Trying to FIX: FAULTY G9 LED Lamps

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Trying to FIX: FAULTY G9 LED Lamps

Рет қаралды 39,993

Күн бұрын

Hi, this video shows me attempting to repair blown 240V LED lamps.
DO NOT COPY WHAT YOU SEE IN THIS VIDEO.
Remember that this is just for entertainment and I am not an expert in these repairs. The processes in the video may not be the best way, the correct way or the safest way to fix these things.
I do love fault finding and trying to fix broken things so I hope that comes across in this 'Trying to FIX' series.
Many thanks, Vince.

Пікірлер: 225

@jochenwuerfel 4 жыл бұрын

Before the eBay repair challenge I was only interested in retro gaming repairs and stuff, but now I'm here.. cheering on a LED bulb lol

@AlexKiraly 4 жыл бұрын

Have you been here for the fridge and dishwasher repairs? Gotta check those out, the fridge one helped me fix mine

@jochenwuerfel 4 жыл бұрын

@@AlexKiraly The fridge was bonkers.. never knew there is so much going on in there. Didn't saw the dishwasher one.. yet ;)

@unimportant5122 4 жыл бұрын

You're hurting the poor LED's testing them like that. LED's are current controlled devices, not voltage controlled. Like any diode they need a minimum voltage before they start conducting (called "forward voltage" or Vf) , but as soon as you reach that minimum voltage and they start conducting there will be no limit to the amount of current they conduct, damaging the device. Set your bench power supply to constant current mode rather then constant voltage to test LED's. If your supply does not support constant current mode then set it to 12V and put a 470 ohm resistor in series. That should be safe for a wide range of LED's. The reason your multimeter in diode mode does not work on these LED's is because they have a rather high Vf - around 8V as you've demonstrated - and most multimeters put out a maximum of around 3V in diode test mode. They overdrive these LED's, which is what causes them to fail prematurely. The best solution is to modify them when they're new to lower the drive current by about 20%. That extends their life immensely without sacrificing too much in brightness. How to do this exactly depends on the drive circuitry - there's many different versions out there.

@kirkb4989 4 жыл бұрын

These are likely 3 chips per led at 3v each so they are 9v (typ) so running them at 8v will be fine. The clue is that none of the leds would light at lower voltage...

@vilhelmboor8542 4 жыл бұрын

That's an interesting concept, pitty it does not conform to ohms law or every xmas light string on the market. Your idea would work better by adding another diode. I can agree that the thing will last longer with a 47ohm in the string. The diode works due to current flow yes, but it lights because of the voltage drop over it. I=V/ R That this thing has much more than a diode and a capacitor in the drive cct, would surprise me, this is the Mr Woo lamp.

@Tokaisho1 4 жыл бұрын

Thank you for this advice

@Mommotexx 4 жыл бұрын

Great video Vince, I've fixed some of my led bulbs too, just shorten the pads together, it's less work, and almost wont affect anything. The other leds will get more current, but thats ok. Mine has worked for over 2 years now, so try this😁👍

@MyklBlue69 Жыл бұрын

Awesome! It's like those old Christmas tree lights. 1 bulb goes and they all go out!

@xerejuneseve6333 4 жыл бұрын

You are really save the world from unnecessary plastic man.

@MyklBlue69 Жыл бұрын

Well done for getting one off! 👏

@MonkeyBarGaming 4 жыл бұрын

Even though this is longer it is still a great fix

@anthonyg001ag 4 жыл бұрын

You could've used a blade to take off the leds. Definitely do a review on the microscope with screen. Keep up with the good videos Vince.

@daveweston5158 4 жыл бұрын

Should you decide to revisit this issue, I, for one, would be interested to explore the 'inner components' of the bulb(s) - The part in the middle covered by the heat shrink tubing. It's my understanding that LEDs typically will not 'burn out' like incandescent bulbs (unless overdriven), and often the 'failure' of an LED based bulb lies in the components of the bulb that convert, and step down the power (in your case, from 240V AC, to 8V (or thereabouts) DC.). Of course, the possibility exists that some of the (presumably cheaply, quickly, and questionably quality controlled) LEDs may be to blame, but taking a look at the components that drive the bulb would offer up a greater understanding overall.

@A_C_M Жыл бұрын

This videos .... feels like ME with my "knowledge" trying to fix stuff .... just having some special tools ..

