To see a great video on how to change a tire the traditional way and "Never Struggle Again " watch this video kzfaq.info/get/bejne/r96Kn5yhtrXKY3U.html

O.K people listen up. If your tube comes with 2 nuts (e.g Vee Rubber tubes) the bottom nut is to hold the valve to the actual tube, do not unscrew or remove this nut, it stays under the rim. If your tube only comes with 1 nut (e.g Michelin tubes) then your valve if fixed to the tube in the manufacturing process so does not need a nut under the rim. The external nut does NOT screw down to the rim! That would put unwanted pressure pulling up on the valve stem it needs to be able to move if your tyre slips. The purpose of the valve stem nut on any tube is to assist in installation and inflation to stops the valve from pushing back into the hole on the rim and it also used to help straighten the valve after having the tire slip, Jay Clark has a good video on this. Once it is mounted and aired up you have a few options, take the nut off completely, screw it up to the cap so you have it ready to use when you need although it is a pain to keep screwing it down every time you check pressures. I was a my local Husky dealer yesterday and noticed that they do not come with the valve nut anymore and I'm going to assume the same with KTM. Or you can just keep doing whatever you want, screw the nut down to the rim and be happy.

great vid! some more tips and reasons why... for each stem nut option shown, you're leaving gaps for sand to get inside the tire which can cause a flat. even with the nut tight on the rim, sand can get in because the rim face is not square. as for the first nut on the tube stem, i leave that one there to protect the tube from the hole in the rim. once the tire swap is complete, the trick is to put a bead of silicon around the base of the stem to seal it at the rim. let the silicon get up the stem threads about 3/8". now spin the single stem nut down to 1/4" away from the rim, or just past where it gets in the way of the stem cap. so like 1mm lower than the cap. the silicon should be mushing a bit from the nut and be sealing well at the rim. this not only keeps sand out, it allows the stem to tell you if the tire is slipping on the rim, because the stem can still move with the tube. the nut will stay-put due to the sealant. the rim lock nut also needs silicon under it to keep out mud etc. it's the same reason we duct tape the back side of the spokes, which also keeps broken spoke ends from moving. it's smart to rotate the tire on the rim just before seating the bead to set the tube stem at a 25 degree angle. it will straighten up after a few rides as the tire breaks in properly, but it's fine if it stays at that angle. will give it room to slip without ripping the stem from the tube if air pressure is later set lower for a traction situation. obviously the stem lean direction is determined by how the forward drive on the rim leaves the tire behind ever so slightly. if you later see the stem angle change, you know you need to deal with a low pressure issue or a broken rim lock. putting the talcum powder inside the tire and rotating the warm dry tire will evenly coat the inside. then dump out the powder so it won't ball up later. do the same to the tube before putting it in, as he showed. this way there is no loose powder. it also helps keep the bead clean and ready for installation (no powder sticking to the bead lube). WD40 is good for rubber, and can also have a helpful vulcanizing effect (you can actually glue grips to handlebars using only WD40, if its only a light dusting). thus i think it's better to use WD40 as a bead lube than tire grease or tire lube. it evaporates into the rubber and will not cause rim slip like rubber grease can. it still works great to make installation easy. spray it on the bead right before you lay the tire on the rim, then just before you seat the beads with air. i've done all this for decades and never have tube or tire issues... just wear out the knobbies.

I didn't read all of the comments below but I know they say what I'm about to say. I'm on KZfaq viewing vids about the No Mar machine I'm about to use, and I found this video. Absolutely the best edited video I've seen so far, and I hit the subscribe button at lightning speed.

Great Video. I like the nut backed up to the cap so that I can see if the tire has spun on the wheel. i can then address it before any damage. With the nut run tight, and the valve stem held rigid, the first indication of a spinning or spun tire is a torn tube.

love how you make your vids man and this one is just as good as any you have done....slick editing and sound effects to go with it.You got my thumbs man and keep safe

The box that Michelin inner tubes are packaged in, clearly show both nuts for the valve stem on the outside with the domed washer on the inside..

Great video. Quick. Concise. Love to see it!

