Bro you explain stuff perfect and my 72 Buick Skylark literally started bogging out at 30 miles an hour like it was getting too much fuel what's your thoughts Could It Be Me screwing with the front needle adjustment too much out of whack or timing too far advanced

@@TorresFord thats awesome!

people overcomplicate everything.... sometimes intentionally, sometimes people are taught by, well, not every dr is good dr, not every mechanic is good mechanic, every teacher is not there because they love to teach, most teachers or dr's or lawyers or mechanics are just there for a pay check, and they only know enough to get by......... a big help was, my auto teacher in high school made us draw every part. it didnt have to be to scale, but it had to work, every jet passage or every hydro passage on a master, what ever it was, every bearing every ring it had to work.

0

RIcky Rick my pleasure!

I man if i can figure out exactly what I did right with this one video that almost carries the whole channel I could quit my job lmao

@10xH . A lot of guys DIY watch videos to get an idea how tough it will be. I'm not good at diagnostics so when you showed and explaind all the things that could be bad, I t helps with that decision. Plus the calm and methodical way you presented yourself.

sweet! i restored a 63 case few years back!

lol my great grandpa snuck in here from Canada as a flying trapeze in the circus, they should have built a wall. buahhhhh. Im not left or right, all I can say is, bush got elected said he was gonna build an electric fence, the only place they didnt do the fence and monitor system was in the only two places you could actually swim across the river..... Then trump in 2002 on Tv was asked why he dropped out the race, he said he wasn't gonna beat bush. he was asked when will we finally have a Libertarian president, he said when their ready for me. and I quote "George bush went on Fox News, said he was gonna build a fence, got all the redneck votes, so im gonna go on fox as a republican and say im going to build a wall". sheeple!

65 corvair how do I test the voltage regulater ?

how did it go and what was it?

You to to you and yours!

Got the one on pertronix and vacuum gauge power tuning is part two. A vacuume gauge will.tell.you most mechanical issues. The next one in putting out is on a leak down test. A leak down test.is the only way to pinpoint / prove any mechanical issue before proceeding and not just guessing but nobody wants to take the time! But it's fool proof! Even times in shops you would tell the customer it is usually this part but it's a gamble on you if we don't do a leak down test first, and 9 out of ten say no problem just change it and if it don't work well teat it????? All you can do is suggest the right way, if they think they know best or have a horseshoe up their bum, great more money for me lo!

Logic and reason, its actually easier than just going through motions and collecting a pay check, and a lot less frustrating lmao

most people are taught how to do their job, not how it actually works.

thanks, this channel started as me setting strait some shit talk, and I found it fun, yet this video, I almost deleted, and so far its still my biggest hit, lmao! I been hanging in here on a thread, but i do have a shit ton and a half of videos on the editing block ready to dump on youtube steady for a while, finally found the time, well, here goes nothing... thanks again!

with logic devices yes, now if I can just figure people out i just might make a couple bucks one of these days lol

some people have luck and guess right 9 out of 10, like that one guy you know that some how wins every damn raftle or contest lmao, and some of us what can fuck up will fuck up so im quick to start right off with a vacume gauge then a full mechanical leakdown to pinpoint any issues found, then and or a full eletrical leak down... most the time.... id say even if you hit 9 out of ten, twenty miniuts of fiddeling on all 10 is less time and money wasted than the one free repair that was unnessary based on false diagnosis!

Well if your just changing parts without testing your next part is your crank or cam position sensor. It won’t spark if it’s bad

Yeah that deodorant is ok

see I missed that, I thought if you never do stupid shit you never build a tolerance to pain to continue doing stupid shit lmao

Jonathan Clark

I got a 1990 Dodge with a V6 cranks no spark

whats next on the truck!

just sharing my research Thank You !!

Have to keep Slepnar on the road, or off! ha!

close buahhhh

Thank you! I will be adding a lot more soon, I have a pile of them lmao.... I finally have some time carved out !

You too! I will have a lot more soon, got tied up paying bills lol

second vid late response!!!!

www.ironhammer.info/ih.html here are links to jus about all youll need to know IH wise. It helps to look at the diagrams and what have you...

life happens!!!

i love to learn

This seems to be a huge problem with the rubbing blocks on new points, better off new old stock... I love them things! I was gonna drop a Cleveland in my 80 ranger b4 I found my scout!

I hack it lmao

thank you, about to do a lot more

stay tuned!

I like him too and he's not even my type. He sounds like a clever dude.

@@shannonsinderson7417 If the ladies don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy... ;)

almost out of duct tape!

i been all 48 on the main land, while i did apreciate it dead winter, that humidity makes every bone in my body ache lol

Thanks, and the install is in the next video, I need to put a "card" link..... Im getting ready to put my 71 metro back together next....

