Thank you Kevin, will do!

Thank you Richard for the tip! Others have also mentioned the SmallRig bracket, I didn't know about it.

Hans, thank you for pointing out that for me - I don't know how I could overlook this. BUT... I sware to you that there were occasions, when the program wouldn't even start, even if I put the "correct" interval time in. Also, I did a quick check again: - With 30 sec shutter speeds, at 32 sec intervals, it took photos 62 seconds apart - not good 🚫 - With 25 sec shutter speeds, at 27 sec intervals, it took photos 27 seconds apart - correct ✅ - With 10 sec shutter speeds, at 12 sec intervals, it took photos 12 seconds apart - correct ✅ Seems like it has somekind of problem with the 30 sec shutter speed - no idea what it is.

@@miklosmayerphoto I don't do timelapse (at all), so can't tell you why you experience the problem with the 30sec shutterspeed, but it sounds to me that if you are that serious about doing timelapse, you might want to invest in an intervalometer. The Z50 is a good camera, for what it is, but it is not meant to do everything.

@@miklosmayerphoto I also did this mistake when I had Nikon D5100. For astro TLs, try the following, 1. Shoot in raw only (if you prefer editing them in Lightroom/LRTimelapse) else turn off high ISO NR, ADL, any bracket (if shooting in jpeg) 2. Manual Focus only 3. Your shutter should be single frame only 4. The interval = shutter speed (you can choose it anything, follow 400 rule) + time between frames (you can start with a gap of 1-2 secs, ideally it could be sub 1 second if you use fast cards) 5. In interval time shooting click on shoot now! The following should work, let me know if you have any other quirks. BTW nice video!

i just commented with the same explanation, a little bit longer and more confusing, but i havent checked if anyone did it before me... well at least the "problem" and the "solution" stayed the same hah

Cameras do strange math that will trip you up if you are unaware. Camera math is 15 sec = 16 and 30 sec = 32. So, as an example, if I was capturing something with a 15 sec exposure, I would calculate my interval as: 16 sec exp + 1 or 2 sec to save the photo + the number of seconds that you want between shots.

Thank you Mireille! One commenter suggested to buy a bluetooth remote control - that indeed makes more sense, I also didn't think about it :)

I haven't heard about Z 50 II rumours, but the Nikon Z 30 just came out: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ha9dn85zktK2knU.html

Haha, that would look funny :) Nowadays I'm using my phone for that when taking photos of myself, but in video mode, it only allows the P mode to be used on the Nikon Z50.

Maybe try to update the firmware, there has been quite much improvement in that with version 2.2. Of course, still far from perfect... And also, there's a Menu setting, a7, Low-light AF, turn that on. But even with these set up, I can still easily imagine that you had to use manual focus.

@@miklosmayerphoto -- Thanks. I have the latest firmware. But I will look to see if I have the Low-light AF turned on.

@@cameraz99 how does it work now?

@@Dhruvarorax -- It works much better in Single AF mode, but much worse in Continuous AF mode.

I recently upgraded from an old D40x to the Z50, and I'm having the same frustrations. Firmware 2.20 is better, but still not as good as my old D40. In bright light it's not bad, but in dim light (if I need ISO 4000 or higher) AF simply does not work at all. I have to manually focus. I've even found sometimes that AF will lock (green box + beep) even when the image under the AF point in completely blurry. WTF, Nikon?

That cemetery is indeed one of the most beautiful parks in Budapest :)

That's a smart workaround not to encounter this AF bug issue, thank you!

It sounds like u set the camera on autofocus single point or pinpoint. Is that correct?

Sure, I could use the exposure delay, but that cannot take a series of shots. The reason I don't understand this is that only Nikon does this annoyingly, all the other brands "stick" to the self-timer setting when turned off / on (Fuji maybe one exception).

@@miklosmayerphoto I used to own an X-T30 and this camera did not retain the timer delay setting either. You could combine exposure delay and interval timer shooting if you need more than one exposure. Or simply press the shutter for each exposure you need (with exposure delay). The latter is what I do and that works fine for me.

@@pascalhibon7928 Yes, Fujis do the same way :) To me, it still doesn't make sense - once I set the camera into timer mode, why does it forget it once it goes to idle (after 2mins)? I cannot see any logical reason for that. Not a Nikon Z issue, but entry level Nikon DSLRs forget self-timer even after a single exposure! Not kidding, you have to activate self-timer from shot to shot on Nikon D3xxx series... Of course, if you know this and pay attention while shooting, you can easily get over that. But it's just some small and annoying bug that Nikon people thought it was a good idea...

