I have been binge watching all your videos. This video gave me not so fond memories of screw/bolt extraction while I was a Machinist in the Navy. You would not believe how many dim-witted sailors are allowed to perform maintenance on the fighter jets.

I don’t know what it is but I can’t stop watching your shows over and over love it ! Keep them going !

I love the old generators. No cheap plastic parts on that generator.

I think this generator needs to go into your own personal museum of genies.

That thing sounds so freaking loud! Def one benefit of new gensets, regardless of inverter.

I love these older open style generators. No covers or fancy electrics. Motor, generator, that's it.

The one thing that seems to stand out is that the engine sounds like it's labouring hard, right from the very first start - That hard "thrappy" sound tells me that the engine isn't happy about something and I'm wondering if that's what the previous owner picked up on, and thought perhaps the spark arrestor was clogged, and removed it on that basis. The nearest I can relate it to is an old Briggs powered bale elevator that we had on the farm which sounded just the same. Now, there were two possibilities suggested to us, one being that there would be a flattened cam lobe, limiting valve lift, and the other being that the flywheel key would be partially sheared, thus shifting the firing point. In our case, it was the latter, and a new key fixed the problem. The glow in the exhaust is indicative of the exhaust valve opening early, thus releasing the flame too soon, and whilst the combustion is still in progress - Thuswise, the energy from combustion is not being maximised in the cylinder, but is still burning at the moment it is being released into the exhaust muffler, and causing it to overheat and glow. That would also indicate that the cylinder block at that point is also overheating, and liable to be lacking lubrication, and greatly accelerated wear - which could also be a cause of glittering in the oil. I'll be interested to see part two, and see what you find, and what the real causes are.

When I was working in the sixty’s we had a similar type generator it to only put out five or six amps that was enough for a drill we were using to bore holes in wood beams ! We left it alone ! Good enough for our purpose !

A lot of people would have just given up at the point where the new carb didn’t work. Thank you for going all the way, made a great video.

I like that you will put your time and energy into an old engine that is simply not economical but for the sake of eve👌👍ryone.

Man O Man James, this is a real head thinker, but i know you will get it on part 2. see you there.

This is not meant to be disrespectful in any manner. You do a much better job than I am capable of. This comment won't solve the problem, I simply believe you induce numerous variables sometimes. Such as lapping the intake valve then also changing back to the old carb. Then return to the clone carb but also adding fuel, returning to the original spark plug, and also removing the air filter. This is just my opinion, but I would do those one at a time, testing each one individually. Thank you for all the informative videos.

When we used one of those generators for construction we were lucky to run a compressor and a skill saw off of it

You just gotta love this older equipment.They were built like tanks. Given the proper care, they will work forever and if there was a problem, they were built to be repaired. I have some small engine powered equipment that are at least 50 years old and still perform quite well. So glad you saved this one from the scrap yard.

That's one of the cleanest intake valves i've seen in the last few years especially on an engine that is less than 3 months older than me

I wish our medical doctors diagnose and treat patient the way James to generator.

Great video! Briggs & Stratton made that engine for many years. As a kid in the late '50's early '60's my family had an old Toro "Park Special" reel cut lawn mower with that very engine. 8 horse power with an oil bath air cleaner. You sat on a sulky behind the unit. It was a beast! Thanks for the very informative, diagnostic videos. A joy to watch!

Just found this video and for some reason I really like that old-style air filter assembly.

I had an old altenator design power unit given to me once. A 7hp briggs of the same design as yours. It had set in a barn for several years, carb, tank were in bad shape. I cleaned tge crud from in&out the carb with a soft bristle mini brush and some sandpaper, use all the old parts. Put bb's in the tank with some water and shook it clean, several rinses and one with gas. I had a newer coil from a junk rider, converted to electronic ign. Stole a sparkplug out of an old weed eater. The machine starts on the first pull every time. Its a 3000 Watt unit. I gave it to my pa-in-law, he used it when Hurricane Katrina hit us. He had 3 freexmzers, told him run 1 freezer and freeze it down, then run another, do the same same. Just rotate the units and don't open the doir unless nessecery. He ran some lighting with it also. He's been gone now about 7 yrs, I don't know whar happened to the old machine, it had an 81 yr model motor. Guess when the family started cleaning out his stuff the generator got sold. He was a great guy. Used to sit outside at night and talk for hours, best friend I ever had....

