Aren’t we lucky ,Bill keeps all these locos running ,plus we get to see them perform flawlessly on a layout……….the memories of the toy shop layout come streaming back,gazing through the window …….excellent,thanks Bill.

It was nice to meet you at model rail at the SECC. Hope you enjoyed it too.

This was the locomotive that stopped my participation in 'the hobby' ! In 1978, I got one for my birthday and it was 'a dog' ! Among the disappointments were 'A big blob in the cab number, smoke deflectors that would fall off, tender body that would not stay 'clipped in', handrails that didn't push in far enough and finally the electrical connection from the loco to the tender kept bending and breaking contact ! I really didn't get on with tender drive and switched to N gauge with a 'good value ' train set with a class 31 (which burnt it's motor, melting it's body) and that was that until about 1998 when I found myself with plenty of cash so I started to collect trains once more but 'looking back' I never dared to actually use them much. Incidentally I still have 'the Duchess' but it suffered crumbling main drive wheels (which I got replaced) but she is still 'a dog' !

Nice one Bill, it always looks a very majestic model. Your getting some great shots of trains running with so much of the Railway now landscaped. I do like looking for the bits of humour around, the engineers watching the locos pulling out of the shed, the sheep, and seagulls on roofs ect all makes a interesting Railway. Thanks for taking the time to explain what you do, it does help when I try to keep my old models running. Take care xx

Hi Bill, just been given one of these a (non-runner) will be able to sort it out after watching this. Thanks for all your work explaining the problems they can have. Brian.

Thanks, Bill for some good pointers. I have an identical loco with an almost identical problem. I have cured a bit but did not know about the Pony connection problem. That could just be the bit that will cure mine completely. Thanks for another good instructive video. Barry.Devon

A true classic, always looks so majestic pulling a long rake of coaches. Fantastic work yet again and good advice, as always. Can’t wait for the layout up date, thankyou so much Bill. All best Marc from Leighton Buzzard

The layout is getting to look really good 👍

Another brilliant repair Bill. I enjoy the running session just as much as the actual repair.

Just like old cars these models can be repaired 👍 well done once again Bill

The first loco I ever owned. With regard to the springs in the motor, I tend to leave about 1mm between the contact and end of spring as I find that makes for better running. Too tight, and I think the brushes are pushed too hard onto the commutator. I'd be interested in hearing your thoughts on the matter. Unfortunately, when it comes to the old Mainline locos, there seems little choice but to screw the contacts in tight because of the design of the motors. Again though, I'd like to hear your thoughts on this too. Keep the videos coming please!

Dear Bill, another interesting video. Regarding the rather convoluted electrical connections between the locomotive chassis, trailing bogie, and tender ( whilst I appreciate that you concentrate on restoring the as is design ) may I respectfully suggest that consideration be given to supplementing the existing current collection arrangement with the addition of Micro JST 1.25 Connector Plugs (which Margate Hornby use with the S15 & V Schools locomotives ), Mini Micro JST 1.0 plugs are also available, which may be a better, more compact solution. These plugs come with +itive &.-ive cable leads, so in your above example , one plug can be connected directly to the locomotive power input, with the cable being threaded through the top of the trailing bogie, and the plug end attached to the coupler connecting bar on the trailing bogie. ( I use a cable tie. ) The other half of the paired Connector can then connect to the trailing bogie Connector, and the cable run to, and attached to the tender motor.. This is intended to supplement, not replace, the existing arrangement. I have also found that the phosphor bronze finger connector on the locomotive trailing bogie can sometimes get loose, in which case I have wrapped a piece of soft brass wire around the inner end ( that is on top of the trailing bogie, and therefore under the loco cab ) and spot soldered this wire to the phosphor bronze finger connector. Whilst this Margate Hornby design as come into a lot of criticism due to its fragility. in my view this is probably due to constant joining and separating ( yes. I know it is intended as a toy ) but if placed, and left on the track, this is less of a problem. ( By the way the prototype also has this problem with Sharfenburg Couplers, which, despite appearances, are not really intended to be regularly attached and separated, your Sharfenberg equipped train comes with a train suppliers warning to limit attach and detach to the bare minimum. ) If it possible, consideration should also be given to supplementary current collection via the tender . I accept that this may not always be possible with Tri Ang, Margate Hornby Ringfield tender drive, but increased current collection reduces the possibility of interrupted power collection, Regards to all from Oz

Another one returned to active duty. The running shots on your layout are superb. Great to see two icons of the golden age of steam duelling on your tracks. Don't know if you recall saving my crimson Hornby Doublo City of London a while ago? It's been running so well that I acquired some more Doublo-coupled tinplate coaches, and she hauled 11 of them! She looked fabulous, gracefully powering down the straight. I hope Thornton enjoys his returnee as much as I am continuing to enjoy mine.

Fantastic Bill! I have one of them upstairs which has never run properly. So it will receive the full treatment now. Mine has the working bulb but disconnected because the engine runs slowly, Had thought of installing led's instead. Thanks for another good one.

Thanks Bill for another repair and all the knowledge you you pass on

Another number one repair job video Bill it’s great watching these videos

One of my favourite Locos. I have the exact same model it came to me as a none runner. Thanks to watching your videos Bill in the most part she now runs OK although not perfect, I put it down to age but...... I'm going to check the spring contact tomorrow pretty sure I just put it back in without checking it's condition. Thanks again Bill.

Nice video again. Might just get my Duchess of Sutherland sorted now. Hope to create a decent layout in small room once I clear it out My Princess Victoria runs great on my old track now. You did great job Bill Cheers.

Another great vid! Thanks.

Thanks for sharing this video, I have the same problem on 2 tender drive A4's, I'll tackle them after watching the video, John

Another one saved great video Bill

Congrats to 10k subscribers Bill :)

lovely

Nice repair as always. I may of asked before I am sure you have said before but, what is it you use for your 'schusing'? Looks to be WD40 but if so which one?

Great advice re the stoppy-startyitis. I have this version with the smokebox light - mine used to look quite convincing with it flickering through the double chimney but it seems to be on constantly now. Can anyone advise how it should be?

Hi Bill! Nice job. Can you tell me where you got your mini-vacuum cleaner, please? Best wishes from Wirral, as ever.

I could never get my head around tender drives, though I built motors there with a universal drive to the loco mainframes. With so much firebox and boiler, why put the motor/gears all back there? My ancient Hornmy Duchess of Atholl (pre-1948) had a vertical three pole motor comfortably in the die cast body.

have you ever tried converting this chassis back to a loco drive. the chassis looks like it has provisions for a motor bracket and has a slot for the drive gear .