@retrotech11 4 жыл бұрын

Very detailed and methodical approach to fixing something which most of us would consider a disposable item. I have the exact same microscope! Good cheap microscope which has a save to sd card function plus you can connect it to a large screen via your PC USB port. Very useful for micro soldering.

@MoseyingFan 4 жыл бұрын

G'day Vince! Worn wall switches often kills cheap LED lamps by stressing their miniature power supplies. You can often hear when a switch (or relay) is worn by the arcing sound that happens when you turn it on and it's that arcing that's killing the lamp. Something I learned watching BigClive doing some forensics on some dead lamps.

@mrbridger5 4 жыл бұрын

Vince, just a few random thoughts.... Each of those little led 'chips' look to have 3 leds inside them (which is why an led test won't work properly) and as you say they are in series. 30 chips x 3 LEDs equals 90, and based on a rough 3v per led is 270v! (DC) So there is no low voltage side. It's possible the driver circuit is overdriving the LEDs to get a bit more brightness (and sacrificing longevity) it's also probably why chips are failing (could also be too driving too much current if it's failing) If you swap out the LEDs I'd have no worries about using them. Could just have failed again due to overheating a bit with the hot air. May be easier to remove the PCB before removing leds from the donor as the metal can it's wrapped around will wick away heat meaning you need to heat it more.

@thomasesr 4 жыл бұрын

If all the LEDs are indeed in series. You could do a simple bridge rectifier and big Resistor circuit to replace the capacitor inside that is clearly faulty. There is probably a capacitive dropper inside or a current source chip of some sort.

@mrbridger5 4 жыл бұрын

@@thomasesr at a guess I'd say there will be a bridger rectifier in there anyway, and a smoothing capacitor.

@Fly0High 4 жыл бұрын

I've seen enough BigClive videos to see the black spot of death a mile away! Edit: next time try and apply the hot air from the bottom of the circuit board rather then the top so as not to burn the LED before the solder melts.

@TC-tn9tb 4 жыл бұрын

how would you get access to the bottom of the led?

@Fly0High 4 жыл бұрын

@@TC-tn9tb That "lamp" is actually a flexible sheet and you can clearly see the folds and the silicone at the seem of the cylinder. It should be just a matter of unfolding it.

@sarah1390 4 жыл бұрын

Yep. I've watched too many BigClive videos and I seen those black dots of death a mile away as well.

@TechnikZaba 4 жыл бұрын

My little advice is that before desoldering the LED, it is better to peel off the flexible PCB with diodes. Because the base is a metal part that takes away heat

@DarkRequiemFilms 4 жыл бұрын

Another great video Vince, that Microscope is a huge upgrade and unlocks many more possibilities.

@Biffo1262 4 жыл бұрын

You can repair a bulb by removing the dud LED and making a solder bridge. It has no detrimental effect. I've done this for the last couple of years with no problems at all.

@UnitedSpotlight 4 жыл бұрын

I thought this could of worked to when he was doing it

@pedromms8908 4 жыл бұрын

I've done that a few times as well and it works. The only issue is that you are increasing the current going throw each LED (in the loop where you removed the damaged LED). If your bulb has a few tens of LEDs there's not a big issue there, but if you do that in a 12LED bulb, for example, that may result in failure sooner. It's good to save you in an "emergency", but will not last long.

@WaltonPete 4 жыл бұрын

TBH I was cringing when you said you were going to use hot air as you usually have the temperature FAR too high. Even lead-free solder melts well below the 400°C roasting you gave those poor LEDs! To prevent melting everything else and burning the flux you should set the temperature NO HIGHER THAN 300°C and probably lower than that (try it lower first, say 250°C, then increase it by 10°C increments if that doesn't work.) Obviously your cheap soldering tweezers are not temperature controlled, which is why they completely obliterated the LEDs you tried to remove with them. Each of the LED chips has several actual LED components in one package (which are connected in series) with a fluorescent gel covering them. When one LED fails it will usually be due to overheating (especially if run at the current limit) which will cause that specific LED to become resistive and thus more prone to overheating, thus exacerbating the problem, eventually leading to the black burn spot in the gel coating. I wouldn't have any problem with using repaired lamps when done so carefully but I think your cheap lamps are probably over driving the LED's for maximum light output.

@clydedanger5932 4 жыл бұрын

but even leaded solder has a higher melting point than any plastic, especially this plastic. I don't know what exact plastic that is but it usually melts like ice cream in a dessert.

