The soft spoken gentleman’s voice makes this so much easier to understand.

35 year installer here. Those corners were a mess. And it should ALWAYS be dry pack CONCRETE not mortar for your pre slope and mud bed. Mortar is best for wall mud (not floors) where the added lime allows it to grab to the lath. Mortar makes lousy mud beds is prone to cracking and almost impossible to screed a pitch without it slumping. Also a good idea to use tar paper behind the cement board and install it slightly above the mud bed to help eliminate water wicking up into it. I've seen shower pan liners leak many times under the top flange also. The rubber compresses over time and the seal is lost. I like to also silicone under the top flange where it meets the pan, then clean the weep holes out with a finish nail. I've used Oatey products no less than 1000 times and should own stock in the company by now! Lol

Great video, You answered all of my questions I had about the job I'm doing tomorrow...Thank you, and I will use your products.

Gary Sisk Saw your reply. It's always worked pretty good for me. I usually glue the liner to my curb with liquid nail or whatever then thinset the folded durock to the pan liner. Screw on the front and mud locks on the inside . Usually pretty solid. Hope it works for you.

I did my Bathroom following this vid and my work looked professionally installed and with absolutely no leaks👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽

Very good video that dispelled several bits of bad info I received from my plumber.

My company does it a bit different but there is similar things with this tutorial. We do mud to floor then add membrane then wait a day then mud, thinset, then add a stone top. We silicone everything in the next day. The thinset seems to help with the stone not cracking.

seriously. thank you OATEY!

I use Oatey from kiln cement to shower liners. Y'all always got the goods!! Keep it up, great 🎥!! 👍🏼

Thank you very very much!

Like watching the special Olympics of pan installation.

Great video, answer all the question I had.

Very good product

Oatey, thank you for this product! Quick question, can I use a nice Kohler drain with your Oatey drain? Thnks!

Here are a few things I've noticed based on comments and other videos: 1) Use a moisture barrier behind the backer board on the walls, overlapping the bottom layer of the liner so water flows into the pan. 2) Use builders felt paper on the plywood subfloor (no need for that diamond lathe) and use Mapei 4 to 1 Mud Bed to slope down to the drain (Mapei has good instructions for subfloor prep in their product guide). I mixed 1 50lb bag with 3qt water or less for a really good mix. Only the layer ABOVE the liner needs 2" x 2" galvanized lathe. 3) On the top mortar bed above the liner, use the 2" x 2" galvanized lathe (noted above) 4) One guys video on here for the dam corners talks about cutting a X in the liner (not circle) and gives some good reasons on why (if the drain backs up, etc.). I might do a combo of sealing the ring but still use the X cut for the drain so the barrel clamps it to create a seal. He also doesn't cut a large X above the bolt heads to minimize the punctures in the pan liner. 5) As noted in this video, use Goof Proof shower curb kit to fasten the shower pan over the curb. That way you dont puncture the liner when tiling. Feel free to add any more tips I may have missed or any that need correction. Doing my first liner now.

He was wonderful exclamation thanks

Embed your wallboard INTO the poured pan....REALLY BRIGHT OATEY !!

good info

I been looking for a video of this kind of detailed advice for a while…… and FINALY this one shows up and explains everything anyone needs to know to properly self do it! Thank you very very much!

The best video on you tube how to install the liner step by step thanks ...a lot of videos on you tube how to do it this is the correct one thanks again for sharing

Here's a way I find very effective for the curbs without having to puncture the liner. After the liner is in place and before the is base poured, I pre bend a piece of wire lathe the length of the curb; approx. 4" into the base, up the inside curb, over the top of the curb and finally down the outside of the curb. So I don't have to lay the lathe directly on the liner, using an adhesive, I put a strip of 1/4" wonder board on the liner in the base, a vertical piece on the inside of the curb and a third piece on top of the curb, all full lenght. I lay the lathe on that and nail the outside of the lathe to the outside of the curb. Once the base is poured and the lathe is secure you can build out the inside, outside and top of the curb with mortar

Touchdown. This video guided me through the whole process, the only thing I did was add paper and wire laithe to the prepitch.