From the settings on the screen, I see that the “End Time” setting at the bottom is just 3-minutes after the Start Time. Maybe it stopped because it came to the timed-End rather than the series-End? Will it do the same if you set the end time to maybe a few hours after start time? Just an idea.

@@miklosmayerphoto It kind of makes sense from a certain point of view--if someone's using self timer, they don't need the shot Right Now, so it's better to inadvertently take a photo than inadvertently use the self-timer and miss the shot (if someone forgets to unset the self-timer for some reason).

I'm not sure if firmware updates will fix these, otherwise they would have done it already... But I agree it can be frustrating at times

If you mean that flash icon, then it probably means that the camera would like to use flash in that situation. Basically it's a "low light conditions" alert... I don't think you can disable it.

I had that lens for a week last summer, and it worked really well! Maybe I'll make a review of it. With the Z 50 it gives an equivalent focal length of 127 mm, which is perfect for headshots. Honestly, with 85 mm on a full-frame body, I have to go too close to the subject for headshots, so I prefer the 120-135mm range. Anyways, it was working fine on the Z50, AF was fast.

@@miklosmayerphoto thank you so much 🙏🏻

I also figured it out with the help of another commenter... When taking test shots before starting the timelapse sequence, I put the camera into self-timer mode to avoid handshake. And it's the self-timer that messed it up... It's so hilariously easy solution, that it hurts to write down :)

The struggles you refer to may be real, but the F/1.8~2 is not an AF thing. These Z cameras stop down aperture to f/5.6 in general, irrespective of what you set manually. This is to make AF easier, faster, as there is more depth of field and subject recognition becomes easier. Then when you fire a (still) shot, it opens or closes to your set value (or the value that auto exposure deems required). (I am not associated with this video/channel.) Personally, I generally shoot "manual", fixed ISO, fixed white balance (with a Z 7ii) - an old photographer here. As I shoot "raw" only and white balance is just a number in the meta data of the raw file and whatever was used to shoot the image does not change the real image data, "fixed WB" is never an issue - and it removes computational overhead from the camera firing a shot. In a raw file, WB only tells your raw processing software how to open your images. As I always shot "manual" exposure, I have to say that I have recently discovered "highlight-weighted" exposure and if I use that leave the big Sekonic meter at home as you will have zero bleached out pixels - but your images may look underexposed by two to three stops and in Lightroom Classic (LrC) you need to lower the white point (in the Tone Curve) to address that and retain full exposure slider corrections.

I also shoot in Auto ISO many times, I really like how well it can be configured on the Nikons.

Thank you so much! Well, I never thought of that, and you're quite right! Even the entry level Canons, like R10, has that focus stacking option.

You certainly can on the Z50 as well! Custom Setting Menu - Controls - f4 Customize command dials - Change main/sub - Exposure setting On or Off, as you wish. This swaps the two main dial in terms of aperture/shutter speed in Manual mode.

@miklosmayerphoto I knew I could. I had forgot how to find it. Thank you.

True, but you cannot make that take many photos, like the self-timer can.

Yes, for landscape/travel the Nikon Z50 is a great choice! I recommend it with the 2 kit lenses, or with the new 18-140mm Z lens.

It is a great and handy camera for travel and street photography. I just got 2 weeks ago. A very smart camera indeed.

To be honest, sometimes it appears (when I would need it), and sometimes it's gone: when I'm indoors, trying to replicate the problem :))

Thank you for mentioning that. I looked it up and indeed it seems like a good solution for vlogging.

@@miklosmayerphoto Yep - it's perfect for vlogging if that's what you want to do with the camera - works like a charm :)

@@baronsilverton6504 @ Mikios Be warned...i have that attachment and you can't get to the battery door without taking it off. And since you can't power continuously, you might be waiting on a charge...or having to take it off to add a spare battery. But, YMMV...

@@qualitychap521 If your vlog is longer than an hour or so this could be a problem - that said, with the Z50 it is just understood that you need at least 2 batteries - battery life is one of its weaknesses - still for normal vlogging one battery usually would suffice and if you have two you just have to spend a couple minutes changing it out. I did hear that there was a version of this small rig that gave access to the battery but I am not sure if this is true as I already had the other one and never looked into it.

@@baronsilverton6504 Agree. Use mine for streaming work calls. Need a good 6+ hours a day:). So I moved on to a ZV1 for that. Too bad I couldn’t use the Z50.

Joe, thank you for your insight! One thing I recommend you check: I don't know which software you use, but with the recent versions of Lightroom Classic, the color noise slider is often set to 0, whereas in old LrC versions it was set to 25. So it can be that your photos with D7500 have a mild color noise reduction applied, whereas your Z 50 photos have zero. Maybe that's causing the issue - it's worth having a look. Pushing the color noise slider up really effective removes color noise without softening the photo.

