Allen Cross purist

And no starting and stopping, arranging the mic on the fly, saying you should've not talked so much while still talking.

Agree 100%, every second of your videos has meaningful content!

Oh, provocateur!

Absolutely!

Why is everyone afraid? Use an old obscure LP that's not on CD or streaming sites. So simple but today I have heard only turntable reviews with no sound. Madness!

petri salonen It’s not that they’re afraid, it’s that KZfaq will monetize their video and they won’t make any money off of it. This all happens automatically, I’ve had videos utilizing records from the 20s get copyright claims.

Record-ology. Ok thanks I didn't know how strict it is. Stupid really, if you guys play like 20 seconds of a record how it can harm anybody? For God's sake you could make us even want to buy the music we hear? Times are really just getting worse with every new decade. Less freedom everywhere, but more austerity instead.

petri salonen I would tend to agree! Sometimes I get dinged on some music if I go over 3 seconds!!! And a lot of the time the claimants are erroneous. There is an appeals process but it can be maddening.

He has plenty of videos with sound. He does the best cartridge comparisons on KZfaq. I think it is nice reading the text without the usual chatter.

Stereo store in the 70’s had one upside down on the ceiling. They claimed there was. I modification other than the record glued to the platter.

​@@greydogmusic i once was very high and my home as two floors having a balcony in the second floor to one side only the other it´s only the roof, once i had my two Sl-1200mkII playing records in a party at my home and some started to bother me saying "let me put this and that...i was either than high also drunk and i threw it from the balcony to the street, when i woke up next afternoon i went to the balcony drinking cofee and smoking a cigar that´s when i look to the street and saw a turntable than i look inside and one was missing only after maybe 10 minuts i remenber having throwing it to the street, half an hour later after dressing myself with some snickers and shorts i went to see it and for my surprise the cover was broken in half but the turntable it wotked and believe it or not i had some shure professional needles and it was not broken or crocked," this is very strong ",i thought at the time and for the ones who don´t use covers in the turntable, if i had not the cover assembled several parts would brake so to avoid destroying a good turntable while throwing it from a second floor to the street , use covers avoid having to buy another turntable ,they are not there just to avoid being filled with dust but they protect it, when working i used to take them off but this was at home in a litle terrace(not that litle maybe 45 square meters)

This is because they matured their skill right before cds came in. You will have to spend thousands to compete with some of the vintage tables.

That’s why you need to buy a modern turntable the caliber of a VPI and be ready to spend at least $1500. I would not spend anything less than that on a modern turntable. Inflation my friend

The clearaudio table is the nicest I've seen, really I can't believe it's not twice the price. You chose wisely.

Your experience is very common. I love the "vintage" turntables, but I would only buy one if I could locate a highly reputable person/business to do a full restoration as soon as I acquired it. I perfect working condition, a "vintage", direct drive, 1970's turntable is unparalleled in performance and appearance.

Got my 1350 about 3 years ago....$75.00 eBay, before everything went nuts.

yeh, realistic doesn't get much credit for putting out some good stuff because people think radio shack products are just junk. some of it is but, they also made some good stuff.

Great find! Quartz lock is amazing

Dude, have you ever heard of something called inflation? That pioneer when new perhaps cost $199 in say 1979. That modern u turn turntable is what, $199 in 2020? Let’s factor in inflation: $199 in 1979 is $709 in 2020. This was not a fare comparison obviously.

@@jogmas12 inflation has nothing to do with it, the video is about buying a turntable in the present. You are aware that it is possible to purchase a vintage electronic device right? Like, did you think this video was about going back in time to buy a turntable? It took me literally 30 seconds to find PL-540s on secondhand sites for around the same price as a new UTurn. It's a perfectly fair* comparison

@@joechisten7176 dude, inflation does factor in. Too keep that u turntable at $199 in todays would obviously require them to use inferior materials than what they made that hypothetical pioneer turntable in 1979. And don’t lecture me on vintage. I own a 1985 Acoustic Research turntable bought new in 1985 still in use today. It would cost over $1200 today to make that same turntable with the same materials

@@jogmas12 I want you to go online right now and actually look up the turntables featured in this video and compare the prices you find. They are literally the same price. Please shut the fuck up

@@jogmas12 and like , the thing about materials and construction is literally the point of the video lmao

Build a collection mate. No seriously, flog the cement mixer and buy one really good quality deck :).