@WaltonPete 4 жыл бұрын

@@clydedanger5932 There are many plastics that have a higher melting point than that of solder. Nylon melts at just over 300"C which is well above the melting point of lead-free solder. Some plastics have a higher melting point than that of Nylon. Otherwise, how do you think manufacturers are able to solder plastic surface mount components?

@clydedanger5932 4 жыл бұрын

@@WaltonPete I always thought they put some sort of coating on the plastic but never actually thought about that. But this plastic in particular has a very low melting point. iirc its around 120°.

@WaltonPete 4 жыл бұрын

@@clydedanger5932 It's highly unlikely that the LED's have such a low melting point as it would be impossible to solder them in place during manufacture. I'm not suggesting that these specific components aren't poorly manufactured and extremely difficult to install without careful attention to temperature control but they were obviously soldered onto the PCB initially so must be able to cope with soldering temperatures without detriment.

@ferris7290 4 жыл бұрын

HI Vince, wrt soldering under your new microscope, I have a similar one without the screen (usb to PC). I just undid the screws from the stem to the baseplate and fixed it to a piece of plywood about 18" x 12", makes a good solid base for soldering. The supplied base was the same as yours and everything was rocking on it.

@kkanakis1957 4 жыл бұрын

So Vince, hello from the 'States, in Arkansas. Think about LED televisions. Some failures are the backlight strip, which are also LED's. Sweat the dead LED with heat like you are doing, heat the good LED back to the backlight strip. And enjoy your refurbished TV..... ( obviously the backlight is not always the issue, but when it is, you've got the fix!)

@MayaPosch 4 жыл бұрын

I really hate it how many manufacturers will put too much current through the LEDs in their lamps, simply to up the brightness. MTBF of LEDs when driven at 100% is acceptable, when overdriven (as the manufacturer of these bulbs appears to do), it cuts their lifespan down to something like 1% of rated. Limiting the LED current at or below rated forward voltage (Vf) would give the LEDs their rated or better lifespan of tens of thousands of hours. As for removing SMD LEDs like these, I use the tweezer iron with my Aoyue rework station. It has fine tips and allows me to grab both sides of the LED, melt the solder and allows me to pull them straight off with no damage or overheating.

@TheAlphaWoomy 4 жыл бұрын

Are these bulbs on dimmers? Because if the bulb is not designed for use with a dimmer it can shorten it's life, also maybe the fixture is defective and running hot.

@CLC-1000 4 жыл бұрын

Nice to see you fixing something new Vince. Great job.

@antonjansenvanrensburg4145 4 жыл бұрын

Hey Vince, hotair @250c low airspeed is what i use to remove LEDs on Car clusters. takes a while to get the solder to melt but the led does not melt.

@Pistol_Knight 4 жыл бұрын

A lesson in futility but riveting viewing all the same and a learning curve, when I get a bulb go I will send them on to you :) between us we will save the planet, I like a hobby that just intrigues with no actual 'end product' just for the love of learning

@incandescentwithrage 4 жыл бұрын

For removing or applying heat sensitive components to metal substrate boards (like this), pre-heating the board is a good plan. It prevents the board wicking the heat away from the solder pads while the plastic etc gets melted in the hot air stream

@kam_mil 4 жыл бұрын

I always watch your videos instead of going to sleep :D I'm 14 and I like to repair electronics too! Your videos are so fun to watch!

@oldbatwit5102 4 жыл бұрын

Bigclive did a vid on some LED light and he suggested fitting a different value.... something. He said the light may be slightly less bright but would last a lot longer. Sorry for being a bit vague but I'm sure someone reading this knows what I mean and could offer more useful information.

@philsey6913 4 жыл бұрын

See the reply that came in right after yours.

@bradleybergstrom5677 4 жыл бұрын

I am curious. What would happen if you just shorted the contacts for the dead led? For instance, if you didn't have the sacrificial bulb. Vince, would you be willing to test? Thanks!

@mdamaged 4 жыл бұрын

For what it's worth, if you wanted to fix the ones with the same fault, (as you realized in the video) just bridging the place where the faulty one is would do it, just keep in mind depending on the circuit design, doing it to too many on the same bulb would cause the other ones to get over-driven thus shortening the lifespan.

@AcornElectron 4 жыл бұрын

Gets the Monday night thumbs up from me 😂☺️. Hot air?

@mahlapropyzm9180 4 жыл бұрын

Well done - I've tried getting thos chips off before. The package just loves turning to cheese long before the solder melts. It should be fine to run from the mains, so long as you haven't doamaged the chips too much. Not really cost effective but keeps it out of the landfill. The nlack spot of death is a common failure mode. from looking at the design it looks like it is getting heated from behind by the circuit board which might be bringing on an early death. The makers tend to overdrive the LEDs, reducing their life, and use poor quality components on the circuitry which will always fail long before the theoretical service life of the LED.

