As an installer this was a nice video. As an installer I will point out a few observations that are never mentioned in videos. 1. on the back corners you are left with 3 layers of vinyl, do you know what that does. That causes your cement board be be bent inwards at the bottom. Tile doesn't like to bend. The solution is you sawsall a fat channel like 1/4" at the back corners so you can tuck the liner behind the wall instead of folding it on the inside where you need to cement board it. 2. Don't cut the liner to the same size as the drain hold. cut a smaller hole about 1" in the center then pizza cut the rest, just 8 slices. The liner will stretch and bend into the drain hole cavity when applying the bolt on threaded thingy. Creating a much better seal. 3. Although you did a great job on the curb. Wood curbs fail because the wood shrinks leaving air space then the grout cracks then the water gets in then the tiles crack. The only solution is a cement curb then you bury the liner in the cement curb which means the first level of mud needs to be installed then you put in your liner as usual but you build the mud curb at the same time and bury the liner only half way into it tapering it up hill.

Well, color me ignorant. I have never been involved with the construction phase, even though I've been a plumber for nearly forty years. I never once ran into one of these pan liners, even though I was constantly working on floor drain replacements, toilet flange replacements, and shower drain replacements. This video is like an epiphany. Finally, seeing the correct way to ensure your shower is properly sealed is like a lightning strike to my aged soul. All I can say is that down here in Florida they must be paying off the inspectors to look the other way. I will never accept anything less in one of my homes.

My house which was a new build cookie cutter house has an upstairs laundry closet, no waterproofing at all, learned that the hard way. Used this to make the closet waterproofed after taking out the old ruined tile and grout. Works nice

As a single woman who will hire this work out, thank you SO much. Very helpful. Several quotes and opinions. I appreciate the open dialog gentlemen. ☮️

Thanks for the experienced comments. God Bless

Would this OATEY pan liner and glue be AQUARIUM SAFE ? can i make an aquarium seal out of these materials seen here ?

A few things to add that are missing in this video that may or may not be obvious: 1. Oatey x-15 sets up in contact with PVC *very* quickly, get your folds figured out and creased before you apply. 2. Oatey x-15 smells eye burningly strong, even with minimal exposure. I believe when I used it my sinuses were dissolved to reveal their freshest layer, even while wearing a mask and trying to keep distance. 3. The curb requires smaller hospital folds to deal with excess material, people may already know this, but it's not explicitly shown in the video.

Thanks for this video, helped me a lot 👍👍👍

I need this Material. I Live in Argentina.thanks!!!

What if the pvc liner has folds in it? How do you flatten it to install it flat?

How thick should the mortar be at the drain under the pan liner? How thick should the mortar layer over the pan liner be? How is the cement board attached to the curb without making holes in the pan liner? Thanks

How do you go about tiling the shover curb over the PVC? It is my understanding that mortar will not adhere to the PVC

The video doesn't show how to cut the corner where the curb is.

The video didn’t show how to do the liner corners a the curb. Some people will cut and think the dam corner will seal. I folded and sealed with X15 so as not to compromise the liner at the curb corners

Wow look at that it takes the company to show somebody how to do it right LOL, I would take a oscillating tool with a brand new blade and knocked out those three layered sections in the corners of the wood so it recess is back in the woods so your concrete board or foam board or whatever using does not bulge out at the bottom. And I've never done the double curb system but I would like to add you should pitch your curb because when water gets down on top of that liner, and the two-by-four curb is level the water's going to go one way or the other you wanted to go inside the shower so always pitch the two-by-four ittle bit into the shower, also in my opinion X-15 on top of the bottom three piece drain and underneath is the only place X15 or silicone should be, I know you guys use silicone or whatever I think X-15 work better. I've done some tests. Either is fine. I also use a plastic weep hole protector every single shower even if it's linear drain. And at first I was like he stapling through the top of the curb LOL but then you covered it with the second piece, you actually don't need the second piece you just make the same folds and you do the same cut that you did on top of the curb on the outside and the damn corners, also damn Corners are recommended on the outside and inside so we use for now. I constantly have to come in because I'm a tile guy and fix plumbing guys problems putting silicone on top of the liner and then putting the second piece down and screwing and smashing and smearing silicone and clogging the weep holes, so I have to disassemble it before the silicone dries get it all out make sure it works, flood test excetera and these are professional plumbing companies LOL. Most tile guys know how to hook up a shower drain w a y better than most plumbers. Sorry but it's the truth. Great video...... also in the beginning of the video it shows you screwing the bottom piece down to the wood subfloor but that leaves no room for the pre-slope and then your video skips to the pre-slope being done but that's what the little for divots are for on the bottom of that piece of bottom drain it's a half-inch room to accept half inch concrete for the pre slope