It is doubtless that the Nikon D7200 has the best Image sensor after DXO rating... The NIkon Z50 is much better than the Nikon d7200 and with less noise. After DXO the Nikon D7500 is much worse than the Nikon D7200 ...

I would not buy DSLR cameras anymore - the future is definitely mirrorless. DSLRs have advantages but in AF, they cannot compete with today's Eye AF technology.

Z50 - photo Zv e10 - video

Thanks for the tip!

I have this small rig plate and serves as L bracket. It prevents the rotation of camera about the tripod screw. Most of all see yourself. Nikon website sells this plate attached to small spider tripod as selfie kit option. There is no perfect machine. Performance of any machine you buy is related to cost. Nikon designed z50 with compromises.

Hi Ethan. Using OBS, I was able to record 4K video through an HDMI-USB stick, yes. And a quick google search also confirmed it: www.dpreview.com/forums/post/63649809

Because when you're vlogging, you have enough stuff to care about (tripod, camera, sound), and using the phone adds another layer of difficulty. Also, if you use the Snapbridge app for video, the settings are limited.

No, I haven't

Tried, and not much changed - eyes are recognized from further away, but there are still missed shots occasionally, just like with the "old" firmware

@@miklosmayerphoto thanks for the reply!! ❤️

Here it is, thanks for bringing this firmware into my attention: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/eLVyis5yvJvWkac.html

I found this usually connects to bad lighting - if the subject is close, and the lens set to infinity, and the background is bright and sharp already, it often refuses to refocus. With the firmware upgrade it got a bit better. Also, knowing that it does this helps :)

Tried, and not much changed - eyes are recognized from further away, but there are still missed shots occasionally, just like with the "old" firmware

Hey there, I just a released a video, testing the new firmware update for Nikon Z50: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/eLVyis5yvJvWkac.html

I get it that I can use my phone - but in snapbridge app you can only shoot video in P mode, a major drawback. And also, it's one extra hassle - you cannot beat the simplicity of the flipout screen on the Canons

@@miklosmayerphoto You have a point regarding video with Snapbrdge. Are you sure it only allows P mode b/c Nikon website says if you press the P in video mode you can switch to M (manual). However I can't agree with you on the flip out screen. The moment you add a cord it's obstructed, try to flip it hit cables or other things like the tripod base. I'd rather have tilt if I'm behind the camera. 🤷🏾‍♂️ The flip down screen means you can and should eliminate the tripod base plate. I know people complained about, but no one I've come across realizes how cheap it is to rig. I'm talking less than $5 to completely rig a Z50 and get a better experience with a flip down screen that doesn't leave you attached to that dumb baseplate. Options (hot shoe mounting) -Stabilizing hand grip. .....Specifically the "Vello VB-2000 ActionPan Pro Stabilizing Action Grip/Handle" $30 solves the Z50 if mounted from the hot shoe. -Square frame with 1/4" holes. -Top down tripod. -Hand grip w/ 1/4". -Hand grip/straight bracket. -Leica finger loop handgrip (generic cost .25¢) -L-Bracket (slim) -Monopod stick. Leveler. Flip down lcd is never obstructed by anything and you never have to keep a base plate on it. The basic square also doubles as a hand grip steady cam and you can put the base plate on that instead. When you're ready to go, if using a quick release on the hot shoe takes a snap to remove and you have all those holes for flashes, triggers, audio, mics, batteries, led lights, etc.

You're very welcome!

Szia István! A magyar csatornámon is fent van ez a videó, ha gondolod, nézd majd meg (bár hasonló a tartalom). Arrra én is rájöttem azóta, hogy az interval idő magában foglalja a záridőt, végülis így a logikusabb. Viszont közben a magyar videó alá valaki bekommentelte a megoldást, hogy sokszor azért nem indult el nekem a timelapse program, mert időzítős módban voltam (pl. 2 mp késleltetés), és ilyenkor nem engedi a timelapse programot elindulni... A kérdésedre válaszolva: ha van az AF bug, akkor legegyszerűbb rábökni a kijelzőre, és aktiválni az adott részt fókuszálásra.

There are dedicated APS-C lenses in the Nikon Z lineup, not to mention that Sigma and Viltrox also offer primes in this category. Same cannot be said about Canon RF lenses. I think Nikon would be foolish to kill the APS-C lineup, they are just more focused on full-frame, because that's where the bigger money is. Though the Z50 is 4 years old, it's still an extremely competitive camera, and holds up well with newer contenders like Canon R10. So even if Nikon made a new cropsensor mirrorless, the only thing they would be able to add is better AF and a faster speed, that's all.

