Hey Darren! Cody here from Kentucky, this isn't relative but I wanted you to know that I went and took my Level 1 RV Service Technician Certification Test for Camping World and passed it with a 95.86%!!!! Your videos were even shown in class, there are a lot of people out there that agree with the info you are putting out, keep it up Darren!

Great diagnosis Darren quite complex in testing thanks 😊

Any plans on “for dummies” style videos on these accessories? I think breaking down each step in the process, baby step by my baby step can help newer Certified techs like myself better wrap my head around your inventions, and how to use them. I am amazed by your ingenuity, but the speed at which you speak coupled with not knowing what to buy on your site, left me frozen. I Couldn’t figure out what to add to cart, and subsequently check out. Just thought I would share. Thanks for your videos!

you know your stuff. Good job. Great video

Before pulling the valve and going through all the adding power to the solenoid. I'd do a quick continuity test . It will tell you the coil is good or bad. This is more of a push for your tool.

Now for me, I would follow up by removing the coil from the valve and using a screwdriver test to verify the magnetic part work, this would be tell me which part is bad, but that’s just me. Thanks for your videos my friend

Thank you Darren. Very helpful.

Another very informative video!

Firmly tap the valve and solenoid with the handle end of a screwdriver 'before' any testing. I've had this work permanently on 3 separate rvs. Worked for me on 2 norcolds and 1 dometic. Just saying.

Always informative… thanks!

Hey very good Darren thank u

Good Morning. That was Great info. I hope never need it. I would like everything to work Great. Jack

Thanks for your videos

Great video on mine normal operation i am plugged into shore power and green light indicator keeps turning off then red/orange light comes on turn power off and back on green light comes on and soon after fault light comes on I will do these checks like in your video one last questio before i delve into it when fault light comes on even though i am plugged into shore power this just indicates that there is just a problem with the gas system?

Thank you

Excellent 👍

Thanks now I can do Mine !

Thank you!

In my area of the country if you pierce those wires and don't put liquid electrical tape it back on them when you're done they will rot away in 6 months

NICE!!

My lesson learned: when the fridge runs out of LP it fails over to DC with a warning beep. Once LP is restored fridge must be turned off then on to relight fridge.

What if it's not the valve, but it's the board that don't send the 12 volt?

Wouldnt just checking Ohms on the solenoid save about an hour of goofing around with toys

I use continuity to test the solenoid. Great way to test but my boss would have shot me for taking to long. Lol

My problem is opposite gas is working but AC does not new battery on front of trailer unplugged for 5 minutes reset green light comes on 1-2 minutes go by then amber (gas) comes back on

I think my valve jet is dirty. Can you unscrew the burner jet out of the valve since it has threads on it to clean?

So, can the gas valve get 12V and still not open ?

I have a Nocold that doesn't work on lp right away after setting up camp. Sometimes 2 hours, sometimes overnight. Its weird....I'm wondering if it's the gas valve. Thanks for the insight Darren!

Guess i am going to have rv tech check the my refrigerator. I think i have a gremlin. Clean the orofice and igniter. Worked for 3 days then stop. Started generator put on auto. When shut the generator went directly to the lp seems to be working. Any ideas? Gremlin right

Hey dan I have an Nor cold, 611 r t. It's missing the wires coming from the gas Is solonoid. Where do the wires go in to the motherboard. Please help

Great great information but I need help I’m not getting any response from anybody not knowing what the problem might be

Cant you just blow in the valve after you energize it ?

Your a cool dude.!

Can't you use continuity to test the solenoid? I understand that it could pass that test and still not open because something made it stick shut.

Hillbilly would just have put it up to his mouth and blew through it.....Don't do that, it tastes bad. Use Darren's method. Hey Darren give me a call some time.

My problem is that I don't have any voltage on the pins on the lower control board that the wires that lead to the gas valve are attach to once the upper(eyebrow) display board switches to gas when I remove the 120 volt plug on the backside of the refrigerator. I don't get any clicking of the spark igniter either. I have replaced the lower control board and while the upper control display board does light, the push buttons don't do anything. I can't turn it off, manually switch the energy sources, 120volt/12volt/gas, or adjust the temperature using the push buttons on the eyebrow display panel. It will automatically switch sources and the 120volt/12volt do make my refrigerator cold, all I get, once it switches to gas, after a brief moment, is an alarm with flashing error and gas lights indicating that the gas didn't light. With the buttons not operating on the eyebrow display panel, would you suspect a bad eyebrow display board? I had disconnected the wires to the gas valve and attached a 1.5 volt, AAA battery to open the gas valve and release gas to the burner. I had used one of those barbeque lighters to light the burner. It does stay lit as long as the gas valve was energized in the open position. So, I had concluded that the gas system was fine. Is it up to the eyebrow display board to send a signal down to the lower control board to send the proper voltages to the gas valve pins and spark ignitor that lights the burner? The lower control board had sent a signal up to the upper eyebrow display board once I had pulled the plug to disconnect from the 120volt source on the back of the refrigerator and told the eyebrow display board to set the alarm off that, I know, is soldered to the eyebrow board and both the error and gas LED lights flashed. Your thoughts, please

Not working on gas or electric,,norcold 16 years old ref. Five time blinking light on on off control,, Power to the control module at back of refrigerator, installed new circuit panel third one still blinking blinking five time light,, Electric 120 and 12 v in to Control board. Anybody have any ideas ?

Not port on my Norcold????

I’ve got plenty of gas….😉

I love your videos and have learned so much but do you have to be so redundant in your explanations? You said 4 times how your wires were hooked to the gas valve.

Way too technical for your average Joe searching. You spent too long in the beginning showing HOW you diagnosed and spit out a ton of information right off the get. Suggestion to appeal to viewers that don't know or understand your channel (the typical searcher) present what the problem is, exactly what is wrong and THEN after, show how you diagnosed and got to that conclusion. Just a suggestion.