Thanks. Sure thing. At the top left of the screen next to the "Printer" there is a cog wheel icon. It is located directly below the "Device" menu text. Click that and scroll down to the Creality printer section. Choose the model that most closely resembles yours and it should change the bed template automatically for you.

Hi there. Happy to try and help. In Orca, make sure in the preview to switch over to the speed view. This will show you the relative speeds per layer/structure and can help identify where you might be able to make some changes. Are you printing a single part or multiple parts on the bed?

@@fischer3d Single parts, I will take a look at speed view. thank you

Cura times are way off anyway. So if orca is close to the actual print time its not as far off as it shows

I don't see one floating around, but they may add one in the next release. Honestly, the fastest path at this point might be to select the existing Neptune 4 profile that exists then just edit the print volume in the profile. Once an official profile is released you could add that one.

You can't as Orca requires a part of your object always touching the build plate. The workaround is to add a primitive and assamble it with your print. That way, the primitive is touching the build plate, and you can move your print into a "floating" position. At least, that is what I found out.

Seems very strange. Will be hard to troubleshooting over youtube comments. let's setup some time to have a zoom and look it over. Can you pick a time on my calendar and we can set a zoom call. I have some time today if you want to dig into it. calendly.com/fischer3d/1-on-1

bed temps are related to your filament settings in Orca. Next to your filament click the "edit preset" icon. On the first tab, scroll down to the bed temp section.

@@fischer3d brilliant thanks again

I’ve got sv07plus running klipper

You can try copy/pasting this in the end g-code box. Do a small test print and make sure you watch it at the end in case anything funky happens. I found it here, so try this at your own risk. medium.com/@drjonesy/sovol-sv07-plus-setup-7303e083f74b G91 ;Relative positioning G1 E-2 F2700 ;Retract a bit G1 E-2 Z0.2 F2400 ;Retract and raise Z G1 Z1 ;Raise Z more G90 ;Absolute positionning G1 X0 Y200 ;Present print M106 S0 ;Turn-off fan M104 S0 ;Turn-off hotend M140 S0 ;Turn-off bed M84 X Y E ;Disable all steppers but Z

That depends. What printer do you have? You likely don't want it to go home (if that's the front left corner of your machine). There's a very high likelihood that the head and/or x gantry will smash the model you just printed. Generally at the end of a print you want the hotend to raise up and the bed to move forward (assuming you have something like and ender 3 / bed-slinger type machine). Next to your printer name in Orca, click the "Edit Presets" button. Click on the Machine G-code tab and look for the "Machine end G-Code" section. This is where you can specify what the machine does at the end of the print. Let me know what machine you have and maybe i can point you in the right direction.

@@fischer3d printer g-code in orca says print_end

not sure it's possible at this point. Orca supports Marlin and Klipper firmware, but I believe most resins printers use alternate firmware.

Audio is too low?

no worries. What type of printer do you have? What nozzle size are you using? First thing to check is under the Quality Tab, scroll to the "Line Width" section. If you're printing with a 0.4 nozzle all your width settings should be in that neighborhood. You could see settings ranging from 0.4, 0.42, 0.5, etc.. If you've got something that is drastically below your nozzle width, that would be my guess is the culprit.

@@fischer3d you are exactly correct!! Hahah!!! For some reason I was thinking I was printing at 0.02..... so yeah I adjusted it to 0.4 which is what my nozzle is and bam! Works perfectly!!! Much appreciated my dude! I guess I was trying to print items for an ANT rebellion ahahaha!!

It's a fork of Bambu. Bambu is a fork of Prusa

I get that but when you branch off another product typically they make the interface look a little different but this one looks identical. Like slapping a ford emblem on a Ferrari. not complaining, just saying it like I see it :) @@fischer3d

because it is bambu slicer

@@MrBrianwilliams1980 Orca slicer is an open source community project that adds many new features to bambu slicer (which is itself a fork of prusaslicer, which is itself a fork of slic3r). The UI in bambu is good, it would be silly to change it; prusa didn't change the UI when they forked slic3r for example. This how open source works.