Jeffery Jones I’m doing the same thing all I need is a new pair of speakers. Love the U-Turn as well. It’s not quite as good as my Technics, but I really love it.

Miles better than the crappy stripped down projects and regas

Thanks for sharing. It’s great that young people are getting into vinyl, but I LOVE that music lovers from the hay-day of Hifi are rediscovering the hobby.

Robb Fulton )

I have one as well! I cherish it deeply, and would never sell! Still sounds good after all these years!

You could always customize it many people do that for these late 70s pioneer turntables and they aren’t too hard to do

BSR changers destroyed Vinyl.

I dont want hum so I may have to not get a dual and go with the orbit, oh well

@@jerryking7502 Quite right Jerry! Its all conjecture as sound is the most important thing when listening to a turntable which has not been testedin this post ! Its all in the ears and everybody will almost certainly have a differing opinion! I have a project debut carbon (2014) and have upgraded my platter, phono stage and stylus and I am very happy with the results(just by listening) If everybody listened to the tech snobs then every other hi-fi enthusiast would feel inferior! What I am trying to say is that everybody has a different opinion as to what turntable is the best and debating it turns into a futile argument! Just listen to make your own mind up and then buy within your budget! Simples!

@@jerryking7502 , generally I prefer belt-drive turntables, both for the overall Simplicity of design that typically equates to much greater longevity and ease of service, and also because belt-drive turntables typically have lower Rumble and greater isolation from acoustic feedback. I fix stereo equipment for a living, I've worked on many hundreds of turntables, and have personally owned about a dozen different brands. I find it difficult to recommend highly electronic or mechanically- complicated vintage turntables to novice buyers because unless they buy it cheaply and locally, perhaps having a chance to test it first for complete proper function, they're likely to get a pig in a poke that they won't be able to easily repair themselves or canmot easily find somebody to fix it for them at a price they can afford. (And turntables fare extremely poorly in shipment unless the seller has the original box and disassembles and packs it per the owner's manual instructions , which rarely happens). In particular, I don't recommend fully automatic turntables as a rule because of the extra complexity in moving mechanisms that often tend to become half-seized with time; and if there is any kind of electronically-driven arm function involving a direct drive or linear motor underneath the tonearm, perhaps with opto couplers or photosensors to provide feedback to the electronics as to the position of the arm at any given time, any such turntable can be a nightmare to repair and the opto couplers and sensors are often bad, and no longer available. Anybody considering buying a Sony or Denon fully automatic turntable with electronic tonearm should probably think twice about it, or make absolutely certain that it is 100% functional before they purchase it, or have right of return and refund if it is DOA or fails soon after arrival. By the way, I fixed a Denon direct-drive turntable recently, sorry I can't remember the exact model number, but the platter was dead because of a bad thermal fuse down inside the windings of the direct drive motor. I replaced the thermal fuse , which got the platter rotating, at about two hundred RPMs! It turned out to also have a bad , shorted, driver transistor. It would appear that the driver transistor went bad, maybe the owner left the thing on overnight or something like that, and because of the circuit failure the platter spun at 200 RPMs for however long it took to overheat the coil and blow the thermal fuse. I replaced the driver transistor and then it worked properly. (Well, actually, there was one more problem, the soft touch buttons to select play and stop and the speeds were all sticking and I had to disassemble those plastic mechanisms and clean the dust out of them and lube them with a little bit of Teflon ). I've seen other direct drive turntables with a dozen or more bad capacitors or bad integrated circuits. By contrast, most belt-drive turntables merely need some lubrication on the motor, cleaning of the pulley and inside rim of the platter, a fresh belt, and maybe cleaning of the pitch control or speed select switches. So generally, unless you have some experience at turntable repair already and are highly mechanical, if somebody goes to buy a turntable use I would suggest they stick to manual or semi-automatic units that are belt drive. By the way, DC motors that are used in 99.9% of all turntables that have a pitch control are sometimes known to fail, however, if the turntable has a synchronous motor that runs directly off AC and get its speed control from the line frequency of your house current, those synchronous Motors can easily run for 50 years with a little bit of lubrication every decade or so. Typically, turn tables with synchronous Motors will not have a pitch control (unless there is an on-board Wein Bridge oscillator , which is uncommon, or you are using some kind of fancy separate power supply that allows changes or adjustment to the frequency driving the motor); the trick with turntables like that is that you really need to get the *correct* belt if you want the speed to be truly dead on, and unfortunately many internet sellers who claim their belts are exact replacements for such and such a model turntable aren't telling the truth. Service manuals for belt-drive turntables never ever gave you the actual dimensions, length, width or thickness of the belt for that unit, only a part number, so this is where a service shop comes into play. We have thousands of belts on hand. Of course, it's easier to find a suitable replacement belt if the turntable still has the original on it, which is likely to be stretched a little and somewhat dried up, but it gives you a starting point after you measure it.