Great vid and many thanx, too, to some of the commetators to explain what they do why. so everyone is invided to find out the best solution. I like a lot the hints of yukon ("to put a bead of silicon around the base of the stem") and kingkire ("The external nut does NOT screw down to the rim! That would put unwanted pressure pulling up on the valve stem it needs to be able to move if your tyre slips"). So many helpful ideas. I wish everybody a Happy New Year 2024!!! KR Henry

What a great video! Well edited! Thank you!

Great vid and comments. Tip: save the stems from old tubes and use them for the plastic fuel can vent hack.

You always make the best videos!

I have a tip for you that I do when putting my front wheel on my 2019 YZ250 2-stroke.I don't know why, but there are no spacers for up-side-down forks that will keep the legs parallel as you tighten the front axle. I have seen 2 kinds of vids that claim to "align the forks". 1) Wheel of the ground, one pinch clamp loose, spin the wheel and hit the front brake. "See the fork end move on the axle? It is centered. Tighten the clamp." Yea, mine was still about .025" out of parallel. 2). "With one axle pinch clamp loose, grab the front brake and pump the forks up and down". I did not measure how far that was off. For that YZ250, I simply measured center to center on a triple clamp, subtracted one diameter of the lower slider tubes, and made a simple gauge that will get the fork legs +/- .001" in parallel, (for best sliding action. I actually had to go up one spring stiffness after freeing up the forks). All I did was use a 1" diameter aluminum rod stock, faced off each end on my lathe to 5.661" long, (the measured distance between the legs with my bike). With the wheel off the ground, and one axle pinch clamp loose, (not the brake side), I put that rod between the legs as low as possible, (through my front brake disk), and tape the fork over with a light rubber mallet until the rod is tight between the legs, (and straight). Tighten the last axle clamp, and carefully wiggle the rod out of there. Now I know it is right for the forks to work as freely as possible, probably with less enteral bushing wear.

I changed a lot of tires in the backyard on a milk crate, (and bloodied a lot of knuckles), when I was a racing MX in my younger days. I don't know why, but I always pinched a tube when using tire irons, but never did using big flat head screw drivers. As far as marring the rim? I am glad the rims were not color anodized back then. :)

I can tell your proud of that little edit you did there in the beginning lol. good video

Fantastic video!

I rode a Yamaha TT600N for a few years, I left the tube lock nut and cap off the outside of the wheel. Even with 2 new rim locks I had the tire twist on the rim under hard use. Before leaving the nut and cap off I had the valve stem rip out of the tube a few times. With no nut or cap the stem would pull into the wheel. Remove one side of the tire and pull the valve stem back into place. Save me a few flats.

Dig the channel. Short n sweet no BS

Underrated channel! So glad I found this.

Earned my sub ....thank you for another great vid..

Thanks, great video!

The spin dry takes practice so it does not run away. I use a tube cap with a rubber motorcycle valve stem grommet (what ever colour I can get to match the bike) which fits around the valve stem and up against the rim to help keep dirt out but lets the valve stem / tube move.

mine has a metal washer and 2 nuts.. so i make sure 1 nut under rim isnt too tight to the tube.. then outside rim nut holds to it tight! then i used glow in dark valve stem cap ! i used to use automatic pressure read caps.. but they slow leak cause always keeps stem depressed.. so i threw away the 32 green..20lbs yellow.. empty red ..valve stem auto read caps.

The lock nut should only be used to hold the valve stem for initial inflation. After that, throw it away. It should never be locked down on the rim when the bike is in use. It is not at all uncommon for the tube to "walk" inside the tire (at the low pressures dirt bikes use), and if the valve stem is tightly locked in place, the tube will tear at the base. If you're worried about dirt entry there are a variety of little rubber seals you can buy. I go through tires so fast that dirt entry never becomes an issue for me.

One lock nut on the outside and cap. Because that's what I was told when I first learned. Lol

I have got to figure out how to edit better lol Great JOB Love this one

I actually found a pdf from continental moto showing how it's supposed to be installed. From the pdf: "Before mounting the tube, place the washer on the valve stem. After mounting lock both nuts together with a space of about 5mm (0.2") above the rim. This type of mounting ensures, that on the one hand the valve isheld in position for inflation, but on the other hand it does not tear off thetube in case the tire and tube rotate slightly in the rim." But I guess rim locks help a lot in keeping the tire and tube from rotating on the rim so probably doesn't really matter too much of you're using rim locks. A couple things I do differently, I put the powder in the tire and also put just enough air in the tube before spooning on the tire so as to not get a pinch flat as easily.

