haha, are they not all 40k printers....

@@FauxHammer at one point or another lol

I personally want infinite K.

Pff. I’m beta testing the 128K SuperGloo right now.

You need to Wait that the Cult Mechanicus tames the machine spirit and let the 40k printer work…

This, we've really hit the level of "good enough" that hopefully the next generation of Resin printers focus on all the things you mentioned. Honestly the real next big breakthrough in Resin printing won't be the printers themselves but will be whichever company first makes a non-toxic but useable Resin, then you can have it in peoples homes without having to worry about resin fumes etc. Currently that seems to be the major limiting factor on Resin Printers beyond space. However if that's even possible I have no idea.

@@luketfer It's fairly unlikely. There are a few resins that are at least food-safe when cured, but they are prohibitively expensive (think factor 5-20 to common resins), so no later than at the price tag this becomes a non-issue for hobbyist printing. Turns out anything that reacts to uv-light is also generally not very healthy. So unless we find a different way to cure our resin than uv-light, I guess that will not fly.

if the buldsize in x/y are buigger...14k would make sence...but in a standart size...no...and even then..i guess the minimum Z height will get to a limit.. since LIGHTbleed is a thing..a

@@0x777 there are even resins out there to make fake teeth!..😉

@@BitplanebrotherYes. But all these things apply to the thoroughly cured resin. Even normal resin is fairly nontoxic (still nothing 'd hand my 3 year old, mind you) once cured, but there isn't a single resin that I know of that isn't highly toxic in liquid form. And concerning resolution, well, I already could only see a difference between 6k and 8k under a microscope. Yes, you can see the difference there. And under very specific circumstances and on particularly plain surfaces that have to be printed at an angle, you may see (or at least feel) the difference. For any normal miniature or structured print, I doubt the difference is that prominent. And then there is the light bleed you mention, but there are also things like the resolution the resin is capable of hardening at (yes, it's a thing, even resins that can handle higher resolutions have limitations to how precisely they can polymerize) and of course the time factor. Are you willing to wait five times as long for a z=0.01 print than you did for a z=0.05 print? Because we're still talking about speeds that mean you print 3-5 hours for a mini, on a fast printer. Are you willing to print for a whole day for a resolution increase you won't even notice?

look at the left side of the model on the shoulder. Identical specs of dust, also right side ...3 specs of dust identical.. YEP

They could be better. I wish he and other reviewers would prime and drybrush the models. Models that look fine before paint can suddenly start showing jaggies once you start trying to give it some highlights.

@@tomyocom5886 Good catch , it's there at 14:46 exactly like you say... Come to your own conclusions about this "reviewer" - but at least this time he didn't use "his" blurry, crappy "Warhammer Resin"...

@@retromodernart4426 I love this guy, I think he just grabbed the next clip. I edit video and Blend instead of jump cut. old school......peeps probably know what that is and it crosses over well to 3d printing fine details. Faux just grabbed wrong clip and put it next to same model...I just pointed it out and like me he probably had glasses off..haha.... he still thinks it is a different model though.....

@@tomyocom5886 BS, and the excuse just makes it worse. Bottom line, what a sloppy faker, but you love who you love and like the saying goes, "Love is blind:...

It's making informed customers do the research. The average person who's just looking to get a printer is who they're targeting with the marketing talk.

He doesn't know or show how the heating function works, he doesn't know why a heavy, paneled UV lid is better (in most cases, on lower cost items) than a single-piece formed lid (hint, "crazing", look it up), he doesn't mention the plate levelling mechanism and why once it's set (either from the factory or by the user), the plate _may_ need to be adjusted once a year if someone dropped it a few times but probably not [hint: it's VERY secure], he sees that a full, new, 1000g bottle of resin doesn't overflow the resin vat (even though the vat can only hold 750ml up to the MAX line) but doesn't understand how it won't overflow if he sticks a full bottle on with some resin already in the tank (and loudly suspects that it will overflow) [answer to his "big mystery" - the resin stops flowing when the WEIGHT of the resin in the vat is >= to the WEIGHT of the resin remaining in the bottle, gravity doesn't increase the weight of s stationary object no matter how high above a lower object it is], and still, he did not mention a single print failure of any kind... If that's one of the "Best reviews available", and you need this moron to show you why "Most printers are getting to the point of being all the same" and you "need the precise to the point opinions of practical details that sets them apart" [which is true and a sharp observation] - well, he didn't [and can't] tell you, and faked the prints, too, [used the same prints on left and right comparisons at 14:46 for one blatant example]. No sane printer company should send this clown any free printers for review because his reviews are random blabbering for the most part, regardless of the actual qualities/faults of the printers. Nor should any sane [albeit corrupt] printer company even pay this clown to shill their printer, because his endorsement is a definite "no buy", based on his sloppy "reviews".

Yeah it's coming down to the features as opposed to purely resolution.