@@johnhughes8466 , You should have started and ended your comment with your last sentence.

Martin DA - I'm nearly 60 and I agree with almost everything you've written but.....what could possibly be better than the current situation? Here we are in 2019 with a few old and several new manufacturers making turntables. So what we have now is really the largest choice of new and used turntables that we've ever had. Take those ultra-cheap (and nasty) Crosley things as a prime example. Due to their ease of use, price point and availability, I wonder how many more people have gotten into the whole 'vinyl revival' thing just based on buying one of these?

@@lesrogers7310 Excellent way of looking at things.

That isn’t true about vintage turntables being harder on records. It’s more about having your turntable properly setup (ex. tracking force, stylus overhang, etc) that will keep your records in better shape. Cleaning your LPs and stylus are also key factors, as well as changing out a stylus when it starts showing wear.

I repair vintage gear. My personal table is also a mmf7. Just bought a Sumiko/Jelco arm for it. SAE (USA)Twin monoblock amp and Polk Audio SDA's

Understandable. Prices have risen steeply in my neck of the woods in the last ten years or so also. Still i could score a couple nice vintage turntables for very cheap around 2010. And after a little diy service they work flawless ever since. Both are fully automatic.

Try LP Gear

@@hughbetcha436 Lp gear?

Inflation with electronics doesn’t work that way. How much inflation do you see now? A $300 receiver now is about the same as a $150 receiver was back then. Same for speakers and turntables.

Andrew Crain you wrong on several front namely there are still companies out there, perhaps no longer Sony, that still produce quality turntables.

@@wolfman007zz , I think not for turntables, since there's a lot more mechanical parts in it than receivers. it didn't evolve as much as electronics and amps. but that's just my opinion

Richard Morgan you have to pay more today to match the quality of yesterday

@@jogmas12 Much more that is.

Spoken like a true neophyte.

I find just lowering the needle shows whether or not it is working properly. If not, it doesn't go straight into the groove it was above but drifts in to the centre a bit.

Side 4 of Second Winter. Put it on and leave the party and watch the responses to nothing!

You need to hook it up to an amp with a phono stage and a ground or an external phono pre amp

@@bigsmoke8571 thank you. Appreciate you replying. Now to look for an old mini seperates system with good sound. Maybe technics sa ch700. Any suggestions?. Happy new year again

@@breezebenitses397 my advice is to find a good vintage AV receiver as it leaves allot of options if you ever want to add anything else . I personally have a harman/kardon avr 20. Make sure it has a built in phono amp though

@@bigsmoke8571 👍thank you

Interesting. Which cartridge(s) and phono preamp are you using? The P3 is probably the best bang for the buck table available, but I'm a bit surprised you found that it sounded "much" better than a fully restored 1229. Cheers!

