Awesome Jake!

Thanks my friend, we are doing well. Same to you.

Thanks J. Once you understand it you can easily diagnose any problem.

Awesome comment, thanks Bruce.

@@glengillham4629, this is known as a "learning experience". I'll bet you won't do that again.

Thanks my friend, I will

Thanks Matias

Thanks for watching my friend

Thanks Bill

A hotter spark does wonders

It sure can! Thanks my friend

You're very welcome!

Thanks my friend

That would suck. Maybe they were overheating?

@@PetesGarage That's what i thought was a possibility and tried mounting in different locations but it didn't help. Maybe the quality is better these days but somehow i doubt it.

Interesting problem to solve

It's getting tougher to upload during the day. Thanks for watching. I'll have to put you on the text notification list....lol

Thanks my friend

Thanks my friend

Wow...thanks for sharing that

@@PetesGarage NOT A PROBLEM, lol. I'm just glad I wasn't fixing the total timing or Revving it up for throttle response.. LOL

It's coming along

Thanks!

Thanks my friend

Happy to help

That's it

Thanks my friend

You're welcome!

Thanks

It would be. I have taken carbs off engines with an existing dyno sheet and put on EFI systems and got more HP because of the hotter and more precisely controlled spark and fuel control. Even top fuel engines do not have carbs anymore. The use an injector plate over the supercharger and a computer to control spark.

Thanks Steve

I need details about the car

451 inch roller stroker Msd 6al. ....Coil... Tach adapter. Mopar performance aluminum mechanical dizzy.

Well, it can only be not enough fuel or weak spark

Yup, just text me.

Check the 3 things, air fuel and spark. Check the timing

First you have to find a manifold. Chance are you'll have to buy one and have the bungs welded in. Then install the system. Holly makes a very good system.

Thanks Vince

A single wire alternator is all you need

It's not the volts, it's the amps

It's pretty rough for sure

Machined from a block of aluminum and polished. It worked out perfect.

If the box does not have an LED on it that blinks with error codes, you'll probably have to change it

That sounds right

That's possible, but it could also be other things

Try hooking to a different switched power

@@PetesGarage A relay solved it. Thanks!

Are you using an Accel 6A box?

Your MSD box power is hooked to the starter side of the starter relay instead of switched power

Yes, one is constant 12V and the other is a trigger wire.

Sure, as long as you have a way to trigger it

You can use either

@@PetesGarage Thanks!

Fix the key, it could be a bad switch or starter relay

All the MSD box does is tell the coil when to fire. It has nothing to do with the make of your car. You have it wired wired wrong somehow

My car car keot running after installing my MSD, I believe I had to put a diode in my wire to the voltage regulator.

Anything with silicone in it will work

@@PetesGarage Thank you. I thought to use Thermal Grease G107 Silver Gennel (has silver, good conductor (for heat as well)), but I'll double check for silicon content in it and might rather apply Silicon Heat Transfer Compound MG Chemicals 860-60G or MX-4 Thermal Compound Arctic (that one is most expensive, so maybe most efficient). In general I find that the application of chemicals (I mean which one to choose) is the most complicated part of DIY work on cars. Thank you again for your opinion and so informative film.

Thermal grease is great, a bit more expensive

@@PetesGarage Thank you for your replay. See I installed that ICM like 6-7 months ago with no lubricant at all. I wanted to replace the part, since the car had ~100K. When I removed the ICM in the box where it was sitting I saw a yellow blob, I didn't know what it is and threw it away, cleaned everything w/CRC electronics cleaner. A new part didn't have any package w/grease shown on web-site. Any attempts to find out what it is in that package failed, it is transparent thermal grease (not white as silicon products I saw). Meanwhile someone wrote that there is no need to put anything on the back of the ICM, but just a bit of dielectric grease on 2 connectors. Since everything was kind of vague on the project in the sense of that paste, I decided to install back the original part (there are no problems w/car) and meanwhile try to find out what exactly should go on the surface of the module. Someone was writing in comments that the paste is essential, and computer can start malfunctioning. The car was doing well through summer and autumn (in Texas). But I was thinking that it might not be right, so yesterday removed the ICM, put a layer of MG Chemicals - 860-60G Silicone Heat Transfer Compound, 60g Jar, so the ICM appeared as a sandwich w/butter. I put like 1-2 tsp, worry that might be too much. I also suspect that the blob I removed was the right thermal grease which accumulated through years in one spot. The car drives as was driving before, no issues. The ACDelco ICM I keep as a spare part (GM Genuine Parts 19300922 Ignition Control Module). I'm not sure of course if the project was completed correctly. It would be good if you could make a film about different heat compounds, greases and so on, and their applications in auto mechanics. Practically nothing on you tube. Thank you again.