He'd be dead if he didn't though g

GK2 might be close to worth it if they put in a proper light source instead of the obsolete, cheap, crappy "UV LED matrix" with the plastic "lenses", and got rid of the LCD and LED heater under the screen and went with an in-vat heater. If you care about print quality price/performance an 8K Whale3 SE or Ultra, is way better right now (pseudo 14K LCD who knows, can't tell from this crappy review).

I can't thin of a printer out there that wouldn't achieve a 30 micron support given the same resin and environment.

What printer was it?

@@NobodyInTraining Sorry mate. My reference was rather vague now I re-read it. I was referring to a marine fish tank & stand. It was just a drawn out way of saying, "I've a few dubious experiences purchasing experiences from Chinese manufacturers whom aren't under the thumb of western companies looking to maximise profits. The printer reviews give me similar vibes" Damn! This is drawn out, too ;)

The cold winter weather reduces resin fluidity, leading to first layer printing failure. Preheat the resin using a heater before printing to ensure optimal temperature for successful first layer printing. During UV curing, generated heat should maintain resin within an appropriate temperature range, ensuring fluidity and successful printing.I believe this represents the correct design idea！

The problem is, he didn't mention one "little detail" - the file can be printed from either the WiFi, USB or from the 8GB memory on the printer. So, when you print from Wifi, the print gets loaded into the printer memory and prints from there. Doesn't touch your file on the PC. When you print from the USB, it prints off of the USB stick. Nothing gets deleted on the USB stick. When you upload the file from the USB to the printer memory, you then remove the USB stick and print it from the printer memory, nothing on the USB gets touched. Whether or not the printer deletes the file from it's own (printer) memory afterwards is kind of looking a bit different now, right?

@@retromodernart4426 Yeah that makes sense, sounds similar to a paper printer queue or something but not a huge deal unless printing from only memory is your workflow

thanks a ton

@@FauxHammer I want to say that FauxHammer thoroughly answered every point in my comments here, and even more, in a very satisfactory way, in a popular forum when questioned similarly by someone there regarding this video. Much appreciated, FauxHammer! Liked and subscribed 🙂

FDM prints do not work like that so a pixel count for FDM would be pure marketing bs.

100% this!

Possibly, but I’m not testing it for the reasons I said, the lowest point if the bottles lid was well above the max fill one, in which case the max fill line is Bs and that’s another small detail oversight by Nova 3D

probably related to power management

@@FauxHammer Maybe firmware could enable it to some degree. Once the resin is pre-heated the resistive heater may not need to run at very high watts to maintain it, especially considering the act of printing also generates heat. I think it'd be well within the wattage limits of a standard outlet.

agree on the outlet wattage, but the internal power management? dunno @@JorenMathews

You really don't know that, do you, he didn't show how the heater actually works, it doesn't just turn the heat on and turn it off when you enter and exit that menu - he just said. How it really works, is it turns on the heater and moves the build plate up and down into the resin, stirring and warming it and the build plate, too, until the build plate and the resin are at the set temperature. The printer is enclosed with that "very heavy lid" as he mentioned - which is good insulation. Once it reaches temp. you start the print, and it works fine with none of those striation problems like GK2 had until they decided to move the heater down below the LCD to age it and the crappy UV LEDs faster. But that's ok, Rossy don't know but now you do...

@@retromodernart4426 If you watched the video you'd hear him say "Yeah, that's right. The heater does not function whilst the printer is printing" I'd say that shows Ross does know how it works - or doesn't

@@ausfoodgarden We'll never know from his video, because he never mentioned and didn't show what the heater and printer does between turning it on and leaving that menu , in addition to just heating while that menu is active. If he would have showed the actual heater function with the "stirring" (he knows how to do timelapse of course), and let it heat the resin to the temp he selected, measured the resin temp in the vat and temp of the build plate (IR thermometer is handy for this for people who are serious about printing), let it print with the "heavy lid" on, and measured temps during print, then showed the result (using the real print that just printed in the heater test), that would have been a real review of that function, whatever results were - instead of a typical Fauxhammer media video production (dramatic and shallow like 3D printing soap operas)... So unless someone saw all this demonstrated somewhere else, all they know from this video is the heater doesn't work when printing and nothing at all else about it. Somehow, after all that, all the prints he showed here looked great, and far better than anything he printed with his "favourite resin on his favourite printer"...

The cold winter weather reduces resin fluidity, leading to first layer printing failure. Preheat the resin using a heater before printing to ensure optimal temperature for successful first layer printing. During UV curing, generated heat should maintain resin within an appropriate temperature range, ensuring fluidity and successful printing.I believe this represents the correct design idea！

it was visibly higher, but I didn;t have enough of the same resin to test, nor would I really want to for what I hope are obviosu reasons

Awww, mines still on its way

if it;s not for you, then I'm happy to help

Yeah, exactly, if you want this and are happy with it, go for it. The printer is OK rather than WOW. but it could have been WOW OMG amazing!

