this is a great video of a 455 olds rebuild. just a couple of things. GM painted the engines once they were fully assembled, so there was overspray all over them and the core plugs were painted also. not a big deal, unless your car is being judged for points at car restoration show. as far as the rear seal goes. all the Car magazines do the offset rear main seal, it has been done so much everyone things its supposed to be done like that. it's not. on engine with the rubber main seal, they are designed to be egg shaped, so that when they are put in the cap and tightened down, they become round. just like the main and rod bearings. you should never spin a crank unless the bearings are torqued to specs. the engineers call it bearing crush. same goes for the rear main seal. they are not designed to be put in off set. also, you should put a small wipe of silicone on the ends where the seals come together. there is a company (GST Racing Seals) that now makes a "one Piece" rear main seal for engine that came with 2-piece rear main seals, I use them for small block and big block chevy. but i am sure they offer them for more engines. also, some cranks, one they have been worn past a certain point or turn below .020 can have a hard time sealing against the rubber seal. ironically, Rope Seals do a better job at sealing a crank that has a grove worn in it from the seal or that has been turned below .020. as for cleaning, I use acetone to do the initial cleaning, followed by dawn, water and a whole lot of elbow grease and nylon brushes. then i hose it down, can hit all the machined surfaces with ton of WD-40 (WD stands for Water Displacement) and then blow it dry with a air hose. then i clean it again with acetone and the marvel mystery oil like you use, on all the machined surfaces like cylinders, and bearing saddles and repeat until it is clean with a white lint free cloth. one last thing. Permatex and Royal Purple assembly lube is great stuff, not knocking them in the slightest, but i live in a warm climate, so if I plan to assemble the engine in one day and fire it up the next, they work great. however, in a warm climate it will run down into the pan after a few days, and you can have a dry start up, which can kill the bearings. if I am going to assemble an engine and have it site more than say 3 days in the desert southwest heat, then i prefer to use Joe Gibbs Driven engine assembly lube, it's more like a wheel bearing grease in consistency, but is designed to dissolve in engine oil. it won't run down into the pan if it gets hot in your area, like it does here in the desert southwest. it's also fantastic on roller cams. as for the cylinders, i use break-in oil on the wall when installing the piston and rings. but one all 8 are in i put a little marvel mystery oil in the top of each cylinder to provide lube to the top of the cylinder when the engine first fires off. it makes a smoky mess the first time its fired, but i give the rings a little lube during that first start. the under side of the piston get splash lube from the rods and crank almost right away, when it can take a bit for the oil to get to the rings after first fire up on a break in run.

Everyday we learn something new. This new method for adjusting the rockers/pushrods is such a great.

Love to see dyno #s on that beauty

Its excellent to see someone does it the way i like it.i was watching a guy build an LS style gm engine,and he says”this is the smoothest engine i ever put together”they should ALL be like yours or your not assembling it properly or its dirty.either way your wasting your money if your not meticulous.

Love the video, awesome engine build. I wouldn't have used the sealant on the MLS head gaskets but would have done everything exactly the same. Great work! Awesome project!

Slow is fast, fast is slow. For any precision work, this is key. If you want to have real successful throughput, take your time and do things carefully and methodically. Then you can do it once with confidence you won't... cause a situation, and with it time and monetary costs. There are some things you can rush and hackjob, and this ain't one of em.

Great info. This will be my go to video for my 455 build that's going in my '83 Cutlass.

Thank you for Taking the time to do this video. Its Awesome.

Fantastic build on your Oldsmobile 455 plus your paint on the engine came out awesome just like the factory

That Ellison machine shop video of lashing valves is ingenious!! And so simple how no one ever thought of it is mind bowling he turns the engine 8 1/4 split or 90' 8 times and lash every. Valve every time turn engine by time you are done it's all done none are left out

Joe Montello was Dr. Olds. He made several books about hi performance and race Oldsmobile engines. He passed away a long time ago. But if you can find one of his publications. It's a great source of knowledge and tech only about Oldsmobile

Nice early F2 block!

By the way,your an excellent guide at the task.

clean engine is a happy engine

very cool!!!

I have a 1971 Cutlass 350. 2 barrel AC, PS. Eventually PB. 3:42 gears turbo 350 trans

A high compression Olds motor was gold small spark plugs

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If you have your bearing clearances correct,your wasting horsepower with a high pressure/high volume pump.if you look at an engine thats properly built with the oil pan off and you spin the oil pump with a supply of oil to the pickup, tube,,very little oil squirts out of everywhere,so a quality built engine basically dead-heads the pump and oil bypasses through the relief

Great video Hutch

What are the cam specs?

The serpentine belt set up, what did you get that off of? Is it Oldsmobile or Chevy or what?

Hey hutch. I am putting the same set up in my 87 cutlass but my power steering pulley is rubbing the gear box. I think it has to do with the motor mount being too low. If you don’t mind me asking which mounts did you use. Thanks for any advice.

How much do you charge to do a complete rebuild on a 68 Olds 455 Rocket?

Where did you get your rockers with the relief milled into the bottom…on my application it is tight between the radius of the stud and the bottom of a rocker similar to yours… and I need one the has been machined like yours.

Would you ever consider a Oldsmobile 350 build for the street with mild performance? I am getting mixed suggestions> Would love your help. Great build

Where are you located?

FYI ..."Trust But Verify" - was Ronald Reagan

No plastic gauge on the crank ?

How are you protecting your car? ??

That looks like Pontiac Blue to me.

You missed one important part. Being that the roller cam is a billet steel core, you must install a bronze shim between the camshaft and block. Not doing this, the cam will tear up the block.

Have you ever seen anyone freezing a freeze plug with dry ice to install?

crank too tight

It may be a minor detail but it's still attention to detail

When you measured the distance between pick up and sump pan you didn't add the thickness of the pan gasket there's a lot of difference between some seals that would be like saying the when you calculated the compression ratio the difference between head gaskets obviously you would use a metal head gasket if you used some aftermarket gasket it would change the compression ratio so all things must be calculated