Did Bradwell lose a bet that he have to add that music?😂

not more ai music😭😭

not me sitting here trying to figure out which of the 236 tabs I have open is is randomly playing J-pop while I'm trying to watch a Bardwell video....

Glad to see I wasn't the only one who struggled with this build!! I did a budget 4S build using the Mario 5 frame (also my very first build and very new to soldering) for under $350 (including 4 batteries). I used theSpeedyBee F405 V4 stack and the capacitor fit perfectly in it's little hole. I did cheat a little with those PITA side pieces....a dab of hot glue held them perfectly in place while assembling. I used the RadioMaster RP3 with the dual antennas (one in the traditional spot out the back and the other out the front (right behind the 'air ducts'). I was very impressed with how well it flew (considering it was my very first build).

Just bought this frame yesterday! Also a quick note about the steel laminations. They are actually used to reduce eddy currents in the stator, preventing heat buildup, increasing efficiency.

Mario 5 Upgrade Kit A contains O3 antenna mount and a set screw that allow to fit your standard O3 antenna to one of the PLU part that comes with it. Then, Mario 5 Upgrade Kit B contains O3 cooling side plates L and R that allow to mount your O3 unit to the frame with some space underneath.

The capacitor that comes with the speedybee f7 v3 fc is 1000uf but it has a smaller diameter then a normal 1000uf you find so it does fit in that pocket. I ran the power wire the same but I did use 14awg wire which gave me more flexibility and a little more room. I used the hdzero freestyle v2 which fit nice as well.

I liked this video so much I got one of the Mario frames. Thanks Mr Bardwell

Thanks for this video. While you were disappointed with your first attempt to mount the capacitor- you did prevent me from making the same mistake

Oh wow! J B having troubles, so glad to see the Master rubbing his head in frustration 🙏 much respect Mr Bardwell 😅

JB, 1st when I was trying to use the clever slot for the cap I noticed that it makes the stack solid. Next I tried to mount an original DJI air unit (with two antennas)but the clever rear posts are in the exact place that the antennas come out. So swapped out to 03air unit. Then same as you pointed out needed to create some space under the 03air unit. The clever thing is that they figured that out with the add on aluminum sides they sell you with the upgrade kit.

It's nice to see you do a build with a clearly HIGH number of Fs per Minute (FPM)

Had to pause the video twice to make sure the music is coming from his video xD Didn't expect this LUL

Right on Joshua, nice video and build.. thanks for what you do. I've learned so much from your videos it's crazy. That day is coming. Thanks

Speedy bee is awesome already especially with there Bluetooth adapter and flight boards

This was the most entertaining frame build ive ever watched 😂 loved every second of it

VCI Are a great performing motors. . I'm glad you were able to finally try some.

The ai music is absolutely hilarious

I'll be doing a similar build this weekend, but with a Walksnail Moonlight camera and VTX. Hoping that your tips (14ga wire to the XT 60, and long leads on a smaller cap) will expedite the build. Thanks as always, JB.

Thank you for all you do! This frame looks legit. And I completely agree...if someone is looking for a real in depth guide, please go watch the building guide...it's the best.

good to see all the issues you run into in the build when I have them too. I would have personally used the adapter for the O3 mounting by lumineer that would give you a little extra space and hold up fine. I installed mine with the moonlight camera and designed my own antenna mount and gps mount. Love the frame and build. great video!

Congratulations on keeping your peace. Outstanding.

IMO anytime mounting an o3 air unit to carbon you should mount upside-down so that you can access the usb port better, and I always mount it with 3m tape and zip-tie... But that Alien-tape is so thick and it solves both problems. 14 gauge would have been totally fine for that short lead, right? Really interesting frame and nice video!

Looks like you got new freestyle moves in the repotoire! So cool! Also very entertaining build video! You accurately capture my frustration when building!

I was able to run xt60 with the elrs receiver underneath to the back

Thank you😀 , great build video. I have a same frame and I ended up with running XT60 cables on top of VTX, just under the top plate, this save me a spot in tunnel for RX. ❓Can you please share what rates you setup in this quad?

I built this frame 2 weeks ago and Made the huge mistake, not to put heatshrinks in the capacitor. So it kills my FC. 😢 after i bought a new one, everything worked! Use the o3 cooling mount! So it raises the o3 a little bit and you have no trouble with the xt60 cable

Beautiful build, Joshua! Really well done! 😃 The XT60 situation is indeed weird... I don't think they intended to put it like that, but... Well, I'm lost as well. 😬 Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊

Love the music,love the anger it’s causing more.

I really do like the 03 mount on the pro version.. it keeps your 03 setting up higher so it doesn't smash your power leads

The pro version of this frame has heatsink for the O3 and it is raised a few mm. SIdeplates for the stack aswell.

Now every JB's video will have "oh my god the music" top comment

The frame is pretty awesome. I fly one often. I had the same cap issue. Luckily like you I keep some around. The only thing I do is I put that alien tape around the cap. It attracts filth. But the reason I do it is to pad it so vibrations are limited. Idk. I’m ocd about battling resonance. I put small stand offs under the 03.

