhaust gas mix and adjust fuel accordingly via the fuel trims. The car can only add so much fuel before it will error. Should normally get a DTC pop up. If your tune has errors disabled like most plug and play ones then you may not see it. Cant you run live data and watch the o2 / fuel trims and see what they are doing. If they are spiking or not updating could be an issue.

the hybrid turbo needs to be mapped in, running a hybrid or even an is38 on a stock gti map is going to cause issues, for one it will overboost and secondly it could well be that it is running lean, your ecu will adjust its afr accordingly but it can only do that so much. realistically you want it on a dyno, where everything can be logged, a good mapper should be able to point out the issue pretty easily, i recommend you take it to r-tech in nuneaton, niki gower is a wizard. fuelling issues will usually store fault codes too.

The sock filter on the low pressure pump in the tank are know to block up or perish on higher mileage cars. Especially if ran on poor fuel all its life. Mite be worth checking the lpfp

How about monitoring the oxygen sensors? if the fuel mix is being messed about, you should see some change in the data from the sensor upstream of the catalytic converter. Also, try what used to be called a plug shop. Run the engine for a while at 3000rpm then look at the plug insulator color. At a push, you might be able to get an old Colourtune plug in there to look at the fuel mix. Sometimes, old school solutions are better.

There’s a guy on the GTi forums, his name is Morné. He is now living in Canada now , was in South Africa , he is helpful and a wizard I tell ya! Maybe try track him down ? I think it’s a faulty catalytic converter - lamba and o2 sensors sending their infos the ecu, a rusty terninal/s on the main fuse box , relays can also cause issues, also check your cam profiles and check to see if you have the correct camshafts in your head or a lifted valve seat. The cat tans 02 sensors determine the Ecus fueling maps, maybe you have a hole or crack in the intake manifold ?

check your fuel trims, that will tell you if you're too rich or lean. Also check the cam and the follower driving the fuel pump, wouldn't be the first time one or both are worn. Also, a bigger turbo does need a different tune as you are pushing more volume of air.

Check the condition of the turbo ....that sounds a bit like blade scrub 🤔 just take inlet pipe off and check with mirror. Then after that take it to a rolling road and have them run it up and see where the fueling is. That way you can get an idea of what it needs and when .

Check if the vacuumpump notch under the hpfp has play or any wear in the camshaft. There is a notch that slides in the camshaft

The electric low pressure fuel pump in the GTI is different than the golf R u should check ur fuel volume and also check ur fuel pump controll unit next to the low pressure fuel pump for signs of electric burns that could give u all kinds of headache and make sure ur rear main seal is not leaking vacum,

By the way if you running stock map and golf r injectors you can’t be running lean, it should be running on the rich side. In theory your injection times are longer than golf r (because smaller injectors require longer injection times and bigger injectors require shorter injection times) so bigger injectors will inject more fuel on stock gti injection maps..

Mate, take it to a local dyno/mapper. If you’re not sure get a professional to check it with proper equipment. If they can map it to run then you’ll know for sure. If they can’t custom map it to run then there’s something else wrong

Are there any fault codes? On the standard map, have you put back the stock port injectors, MAP sensor etc? The standard map switches the exhaust cam from low lift to high lift at 3000rpm so will change air flow.

So firstly did the work run properly before you started doing the engine mods? If it didn't then you need to put it back to standard and fix the underlying problem when standard. Now without knowing if the ECU controls the boost pressure or if it just using the wastegate spring makes a difference to if the turbo is affecting the engine. This is cos with electronic boost control the ECU would limit the boost regardless of the size of turbo but if it's just using the wastegate spring pressure then that can definitely cause it to lean out. In VAGCOM does it have the ability to read the AFR? If it can and you can log this it'll tell you pretty quickly if/when the engine leans out. 14.7 is for the perfect combustion but to run safe under load below 13.5 and tending towards 12.7 at full revs when driving. If it goes into the 15's or higher then that's bad and can quickly damage the engine. I'd be tempted to put good known standard injectors in just because after trying so many pumps it could easily be the fuel pump or injectors causing the low pressure. Many modern cars use a fuel pump controller that increases voltage and current as the revs rise to increase delivery pressure and flow and obviously if the high pressure pump isn't getting enough fuel then it can't create the required pressure. The opposite of this is if the injectors are opening too much or maybe they're even the wrong size then they'll bleed pressure off. It could also be the MPI regulator is faulty and bleeding too much away from the HP pump. That metallic sound did sound like the HP pump so hopefully that brand new pump isn't stuffed. also check that the lobe on the camshaft hasn't wiped out as that will cause problem with the HP pump making enough pressure.

