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@@TheCarPassionChannel look you won

@@dooflydetailguuy4349 yeah I've been reporting those comments all day

@@TheCarPassionChannel I will find them in the afterlife and punish them for you.

But you gotta drop in the 2.5 into the NC

Tech itch - feel the pressure drop!

🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣I find this hilarious cause I have no room to talk

Okay, but like, what’s more fun? A power modification, or maintenance?

Lmao can you not pull the bulb?

​@@e30gangsta yup just pull it for free.

@@e30gangsta Putting a resistor will fool the car into thinking there are airbags and will make the passenger airbag work. If you just pull the bulb it deactivates all airbags. So it works but doesn't exactly behave the same way, you choose what you want.

Watching this in the bathroom at work 🤣

Sound like vtec Honda ;-)

😭

Well it would be way to cold for the water to evaporate so probably a bad idea to inject at the same point...

I’m pretty sure the stock rods and pistons would be having a bad time long before the combustion temperatures become the limiting factor. If it was a built motor being fed hot turbo or supercharger boost, then you could absolutely get more power out of meth injection, but nitrous is kind of the opposite in that it inherently causes charge cooling because of the pressure drop that happens when it’s released from a thousand psi bottle into the atmosphere. You saw how Craig’s windshield cracked from how cold the purge was, or the screenshot of his intake temperatures. The primary reason nitrous struggles to make as much horsepower as other power adders on the same motor is because of the stress caused by the abrupt torque spike you saw on George’s dyno charts. You just can’t tune the same amount of peak power instantly into a motor and have it survive as you can by gradually increasing boost to a specific pressure. This problem can be somewhat remedied by a progressive nitrous controller which wasn’t mentioned in the video, but if you’re at the point of installing a multistage nitrous kit it might be easier and cheaper to just boost it. Plus you don’t have to worry about filling a bottle constantly. Water meth is fantastic, but if you don’t have the high combustion and intake temps to need it, you’re just losing power from the air displaced by it. Keep it simple or however that saying goes

Stock pumps flow enough for 300whp+

BP4W>BPZ3(vvt)

@@miatafied depends on what your trying to build. The BP4W is a great start for higher horsepower builds. But if you dont plan on building a dragster and want a fun(but still pretty darn fast)250whp street car and canyon carver, BPZ3 all the way. The BPZ3 will require a bit more effort to tune with VVT but its worth it as the BPZ3's VVT can put out maximum torque at low, mid and high RPMs with no compromise or sacrifice if you tune the VVT with an aftermarket ecu. Unlike the BP4W, where you can only tune for your maximum torque to be up high while sacrificing down low or vise versa. Also, the BPZ3 has higher compression which isnt ideal for high whp builds from its stock internals but at the target of 250whp and under you will be perfectly fine and in addition the higher compression results in a more responsive and revvy engine. All-in-all. If your goal is 250whp, the BPZ3 will be much more fun to drive. But if you want more, the BP4W would be a better start.

@@jrod1577 at 400hp I’ve gained maybe 10-15lb/ft in the midrange. The gain is negligible and I think the BP4W flows a bit better. It’s definitely better than the BP05 head tho so either way NB engine is the way to go. But overall it’s generally accepted that the BP4W is better. But you’re not wrong about the higher compression being beneficial on an unopened motor. Especially if you run e85. I run e85 on a BPZ3 but with NA 9:1 cast pistons

@@miatafied im not sure if the VVT acts as some sort of bottle neck after a certain power point but Greg Peters actually has a youtube video and an article on testing out different timings and then showing how the VVT actually gained around 15ft/lbs down low and up top on his N/A NB with pretty minimal mods. Now I havent seen any other data yet to prove the next statement but after that he said the percentage gain should grow to a higher hp and torque gain with boost. That makes sense but its just a theory untill proven and not many like to mess with VVT BP's but there seems to be an increased interest in them so someone out there might have some data.

@@jrod1577 15lb/ft is about what you should expect. VVT advances the intake cam from about 3000rpm to about 5000rpm. So in that range you will see about 15lb/ft increase. On my 400hp car after months of tinkering I was not able to gain any more than that. After 5000rpm any advance of the intake cam causes HUGE losses in power and torque, so you retard it back to 0 from 5000-redline. So literally you will see a 15lb/ft increase from 3000-5000 rpm, give or take. Until oil is warm it needs to be turned off because oil pressure is so high that it goes crazy. Once oil reaches a set temp vvt turns on but sometimes it does weird stuff randomly so i just leave it off. My turbo makes 24psi at 3500rpm so if I want 15lb/ft more torque ill just add 2 degrees of timing in that area and not have to worry about the wonkyness. In mine (and most peoples) opinon the BP4W is the better route, then VVT, then BP05, then 1.6

Yep that's about the same experience I was having

@@TheCarPassionChannel love the projects. I had this same experience on my first nitrous car in 2003. The fun never goes away.

It was an empty case 😊

A lot 😂

A big green explosion if Johnny Tran and the gang decide to shoot up your car.

the only thing I can think of is nos guys spraying 150+ shot usually run two separate tunes. one for drivability and one for the sauce

6-Speed + 4.3 😁

@@TheCarPassionChannel Any specific reason to choose the shortest setup possible? lol

@@nicolas6820 Just best for low power, IMO. Easier to stay closest to peak HP, easier to be in the 'perfect' gear for any turn, etc. But the gearing is extremely short.