Thank you for being g part of the Buell community 😊👍

🤣

Thanks for your feedback 👍🏁

Well, sometimes you find Buell’s what had no seal change for more then 10 years and they cleared out of that quite well. We say 3 years, but honestly we are not sure is it the seal or the quality of some repair jobs in the past. If a bike runs well and the AFV value match, there is mostly no need to change the seals.

Grundle butter milkshake

Thanks for your positive response and your offer. All good, we do that to support the owners and one day there come this or that way some business out of it 🙂 but thanks for asking 😊

Thanks Gregory for you reply. It Is indeed a lot of discussion about “advanced” seals and about additional ingredients, like liquid sealers or oil. Our points of view are very simple. -simple quality black rubber seal for 5$ the pair works fine. -proper work is most important, damaged manifold ends or a bad job does not get compensated by tricky parts. -we mount the seals dry, no oil, no liquid sealers. -always make sure your throttle body or carburetor is fixed to the engine. The best seal replacement will not last, if the manifold can move.

Well, if you do it for the first time, calculate a half day. If you are not well equipped with tools or you are not very patient, you might be better with rotating the engine.

Warming up always helps. Indeed they are getting stone hard. Make sure to have the new one before removing it.

I can check that tomorrow and come back to you.

It’s 4mm exactly out

Ok, thanks. Can you clarify where that is measured from?

That little maggot screw stands out 4mm from its seat in the direction to hold the throttle open. If you send us a mail, I can send you picture to clarify. Info@nccr.se

I thought we say “torque after spec”. But indeed, if you do it each day you don’t think about it. We will in future video point that better out, thanks for your comment.

@@NCCRSweden how do you know how much pressure to apply when there's not a torque wrench that would fit in there? Manual says, "Make sure throttle body is centered between cylinders and tighten all intake flange screws to 96-120 in-lbs (10.8-13.6 Nm)."

Experience 🙂 At the manifold itself a torque spec would not work, as the torque sequence is very individual. It’s a construction out of these days, when a mechanic had it in the fingers. When you have all 4 bolts in place you start to torque them around step by step with max half turns. A slightly wobbling on the throttlebody / manifold makes sure that it end up in its natural end position, but make sure too, that it’s stands proper horizontally. For that we have hand mounted, the little T25 screw what connect the manifold on the left side with the engine mount. Continue torquing the 4 bolts around and around, open the throttle and inspect that the seal rubber rings not get pinched or pressed out. It comes the moment when all starts to feel very solid, now you torque the bolts to end specs. Because of the bad tool positioning it’s impossible to break the bolt or the threads. So when you feel you tool might start spinning in or on the head if the screw it’s time to stop. Again that’s a job you, as all of us, need to get practice and experience. Being a good mechanic is not just having a manual, specs and the right tools, it’s also the long history of try and fail 😉 Edited: we know what the manual say, but as you pointed out by yourself, it’s impossible to use a torque wrench. As an experienced mechanic, the torque value still gives you an idea what is required.

@@NCCRSweden I just want to let you guys know that I bought a mini 20-200 in lbs 1/4in torque drive. I set it to 110in lbs and practiced on a bolt just to get a feel for it and helped me get within that ballpark of 96-120 in lbs on the manifold.

Too be fair…NCCR had a lot of patience answering such a question, clearly a torque gauge, wrench or any measuring device can’t be used in a confined space such as this…..the bottom line is this, if you can’t torque a bolt or nut by feel within a tolerable amount….take your bike too a mechanic that can, or remove your engine and put it on a stand….plenty of room for a torque wrench then. NCCR has the patience of a saint sometimes I’m sure.