@tomaszski9818 4 жыл бұрын

Hi Vince, great video, keep doing what you do. My LED bulbs also do not last longer then 1 year. Now I keep receipts because there is warranty on them at least two years. I did try to fix them also. In some of them the electronics inside is complicated and can fail. I belive these leds thing from China are the biggest scum ever. They should last forever but last only one year, so they end up on lanfills polluting the earth. That is why I am big fan of your work to prevent things being throw away.

@maniatore2006 4 жыл бұрын

I had the same Problem with my Smart TV one LED is burned out and the whole TV was not working (LED´s) i just bridge that faulty one..and well it works. But to deesample the Display was a challange, and put it again together. By the way, the led unter the hot air looks like a Fried egg. :D great video, thanks :)

@3-cpo574 4 жыл бұрын

Yes review please look good.

@nikitasdimopoulos703 4 жыл бұрын

You are the best! I have post notifications ON and i always come and watch !!

@TheMadrory 4 жыл бұрын

There are 30 8v LEDs in series for the 240V supply. (30x8=240) Using power/resistance/current equations... V=Voltage, I=Current (A), P=Power (W), R=Resistance (Ω). VI=P V=IR so R=V/I Based on the spec sheet for the bulb, it is 4W power. V=240V P=4W 240x(I)=4 I=4/240=2/120=1/60=0.01667(A) per diode, and since in series we know 8V (240/30) R=240(V)/0.01667(A)=14.4kΩ If you don't have any spare diodes, you can use a 14.4kΩ resister in its place. If you just short the contacts, you reduce the resistance across the circuit so are likely to cause the other LEDs to burn out faster because more current (I) is flowing through.

@H4zuZazu 4 жыл бұрын

Your Heat-gun is way to hot, if you melt the Plasic it is to hot.

@insanedruid3143 4 жыл бұрын

This is the ONE thing getting me to scream at my screen on so many episodes: WAY to hot irons/air/tweezers. Even after all these times. With all these amazing fixes.

@dorfschmidt4833 4 жыл бұрын

@@insanedruid3143 And crusty tips.

@insanedruid3143 4 жыл бұрын

I mean... the tweezers insta melted it ... "lets try the iron, SAME 400 degrees".. insta melted again, off to the air "iv'e set it to 400..." yea these 400 degrees will surely not burn everything. hot air, 270 degrees, should be fine.

@dorfschmidt4833 4 жыл бұрын

@@insanedruid3143 These SMD LEDs aren't holding up very well under heat anyway. Only good for soldering them once.

@thomasesr 4 жыл бұрын

He always uses his heat devices 100 or more degrees too hot

@whatislovebutonelonggame5406 4 жыл бұрын

i solder any 3mm led i can get (they are between 1.8~2.4v) and trim the legs without de-soldering the faulty led, works like a champ

@jamesdougan8789 4 жыл бұрын

g`day vince did you try bypassing the burnt out L.E.D and going to the next one with a enamel wire might be worth a try just for the video in real life i would just change the globe out like you said.. but for the knowledge and fun might be worth a go ...great video old mate cheers james D

@Operational117 4 жыл бұрын

That was the method I had in mind, but if it works, then it works.

@beavis6363 4 жыл бұрын

Or jump with a resistor if relevant.

@lucaspagan3576 4 жыл бұрын

James Dougan The Black Dot ⚫️ of death is a common cause of broken LED lamps here in the US as well. I had a similar issue with a cheap Chinese lamp, I bought from the dollar store. To fix the issue, I simply bridged the bad LED out with some wire. The Bulb has worked for 5 days so far.

@lycanlycans7548 4 жыл бұрын

I think hot air soldering is here the best solution or ? Best regards and thank you for your beautiful nice informative videos Al the time!

@scottfirman 4 жыл бұрын

I am at the point in my life I do not care about fixing something like that. It's not that I cant, it's because I don't want to. Unless you modify Those, they will continue to die an early death. It used to be when you said something would last, it did. Now days everyone lies and gets away with it. As a matter of fact, telling the truth about how long those actually last wouldnt matter because people would still buy them. I think we should have stuck with the standard light bulb myself. They outlast anything on the market today.