@@terrywho22 I've used VM540ML on both. Stock P3 sounds lighter, you can hear more detail, instruments sound more alive, but stock it has less PRAT than 1229. Modding P3, brought more dynamics, detail and PRAT becouse of better W&F. I've used ART phono pre II and phono stage of Sansui alpha amp. ART sounds dull compared to Sansui. To conclude I wouldn't buy P3 if I haven't had intention to do the mods and satisfy my tinkering needs. Not worth 5x the price I paid for Dual.

@@miharoskar Yes, a good belt drive does sound lighter (faster?) and presents more detail to my ears as well. But I feel the idler lets you hear a bit deeper into the mix and has a more even presentation overall. I've never really figured out what the Brits mean by Pace, Rhythm and Timing (PRaT), but if it's referring to drive and transient attack, I agree the 1229 is great with regards to that. Thanks for the reply and your observations are very interesting.

Well, these surely were built like the proverbial tanks (30cm width only does not keep them from weighing in at a solid 7kg) but they weren't the last word in sound performance either. Not bad by any means but not exactly up there with the best of their price range then. Also the use of T4P cartridges and a fixed tracking force of 1.5gr makes cartridge choice pretty limited so upgrading that is rather difficult (although the SL-10's EPC-310 was really quite exquisit), I also own a Dual CS 750-1 with a Nagaoka MP-200 (I think) and it surely is a much(!) better sounding table - although it is a bit bland in appaerance (and built a decade later than the Technics. I tried an SL-10 for a short while with the aforementioned original MC cartridge and liked it a lot. But it was technically flawed and I couldn't e arsed at the time to have it fixed so I moved on to a near mint SL-7 (which I still regularly use in our bedroom). I think it looks even more stunning than the SL10 and it's not too far off soundwise (I fitted an Ortofon OMP cartridge with a needle 20). This player sits next to (and plays through) a Aurex Series 15 Mini-System and a pair of Quadral speakers and it sounds really pretty sweet. Also it's always a nice piece to show off such a well made and functional linear tracking TT to visitors. 😁

Paulius S vintage audio is not the best when it comes to speakers and amps

@@jogmas12 That's not true with amps. And some speakers it's not either. There are vintage tube amps that I'd take in a heartbeat over modern. Different sound too. And it's not because of distortion

@@el34glo59 it all comes down to personal preferences. Changes in amplifier design from Class A, B, AB or C etc.... haven’t changed all that much although improvements in transformer design for toroidal or EI have been significant to justify improved performance. But to say that a Company like PS Audio which have been making hi fi equipment since the early 70’s is now cutting corners and producing inferior products is complete hogwash. The owner of PS Audio is still alive and well and still has a serious say in the products his company produces!

I think it comes down to a case by case assessment. Klipsch speakers have long-term success assuming that you like their sound. And, there are other brands as well. There are some 1970's receivers and integrated amplifiers from Pioneer, Kenwood, Sansui and others that are superb: highly sought after. That said, there are some magnificent products in today's market as well though I think you have to typically spend a lot of money to reach their level. PrimaLuna tube amps and integrated amps appear to be a throw-back to "vintage" build quality at a very reasonable price when compared to some modern day competitors like Luxman, Audio Research, BAT, and others.

@@el34glo59 amps are amps whether class A, B or AB. Circuit designs can be different. Now there can be certain components in the circuitry that are higher quality like metal film resisters and polypropylene capacitors, whether it uses toroidal or EI transformers. But to say amps in the 70’s sounded better than those today is nonsense. Amps today can be and are being made with those same kind of components I just mentioned