I am all about points, nothing wrong with points, I prefer points, this is just what my broke behind had on the shelf when my distributor wore out. the easy answer, electronic ignition is exactly like points, except, the points do not contact. they arc at a very low volt/amp, not enough to get the coil to trigger the spark, so it has a little capacitor to step up the voltage. nothing has changed in cars in 50 years (other than vvt) its all the same except us mechanics have been replaced with computers, and 9$ an hour parts changers lol and a capacitor is triggered

thanks!

The second module is a vacuum sensor to control timing advance based on manifold pressure...

they made the 351 Cleveland down under for a while after they stopped making them here

Would you believe someone just stepped on it, that’s what I get for doing favors lol. What pissed me off, is radio shack claimed bankruptcy. That means they don’t have to pay their debts, yet they tried to come after me for the remaining balance on my RadioShack card! Wait a minute, RadioShack falters on debt but says I owe them still. Ha! Cold day in hell! I do miss being able to say put it on my account, still till they close, no card needed, just put it on my account....

I have an old radio shack battery tester that barely works, and you have a new subscriber for putting out the exact video i needed!

does the coil have power when on? A 65 will have 2 wires for the coil, one is for starting only at 12v, and one is for run at 9v......

:)

logic works lol

so, right off the bat, think your meter is bad, check the battery... 19volts... that or you have dual batteries wired in series on accident... you should never get more than like 10 volts it has a big resistor to drop it down.. when you are cranking it over, it bypasses the resistor and gives it a straight 14 ish volts... for cranking, when not cranking it saves the points to run at 9.6 volts... the sure test, one end of volt meter to ground, and trace the circuit top down... probe the wire b4 and aft every switch or connector, and if the voltage is lower after any connection than b4 it, its a bad connection... just jump the coil straight to the battery and see if you got spark then, see if the coil powers up now, this will save you all day tracing wires if its just a bad coil. should be able to short the neg lead of coil to ground real fast zap, make it spark.... points can be bad new now days and its a 50 50 shot!!! so discharging the coil manually will be the easy test... Get that mean cougar back on the road!!!

your coils are burning out? i would check your wires. is the coil still getting power when its off. see the system is simple. a key sends power to coil in on position through a resistor wire or a ballast resistor, giving the coil 9 volts. when starting a second wire with out a resistor gives the coil full 12 volts. or you just get straight 12 when its on if its hei. so coil has power. points or pickup tells coil to dump coil dumps charge to what ever plug the rotor is pointing at. so as you say, what could be burning up a coil. bad ground? bad plug wires? is if running on all 8? spark returning with out jumping the gap like gap closed or carboned.....

ok, on a points distributor, it runs off of 9.6 volts. you know how on the starter relay their is the bypass wire only on cars w/ points distributors. well that will bypass the resistor and give full 12.6 volts to the coil, only when cranking. once its running it goes through resistor again. you must have a bad ballast resistor circuit , sounds like someone messed with it. also, you should be reading 9.6 and 12.6 to 14.6... not 8 and 12. so also check your meter is calibrated, your battery is good, and your alt is working, and you dont have any corrosion creating a false load on the switch or relay or any of the connectors. I will put a video out on electrical leakdown test, but your coil should be getting 9.6 volts except when you are trying to start it. this is because if it ran at full voltage all the time, it would burn up the points, most of the wear on your points happens when your cranking then runs at a safe 9volts... it actually winds up making about the same spark because its still the same amperage, remember, its high amps that can kill you not volts... if you check my webpage in the IH section, its going to be universal information on most engines and wires, other than the colors and firing order... www.ironhammer.info/ih.html , and the more I think about it, Im not sure a 78 would still have points, so even weirder... their should be no resistor at all unless you have a points distributor. its possible it has some fancy dual points distributor. points are better, they just require regular maintenance..

I like it simple lol

welcome!

Points and a control module? If it’s a points distributor wired to a non points system.... the points distributors have a resistor that is bypassed only when starting. It runs off 9.6 volts otherwise, not 12

Capt. Mike Allen I have the same question as well

2:13

I just try to remove the over-complications! Turn life itself into a chopper bobber or a rat rod and everything makes sense Ha!

Vinnis in the next video there is even more on it on Petronius upgrade

Yeah just get a 5$ test light and see if it’s getting power

here schematron.org/1987-dodge-d150-wiring-diagram.html you dont have a balast resistor thats for points, the extra wire is a low oil pressure kill switch. so if the oil light is on the distributor wont fire.....

Ahh, well, I dont think you would have points on an 83. if so, a points distributor has a resistor to run at 9.6 volts so you dont burn the points up. It also has a bypass wire, so when you are cranking it bypasses the resistor to run a full 14.6 volts until it until it starts, but you should have a magnetic pickup. and should not have the resistor or bypass. I go over that in my video kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ZraPpLhorpjSZIU.html... you either have a prestolite style or a brain box style where the circuit board is mounted outside the distributor and they go bad...