In terms of turbo size and mapping then yes will have a massive impact ,even just an air filter change can need the fuel trims adjusting to suit in the map It needs mapping as will hit either boost cut or fuel cut with the bigger turbo

God that could be a number of terrifyingly expensive things - love internal metallic noises - they make my wallet cry! :D But gut and a bit of research says cam phaser / Adjuster magnet. . I don't think its anything to do with your set up as such. I think that with any modified car you find the weak spots when you take it beyond the tolerances of what its built for. The Cam Adjuster works with the VVT - simple test - unplug it and rev, if the rattle goes away its that? often the magnet can fail and the cam can't adjust. The rattle comes from the adjuster itself, so saw you'd check the lobe etc - explains why no damage. Try unplugging that and seeing if it makes a difference?

Does the map have launch control? Does it do it while driving? If it does it while driving then it’s that the engine isn’t either getting enough fuel, air or spark because of the turbo. Spark could be timing.

Ten minutes work is all it will take to check the tappet for the high pressure fuel pump. It sounds like the right area and would effect the supply.

Cam chains are hanging out of that, i reckon the problem is the top end timing you should check, if a chain guide is cooked and it’s jumped a tooth or 3 the inlet exhaust timing is all out hence it stumbling all over the place under load

You can test the air fuel by wrapping a damp rag over the intake and then revving it. Restricts the air + richens the mix. What's odd is you said it runs Worse when cold. The ECU makes the mix richer when its cold. So it should run better.

Bet your wishing you left it standard Dean 😬, hope you manage to sort it out quickly and cheaply!

That noise sounds like a vacuum leak, and that would also make it run rough.

At least your going through the possible scenarios

When your not under load your not making boost. The turbo size shouldn't matter it will be regulated by the map to make a set pressure. If your map asks for full boost at 5 psi or 30psi it will only deliver what it is regulated to. My tfsi has a ko3 hybrid on a stage one map and runs 20 psi and had that on the standard turbo and killed it after 18months. Is the lifter for the high pressure fuel pump new and fitted correctly as it sounds like it's not in-between the plunger and the cam.

Hello mate - from the crash could anything be cracked and leaking air? (thinking about that noise and the fact its worse on cold start) When the car warms up the crack is reducing and the loss of air is reduced? Just a random thought. Hope you get it sorted bud.

Yes if you want to avoid buying more and more parts then id get it to a mapper..itll just suck money off you at this rate mate. Sounds nice though revving to the 3000.

Certainly sounds more like fuel starvation more than anything, although if you look on some forums they usually point towards coil packs and plugs being the issue but seeing you have replaced most of that then fuel issue is more likely? The reason i say fuel starvation is the fact that everything you have done with the car is front end be it adding new turbo air intake high pressure fuel pump etc, when what you might need to do is simply run from the source of the fuel pick up and work forward instead, as in remove the fuel pick up sender unit from the tank and check for any crap blocking the pick up filter, especially as with this fuel crises a lot of garages ran out of fuel and you get all that sediment and water being stirred around when they fill up again? Obviously next in sequence is the in line filter under the body to see if it is clogged and more importantly the right one for that car as there does seem to be quite a few variations on the filter depending on bar pressure with standard running at 2 bar and high pressure with return line back to tank running at 5 bar pressure? Sometimes with issues like these it pays to think old school back to the old ways of thinking mechanically then work your way from there hope this helps...