I just built the bee35 as my second drone built. I guess it’s harder for the config since the motor are upside down. But I think speedybee is great because they comes with nice instruction manual!

I’ve experienced both the F4 and the F7 Speedy Bee FC definitely the F7 just seems way more locked in without even tuning. thought it’d be worth sharing.

Josh is literally a Brainiack 👏👏👏

Hmm... I am partly into mine. I put the capacitor in that back slot... never thought it was for the power wires. Oh well. Got a small stack to put on top to sit it over the top of the wires. This is my first ever build. Just getting onto the tricky small soldering as I didnt use DJI components. Looks much easier with them. Soldering is definitely the hardest part, really needed further guidance on how best to solder before progressing.

I love these motors! And I have to agree with you… they feel fast. Compared to my AE 2306.5 1960kv, these feel more powerful. Maybe it’s a power delivery/curve thing but I’m digging them.

That stock xt60/antenna tpu is for an o3 antenna. You have to put the antenna retainer on the antenna. It should be in your bag of parts

I got my frame with pro kit B it has a 03 aluminum hold that get it out of the way of the power wires

Somebody buy this man a lint roller.

With any problems like vtx mount - I personally use pet-G standoff made by myself. It works perfectly

Bardwell got him some free part's. Nice quad🎉

I've built 20+ at this point. Last week, accidentally put motor screws in that were just slightly to long. 10 sec into first flight, esc cut, quad face planted, and looked like it was on fire. Power was arcing between the screw heads through my carbon arm 😂😂. Actually only need an arm lol, and shorter motor screws

12:34 the cap with the v4 stack fits fine. At least the one that came with my stack. You must have the v3.

Regarding that heatshrink on the capacitor legs, I had it there as well on my SpeedyBee master 5 V2 frame and it was also touching a frame...one day I made a rougher landing and there was a white smoke coming from the drone...so I examined it and the capacitor legs were completely burned off...as it was touching a frame and heatshrink was rubbing against the carbon. As it is thin, it rubbed through and both legs shortcircuited on the carbon frame...so since then I leave just a bit of the capacitor legs and solder a wired cables to it with thick isolation, so it has more flexibility, than the orignal capacitor legs and doesn't get shortcircuited again...

got the deadcat version of this as my first build flys so good

Yes Bardwell, steel laminations but usually high silicon alloy.

The original xt60 fits in that 3d print just fine, no need to solder that one it came with. Mine fit in there and has never moved at all. I didn't have to snip either it fit under the 03 perfect. However I couldn't put the elrs in that area, but I'd rather the big wires going under the 03 and the elrs behind the 03. I still think as you say Bardwell..... it's a slick frame. I got the DC version cause I can't stand props in view..... still Rips. Unless your super pro you'd never feel the difference of the Xframe or the DC. I bought this frame before it came out because the thought gone into it was actually great. I may turn my v3 source 1 ripper into another Mario just because it's less wind resistant lol and it's cheap! Once you build one you'll be able to build another quickly.

Damn I wish I had property like that to fly

1:40 is it just me, or does the vocalist of this song say "speedybee Mario" right here? is this like an official track for the frame lol?

HEY IT'S A ME MARIO

Joshua you're missing the 03 mounting plate for the frame. Don't know why it doesn't come with the frame but it does with the pre built version. I also picked up a Mario 8 fold frame kit and had to order it from speedybee. It basically lift the 03 unit from the frame and allows you to run the wires under the unit. You're also missing the heatsink for the 03 unit. It's a hexagonal shaped.

This is a quiet frame with no frame resonance. Dynamic notch filter can be turned off. Deadcat Pro kit version.

Hello, Thanks for the very detailed review for this frame. I consider the speedybee master 5 vs or this mario 5. which one is good for freestyle pilot?

ARC Magnet motors have much lower DC Ripple..... this would give them a much longer life, less heat generaion, lower vibration and much nicer for the ESC's and PDU also. Nice review..... Thanks Joshua ;) I learnt something today !

The capacitor I got with mine fitted without dismantling the frame, so I could solder it then install the esc with the capacitor sliding right into place as the esc drops in.they must have given you the wrong one. Maybe in a rush to get some reviews.

Good tune JB:) music wise

Which C rating makes sense for a 6s 5 inch quad?

OH MT GOSH THAGS WHY MY WUAD DOESNT WORK. IRS BECSUSD MY CAPACITOR IS TOUCHINF MY FRSME!!!! IVE BEEN TRTING TI DIGURE THIS IUT FIR MONTHS WTFFD. THANK YOU!!!

Looks more like a Wario build with this color sheme

I can’t get this song out of my head now? Please make it available for download.

