Thanks for the feedback Ron.

@@JohnMinerLuthier I was surprised that you shared your info on a couple video"s but at any rate if i was was there or you where here we could have a few beers together! I thought about trying it before but until I saw your video I wasn't sure! Your video showed me what I wasn't sure of and thanks to you I did it ! Thanks John great info !

Thanks for sharing...one question...how You Fix a belly problema? In a guitar😂

Thanks for sharing...one question...how You Fix a belly problema? In a guitar😂

Drink less beer

I agree except for the bridge doctor ! I would fix the belly bulge problem first and even steam that part as well and then deal with the neck ! Avoid adding any new braces ! Also if it takes a lot of pressure to pull the neck down then steam it first and then clamp it to spot you want it to be to avoid snapping the headstock ! You could of course just clamp it at the first fret !

Good luck!

He mentioned half a dozen times for a month. So, Monday & Friday once a week for 2 weeks, then once a week for weeks 3&4 will get you to 4 weeks.

Steam around 5 or 6 times over 4 weeks, take off clamps, remove rags & leave to dry out for another 2 weeks.

@@JohnMinerLuthier Thanks for the answer! I think the most annoying thing with this method is the waiting time. If you don't leave it for 2 weeks to dry could it get back to the bad angle of the neck?

@@77guitarts22 I think it's better to let it dry, because wet wood is plastic, it can be deformed under the string tension.

He leaves it clamped.

Don’t clamp the head stock, make sure that your straight edge bar (which is used to clamp the next street) all the way to the head stock, and then fix your clamp to this straight edge, not the headstock itself.

Exactly what I wanted to know. First, force it, then steam??

Yes, I’ve done this several times, first force sit down (within reason, you will get a feel if you’re going too far usually), then steam.

@@bradstock You have done it and so have I ! It is hard to explain to someone that has not done it isnt it ? Im thinking its a lot like riding a bicycle !

He said you can have it a bit more distance there because it always comes down a bit in time. I do like 5 mm to 1 cm distance

You could try that - or you could take my advice not to try that.

Too late bubs@@Iazzaboyce

Get an aluminum square tube for the neck brace, and cut a slot on the bottom of it to clear the nut.

He doesn't.

I've done this twice successfully, and I would say time is going to depend on your steamer. Steam the neck block area until the top is very warm to hot on either side of the neck.

It’s a great question and there is no single answer. In my experience, you need to take it slow and steady, the guitar will sort of “tell you” when you should stop. I’ve done this on several guitars now, all have been a success except for one which resulted in a crack in the neck heel. This was an old instrument and it’s possible that the neck heel was already unstable, and I was able to do a nearly undetectable fix and the guitar still plays like a dream. But it’s a good reminder to go slow and steady, inspecting the guitar closely after each steam/clamp.

If it feels like too much pressure then use steam to loosen the glue bond a bit and then use the clamp to get it in position ! The other option is to put another clamp on the metal bar or whatever you are using to keep the neck straight ! It could also feel tight if you have already gone beyond the point it was at when it left the factory and what you have done is flattened out ! I generally get the guitar set in position first before applying steam but maybe you are dealing with hide glue or even expoxy ?

lossen is the logical way

It won't help a belly bulge, a bridge doctor is the answer,

@@JohnMinerLuthier It worked for me on a belly bulge but it was a 6 string! Maybe it is a cheap 12 string without a good hardwood bridge plate or one that was too small or it could even have a loose brace that can be difficult to find ? I always have it in my mind what caused the problem and go from there !

Either way is Ok.

2 or 3 is my latest method.

@@JohnMinerLuthier Thanks! 2 or 3 times the first week?

@@77guitarts22 He said about half a dozen times over a course of a month. So if you did 2 times a week, once a week, that be half a dozen, and you'd have one week left to make the month.

He has.

No.

Yes

It will.

@@JohnMinerLuthier well I managed to clamp straight the neck but have just used weights for the rest as I only had 2 clamps ..but forces are in the same direction. Fingers crossed it works. thanks.

@@paulcrawford5153 Hey! Did you manage to do it?

@@osvaldomorinigo it helped a bit.. I took it off too early and I will put it back on for more.. I am pretty sure it is the problem with the guitar.. don't know if it left factory like that. Will let you know how i get on with it , thanks,

@@paulcrawford5153 I understand, thanks for answering. You can check if it works by putting a 60cm ruller on top of the frets, they should all be lined up. You also have to be careful of the ambiet humidity, if the humidity that the guitar is exposed to is too high, it can cause the wood to bend. The string tension can also be too much for the guitar, if it's a classical, you have to bear in mind to use nylon-only strings. It can also be a factory problem caused by the way it was assembled. Kindly let me know how it turns out. Thanks again.

Twice a week for the 1st 2 weeks, once a week for weeks 3&4

Maybe he put all his comments on this video ? It really works and I have done it about 5 times now ! This is the kind of thing that is exrtremly hard to describe but easy to show ! I usually only do the process once and leave it sit for a week and as soon as I loosen the headstock clamp it is loose right away ( maybe one eighth of a turn ) and that tells me it is done !

Australian accent is probably why you can't understand him.

I understood it very well and am getting up the courage to try this on a nice old solid wood Yairi. Those guitars are likely to have been glued with epoxy and a traditional neck reset would turn into a nightmare in a hurry. Here is what I got out of the video --> Remove the nut. Clamp the guitar body down firmly, but not tight to a board with a soft/medium soft foam sheet on top of it to keep the back from deforming from the pressure. Fill the entire back of the body with rags to keep steam from getting in there and loosening the bracing when you get to steaming. Place a stiff and straight piece of metal on top of the neck; clamp into place. Pull the headstock down with another clamp until there is about 2 mm of clearance between the neck angle and the top of the bridge checked with a straight edge (you can pull down on the metal piece that is clamped to the neck if it over hangs long enough to get a clamp on it - my preferred method). Steam the top of the guitar on either side of the neck/fretboard until the outer surface feels hot to the touch. Add a clamp to the fretboard extension to pull that area up where it was when the guitar was new (small bit of fall-away). Leave the guitar clamped for 1 month while occasionally steaming it. Steam it every few days the first week and at least 1 time each of the following three. Leave it for another 2 weeks to dry out before you unclamp it. Check the neck angle with a straight edge to the bridge. If it is good, fix the saddle height, reinstall the nut, and put strings on it - you are good to go. If not, go back to step one of this process.