@tomthumb4454 4 жыл бұрын

I think it's more "you get what you pay for" in this situation. I bought the LIFX (A19) led bulb in 2017 and it is still working with continuous operation daily/nightly schedule. They are worth $60 each bulb. But yeah for most things they flat out lie for marketing. And if you complain, they will refund or send you a free replacement. So little people would bother with contacting the seller and they know this.

@-Scraggyanne- 4 жыл бұрын

Interesting video always wondered what L.E.D bulbs looked like inside. It's a shame that the fix failed. I guess it's not fixable, shame

@AcornElectron 4 жыл бұрын

Scraggyanne what video were you watching? He fixed them both sort of 😂

@brycehenson4345 4 жыл бұрын

A short inside the LCD bulb at the end of the video you can buy LCD on e bay turn down the heat on hot air you can damage it a dimmer are not met for lcd or led bulbs a good way to test the meter used it at the end of the bulb where you plug it into you should be able to light the all of it at once. Keep them coming there good videos that you are doing well.

@davehud2831 4 жыл бұрын

Hello mate.. Where do you get those microscopes from? I'm enjoying your videos.. Nice one

@MadManMcGirt 4 жыл бұрын

1 year = 8760 hours. generally you can go back at the manufaturer and make a complaint and they may send you replacements. I believe that the LED lamps (like the one you are using) are made in serial. If so, if one is not good, then, just like a string of xmas lights, none will work. (this is posted at the beginning of your vid so not sure if you came to this conclusion)

@GadgetUK164 4 жыл бұрын

Interesting video =D My guess is there's a cap gone bad inside it too, but the other problem is the heat needed to remove them kind of damages them. Did you notice how easy they melted when trying to remove them - they turned into what looks like the centre of a Creme Egg =D They are super cheap, and when soldered on at factory they are done quickly to reduce risk of them having adverse effect to the heat. If you sourced a new replacement LED rather than trying to swap them over, I suspect it might last ages again - assuming there isn't something wrong with the components inside that power them. If the resistance of a failing LED drops, it ends up over voltaging the rest too. As you thought - you could just bridge it out and it would work, but put additional voltage into the remaining LEDs. The other thing you could do here is very very carefully measure voltages across the LED array. Be super careful though as is going to be switched DC and likely high voltage. They might just be super super cheap using a resistor to feed the LEDs with AC or something =/

@themlotproductions Жыл бұрын

I wonder whether the run time has been calculated as a culmination of each LED, i.e. 30,000 hours divided by the ten LEDs?

@chriskleigh 4 жыл бұрын

Try cutting the strip we’re it is glued it should open up to a sheet and heat the back at a lower temperature to remove led

@charlesdeens8927 4 жыл бұрын

That's exactly what I was thinking. Those LED's were most likely assembled as sheets, then wrapped around the cylinder and glued secure at the seam. Unwrap the LED sheet, and see if you can apply heat from the back.

@lexander9686 4 жыл бұрын

Good job mate 👍 I might just do the same thing myself.

@MyklBlue69 Жыл бұрын

Yes I would use these, 100%

@sprinter768 4 жыл бұрын

Might want to try just bridging the pads under the blown LEDs. It's less work and no need to risk blowing good LEDs from the sacrificial bulb in the process.

@yatesyification 2 жыл бұрын

There is a documentary I saw on youtube on the worlds longest lasting lightbulb, turns out basically the people who make the bulbs have a monopoly and design them to fail.

@momoster69 4 жыл бұрын

another great video Vince!, Keep it up! your bloody brills...

@simonebille1168 4 жыл бұрын

Great Video Vince, please post soon again i love your videos :)

@standishgeezer 4 жыл бұрын

LEDs are actually 'constant current devices' They have a 'voltage drop' so the voltage must be equal or greater than that drop. The brightness however is controlled by the current driving them and this current must not exceed the maximum tolerated by the LED (normally in the 20mA - 30mA range but can be higher - some SMD around 100mA). It would have been interesting to see, on your power supply, the current being drawn when a LED began to light. It is possible that the circuitry delivering power to the LEDs (which I don't think you examined) was malfunctioning and not limiting the current sufficiently resulting in a random LED burning out and cutting power to the others.