Here in the UK and many years ago I remember a bike owned by my friend failed it's annual roadworthiness test (known as an MOT over here), because the valve outer lock nut was missing..... I don't know if things have changed or not. Of note, my 2020 RE Trials 500 came with valve outer lock nuts nipped down to the rim. . It makes sense though to leave some slack in the system though. Dunno what the answer is!

Just mu opinion and what I did/do. Its very different depending upon use, when I did Trials riding in the 70s on an OSSA MAR 6 psi was common so you had two rim locks and never tighted the valve nut. After each meet there was alot of tube creep. In my Scramble ( motoX) competion days on a 250 CZ like now we only had the one rim lock but rarely suffered from any creep.... higher tyre pressure. But hard ruts could cause slight creep so left 1/8th loose. All my tubed road bikes higher tyre pressure with no chance of creep unless poorly maintained psi . So valve nut to the rim but just finger tight. Thats what I did . Currently got a Royal Enfield Classic 350 so tubed wheels and valve nuts finger tight.

I pulled off the factory tire from two vintage Hondas, both locknuts were on the outside. I believe the dimpled washer is supposed to be pulled into the rim. My friend who is a moto mechanic swears by one nut on either side of the rim. Why? he says its never let him down. 🤷🤷 I have had either setup on many bikes, I dont think I would run with no locknut though.

Awesome video You would think that a lockout inside the rim would create a localized pressure point, kyle

Good stuff! Anyone recommend a tire balancer?

I ride old motorcycles. The lock nut was always tight. Maybe with high output hp engines it might spin the tube . Thanks .

Its one nut against the washer that goes on the inner tube and one on the outside of the rim. Be sure to use baby powder on the inside of the tyre and the tube, this will keep the friction away and tube from spinning insidr.

why didn't you use the mount bar to install the tire? I don't know this machine, so just a question

The last nut on the upper position with the cap is correct. Before, I used to have my nut adjusted down with the cap and once I was riding with my bike, i hit a huge nail that punctured my rear tire and the valve got damage so bag it bent and rendered unusable because of the nut below locking into place in the rims.

what do you use in the spray bottle

I used to tighten mine together. Not anymore! I ripped 2 valve stems out in a few months! Both front and rear! (factory set tight) on new bike! Now i run mine loose. Have not had a problem since. On this was a fairly low powered electric dirtbike! (talaria sting). But they also have NO tire lock!!!!!!

So what do you do with the nuts?

مساء الفل 🌹🌹🌹 والجمال 🌺 والورود الله

🤘🏻

what if you have tubliss?

There should not be a nut on the stem on the inside of the rim. The metal base of the valve stem is curved for a reason; it fits nicely into the curve of the rim. For the outside....Buy a set of rubber valve stem grommets ($3-4). Install the rubber grommet over the valve stem and seat to the rim. This helps to keep dirt out of the hole and provides a "rubber-mount" so the stem can move slightly in the hole and prevents the stem from tearing. Install one nut and run it down to the grommet, finger tight. Install the cap.

Opinions are like balls, everyone has their own...

Not a lip reader, but eyes OK

If you use tyre shine or silicone spray on the tube lil but if air you cooking with gas Also I reckon it goes one nut under the rim one on top but not tight so it lets it move around a tad

Would this work on ATV tires with the right attachments? We have not only a street bike (tourer with tubeless), adventure bike and dirt bikes with tubed tires, but a 700xx Honda sport quad which I'll soon have to replace tires. In addition to saving lots of time from doing it myself, or of course paying a dealer at $70/tire CAD (that must be on the high side as another is $35/tire), if it saves a few pinched tubes and/or damaged rims it would pay for itself even sooner.

Is it really necessary to remove the valve stem core? I didn't and it came off (with difficulty), well one side so far and the tube's still in there, but I don't have the tool yet to remove the core. One shop told me they never replace the cores, which I thought may be one reason, but wouldn't pressing on the pin in the middle release all the air? Or enough of it?