@@TEN-TIMES-HARDER well I had Mallory coil and Mallory dist. And also note there is no icm below the washer box on the driver fender. Not sure what that's about. Replaced with a cell coil and own dist dist cap and rotor. Getting 12 volts to coil and it's pulsing properly but still not getting fire from top of coil. Bypassed the resistor and I still can't figure this out.

well, capacitor discharge ignition has a brain box or it is mounted under the plate. thats why i show vid on installing a pertronix igniter in a prestolite distributor. or non-points mallory have the same thing like in that vid. here is how it works. under the rotor. their is a lobed wheel. and a magnetic pickup. (like a crank position sensor for new cars) when the lobe gets close to the pickup, the magnetic field is disrupted. This triggers the brain then, amplifies it with transistors/capacitors and sends signal to the coil to dump the spark, then its sent through what ever wire the rotor is pointing at under the cap. so if the circuit board is bad or the pickup is bad, it dont know to send a spark, just like if your points where not contacting....

well you have a bad distributor

I need to do a lot more lijke this

Ohio Super Scout Nationals...

The relay bypass, the coil has a resistor and it’s only 9.6 volts. It gets a full 12.6 volts on crank only . This saves the points from burning up too fast. So this is all related to the r and s terminals on your starter relay.

Ok , could have crossed paths then, awesome! Yeah I drove a tractor all last year, 48 States, so it’s a different concept of almost there lol I have a new video on CB almost ready, and a huge rant on the industry and show how to get out of contracts and manhandle a DM lol I liked driving a truck, but it is far to stressful to work 100 hours a week and be treated like a disposable endebchered servant lol and Working for a dispatcher was worse lol oh I’m getting fired up thinking about it lol man back in the day it would have been sweet, You can say that about most jobs today, when it’s a big corporation your just a number, and the little guys are trying every shady thing they can think of to stay above water, but yeah, even the big company had me cheating the ELD and had me running without sleep most the time and That’s my favorite part of the day lolI can go on and on but honestly I’ll stick with the mechanics of it, Smart Trucking on KZfaq is awesome and every trucker should subscribe! Right before Operation black and blue was the last I ever drove... If I win the lotto I would take a loss to put them big guys under, I got out of it but a lot of people don’t understand the law and feel trapped, even though their contracts get tossed out every time, the other comanies still have to pay a lawyer to fight it so they won’t hire you. And it’s not going to change because truckers are dropping like flys because of the new regulations and how we can’t struke anymore, deregulation, woo woo , and they don’t care because they just keep bring in more work visas from places where they think its great because they are escaping horrible dictatorships and what have you. And we would do it to if they let us! So can’t blame them, but as long as someone will work for free, why would they pay us to do it! their is NO shortage of truck drivers, their is a shortag on truck drivers wages! Did you know that only one third of 18-65 able bodied Americans work and pay taxes! That means a third of us have to work here times as long for the same pay, while 2/3 live better than most of us for free! Can’t we just let the other 2/3 of able to work Americans work part of our hours instead of us working them hours and handing the pay away! Everybody wants pride nobody wants a handout. You don’t appreciate something you didn’t earn! And what the problem really is, money talks! Want to change the world stop looking to the politicians, look to yourselves, and research who owns the profits from the products you CHOOSE to purchase, and what they do with that money! Remember also, if you don’t buy a crappy product, they will make a better one, or they don’t get your money! And look, I am Eric the wrench, I buy American tools. The best I can find. Not that I don’t own some great foreign tools, but they are not cheaper, and great quality, but we really only import stuff if it’s cheaper or we don’t have it. Because if you put the same tool next to each other on the shelf, I’m buying the one made here, you know why, because even if it cost more, I am not just buying a tool, I am buying a piece of America! And that money is putting a fellow Americans kids through school and food on their plates, and it buys them a bright future so they don’t have to live in a communists nightmare, or have to work like a dog just to live in poverty! You see Everywhere you go the people with the money only pay as much as they have to to keep you at work. Here we forms a huge Union, an American Union. Where all of us said we will not be wage slaves any more. Look what our founders did in 1776. You can’t even boycott a product! Stop blaming left or right they are the same! As long as it is we the people, point that finger in the mirror! Keep the shiny side up!

I have usually have my ears on channel 19, give me a shout next time

buahhhhhhhhh

yep! unless the battery imnyour meter is low l,ao

the 4 banger here has a 3 ohm coil, the 8 has 1.6ohm across terminals, the main windings, the from post to main plug wire, should read 10.5, 8.5 is low like the coil windings coating failed, and its skipping or shorting past some of the coil...

The coil is charged like a capacitor right, straight 12-14volts. goes to the coil. unless its points then it gets 9.6v! As soon as it can ground out, and complete the circuit, it does. It does this through the cap and rotor and goes to what ever plug wire its pointing at.