@GGigabiteM 4 жыл бұрын

>It is possible that the circuitry delivering power to the LEDs (which I don't think you examined) was malfunctioning and not limiting the current sufficiently resulting in a random LED burning out and cutting power to the others. This bulb uses a capacitor dropper, there is no current regulation other than what is set by the capacitor value and the current mains voltage. As the mains voltage fluctuates up and down, so does the current being delivered to the LEDs. What causes random LEDs to burn out is because the LEDs were shit to begin with. If you look at the beginning of the video where he has the bulbs lit at low intensity, you'll see that all of the LEDs have varying brightness to each other, this is because the LEDs are defective and have leakage due to problems with the LED die(s). You can basically think of each LED having a varying resistance in parallel with it and each LED will take more or less current depending on what that parasitic resistance is, hence the varying brightness level. LEDs with more leakage are going to run hotter than LEDs with less or no leakage and are more prone to failure due to degradation of the die(s) and the increased heat output. Big Clive has an excellent video explaining this: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ld2CktB3vMutZo0.html The problem he explains applies to ANY LED package type, whether it be individual LEDs or COB style LEDs with phosphor coatings. The market is flooded with shit LEDs and it's really hard to find a good source for affordable good LEDs. The only source I currently know of is a seller on Ebay called Sure-Display.

@dodgydruid 4 жыл бұрын

Mr V, at the mo Lidl's has a very useful PowerFix "handy tool" with a LED large magnifier, soldering iron stand and a couple of "extra hands" in the forms of movable crocodile clips all on a heavy base so the glass won't tip over the unit and all for £6, its not as powerful as my 1600x USB scope but its a lot more powerful than my large stand magnifier and loads more powerful than those cheap Chinese ones. I can do my watch stuff with ease using this one and I can mount my usb scope into the helpy hand things and its locked in solid.

@thomasesr 4 жыл бұрын

Hey Vince! You should package and send those bulbs to BigClive in Isle of Man so he can reverse engineer the bulbs and find the cause of the fault. He loves that kind of stuff, and I can't remember he doing a video about that particular kind of bulb before.

@JSJneo 4 жыл бұрын

Great video thanks. Possible that the step down transformer circuit is faulty in the led bulbs?

@nameless5413 4 жыл бұрын

i am fan of plain old iridescent light bulbs, dirt cheap not complicated at all and no need for any special treatment. Worthy effort, imo you overheated the LEDs they are inanely sensitive to heat and power fluctuations.

@AigioVlogs 4 жыл бұрын

Hello there Vince, well that's a tough one haha, heat melting the leds with all the tools

@snowballs159 4 жыл бұрын

i have the same problem with different LEDs the ones that look like pencil and when u find one with black dot u can just unsolder it an bridge contacts either with solder or piece of wire an it will work, granted u will have one less diode but it will shine plenty hope it helps

@xxrs2009 4 жыл бұрын

I had bought a cheap VYSER G4 led bulb on ebay from China. It actually overheated and the soft plastic/rubber-metarial around it melted. You saw a component glowing hot and smoking.. Since then I'm affraid to buy those cheap leds.. Well it was over 5 watts which is a lot maybe..

@DarkGT 4 жыл бұрын

I had fluorescent LED light that burn before the advertised time, there is plenty of usable components to recover from such large bulb if you have one. Large capacitors, Leds (if not burn) and other things.

@Lardzor 4 жыл бұрын

The light had printed on it: 'G9 3014 30PCS PCB'. It's hard to ignore that 240v divided by 30 LEDs is 8v. That's the same voltage that lit the LED brightly. So if all the LEDs are connected in series, there is no additional circuitry required re regulate the voltage except possibly a bridge rectifier and capacitor to eliminate the 25Hz flicker. You should also be able to just remove the bad LED and bridge the contacts. Remove one LED and now you have 240v divided by 29, and you will overdrive the 8v LEDs to 8.28v. It may reduce the lifespan, it may not. But even so, a reduced lifespan is better than none at all.

@MichaelBonenfant 4 жыл бұрын

Can you link that cheapy microscope? Not sure if you mentioned it below in the comments (I might have missed it), thanks!

@markvandesande8855 3 жыл бұрын

Welcome to my led snow blind work world.🙃🙂

@clydedanger5932 4 жыл бұрын

would it be possible to use a jumper wire to skip the faulty diode?

@davesmith7671 4 жыл бұрын

Great video Vince. I've attempted this in the past with the gu10 led bulbs but had no success myself though. Quick question you hot air station unit do you remember what you paid for it and where you got it from. I'm in the market for a new station but on a budget and I like the idea of the one you have. Mostly doing laptop trace repairs and component replacement. My recent job was a nightmare soldering tips too big not enough power and constantly having to put the laptop back together enough to use the power supply on it to test it's working properly sucked.