Install wall board (including cement board) about 3/4" minimum above finished mud bed. Never set the wall board into the shower pan... Regardless of what type of wallboard is used

Finally a real pan install without Schluter garbage.Only critique is drypack or deck mud is typically used, dryer than the video

@oatey y'all should have shown how to cover entrance frame patching before corners. that's the only thing I am lacking to do.

should the drain be level with the coller before you apply the waterproofing?

Molded wall boards. Guaranteed!

You should never let your hardy board go to bottom of pan, always keep it up off the bottom!!!!!!

I have built 12 tile showers over the last few years and have used roughly the approach described in the video for all of them, however there are issues that this video doesn't deal with. If anybody is about to build their first shower considerably more information is required. For me the best source of information was the John Bridges book on tiling. After, I learned a lot from watching an actual tile guy for a few hours and a more from the internet and the John Bridges Tile forum.

Oatey, I’m looking for a video that helps one choose the right drain for ones specific installation (membrane, hot mop, dry pack, all possible installations). Your website doesn’t have this either. Maybe in your test labs you have mocked-up your drains and have already filmed each and every drain you make? Upload please.

Put Wall board on over the pan and above the mortar bed so it doesn't suck water up the walls.

The the plywood goes directly ontop of the main cement floor?..is it added with some type of adhesive or no need?

What do you suggest for covering the pan liner on the curb? What is bricks are used as the curb on a concrete basement floor?

A few more comments: 1. I think the mortar used for the pan was wetter than I've ever seen advised before and if mortar that wet is used I would expect some slumping as it sets. 2. I've never heard of using glue to attach the membrane to the pan but it looked like it might be a good idea. 3. Most of the tile experts recommend tar paper and diamond lathe over a wood subfloor under the preslope. The video didn't mention this and FWIW, I've never used it and I haven't noticed any issues.

Does it have to be felt under the pre slope? Can i use thicknplastic sheet?

This is the best video for the shower

thanks

When I don't have gravel for around the drain I just use M&Ms. I always have M&Ms with me

Note the this video uses diamond lath under the per slope. Then there the curb - would you put diamond lath on the vinyl liner and then mortor - NOT ME - but that is what they're doing on a lot of DIY videos.

Well, at least they're pitching the pan, However, ** The wallboard should be a 1/2 ' off the slab to stop capillary action. ( also allows you to tuck your cuts under the wall)

Damn, I already did step 7 before,

only if there is a threshold ? what if you wanted to create a curbless or barrier free shower ?

I want to replace my old tub with a handicap shower. It's an older house and on Pier beams.

cool

I notice that is most "how to" shower videos they NEVER mention glueing down the pan liner. THANKS for discussing this! Am I correct that PL3 glue works well for this? It seems to be just about the only adhesive that specifically mentions that it works with PVC.

What is the approved adhesive for pvc to mortar base? It looks like liquid nails construction adhesive in the video. That should be listed in the video!

At 7:04, adding concrete board "about 1 inch above".... well the video looks like it is just 1/4 or maybe 1/2 inch above liner; not the 1 inch recommended. Might I suggest some sort of non-sharp spacer be used here?

Wow. For a moment I thought I was doing liners wrong this whole time. Until I realized this video was made by a tile guy.LOL

when you say cure do you mean 28 days?

At 5:30 the corners look a little unweildy to me. Regardless, the next section discusses the leak test. My question is - What is most common type of leak discovered and what did you do to fix it before going to the next step? Everyone talks about leak testing, but no one ever finds a leak and illustrates how to fix them.

Is it necessary to have two layers of mortar when I have a backer board floor do I have to make a layer of mortar under the shower pan liner and also above is it necessary somebody please help

Im doing a shower, 6x3 feet do they have that size of plastic liner?

That's some wet mortar. Do you guys watch the video before putting it out there?

Question.Is it absolutely necessary to add the first mortar bed even though your adding another one on top of the liner???

Are there any issues using only a pressure treated 4x4 for the curb? I think a lower profile curb will look better in my small bathroom.

OATEY SAVE ME

Go get a schluter shower kit and deadline the mud and tire patch kit

The “waterproof” cement board should not be installed into the mortar bed. There has been a lot of failure of water seeping up the board and failing a few years after installation.

Where can you get the material to build your own? I'm planning to rebuild my bathroom .