If there is a return line to the tank it may be worth checking that too.

It’s sounds like a washer/retaining ring of sorts or something that’s made up of maybe a spring,washer,location pin,circlip ect ect inside an enclosure because it sounds like multiple things vibrating against each other as opposed to being something of an individual nature

Might be worth getting an independent wideband lambda gauge on it to check air fuel mix, were the bigger injectors new?

Could it be injector Sticking. open giving low pressure and closed giving too high? Probably a Long shot, not sure stuck injector would give night pressure and afr’s would be off?

Check colour of spark plugs will tell you a lot on how the cars mixture is....I think the timing chain is defo noisy too

There is I think a replaceable cam follower for the pump, prone to wear, and a new strong sprung pump will accelerate the problem would go there first, or chain tensioners worst case

You won't be building much boost without it being under load maybe a few psi tops... a standard turbo and car will under load will produce alot more when it's under load so the fuel pump obviously is capable of supplying a bigger turbo at idle the size of the turbo has nothing to do with that issue

Good luck 🙏🙏

Fuel pressure issue can be due to faulty pressure sensor which is mounted on fuel rail. We had this issue where cars would run like bag of nails and give misfires etc.. Replaced high pressure fuel rail sensor and all issues gone.. Let me know how you get on.

That noise Dean sounds like the pump follower. If that is worn (or the lobes ) you will loose pump stroke. ECU will increase duty on metering valve, erratic under/over pressure may result due to uneven mechanical surfaces. This also could explains the effects of hot and cold. Re the turbo, bigger air volume needs more fuel to maintain AFR. The engine performance issue sounds like lack of fuel. I'd be looking at O2 readings too to confirm.

Thinking outside the box here, that metallic noise at the end... This indicates excessive clearances somewhere.....but...it's intermittent when revved. 🤔. The logged fuel pressures are all over the place.🤔. Is it possible there is a negative pressure ( vacuum ) in the fuel pump holding off the follower? How can this be possible? Surely the fuel system is sufficient to keep the fuel rail and injectors all primed? If not, possible air or vaccum getting back into the fuel system? Ridiculous I know, but are all the injectors sequencing properly? I told you I think outside the box, probably way off the mark... Good luck with finding this small but annoying problem. 👍

I would be looking very hard at the camshaft and follower for this, especially before you try to run it again, ,it sounds like there is pre detonation going on which could be the reason it is trying to compensate for under fueling. Camshaft and poor map?

Could there be some debris in the fuel line? (Acting like a valve at high flow rates)

This sounds too complicated to be done by DIY, sorry Dean. But back when you had a carburettor it was called hunting when the mixture was to rich when it was cold, then to lean when it got hot. Those days are gone sadly, hope you get it fixed soon.

I had somewhat similar issue in my 2.0 CDND, no check engine light but it ran like crap, turned out to be this vacuum oil separator thingy (I'm not English, don't know the correct term), somehow something split inside and it was whistling a bit, computer didn't know what's happening. All those sensors and computers and a single plastic piece can confuse all of them with no codes, what world are we living in! ;) Of course you've modified a lot of stuff so it's probably not something stupid like that, but I just wanted to whine a bit ;)

Start stop problem is for me timing belt /chain problem maybe is that , check synchro , in tdi is low on power and consumption is really high is worth to check????

from what i know the bigger injectors and turbo needs to be mapped in so if i was you i would start from there and see if you can get it sorted

The problem you are seeing is off boost (use VCDS to graph actual boost to verify). Warm the engine and then check the lambda reading using VCDS at idle, 2000rpm and 3500rpm. You'll need to hold the revs steady for a few seconds as the reading will fluctuate with throttle position change even on a 'good' set up. This will tell you if it's running lean or rich. It's possible one or more of the injectors are faulty. This would account for odd high pressure readings after trying 3 pumps!