There should be an option to allow the camera to remember. Going from a Nikon DSLR with it's physical control knob to selecting self-timer mode to having to screw around with menus every time the bloody Zed camera goes to sleep is annoying. They've dumbed down the Zed cameras a bit...

As far as I know, the Zfc is the same "inside" as the Z50.

Hey there, I just a released a video, testing the new firmware update for Nikon Z50: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/eLVyis5yvJvWkac.html

What's exactly the problem you have?

@@miklosmayerphoto when I cleaned the Nikon Z50 lens, then turned the camera back on... but what was written on the screen was "no lens installed, or the lens installed is a non-CPU lens... and after that I couldn't take photos.. 😩

The Auto Area AF with Eye AF is supposed to work even such conditions - it's called eye af because it's supposed to find the eyes. As the eyes are moving, continuous AF is the AF mode you should use - so I was using the correct AF mode. Of course, I can always press OK (takes 2-3 seconds while you realize that "again the camera is doing it"), then the camera finds the face in 2 seconds, and then I have to quit the subject detection mode, which another 1 second extra. Meanwhile Canon and Sony users took many sharp photos... I can live with it, and recent firmware updates made it better. But it's a thing, other people also complained about it. I also shot many portraits with my Canon DSLRs back in those days... And when using very wide aperture I sometimes ended up with slightly out-of-focus photos. So an effectively working Eye AF is a huge plus. BTW, I was using a third party lens, but without an adapter - that Viltrox 85mm lens has a dedicated Nikon Z mount, and is focusing as well as Nikon lenses. Plus this focusing issue comes out with native Nikon lenses as well.

@@miklosmayerphoto You have the camera, I sold mine. At the very bottom I'm going to point out, from NIKON themselves AF system where you possibly went wrong. But you may want to read the rest, b/c you're not the only person who had these problems and I know that I fixed a similar issue before any firmware updates were released. A few others had the same issue w/that lens, updated, proper min. focus dist. back in 21". Using a Z5 in FX mode, better in DX mode. Once the "eye pupil" was lighter, it focused, in your case and there's. Never said, it (the problem) was exclusive to 3rd party lenses, but equiv. native Z lenses AF better on Z cams. I've seen ppl w/this prob. over the yrs. With Z cams, yall (the couple ppl I've seen complain about this) don't have "AF Illuminator On" or use Low-Light AF mode. The "pupil" being dark is more an issue than the background being bright. If the AF is not detecting, (eye or otherwise) it means you're beyond the LV range for the area of the subject(s) or too close. You might think, but I'm outside in daylight. You're outside in flat dark shade, no dapple light, or fill, bg likely hitting +20 LV in spots at F1.8 I agree with you, it should focus better in that situation. Still, it's an entry level camera and you don't have a reflector or fill card. (upsale tactic) I had my Z50 early on, same problem. Went out with a guy who had a Z6, same issue. I'd been so used to turning off AF illuminator in all my cameras the moment I bought them for the last 20yrs. Turned it back on, never had that problem again even inside of min. focus distance, the box would still detect. Also used in a pitch black room with only moon light on the Z50. I always had dapple light or fill, w/back light, so I can't speak specifically to using a flat shadow w/back light (her pupils are dark until she turns to the light, pupil opens, focus). I only suggested the box, b/c you're shooting static portraits. It's an entry level camera and even with it's AF problem, still focuses faster than a $30k Hasselblad H6D. Single point AF still exist and the Z50 has pin point AF. *NIKON* Nikon hides things which is a bit misleading, but I'll point them out. ***Nikon website Autofocus System Hybrid phase-detection/contrast AF >>>>**with AF assist**>ISO 100f/2.0

The assistant light was on, but only activates in very low light, so it didn't activate here. Even if it had activated here, it wouldn't have made a difference, because it's not that strong to compete with daylight. Yes, the girl was in shadow, but that shouldn't stop the camera from focusing on her eye.

Most visszanéztem egy Nemzeti Vágtás fotózásomat - egy majd 2 éves aksival kb. 480 képet és pár videót lőttem egy töltéssel. A képek nagy része sorozat volt, gyors záridővel, de bekapcsolt képstabival. Érdemes egy tartalék aksit venni, és akkor egy napot kibírsz vele. És egy Powerbankkal lehet USB-n keresztül tölteni, amikor épp nem fotózol.

@@miklosmayerphoto Köszönöm a gyors választ!

Don't you, by chance, press the magnify+ button at the right part of the display?