How large of a build volume do you need? I have had good luck with Phrozen's Mighty 8K and Mini 8K machines

Saturn.

That’ll definately help

no comment - but it's being renamed the X1 Mini

@@FauxHammer is it worth taking a look at it? I’m semi-new to the 3d printing space and love all the videos you have been making! I’m planning to upgrade to a bigger resin printer and was hoping to get one that has a built in heating solution. Uniformarion knocked it out of the park but around the same price I saw the ApexMaker X1 Mini* with their neat resin tank heater.

@@jrawrr I haven't got it yet. despite what the website suggests, it's not actually ready yet, the prototype has only just been completed.

no, they are fun to feed. they troll, I reply, they usually comment again. More comments more engagement, more views. I love trolls the most because they are the most engaging.

Not unless they can tell me they’ve made useful changes. This is about the 5th update they’ve made. Last time they contacted me was a couple of days after Vogs review and I could see they’d done little

@@FauxHammer I totally agree the previous versions did little, but this release seems to have some useful new features (not that the UI itself has changed much besides more skin options). You can now choose to reduce the light source intensity (low and high options, not that you know how much lower the low option is), and I think it now recognizes lift speeds under 60mm/min since printing the same file I have set at 40mm/min after the update does seem to be moving the plate slower. The cloud webcam stability also seems improved, I can connect to it more often than not now. I'm printing multiple prints right now to see if crashing/freezing is still an issue though, and thought I'd update you about the pump too. You can actually remove the pump and have the printer still run just fine. I unplugged it and shoved the cable back into the case and plugged the hole with a silicone plug they provided. I've opted to remove the pump, swapped the vat to nFEP, and now I can replace the vat easily and still have faster print speeds. I DON'T think it warrants a FULL re-review, but maybe a short update video?

a couple of small things, but that's the main thing. but if looking at this for the heater, please watch the video

@@FauxHammer Yes, indeed. I see what you were alluding to. Even if it worked, I'd have to skip this one. The lack of attention to the web-site is too possibly indicative of sloppiness, lack of professionalism; I'll not add this one to my collection.

You'll quickly find with printing that aiming for the elite will only disservice you. I learned a long time ago the attitude of "I'm happy with that" is more than enough

Watch this space

From my limited understanding, it sounds like Bambu changed the game by doing really clever software implementation. I'm not sure how that translates to resin printing, but I would be excited to see them innovate on it.

@@spinafire I have some thoughts on exactly that - watch next week's video

It isn't any better because it is not 14k

I wish manufacturers would use the pixel size instead of the meaningless k number. Yes meaningless because a Phrozen Mini 8k has far better pixel density than their Mega 8k. As to sticking to no more than 25um, I have no argument with you if all you are printing are desktop minis. But I am a manufacturer and want results with tolerances as low as +/- 10um. That is what I get from my CNC milling machine and lathe. I only get +/- 30 to 40um accuracy with my mini 8k and mighty 12k so am limited in what parts I can print as opposed to machine.

check out my 3D printing in the snow video as a few people do like teh ChituSystems one I mentioned in that

@@FauxHammer I had no idea these even existed. I would like to see a video demonstrating the few different types of heaters that are available on the Amazon link you had in that video. I'm going to end up buying the chitu systems heater based solely off of me already recognizing the brand name. But I am curious about the VIT Sport one as well as the white one that seems to be sold by a few different companies.

The cold winter weather reduces resin fluidity, leading to first layer printing failure. Preheat the resin using a heater before printing to ensure optimal temperature for successful first layer printing. During UV curing, generated heat should maintain resin within an appropriate temperature range, ensuring fluidity and successful printing.I believe this represents the correct design idea！

I had an issue with the screen when I got it that was resolved with a firmware update. But due to that video production was put back. so the pre-sale price has now gone back up.

these screens aren't typically designed for printers I don't think. but are actually made for mobile devices and POS displays. Printer brands just buy them in.

version thing?

Between super and ultra how it dosnt really show witch you got selected

I would advise a different approach. You should use the vat clean function to cure the a thin film of the whole screen area. then instead of pushing down with a scraper, push up from below with your finter in one corner - the whole piece and anything else that was stuck will come away much easier

same as the one on the right at 17:19

gerund?

Eh?

no, it's not 14:46 is though, by accident.

really? because I put the wrong text over the images on purpose to see if I'd get comments like this....

It's not nuclear waste. People go a bit overboard on how toxic it is, you can touch it if you want, it's just sticky and difficult to clean off and the fumes stink but in my experience not dangerous. I'd say mechanics using engine oil every day are at more risk.

because they just don't realise that it matters to us. UX is not a thing in their eyes

may aswell call this one a 1024k, it means about as much (F-all)

watch my best printers of 2024 video