Hey! Could it be fuel pumps relay/control unit? That part is located on top of fuel pump in the back seat. Small part but still could be the problem by not working properly.

Sounds like chain tensioner is it hydrolic I had a mini that sounded like that low oil pressure or failed tensioner ?

Can I ask you a question I have a 07 freelander2 2.2 turbo I had a haldex service and the rear diff topped up but what I thought would cure the winning noise when I accelerate it didn't cure it what else could be the cause mate cheers

If it's anything like audi the tank pump has a controller and is operated through pwm? Rather than off or on just food for thaught.

air to fuel ratio on the ea888 gen 3 when mapped should be around 12.4 to 12.7 over 1 when wot.

Oh you could always reach out to Deutsche Auto Parts with a clip of your engine noise. I’m sure they’d like to do a cross-pond collab 👌

Have you looked at the timing mate could be cam adjusters

Is your fuel injectors you need to replace all 4 happened to me couple of months back

Vacuum leak? Have you smoke tested the intake?

The noise could be an unbalanced turbo. Needs to be on the rolling road and you might see something crop up there.

Give R Tech performance a call they will be able to help no doubt

this sounds like cam lobe wear for the HPFP common on golf R s3's ect im sure you can buy a lobe its self.

I'd at least get some live data of more pids. Expected fuel actual . Injector deviation if it uses it on petrol vs tdi. Boost expected and actual . Dunno about mods on this car but guessing the the mods are tried and tested stock with details on forums .

What about low pressure fuel pump? Is the ticking noise not injector related?

I'm sure you will sort it 👍 hello mate

did you check the camshaft follower? it could be worn!

Might be a long shot but that noise could possibly be detonation where it’s running lean

Does it has a pcv fault it's sounds a bit squeaky good luck

Noise could be coming from the vacuum pump. It's right under the HPFP. Just a guess...

Okay so you’re gonna run into a lot of issues being that you got a big turbo running on a standard map and the car cannot compensate quick enough to make the fuel adjustments basically you’re running lean because you’re running a bigger air pump basically what I would do is go back to your modified set up unless you’re going to take that Turbo Off and go from there , So a couple of things to try one take the fuel pump off and squirt some oil over the Camloob and the spring of the pump , and see if the noise quietens down , the other thing to do is push air down the fuel line so the fuel goes all the way back into the tank just in case you’ve got something in that line that is making a blockage if you start the car after priming and all of a sudden she starts running good chances are your fuel filter may be knackered or the fuel pump in your tank has got a blockage they’re, only do one of these at a time so this way you can definitely know what the problem is if it starts to run properly , try this and see how you get on

Can you reset the learned values for the HP fuel pump?

I said ages ago, Timing chain, i still think it is, that car has always been loud since you got it. This fuel pump thing now is a mess though. Ive seen a cracked sensor a few times on an s3 and the likes. But you have already replaced, so it cant be.

A cautionary tale - “If it ain’t broke don’t fix it” - Keep it ‘standard’!😂

Could the lobe on the cam that the cam follower sits on be slipping sounds like that metal on metal to me .

It might be ruined but my god does it look beautiful 🤷‍♂️

Fuel pump cavitation when the load increased

Had a similar issue on a tt it was the fuel filter.

Could the Low Pressure Fuel Pump in the tank be struggling to keep up with the extra demand?

I feel for you, but havnt got a scobby do

I had a really crappy running idol in my golf R 2018 with only 25000 kms..... i had to solve it on my own dealership couldnt figure it out i had them replace pcv valve replaced whole unit its ontop of your engine vaccume pressure control area

Get it to a rolling road the lad at vrs that calvin car diary’s uses seems to know his stuff.

Air intake, chipped, exhaust updates. Resulted in burnt out turbo and blown out cylinders for me.

How about the coil packs hv u upgraded them

Log lambda request vs actual too, but that noise is alarming. Get it over to someone who specialises in vag tuning mate

What about the camshaft position sensor?

Think the flux capacitor is us . Seriously sounds like it over fueling when cold