I have a 16hp Briggs generator just like that and i can't seem to find any parts for the generator part. Actually this is one of the only videos i can find on fixing one

I've been working on small engines since the mid to late 70's... and still to this date work on them.

I have one similar to this one, bought it cheap, had to clean the carb replace a outlet. Need to fire mine up as I haven't ran it in years.

Great systematic diagnostic. It will be interesting to see any final outcome of you decide to that follow further. Thanks for sharing!!

Great attention to detail….on the exhaust bolts reassembly I’d use some copper grease.

Very good! I’m fairly experienced with repairing generators, both mechanical and the electrical end as well. I had never seen this “leak down” testing method done before. This is why I really like KZfaq...for the learning aspect. Well done. Thank you.

check the ignition timing with the head off check the valve timing, valves on the rock as piston passes TDC. set the carb at full load wear you want full power not off load

That thing sounds amazing!

Just a side note on the leak down test. The breather cover must be in place and the hose plugged when checking for crankcase pressure. Nothing will show on the dipstick tube as all the pressure will blow out the breather area.

Great video, this is really enjoyable to watch. No annoying "action" or clueless operation, un- or overmotivated talking or anything of that kind. One rarely finds that! The valves immediately came to my mind when I saw flames coming out of the exhaust at the first carb adjustment, and then again when the muffler started glowing. I would have suspected the exhaust valve though which might start beeing to tight when the engine is warm. Excellent job of testing the valves with liquid, because often you lap them and the seats look perfect but they till leak. Had that multiple times and learned my lesson to always do a leak test with brakecleaner or an equivalent. I was very much surprised that the repaired valves didn´t seem to improve the problem.

They used to add those springs to take up the slack in the governor. Makes it just a tad smoother.

Those are some of the best carbs still. Gets great fuel mileage when the engine is on a go-kart. Also they can idle the engine at a super low idle.

I suggest that the generator was a fire dept issue because its painted red with number 4 and it was used for lighting which it is perfect for no great load

Sounds like a Cessna!

got a winco and it works great after i converted it to propane. 11hp briggs is loud but powers the house fine

somehow I remember the early 90's being a bit more advanced than this thing shows.

You have very good troubleshooting methods. Keep up the good work..........Jay

I like the check the armature bearings under load if there going that would drag motor down

You might find investing in a Colourtune to be worthwhile for diagnosing and especially tuning. It's a spark plug with a clear top that lets you see how the fuel is burning, and by that can tell you if it's lean, rich, right, burning oil or other contaminants in small amounts and so on. I was given a very old one many years ago and though I use it rarely, it has helped me considerably with those times I've pulled it out.

I had a woman once that looked much younger than she was and her output was similar to what you’re experiencing. All the makeup and fancy clothing didn’t work too, like the new carb and paint. Oh well live and learn you’re still young. However I do enjoy your videos..

I do actually believe that is the max cause i have a old generator like that ! And if im not mistaken u took out little over the max power on that generator so that is impressive

Very satisfying nosie when ya heat the jet brake free lol

I would want to investigate the reason for friction on piston travel. Surely that would affect the engine's ability to deliver full power.

Looks like 1 I wouldn't mind having myself

I love thows wisconsin generator

If been laid up check bore and rings sometimes they stick in groove with old funky fuel and oil.

I had one of these long ago but it was a 12 HP. It had a very poor governor as I remember. But it worked for many many years with nothing but fuel and, and the occasional oil changes. I loaded it up heavily with a welder and it had plenty of power, but the power occurred down at about 50 Hz. The engine had a painful sounding knock at about 62 Hz so I was afraid to adjust it to have higher speeds unloaded. Once I started working "in the road" I lost track of it. The exhaust note during your testing at the beginning of the video sounds like it has ignition timing problems. (I say this at the time you just tested the new carb.) The glowing red exhaust also supports this theory. They had plenty of power when new. The acceleration when started up would bring the engine up to speed a lot quicker than yours is ramping up. Looking forward to seeing your next video on it.

Couldn't hurt to crack open the Dyna and see if the bearings need to be replaced as they might be dragging under heavy load?