@martinmeyer2008 4 жыл бұрын

I got the same microscope from wish.com - arrived faulty :-( Would have been nice, saving up now for a proper workshop microscope. Thanks for another good video! :-)

@ashangstrom8362 4 жыл бұрын

I'd be interested in a review of the microscope. So far I'd seldom needed one so never felt the money was justified to spend. But for that price I think I'd buy one. Obviously I wouldn't expect something that compares to the expensive brands. Though being able to do the rare solder job with it would be a bonus. So I'd be interested if you can move it up and down and if yes how high. And also if the screen can be rotated

@ripleysmith7583 4 жыл бұрын

The reason your meter couldn’t test him is because most multi meters only put out 1.2 to 1.5 V on diode test because your standard diode only drops .7 V and those diode’s were drawing for more voltage than that so your meter couldn’t put out enough power to get it to beep

@gadgetuk48 4 жыл бұрын

Oh I've just brought that microscope they are pretty good, shame no tilt on it though

@MrJacob1981 2 жыл бұрын

I would have liked to see one done with just a wire across to see if that fixed it too

@josephneale10215 4 жыл бұрын

Great video as always ❤️👍🏻

@rkm-amusements2271 4 жыл бұрын

Most LED's are conected in groups of 3 or 4 (low voltage lamps), but all in series in the cheaper 220v lamps so if 1 died the whole lamp does nothing at all like the one in the video. If I may give you one advice, buy new power LED's and replace the bad one for a brand new one and don't get the temperature above 230 degrees celcius, just heat the pads and NOT the LED's, the LED's go bad because of heat from your heatgun, . I repaired a lot of these lights with succes, so you can do it too. Good luck

@alexrivera.churchpianist 4 жыл бұрын

Im glad that you got a microscope! GREAT! :D If I'm not mistaken, you can record from it on and save it on a micro sd card.

@PlanetRuncorn 4 жыл бұрын

think u need to use a small hot air gun nozzel, and a pointer tip on the iron maybe a 1.2mm chisel tip

@WillMorgan89 4 жыл бұрын

I've got about 30 GU10 lamps dotted around the house. Some burn through the night on a dusk dawn sensor, and others are on and off through the evening. I've only had one die in 3 years, and it looks like a fualty LED (black spot of death). Prior to changing to GU10's I had a series of G9 lamps, and they would always be failing, and the quality of light would be very poor.

@KorAllRBare 4 жыл бұрын

I am curious as to why the second "Light Emitting Diode" Err-LED" in from the edge seems to be the main one that fails, only thing that makes sense is the fact that the bank of diodes are fed "Alternating Current" Err-"AC", Ergo it may be that diode in the bank may be experiencing some sort of resonance effect "Two waves overlapping" caused by all those diodes as they switch on and off via current going back and forth and then being cut off at peak voltage, long story short voltage spikes are created when current is abruptly cut off, and due to the location of that diode that's where the voltage spikes are more likely to meat or end up and thus discharge around that area of diodes, of course it could have just been serendipitous serendipity.. Dawg I love that word "Serendipitous" as to what diodes are failing..

@ParlofPox 4 жыл бұрын

I have the same problem with LED Lights in my Car. Sometimes they fully work, sometime only a little light, sometimes only short flashing. My mechanic told me it has to with some sort of resistor inside the LED bulb. Still not fixed though.

@MyklBlue69 Жыл бұрын

Right, now fix the doner bulb by bridging the missing LEDs and see how it looks. I'd love to see that 😉

@technixbul 4 жыл бұрын

Overheat and overcurrent kill LED's, those lamps always overheat due to poor heatsink and they often are overcurrent drived. Those leds are 4 in 1 package (4x2V@20mA each). To desolder SMD leds you need to heat them from the back of PCB otherwise you always melt the pastic package (3014 is the model). i use hot air on 500C and desolder them quickly and safely from the back, but it is pain. Also flux on front face discolour them or change their colour. Ofcourse you will use them again ... if they burn, you will change LEDs again

@CoolerQ 4 жыл бұрын

Your meter read "OL" when you tested them on diode mode because your meter isn't capable of supplying 8V in diode mode. Some meters specifically advertise that they have a higher diode test voltage (e.g. the EEVBlog 121GW advertises "15V Diode Test Voltage"). If you use a meter like that you should get a meaningful measurement in diode mode.