My fav motors r the eco II 2306. Always smooth. And also cheap.

a comment to the minute 17:10. I have put the rx in the little chamber and the batterylead goes above the vtx its easier in my eyes and there is also a little windows which is perfect to see the statusled of the rx

The must of changed the capacitor size as th done that comes with mine now fits perfect

Easy to judge motors with betaflight 4.5 with the new logging, just compare commanded throttle time to actual time it takes with dshot rpm.

dude I've been waiting for you to drop the info on those third hands oh man

that music 😂😂😂

Thank God I'm not the only one that thinks quadcopters can be sexy!!!🤣😉😳

Baby Mario 3.5 would be a good idea

I went through the same with the capacitor..😂 then I thought "well I have a smaller cap" but I ended up running it to the front after realizing how ridiculous it was to build around it.. BUT I didn't realize the xt60 lead channel...😅😅 I routed it over the vtx...smh

The spot is there for heatsink but looks like there is another layer in the way 🤣🤯😉 idk about this one 🤣 i like the master 5 v2 😁 just having trouble getting it to fly 🤣 i will have to go back and watch some set up videos.... Been having fun with the YMZFPV starship X1 though 😁 and cinebot 25 S.

I literally just built the same frame but I opted to run the xt60 through the top plate and I also only had the ep2 lol

Can you please share the song its too nice ,loved it

Nice setup Build...🙂

I put together a mario frame last weekend and I was praying you didn't take the whole thing apart to put that capacitor in there haha ​​those middle pieces are a pain in the a**.

hello Joshua! i have some issues with no OSD showing in this Flight control F405 V3, in their website they said that have some issues with the SD card Blackbox affecting OSD display and they fixed it on F405 V4... I just tried everything and the OSd is not showing... Even installing that preset OSD for dji o3. By the way, thanks for the video!!

Enjoyed this video! I think the rear gap is meant for the rx not the xt60 power cable and the gap under the fc works well for a 35v 1000uf cap of smaller dimensions with the legs cut short and silicone motor-wire-remnant pieces being used to connect the the ESC power pads. These two things might have made it a little less tricky for you JB! (I think the xt60 leads should just come out the rear to the side, or up to the plastic printed part by being sat just above the vtx)

Have the same one is sick!

Please do a review or recommend digital microscopes. If I would have had this I may have not had issues sodering.

after that speedybee song i expected the omnifixo to come with it's own song when the music started again. come on omnifixo, try to keep up!

every problem you had with this build i went through the same shit lol

Great Video. What kind of purple filament do you use

Hello Joshua, I don't know who else to ask. You're simply the one who knows the most. I built myself a 7-inch drone using a 3D printer. The drone flew well until I came up with the idea of ​​simply printing the arms 2 cm longer and mounting 9-inch propellers. The drone has been flying unstably since then, no matter what I set. I wanted to ask you whether INAV is even designed to work with 9" drones?! 😁😁😁

Didnt expect to listen to a korean pop song on Joshua's video hahaha

I can tell 2306.5 from a 2207. Atleast when it comes to Xing motors. 2207 are for sure my choice for the performance and response they have. Both are very flyable and im not sure about the power/fly time of one over the other. But I do feel a difference in the two.

You'd have had a lot less trouble with the XT60 if you'd put it just on top of the 03 air unit.

the best thing is we get to learn from you mistakes first LOL thanks

song at end 🤣🤣🤣🤣

I have a Mobula 8 Walksnail today and looking to get a larger drone, is this a good drone to build as a first?

I feel better about my cussing & having to take back apart what I just put together because the next part doesn't fit in my build. I always leavy my wires long because the minute I cut them to what looks like the correct length, I find that I needed more length to go around the next part.

Seems like spacing the 03 Air Unit off the frame would improve cooling air flow, kill two birds, one stone.......

New here. why do you still need EP2 receiver when the O3 Air Unit already has receiver built-in?

I like the cut to black and white to go back in day with your Mom.😎

Hi Joshua! I ask you something, what is the function of telemetry on or off in the tango 2 with crossfire. If I have it disabled, are there no problems?

It looks like it was meant to have a heatsink with the wiring cutaways for the O3.

It looks very similar to RCINPower!

I GOT IT!! I GOT IT!! I GOT IT!!........... i don't got it. 😞 Love this!

I can't remember if I used the capacitor they sent with the frame or not, but the things that really got me irritated was the stack screws they sent in my kit were way too big. Luckily this wasn't my first build so I have many different sizes of stack screws to choose from and was able to remedy it without losing any time. If this was someone's first, second, third or whatever build, they may not have the necessary screw sizes to complete the build without having to order screws, of which they might have to guess the size, and wait for them to arrive. I'd spend every hour I had to wait cursing the name of speedybee for the not doing a simple check to verify the hardware sent is the right size. Fast forward a couple months and I've been quite happy with the frame. It seems to be more durable then the other frame in the same price range, the source one. Then I encountered something that I've never had to deal with... It appears my cap blew up. My only thought is that it shorted through the frame. I was super careful when installing the esc with the cap. I shrink wrapped the leads, plus put an isolation plate I got from pyrodrone. I guess the point of me saying this is to say that it wasn't something that I let slip my mind and didn't address. I feel I took reasonable measures to prevent the issue. I've never seen the capacitor blow itself off in the middle of the middle of the leads, which appears to still be shrink wrapped. It did cause a little damage to the middle bottom plate which is why I assumed it shorted to the frame. Anybody have any other thoughts?

I don’t have a single working SpeedyBee esc. They all seem to crap out after a dozen flights