Just coming on to you channel. Not sure you will get this but can still hole out hope. 😬 On those old carbs, it has two separate adjustments. One for idle, one for full throttle. The low, idle. Should be adjusted to be just above stall. The top will have to be adjusted by ear. Didnt see anything in the video about that. Love the older stuff! The new stuff is interesting and informative. Thank you!

Looks like a FD unit, but not overhauled in years

Gonna say it was from a firetruck or other EMS.To me that engine is older the the installed cooling shroud. Great video through.

Those older flat head eights are very reliable!

Interesting case. I would check the muffler for restriction. The cam timing should be checked for split overlap and lift. Anything that would stop it from pumping air would restrict power.

The old flat head motors were so darn hard to kill........ if you didn't run them out of oil, they just kept on ticking.

When I go to the farm sales if I see 1 I try to buy it or them, u can't go wrong with old school gen's.

Nice video on the genset. Try adjusting your main jet with your 3000 watt load applied. That may help.

It runs just like my old Sears and Roebuck Geni It's a 1500 watt made in the 60's, great to get rid of skitters "needs and overhaul " though doubt i can find a set of kits for it now. Has a Tecumseh engine around 5 horses. Love the older engines they generally just run and run and are cast iron blocks. and yep no fancy smancy pull start you have to wind the rope. and you have to do points at least every few runs no. need to pull it outa mothballs and clean it up and see if i can get her to run for me again. Love your vids, keeps and old bird like me piddling in the barn. Hope to see more vintage engines and genies

To test fuel we do the screwdriver test dunk it in get out your lighter and safely light it if it burns bright and fast it’s ok if smoky or dim flame probably has water in it,works for us eliminates wasting time on rest system if just fuel.we have fresh fuel but we still like to test it that way it’s the kid in us lol

Throttle control and spring from governor arm to carburettor, remove the spring from the carburettor and start it

There’s gold in that pan! Also looked like you was starting a friction fire while lapping that valve. Just observations.

Carb reminds me of a ford 8 N carburetor

That used to be a generator on a fire engine, probably engine #4 from what Insaw on the generator. That’s why it is painted red.

I've got that exact same generator except it has electric start and its badged by pincor

This was a great video to watch. Lots of helpful troubleshooting techniques. When you do torquing of some of the bolts, could you mention what torque spec you are setting them to? About to watch part 2!

I would start with making sure that where the fuel comes out of the tank that the fitting doesn’t have something blocking it. I assume that the power head has bearings of some sort. I would make sure that the engine isn’t fighting against them using up all its power.

Im pretty sure that engine was used for pumping water back in the 70's. I used to have 2 of those engines, one specificly made for a generator and one for pumping water. The water pump one never had enough power to do high rev like say on a go kart. The generator one worked perfect on a go kart and had plenty of power at higher rev.

I did have one of those, u have to adjust the gas with the load to get it to work

great job James!

Great video, your step-by-step diagnosis is really great. Should have a Patreon link, I'll drop you some money. Hell it's free school lol

Check the points (if it has them) and adjust the main jet while under load.

I have one very similar. Never liked the updraft carb. Mine quit making power and I never looked at why. Probably a diode. Been sitting for 4 years now.

If that’s a points condenser ignition, change both especially condenser if points are ok.

hi james you are working hard on this old girl ,cant be a lot of money in it for you ,i think a rebuild if you have got the time and keep the spending down if you can mate

Also red glowing muffler could also be a leaking exhaust valve.

I have found that if the bottom fuel adjustment screw is adjusted to far in it can and will damage the seat and needle. (at video point 1435)

kind of relaxin to pull a carb apart, taking ur time and cleaning all the holes in the emulsion tube or is a jet? either way nothing clogged. I have seen tiny tiny holes in the barrel end of carb close to the engine and throttle plate. having soaked carb in cleaner and some shop air works out pretty good.

The main jet setting on the 2500 Craftsman generator that I once had was about 3/4 of a turn out, otherwise it ran real rich.

Great detailed video. Thanks.

Spark arrester missing, not a bad thing. Engine will run better with a little more power

James keep the videos coming. I’ve been waiting for new ones.

Hate to criticize the adjustment. The main jet is adjusted with the throttle open. With the governor, this means under load. The idle jet is adjusted unloaded and the throttle manually held closed. It has no accelerator pump, so releasing the closed throttle will cause a slight hesitation, which is normal when adjusted properly. The generator when loaded should have the main jet adjusted for the governor to close the throttle as much as possible, then slightly open from there so it does not run too lean. This will provide good load pick up response.

i have a generator with an even older version of this engine, first pull everytime. Built like a tank, weighs as much as a tank.