@DAVIDGREGORYKERR 4 жыл бұрын

Wipe the bulbs with acetone and leave to dry for a couple of days so they don't catch fire then reinstall, I think that the leds are polymer leds not your standard leds.

@wasserman63 4 жыл бұрын

if you got a black dot on the led its brocken and the 8 volts its easy to explain its not one led in that packet its 3 8 volts divedet by 3 equals 2.6 volts your meter has a 9 volt battery but its use not the hole 9 volts for diode test i migth to rember around 4 greetings from germany

@mohamadasriabdulazid4784 4 жыл бұрын

Use it, nothing to loose. I do it all the time. Sometimes it just like a lottery if they good, they good if not then it's not. The problem with cheap led is there is no extensive testing at manufacturing process, so it kinda game of luck for the buyer. You may got bad batch or you may got gold one.😂

@MyklBlue69 Жыл бұрын

Looks to me like you need one of those electric charge soldering irons or whatever they're called. It melts the solder by electric charge rather than heat so it doesn't melt the plastic.

@kirkb4989 4 жыл бұрын

I use the ones that I fix, so go for it!

@JohnJohnson-yy3ni 2 жыл бұрын

LED 8-ft long how do I replace the LEDs on it with that Scott a flat aluminum backing strip down that slides into place with LED lights on two lines going down it

@abzhuofficial 4 жыл бұрын

Yep Vince, heat is "wasted electricity" if it is not used for the intended purposes, like light bulbs to light up rooms, and please do a review on the microscope here.

@bcfisk 4 жыл бұрын

Not wasted during the winter.

@abzhuofficial 4 жыл бұрын

@@bcfisk Thus the double quotes or speech marks. Heck, my Hisense early-era 4K TV shoots out heat like a gas heater in the winter. Haha

@bcfisk 4 жыл бұрын

@@abzhuofficial Back when I had a desktop and a halogen lamp, didn't even need a heater in my room.

@abzhuofficial 4 жыл бұрын

@@bcfisk That's one of the key upsides with certain electricity guzzlers: being an alternative heat source in winter, and you've had plenty of experience here. That's why I don't like to use heaters a lot, alongside the nauseating feeling from radiators and some gas heaters. I'd rather wear multiple layers and use a TV as a heat source than use a radiator haha

@kevenjackson734 4 жыл бұрын

I repaired one of my led bulbs, it was flickering and I found a damaged resistor so I replaced it and been using it since.

@kenevans4424 4 жыл бұрын

suggestion vince why dont you use a lump of blue tac to hold small stuff steady i do some times

@scottgibson7534 4 жыл бұрын

Hi Vince Each L E D is a die it has 3 chip led,s in ,the common fault with a led die out is always the middle led.

@dorfschmidt4833 4 жыл бұрын

Three in one.

@bobatedonut2034 4 жыл бұрын

Great vid

@cyberhornthedragon 4 жыл бұрын

now here in the USA the led bulbs ive had a look into that have failed its the capacitor in the powersupply that fails

@home-space 4 жыл бұрын

Why do they wire the ledS like this? It significantly increases the risk of failure of the entire bulb as it only needs one of the leds to fail for the entire light to fail.

@mikegregory9915 4 жыл бұрын

Vince can you do a review on your microscope thanks.....

@zynaps666 4 жыл бұрын

Hi Vince, Another great video. Nice work. Here's a sneaky PC based trick for the cheapo Chinese microscope using a USB cable I discovered. Firstly install the software for another version of the scope, the one without the built in lcd display from their website. The software I found is called DinoCapture v2.0. This is only for the drivers. The program won't recognise the scope. Next install the freeware program S-Eye v1.4.7. Connect the microscope to the PC/laptop. When you start S-Eye the microscope shows up as a device in the camera list. The microscope screen shows USB and the buttons become unusable but the image on the PC screen can be made fullscreen. It's not half bad and it still charges the scopes battery as well. I've never seen this mentioned in review videos and it is not in the scant instructions that come with the scope. It passes the time doesn't it. Sean.

@andrewlittleboy8532 4 жыл бұрын

Go back to halogen, you can buy G9's on ebay dirt cheap. 100 for £40! I bought about 200 and they last ages! Hate LED and I certainly don't change them as often as one year, maybe 2 or three years! BigClive actually discovered that some LED nightlights actually use just as much energy as the tungsten bulb equivalent due to the circuit design. Also many of these LED bulbs are failing so prematurely (especially outdoor flood lights) and are just ending up as e-waste in landfill. Even LED street lights fail regularly where as the superior sodium lamps can last for years.