I still don’t understand how 3/8” of mortar and tile works with the drain cover sitting so high from the liner

anyway to test that shower pan without having to put in a bunch of water? I'm doing one on the second floor and if it leaks, it will ruin the downstairs ceiling...

The shower divider where the door sits on that part also gets cement board ?

Good video. No woods in curbs ever though. Mud curb only

Me in my head (I got this easy) I'm over here sweating bullets taking 3 months finally got the liner on I used recycled styrofoam in my mix with some rock and a little bit of sand an polymer liquid some water more type S it's for an rv so I had too keep it lightweight could have had a taller pan I'm hopeful I can fix that with foam panels more lightweight mix and epoxy will be using magic liquid seal with fish rocks decorated I tryed keeping it all in one piece for the toilet right next too it might have to cut and glue too get a better fit tho

What about the cuts on the corners of the curb

Instead of cutting the screw tops on the drain, cant you just remove the screws and slit the liner into the drain, then glue the collar into the liner? That would literally remove any chance of a leak.

Why not put felt paper below mortar base? So many people have said to do this so that the wood subfloor wont extract all the moisture from the mortar bed. And that's what i've done. Damnit.

Why not put felt paper before pre slope?

Can you have a seam across the liner? Is a seam a normal application for shower pans?

So now you also Mortar to desired height over the liner ? I’m confused I have a unfinished basement concrete floor I got my shower all Framed out it will be tile. Can I just lay the liner right on my concrete floor and then Mortor over top? Or does it matter help please

Can you put thinsets and tiles directly over the top of the liners?

Ok, help me out. What goes on top of the liner? You couldn’t tile right on top of that could you?

Works great.

How can install backer board inside the curb?

Do you just start tiling over the rubber liner?

How do you attach the tile to the curb? I'm told that thinset won't stick the PVC sheeting.

How do you allow for the added thickness of the shower pan in the folded up corners when applying backer board? You have added at least a quarters of an inch thickness to the bottom five inches so when installing backerboard over the pan then the walls bow out at the bottom which really screws with installing the tile. I figure that the bottom the studs need trimming or you will have to add shims to compensate for the added thickness of the pan at the bottom of the wall. And I have yet to see anybody compensate for that. At the corners I have cut into the corner studs and tuck the corner of the pan into the wall thereby eliminating the added thickness of the folded pan in the corner.

I have seen dozens of videos that show the drain sitting up on the plywood about .5” with the molded bolt bottoms sitting directly on the plywood. This shows the hole cut just large enough that those bolts drop down allowing only the lip of the drain to sit on top of the plywood. Which one is correct?

During the leak test @5:00, wouldn't the water slowly drain through the weep holes?

Someone please answer this for me . If whatever wall board you're using isn't going to touch the mortar bed how do you tile over the pvc liner

Are you supposed to screw the base of the drain right to the floor? I thought you need to leave a gap for the pre-slope?

Does the liner have to be glued to the floor?

Just moved into a new home, and noticed that when I step onto the shower drain it moves down a bit, house still within warranty period, what is the issue? And how should this be fixed? It's a tiled floor.

would it leak where the pan was cut for the flange screws?

I had to watch this video twice, cutting the Oakley pan liner to fit the curb, and then another pan liner on top is not common practice, Idk why this part is shown.

Thank you!

I wonder who the hell does it this way

You do not need a pre slope pour, install the liner right on the sub floor

No sir you just put holes in the liner

Step one: throw oatey in garbage Step two: buy a better shower drain system.

Why must we be subject to this abhorrent soundtrack?