Glad you found it useful. You are right - you can charge a car starting battery with any cheap charger or power supply . The profile of the charge and the accuracy of the set voltages are is more important for repeatedly cycled leisure batteries or battery maintenance applications. The battery emulator is just an adaption of the test system I wrote to check my switch mode power supply designs. It can load cycle and the DC side, cycle the AC mains voltage, subject the UUT to mains input dips, brown-outs and over-voltage surges. The Schaffner transient burst generator injects up to 4KV spikes in the mains line. You would be surprised how many bit of consumer kit are easily destroyed during real-world mains simulation tests!!

Thanks.

Glad it was helpful!

Yes, seems good. I have one problem to investigate as I saw the output go wild couple f times. It doesn't like and capacitance connected across the probes at which point is does strange things. Neglecting the traditional output filter inductor and employing an Aluminium Polymer cap in its place the output filter is maybe an innovation too far. If connected to a battery and nothing else it seems to work but if any part of connected device has a capacitor it does strange things. When I get to the bottom of it I will release a video.

@@razenby did you get to the bottom of this problem? How are you getting on with the charger, as I’m after buying one

@@The_Last_Post It has been maintaining our JAG in the garage. Seems to work OK. Hasn't failed,. Probably turned on for 5 weeks straight so far. The one I have here is lacking an inductive filter one the output side. It doesn't like capacitive loads across the clips.. Works OK with the car connected. I didn't investigate further.

@@razenby thank you for replying so quickly, interesting about the inductive filter. Does that mean it was missing from the factory or it could do with one fitting? Would be good to know what type/value needs fitting and where. I understand if you’re not interested in further investigation

Welcome aboard!

Maybe one day! Ill get back onto it soon. I have been designing high efficiency 300W switch mode power supplies for use in horticultural lighting but that is done now..

Why do you want a Schumacher charger? I have a older 1 amp Schumacher manual charger I bought in 2012, and a Schumacher 2/10/50 amp manual charger I bought in the 1990's. As far as I know Schumacher automatic chargers do not have a desulfate mode like Noco, CTEK and Pulse Tech chargers do. Noco also has a force mode to charge a battery that is below 1 volt, most SMART battery chargers will not charge a battery at that voltage level, and a good reason to buy a Noco Genius charger or have a older manual charger to get the battery voltage up first.

If the battery is good, and the voltages maintained then why regularly etch the plates with desulfation if it isn't required.? Seems a destructive thing to do - Anyone think this is a good idea?

Pleased you found it useful.

Thanks for the tip. I will look out for one. After testing my view is that reviving a modern battery by Desuplhation is an urban myth based on the old very heavy, built like tank, not sealed, wet cell lead acid batteries. They did respond. However modern, car starting VRLA batteries are made to be as light as possible and to last out the warranty . Desuplhation is more likely to do further damage. See the other comments.

@@razenby I think it really depends! Nowadays the lead wet batteries are built with different qualities: the more expensive, the better. Walmart EverStart Maxx series comes with 3 years free replacement, and can easily get 6-7 years life. The VRLA batteries are more designed to fail on cars, as you can’t even maintain them! And if they sat in the engine compartment, the heat would dry them out prematurely! AGM batteries are of this type!

@@razenby Another interesting thing is this: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/geB_hKti2d3UeWw.html , and seems to be effective in extending wet lead battery life. How do you think please?

@@razenby BTW, the Battery Tender Junior model is the most popular one! The old version is hard to find, since it has been replaced with a newer version.

I haven't had much success with the reliability of the jumper packs that I bought. Let me know how you get on with the NOCO GBX75 . Thanks for watching.

Thanks for the visit

@@razenby I just got an NOCO Genius 2 for my BMW 328 which has an 8-year old 90AH AGM battery. However, it acts somewhat different from what in your video. It has stuck in the first 25% stage for 5 hours even though the voltage was already 12V when charging started. According to your video, the charger should output at least 1.5A constant current at that voltage with a total charging power around 18W. But mine seems to send out smaller current in pulses as I can see that the 110V AC side input power varies between 1W and 4W (I use a portable power station with an AC outlet and wattage display). The average charging power is about only 2.5W... Update: Now it works fine with about 2A output current after I repositioned the clips. The charger seems to be sensitive to any resistance in connections. It even refused to charge when I tried to use my Fluke77 to measure output current.

There is no issue - It will work fine. In fact it will do a better job on maintaining a large battery as only small currents are required and accuracy is more important. I maintain my 120 aH Jaguar battery whilst is isn't being used.

@@razenby Is it safe to say that even Noco Genius 1 will work fine for maintaining such big battery?

The genius 2 is slow but would get you there for both batteries and maintain either well. In any case the battery supplier recommends only a 3A charge current for this size battery.

Hi James, the force mode on the NOCO should recover the battery. Disconnect it from the car first. However the battery will be ruined if the voltage at the terminals has dropped bellow 11V for any length of time. Even a few hours is enough to severely damage it. The 2 amp charger is excellent for small batteries (~50aH) as the charge current is within the manufacturers specification which is usually 3 Amps. The AGM mode is for 12V batteries only. AGM uses a higher charge current for longer and has a higher termination voltage. You could connect 2 x 6V AGM in series.

I am fairly sure that only the Noco Genius 10 has a 6volt AGM mode to charge with, and they are $99.00 dollars on Amazon, but they also have a repair mode, and can be used as a 12 volt power supply.

Nevermind. I hear later on that this is a being done on a test rig, not an actual battery. I believe the initial desulphation pulse stage only occurs on batteries below a certain OCV.

@@diycarguy6241 I believe the initial pulse charge when the OC battery voltage is low (~

For lithium, I should have said withOUT any repair or desulphation)

It may be the right thing to do but a right pain if you are impatient to go to work and the battery has just discharged coz the light have been left on. Makes you wonder what damage is done to a low battery that is jump started and then driven and subjected to the alternator.

At 25 degrees C?

Depends how flat, The flatter for longer the less likely that it will make any difference. ...

Nope, never heard of them.

@@razenby I’m surprise you haven’t because people rave about them Top Don tornado 4000 it would be really interesting if get a sample of one of them one day because you give a really honest review about products

@@markellis4229 If someone sends me one I'll test it. Ravers usually rave about their purchase to assure themselves that they made the correct choice so feel good about it. No doubt it was better than their impression is a subjective and not real-world.

I do really like your channel you really do know what your about with electrical and electronic items .one of my relatives had the same knowledge as you and I was the only one in my family what was so interested to try and learn from him but I don’t have the luxury no more because he s not there so I’m glad Iv have fond your channel 2 years ago

The early LEDs relate to a deeply discharged battery. Have a look at the curves in the next video (release later) you can see the Noco charge cycle. i.e. It may not be a fault that it rams up to throbbing green end light as this is the normal bulk charge for a safely depleted battery.