S91 in the Winco serial number means September 1991.

Try bypassing the fuel system to the carb.im thinking fuel filter or tank outlet restriction. BTW verry informative and entertaining

Funny, I see thing from the 80's and 90's and think... That looked more modern back then. Now much of it looks like it could be from the 40s!

Sounded like a helicopter in my AirPods. Lol

At 5:13 You should have tapped it with a lefthand thread !

Did you verify the valve lift? Glitter could be a damaged cam. That could explain the additional force to turn the flywheel in mid stroke.

From Mike watched your winco generator video. Good info. I was going to mention I purchased a winco hp 4500 generator few years ago $40 1988 model year on 8 hp ic engine They are built lecenter mn 6 miles from me. Anyway went through carburetor last person in there boy o boy. Got it running runs good changed oil. Mouse nest debris coming out. So next day pulled end cover off of generator huge mouse nest. Vacuum it out. Blew it out. Only seen 1 wire chewed on white ground wire about 2 inches. Put cover on makes 124 volts both outlets. Will find something to put load on it. A concern of mine is there are no circuit breakers on unit. I was going to use for home use if needed. I was thinking of feeding into a 30 amp 220 breaker. The generator has a 50 amp outlet on it. The breaker should provide some protection? Hopefully works ok. Otherwise I have another in my storage shed similar size. Another 8 hp B&S got that going 10 plus years ago. (No gas when stored) that one had carburetor story too. Great videos keep it up

I would run it without the muffler on as a first test, as it is easy to do and causes no harm. If no improvement, I would check the spark timing, take the head off and check the valve timing too, tho I dont know the opening closing angles. These could all be out of whack, so low power even tho the compression is good. Maybe someone opened the motor and put the cam shaft in one or two teeth out. I would also remove the decompression lobe off the cam shaft and learn to start it full compression. I have a Tecumseh lawn mower engine I did that to and it ran much better Lets see what Part 2 brings.....

I am not a mechanic, but maybe the even though you are getting spark when you hand crank and at no load the spark plug wire looks good. Maybe even the 110 v outlets? I really thought you had it on the last attempt. Good luck.

Another great video James. I'm a long time lurker and recent subscriber. I have watched lots of other video from various sources and I really prefer yours. First, you have a voice for radio which makes it easier to listen to and the way you structure the progression of the teardown and reassembly. Your camera work is very good, thank you for using a tripod, I get seasick on some of the videos out there, dude pick something to focus on already! I appreciate your attention to detail and the data you provide as you go along. Every time you include stuff like the B&S check sheet I run out to the web an get it. Just can't have to much documentation! Really like the style of carb used on these older engines. Updraft is ancient technology but, fuel cannot pool in the intake. BTW, did you clean out the tank on this one? Did I look away for that step? I saw you replaced the fuel line. The crap in the bottom of the bowl had to come from somewhere. Maybe past that damaged bowl gasket? Thanks again.

Check the points behind the flywheel

Since you already know you have sparkles in the oil I would mike the cam journals and check the bearings. I am a bit surprised that that unit is rated for that kind of wattage. I have a Montgomery Ward one from the mid to late fifties which is rated for 1200 watts as I recall. The engine is similar in size and looks to yours. Can't walk away with the question mark hanging. While you are down there I would pull the piston and mike the cylinder bore for 'hour glass wear'. This would explain your rising friction midstroke perhaps.

White powder is aluminum oxide from having water in carb

We had a green coleman generator. 3000 kw bought in 1985. 8 hp briggs. It was soooo loud and would hunt all over the place no matter how clean the carb was

I saw a lot of torsion when you ran it under load... Maybe crank bearings worn and crank twisting a bit on load up

Updraft carpureator?? Good luck! And may God be with you! 🤣

them gen set's we ues on road work's in the UK manly ruing traffic light's i often sore them doing that but never sore then driving big loads often i would boil an electric kettle on one their were never meant to drive. heavy loads, good gens reliable kit . les England

What is the flash at 50:10? Spray a little carb cleaner in the intake while under load to see if it needs more fuel.

Winco is still in business.