A great, simplistic video that gave me the first clue that the Delco alternator was the culprit regarding the battery dying on my 1948 Ford 8N that'd been converted to 12V. (I took the alternator off & had a local starter/alternator shop rebuild it, and the voltmeter on the dash immediately showed it to be charging on the next startup.) I really appreciate the fact that this was demonstrated on an old Ford!

I had an issue with the front distributor as it would break a lead from torsion bar movement so I took off the front axle and welded a 1/4 “ steel stop plate on the axle both sides to limit the movement of the torsion bars. Works Great.

Good video. All my tractors use GM 1-wire alternators as they are the easiest to change over to and most economical.

6v, positive ground,8n ford tractor just about drove my electrician dad nuts the first time he worked on it 😆

I had the same problem with a one wire alternator on a John Deere 350 dozer, I replaced it with a 10SI 3 wire alternator, problem solved.

Aprecio el tiempo y la información que nos compartes. DIOS TE BENDICE. Mi Agradecimiento.

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Can you make those "mini" Denso alternators be made to excite at low RPM or immediately upon startup ?

Just ordered an alternator - exactly what I've been looking for to fix my problem. Thanks Good vid. (don't tell anyone I'll be using GM parts on my ford tractor) 😉

Great video, learned something new.

Hi, I have a question regarding the alternator on my car. Is it normal to be idling at 750 RPM, not have any loads on, have 13.5V at the alternator, then turn on my headlights, and the voltage drops to 11.9V at alternator and stays there until I turn the headlights off or I increase the RPM? Is this a fair test for the alternator or should I be testing it at 2000 to 2500 RPM?

Is there enough room to move the alternator in towards the engine ? That's the one thing I can't stand is, not only seeing an alternator on an older tractor, but also how it hangs so far out.

Good to know about that.

That is a great video! I have a Ford 2N tractor that I cant seem to hook up a 1 wire alternator thru an ammeter, I run the alt.(63 amp self exciting with a internal voltage regulator) 10 gauge wire to 1 side of the ammeter and then run a wire from the other side of the ammeter to the battery, and that does not work, sparks fly when I try to hook up the ground wire to the battery!!! the tractor has been changed over to a 12 volt negative ground and electronic ignition with an external coil that was purchased at yesterdays tractor. The coil is mounted to the side of the alt. because that is the only place I can find to put it, could that make a difference? The ignition is a switch now just like a car would have because you would just about have to stand on the button to push it down, the new switch has a bat. Ign. acc. and switch terminals on it and I am using a starter solenoid and there is a ballast resistor. The Tractor starts fine and runs smooth but I cant go any where until I know that the Battery is being charged. can you help me out with this? PLEASE

That's very nice which way does your alternator need to turn left or right to produce electricity that's my question thank you

Excellent video

Can’t you connect a wire from the ACC on the ignition switch to (port #1 exciter) and make the alternator start charging?

Great video. Just purchased one.

I have a problem with my one wire alternator . When I start my engine, the volt gage is at 11, the belt squeals until I rev the engine and the volt gage is at 13 volts? What is causing the alternator to lock up at low voltage?

Changed my 600 Ford tractor from generator to One wire alternator and the ballast resistor burns up bought the coil with eight ohm resistor and coil heats up and shut off tractor any suggestions on what I’ve got going on?

Ok after replacing the battery on my 48 8N the fellow that I purchased it from last fall told me he sold it to me with a brand new battery, so i pulled the Alternater and after not having any luck finding an exact match i went to AutoZone and purchased a one wire that would match and hooked the hot from the alt to one side of-the amp meter , just like before , still no charge the Belt looks alittle large for the pully but seems to work just fine Now am i supposed to run a little wire (jumper) from the hot post of the alt to the open leads on the alt and not do anything with the ground post on the alternater? Toget it to excite?

Great video, do you sell one of these alternator for 1952 8N, Thks

Thank you Larry that was very informative

so with the cheapo alternator just run the engine up till its charging then drop it back to idle? sweet. Just watch the gauge then with the one wire alternator. Seems once excited it holds on to charging to not waste more fuel. The question I have is will the cheaper alternator drop out after you walk away to work on something?

May I ask what the difference in internals of the alternator to make it charge at a lower rpm?

I have a 42 2N that has been changed to 12 volt. But on my tractor, when I start it, I have to jump a wire at the alternator to get it to charge. It does not matter the engine RPM. If that little wire is not jumped at the plug, it will not charge. Been through 3 of them so far (others burned up due to dirt and grass getting in it either shorting them out or messing up the bearings). What did you do special to your alternator to get it to charge right at start up?

Will an alternator work on a Cushman Truckster, since I want to add more lights and leave the generator on as the starter only?

Thanks for making the video! I have a quick question for you, i have a PowerMaster Alternator 58302. It's a 220 amp 14.8 volt power alternator 2 pin style - L/F. I had it originally hooked up as a one wire alternator because that's what it said in the add when i bought it but have since found out it's a OE style unit. I've only gotten 13.4-13.8volts. How do i make this thing work?? It's a super expensive alternator and brand new. Do i need to change the regulator out? It's going from 13.8, 11, 9, 0, than back to 13.8 on the voltmeter then on repeat every few seconds, I have no ECU. Any info would be super helpful!

nice to know. i like the alternator bracket is that for sale yet for a 48 8n?you should sell the whole conversion kit

Thanks you avoided me a issue

SO... where does one get your custom built alternator? thanks

what type on low rpm alternatoor

Great

Wow, Can i used that on Toyota 4runner 2006?

My car is the same way, tap the accelerator and once it is charging then you can run the air conditioner. My pickup needs revved even more and the battery will go dead if I dont disconnect it.

good

2:42 OK '' there,....it's charging...."" Alternators, with integral voltage regulators, have a '' threshold '' voltage point. Once this level is reached, then it would/should stay charging, for a period of time, until that 'threshold '' is no longer sustained/ either by the load, on output circuit, or a drop in rpm= OR BOTH.

Put a smaller pulley on the alternator to speed it up at low RPM.

I thought this video was on how to wire a one wire alternator, such as with a diagram showing proper installation.

v nice

It would be great for a wind turbine put three or four of those low rev alternator s on them to charge batteries.!!!

Just install a smaller pulley on the alternator.

Just hook up the excite wire to the aux on the key,,, that kicks it right in also... They all need excited one way or another,,, more so if they sit for months at a time... I don't think paying out more $$$ for your Alt adds up,,, not any better than the one you took off... This amounts to a scam if your selling them to people for that reason... idk man...

Use a Denso from a junkyard Toyota, problem solved for $25.

massive time waster, i am idiot to have watched for something to learn