Was it the pick up

im on my way to work, but i answered that in the comments already...

yeah, them cylinders dont fire L! first try new plugs in them holes, try new wires or switching wires to see if the misfire changes places and then its just the wires. but you might have a bad head, stuck or dirty valves, bad rings yul need to run at least a compression or a leakdown test. I guess on the cheap, you can put a few drops of oil in them 2 holes and if they fire you got bad rings. if its your ride to work like it was for me last time that happened, i made it through half a year running straight 50 weight oil or lucass additive wich is basically gear oil ( I use hyperlube never luccass, only the luccass trans fix, that shit , I once drove home a 50$ caravan listed dont move. lasted a year, people where chasing me saying they changed their mind and dont want to sell, ha, i was like you owe me for a transmission then lol)

yes so if power went to the body it had to get back to the neg terminal. this means the shortest easiest path. so if it went through the body it had to go through the ground strap that goes from engine to the firewall, through the engine, then to the negative cable to the battery.... so if the ground strap to the cab or body were corroded or missing it may have just went home backwards through the ignition switch, or the coil / distributor, frys computers even with a good ground half the time... So yes you can just hook it up straight to battery to test it and jump the starter, this will not be a problem, points last longer at 9 volts and its all they need, they still like 12 to start, thats why the resistor. if you dont have points you need to remove the resistor btw... so yeah check the ignition switch and jump it....

I just get the good one, Very possible your distributor bearings are loose! see if you can wiggle the shaft, also are they points? there are several other issues that can be happening if their points...

I will find it in the comments later, I answer this question a lot, have to run to work now, the crank position sensor is not inside a distributor its on the block by the cam shaft end, same process as in the video , just spread out

Stephen Kacin, all single coil v8 the same

Thank you Erik, but i dont know what they are? 1.5 primary, 8,000 secondary?

Thanks Erik. My 73 Galaxie is showing no spark to or from the coil. Seems to be intermittent. Any ideas where to go on this gremlin? This is coil # 3.

just so you know in case you havent figured it out yet. ford doesnt make a 400 ci engine galaxies most of the time have 390 engines. 400 is a gm engine.

what engine

I try ;)

@@TEN-TIMES-HARDER yeah i put a new distributor in my Ford F-150 1977 and I crushed it because I watched your video. Get'er done. Yeah you help me get through that bullshit of second guessing it.

Their is a film of the scout show in 2017 on the page as well, I have the METRO and more scout vids to upload, but I do need another Scout, She was my daily driver for 5 years, then right after I installed the frame x brace and the roll bar, I got run off the highway a few months ago in a snow storm. barrel flip in to the ditch. truck was totaled, id be dead if not for the simple terra bar from SSS! I find another, have lots of parts and a 392 waiting for the right Scout.

@@TEN-TIMES-HARDER I do need badly a set of vacuum wiper motor rebuild kits. I will certainly look for those videos.

@@whatyaworkingontoday5018 www.ironhammer.info/IHOR.html

@@TEN-TIMES-HARDER what year scout ya looking for? There are some here in Tulare county, California I also know of some in Lancaster. Travelers, Travel all, Scout II, what your poison?

@@TEN-TIMES-HARDER also I have a buddy looking for a quad cab if you know of one.

so if you would like a simpler test, put a spark test (or screwdriver) on the end of the wire directly off the coil itself. you can take a jumper wire from ground, and touch it momentarily to the neg side of coil, it will spark as long as you have power to the pos of coil!!! if not, jump power right to pos side of coil and try again, if that works your coil is not getting power or you have bad ignition switch

sure, just know that a solid core wire is really for points only, they can cause interference with electronics. Other wise you really only have two choices of wires, cheap carbon core wires that wear out quick, or a wound alloy type core, both reduce the emf enough to not interfere with the electronics...

could be a lot if things, you can just stick a screwdriver in the end where the spark plug goes, and hold the plastic handle on the other end, hold it near metal, and see if it sparks.... if the distributors are burning up it could be the computer. have you tried spraying, carb cleaner, the low voc will not work, and starting fluid is for diesels, remove air cleaner, when someone is cranking it, spray carb cleaner in. if you have spark, it will at least try to start. we have driven customers cars to the shop, with me sitting under the hood, and keep spritzing it with carb cleaner. now if the distributor is not fried, and they keep getting loose, then you have a bad bushing. it is usually bronze, and its in the hole for the distributor.

the cam shaft sensor will have a test process in the book for your kia, also they need to be "gapped". they are very sensitive and sometimes can be off. this part is the same as the sensor inside the distributor. except your reductor is on the cam end

yeah dodge used the prestolite too, most parts are over the counter still they aint as obscure as people think.... They where just oveer built and you paid a lot more for it...