Awesome! He loves it

If the box does not work right, it's usually a mismatch of parts, like wrong distributor with box. Before I dive into the electrical issue I make sure it's not an air/fuel problem. Breaking up at 3000 could mean the distributor signal is not firing the box at the right time.

@@PetesGarage Did find some damage to distributor gear (obviously needs shimming) so hopefully this is the issue. Also thanks for your response.

No damage to the gear. I'm not sure what caused it, but I have an idea

Could be the distributor itself

It would help alot

@@PetesGarage Thanks for getting back to me.

Make sure you're getting fuel

Check your power. Specifically check your fusible links. They probably burnt through.

They're pretty good

It can

Yes you can!

@@PetesGarage awesome, thank you for the reply!

If it's the hard mounted plug and it's broken you'd have to open it up and tap into it.

With some tachs (check documentation first or risk ruining) you can run them off the negative side of the coil wire.

Fouling with oil?

@@PetesGarage i think its oil. The plug is wet and black i only run car every weekend. To car shows. Its takes maybe the 2nd or third weekend an starts popping. Then i change just number 2 plug

That cylinder probably has leaking rings or valve guide seal

I will

An MSD has a flying reluctor ring with a magnetic pickup. They are the same

The box was the problem. They have a history of burning out

500

Good point

Any error codes on the box?

@@PetesGarage Not that I can see, its an older 6A box, no LEDs exist on the outside of the box to give a status. Unit has 4 rivets holding it together that I think I can drill out to get inside. The green wire appears to be the negative on the magnetic pickup, so I think by taking the purple to ground and since the MSD fired under this condition, I suspect that green wire either has a break or is disconnected inside the box. I'd hate to drill out the rivets without really understanding if thats the issue. The coil isn't seeing a constant 12V, but I also read this isn't an unusual condition for an inductive ignition system.

I had to take mine apart to see what was wrong, give it a shot

@@PetesGarage I tried, I failed. I found a bad ground, and when I tried to clean the corrosion off the ground pin I forgot I still had battery hooked up. I got a little to liberal cleaning the board...i let the smoke out of it :( Time for a new box!

Ouch

It has to be triggered

@@PetesGaragehey Pete what do you mean? My box is getting power but the orange wire exiting the box and leading to the coil isn’t getting power. Any suggestions? Car cranks. That’s about it

Coil, could be many things

@@PetesGarage it's Getting spark and pump is running

check the injectors

It is

Everyone makes mistakes

It could be overheating.

@Pete's Garage the box overheating? Cause this is the 3rd coil on it and same results. It's just strange Cause there is no stumble or anything just loses spark out of nowhere but fires right back up.

The 5 blinks is the Rev limiter shutting it down

That is true

There is nothing wrong with points, as long as your car has them. I can say I have burnt up many sets of points, I have yet to burn up a computer.

Done the book of matches thing. A high roller with a Bic lighter would be SOL!

Probably why Accel is no longer around...lol

When it's running power will run through the coil

I'll start working the balloons back in

Thanks Ken

Thanks Cody

@@PetesGarage you are welcome. We all learn things the hard way sometimes. Hopefully your next one lasts a bit longer.

We don’t live in the 1980’s anymore, stuff is made better

@@2econd428 High voltage in a small space creates a lot of heat. Heat cycles makes wiring brittle. Vibrations can cause brittle wires and solder joints to snap. None of that has changed since the 1980's.

That's why MSD provides rubber vibration isolators and recommends installing the box in an open area where it has room to breathe.

Interesting, thanks my friend

I say that because most people refer to it as an MSD or Spark box

Exact same company. MSD group bought Accel (and other MrGasket brands) in 2015. Subsequently I think MSD was bought by Holley who has an appetite for buying up everything it seems. I think Holley and Edelbrock own almost everything now.

Thanks for the comment