@@miklosmayerphoto yes, that is why this happens, thank you for the reply

Hey Carlota, great to hear from you! ;) Hopefully it'll be fixed one day...

This focusing issue comes out quite rare, only in certain circumstances. AF-A mode is just a mixture of AF-S and AF-C, so I don't think it matters.

I just checked it on my Z50, and in video it only has face tracking AF, not eye tracking AF. I have FW 2.2. Are you sure that the Z fc has eye AF in video?

@@miklosmayerphoto Thanks for checking! Ya the zfc has eye AF in video (If I'm correct for both animal & human faces). I can't paste links here since YT deletes comments with links. You can check out DP review or any other channel that has covered zfc (like Ricci Talks). I was heartbroken to see the zfc has a better AF performance when compared to z50 because the zfc came out like a few months after I bought the z50. I hope future firmware updates bring z50 at par with zfc.

Slightly, but not 100%

I found that the firmware update improved AF quite much. Of course, still not as good as Sony

I was using a prime lens, so it was not an option.

I would definitely buy it again, overall I really like it.

Unfortunately it happens with the native Nikon Z lenses as well.

Press ISO button (and hold it pressed) and rotate the front dial. That will activate or de-activate the Auto ISO.

Yes, definitely. Regardless of its small bugs, it's very easy and intuitive to use.

The Sonys have the advantage in their lens mount: you can have loads of quality third-party manufactured lenses, like from Tamron, Sigma that are designed for the APS-C sensor. Unfortunately, as of now, Nikon only has 3 crop-sensor (DX) lenses.

Im looking at getting a mirrorless camera but torn between 6400 and the z50 both look very good ! Not sure if i should stay nikon as i have 3 f mount lenses i can use with the FTZ converter

Thank you JJ!

That's like asking if I should buy BMW 3 or 5 or 7 series, without telling any background info. If you give information about your budget, what your priorities are, what you will need for, I can help

Ok here we go! I just want to buy a camera for fun, interested on macro or street photography, maybe nightscape photography and occasionally portraits! I'm going to buy it second hand, so the budget is not important l, I can buy the D850 for 1800 USD and the Z5 with 24-200 for 1600 USD, also the full kit of Z50 for 1200 USD, but I just want to take pictures! Good pictures ! I never have a camera before but I have learn a lot of photography, and now I need my first camera! So this is why I'm asking for this 3 cameras!

Not that I know of

I totally get you! At 4:55 I say the exact same thing: when I'm behind the camera and taking photos, I prefer this kind of mechanism over the flipout mechanism. It's indeed easier (and faster) to use, and levelling the shot is also easier.

Yeah I get annoyed with Hybrid shooters wanting a flip out screens; just weakens the design. Tilt screen like on my old D750 & Z5 is the best!

No, on Canons, Sonys, you don't have to turn off live preview, even with bright background... So why should I do it on a Nikon? Of course, everything has a workaround, but they can still be annoying, especially if you see that other brands do it effortlessly.

Thanks! I haven't tried that yet

In general, you should not be using that fast shutter speeds anyway when shooting a video, because it will have a strange, "choppy" feeling and not smoothly flowing. With video, shutter speed should be 2x or max 4x the frame rate for a nice footage. For example, with 24 fps, 1/50, or 1/100. In broad sunlight that's hard to achieve, expecially with wide aperture, that's why videographers often use ND filters.

@@miklosmayerphoto ,Thank you, I know this information that you need to use nd filters. My problem is different - it turns out that other users have a shutter speed of 1 \ 4000 in video mode, but I have 1 \ 2000 flashing and it doesn’t get shorter. Where can I find the settings on Nikon z50 so that in aperture mode the shutter speed works automatically up to 1 \ 4000?

@@MsDubovich I don't think you can go shorter than that, there's no setting for it. the only way around this is to stop down the lens

@@miklosmayerphoto, This situation causes resentment, there are no such restrictions on other cameras in this price range. And spending time on nd filters is not mine, I like photography more.

​@@MsDubovich The solution to this problem is not faster shutter speeds, but ND filters. You don't need an expensive one.

True, but many things not available through the app. Moreover, with the newest iOS, the app doesn't even launch...

Every camera has annoying bugs, I can immediately start listing that for Sony and Canon as well :)

Thanks :)

Hello. I will like to help to fix the flipdown screen issue. You have to go to configuration menu then tap self-portrait and switch from on to off. That will allow you to have all control of the bottoms and screen in self-portrait mode.

Oh, thanks for the tip! I didn't realize that! But in this case the 2 second delay also gets turned off, right?

@@miklosmayerphoto You're very welcome. ¡Yeah! The 2 second delay goes off also.