If I may make a suggestion, attach your parallel wires to the post with wingnuts stacked on top of the main cable nut. So when you need to adjust them you do not have to shut the battery bank down. Just a thought.

hi, when i want to adjust any of the parallel wires i just pull out the small fuse and then there is no current flowing through and i can remove them safely but thank you for your suggestion. I have learnt a lot and made a lot of changes to my system through comments like yours.

thanks for the support mate!

You are always welcome mate

HI mate, yeah, I will make a vid about the charge controller soon. I have their pdf too. So far so good, the batteries dont actually use much water at all. Time will tell I guess. it floats the batteries at around 30.2 volts and only puts in around 300watts to keep them there. Also my batteries seem to be very well equalised and all of the specific gravities are equal. will keep you posted!

can someone direct me to he Matrixing video mentioned? This is very important information and the "DIY Tesla PowerWall" video does not seem to exist. I tried the link on the other video and the link does not work. Thanks. also, I can not find the creator DIY Tesla PowerWall.

yes that seems to be the general consensus, but the people at tesla chargers think differently and they make very good battery rejuvenators, so you would think that if they know how to resurrect batteries from the dead, they would also know how to charge them properly. time will tell, but so far the batteries arent getting hotter than ambient temperature while charging and the hygrometer says that all of the cells are perfect so all looks good. Im not really equalizing them every day because as the batteries reach 30v the charge controller pulls the amps right back. A real equalization (if Im not mistaken) would be a c20 charge at 30v for a certain amount of time which isnt what is happening. thanks for your comment.

yeah i have plans to vent the rest of the room as it gets pretty hot here in summer but normally if im in the house I just leave the door open anyway cos I generally pop in to check on stuff. The battery box is constantly vented though with a bathroom extractor fan. I have to do a dedicated video on my charge controller. It is working properly. the people at tesla chargers have some alternative ideas about batteries and how they should be charged. they make some very good battery rejuvenates that have very good reviews so Im supposing that they know what they are doing. Im not sure your analogy is correct. the battery voltage isnt the amount of food going in, that would be the amps and it hardly puts any power in to maintain it at that voltage. As I said in the video, Im no expert so dont really know that much about it. I have done some research and been following the work of John Bedinini for some time so decided to take a leap of faith and try their charge controller. It was very expensive too but Im hoping that it does what they say it does and so far, so good. My specific gravities are all very equal. the batteries charge fast and I havent seen any significant heat. we will see how it goes in the summer though when things heat up around here. MY solar panels are 8 x 300 watt panels, IMP 8,21 A, VMP 36,52 V, ISC 8,89 A, VOC 44,97 V. I dont think that there is much fiddling that can be done to get more power out of them apart from changing the angle. My charge controller has nothing you can adjust but what do you suggest? I just measured the voltage coming in from my panels and its 40.5v thanks for your comment, I will check out your channel

Hi there, it depends on whether the charge controller is an MPPT type or PWM. If it is PWM then there is nothing you can do. If it is MPPT, then you can connect panels in series rather than parallel which will help with voltage drop over the wire to the battery room. I have my panels hooked in series/parallel so the max voltage is around 80V...it means I can use thinner wire but put more power through it. Also with PWM style controllers they are a lot cheaper but there is a fair bit of efficiency loss, which would explain why you're not getting close to your 2400W output during cloud edge effects. Also I think you may find that the analogy is at least close. The higher the volts, often the batteries will take a few more amps in to achieve the higher voltage. There is a lot more gassing that takes place when you're up and over the 28V mark on a 24V bank. If there is too much gassing this can cause the batteries to bulge and the cells become damaged. Overall though you've done a fantastic job with everything, you're to be commended for sharing how you've done everything and showing people how to wire things up well. I'm still learning so much about this sort of stuff myself, there's a couple of exceptional examples that I am trying to follow to the best my budget can allow. It's with people like you who share your experiences that I have learned the most from. Thanks again!

Hi Adam, my controller is a pwm controller but its not a standard controller, its quite different from what you can buy off the shelf and was anything but cheap at 1800€. I chose that controller because of who made it (John Bedinini) not because of price or any other factor. According to the manufacturer of my charge controller it is designed for minimum gassing and my fluid levels have stayed pretty constant which I presume means my batteries arent gassing much. When they are at the top of their charge they bubble a little but its nothing major. I will make a video about the charge controller and see if i can catch the batteries in their different states of charge so that you can see what im talking about. I calculated the thickness of my wire from the panels for less than 3% drop, so that for sure is part of the loss but a very small part. I really think its more to do with the angle of the panels. I will be getting a Pip soon as a backup so will be able to do some tests to see if its the controller or the panels. Your panels will only put out their maximum rating when they are clean and at the perfect sun angle, with the perfect temperature etc which is only a very small window at certain times of the year. I am like you, I have learnt everything from watching and interacting with others so thank you for your comments, kind words and support. I very much enjoy watching other peoples journeys in this area so keep your videos coming too. I have some questions about your set up but will post them on your channel.

Hi there, that explains a fair bit of the loss then. If it is PWM then it will chop off the excess voltage rather than convert it into amps. That compared to MPPT types can likely cost you between 10 and 30% of your incoming power from the panels. It also explains why the controller doesn't have a readout of watts coming in or out etc. I'll be most interested in seeing a lot more about your controller as it certainly functions in several ways that would normally be considered as damaging to batteries. I went with the Victron gear, and for what I have bought, it works extremely well. I've got an old battery bank and an uneven bank too, such is the learning curve, and in more recent times I've been spending a lot of time learning more about how it should all be setup and how it all works, both via KZfaq and via Justin Case plus the team at Battery Extra in the UK. So much to learn!!!

what do you mean by chop off the excess voltage? Its an 80 amp charger so can more than handle the power coming in from the panels. I think what is likely happening is that my battery bank is fully charged early in the morning so i never see the power coming in because the batteries are always full at the peak solar hour. i will play with some loads to see what i can get out of it.

Hi Sy, Im not sure either ;) but the manufacturer of the charge controller seem to think that this is the best way to go. Time will tell! thanks for your comment!

thats what i normally fill them up to.

It's the charger/inverter from MPP Solar Pip 2424

cool thanks mahlo