Nice.

How much would a job like that cost? I have three showers that need to be done, and just want to get a ballpark figure of how much it will cost? Thanks again for the video!

Looks like a high school home improvement class. That’s not deck mud lol

I don’t know why it’s referred to as a wet bed when it’s supposed to be a dry pack mortar bed . Don’t think Oatey got the memo

3:55 "Contact Oatey technical support for our list of approved adhesives" Or, just notice the tube of Liquid Nails being used.

Do you have to make a pre slope?

I've been doing tile for 40 years and I have not seen a video that they did all areas correctly the folds on the inside Corners are usually wrong this one in this video is is incorrectly folded in the corners

does the top mortar bed slope to the drain?

Why are they using a metal mag

At the end it mentions that nails or staples should not be used on the curb, and a preformed cement board should be used. what is that preformed cement board? I cannot find any information on that

Can the Oatey pan liner be heat welded instead of adhesive ?

Don't know why they didn't use some sort of mesh to hold the cement together? Won't it crack without something to keep it together?

Listen everyone adhesive is not necessary under liner if you have a small wrinkle if you have a big wrinkle and can't get flat get an other liner small wrinkles not bigger than an 1/8 of an inch don't matter because you are going to put concrete over it.

no dry pack?

is it ok to apply redgard waterproofing before installing oatey pan liner

I always run plastic moister barrier on the studs and layer it over the pan liner, stopping it just before the base. Water will run down into the pan if it makes it through the cement board at any point. My rationale is that plastic is cheap and easy to install and catches all the moisture that makes it through the cement board and water proofing imperfections. Any other installers use the plastic method and have results to share?

I suggest a new item to make...and yes you can pay me for it! A toilet one, because my bathroom is 5x6 and I'm including my toilet in the shower...so I'll be caulking around the toilet plumbing because nobody makes a shower drain but for the toilet and membrane.

This is Not a Dry Mix? Oatey had a mock up with a Cement Mix (wet mix). Idea is to have a Dry mix so as the water will Penetrate quickly down to the liner and into the weep holes. Suppose a Wet Mix will allow water to escape below onto pan liner also but at a much Slower Speed. Idea to have water Rapidly Go To Drain

I notice that the video doesn't show the installation of a vapor barrier behind the cement backer board. This is a pretty serious error and goes along with what I mentioned in a previous comment. This is a nice video but it is incomplete and if somebody is building their first shower I think looking around for more complete instructions would be a good idea.

U left out the paper on the plywood and the expanded wire mesh first

anyone know if that pre-slope is too thin? the drain is sitting directly on the subfloor making the dry-pack like an 8th inch...

LOL...Just shove that durarock (backwards I might add) into those bottom corners...Those rough edges will help with keeping the pan water tight! ( sarc off)...Now I know why they abbreviate the company name to OD...When the ceiling falls through in the living room from the leaks and the tile pops up from the shitty wet bed and the lawsuits start piling up...You'll want a hot shot of Heroin to take away the pain...

That's probably why they do two layers of cement

Last cement pour is too wet. It will crack! Think wet sand castle sand!

instead of having folks call Oatey/ why not name the products..?

That mortar mix is way too wet it's going to seep through the Pebbles and clog the weep holes

How to get in touch with oatey

I'm no tile guy, but shouldn't the liner be installed first, and then the mud bed?

Anyone else notice he's gluing the wrong side of the outside cormer

My pans look better than the one in this video 😎

Mine failed after 10 years due to water leakage between flange clamp and liner. Followed all install directions with Oatey products being used. Shower subfloor area had to replaced. I’ve been told that is the expected life (~10 years) of this shower drain system. I’m sure Oatey will say the failure was due to installation error and not their product. There are better systems out there.

Where the hell did that guy learn to float a pan? Always floor pans with dry pack mud.

Dude floating that floor sucks

A brutalist archaic method from the past.

Wrong. Do not install the walls before the motar bed.

Your mud is way to wet this is only supposed to be damp enough to make a snow ball

TERRIBLE installers... good product

Shouldn't put the corners in at all ...

Head spinning

That's not a pan maker guy, in fact it does not even has a pitch & that mortar is way too wet & not even smooth, too many lumps

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