Great video, it´s not only tme but also the quality and failure rate. If you print object by object you are better off with failure rate and surface quality due to stringing

What happens if you have 2 colors on the top? The only reason my surface looks weird w/o ironing is because it has to work around the other color so the print lines go one way for awhile, then it moves to work around something and when they are all done, you can see differences in them (because it wasn't continuous printing from one side to the other). I'm guessing since there is still flow happening, it's going to do something similar when ironing?

Nice, but I wish you will move your self to a corner and not block half a screen

great video. I have 6 tall thin parts to print. I want to print them close together and share the supports. Is this possible? In essence they would come off the bed as one solid and just need seperating. I figure joining them together with the support would make them for secure and stop them falling over

Thank you for this and other guides in using Orca Slicer! I'm new to Orca and this is helping tremendously to get Orca working replacing my other slicer I was using.

It's good to see that Orca slicer (or others for that matter) are starting to incorporate auto-arrange with sequential printing. I see Orca has a good start, but still needs more improvements. I regularly sequential print parts higher than the gantry, and you can get way more on the plate than Orca can automatically arrange if you position the parts manually. When I tried to get Orca (version 2.1.1) to arrange the four part in my video below it put three of them off the buildplate, but as you can see from the video they can be printed sequentially without crashing into anything. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/eqybiJyj1KjOlHU.htmlsi=nRbbVzSWOiPcAIES

Thanks for the explanation !

Great video, quickly answered my question. Two suggestions, look at the camera and stop playing with your hair.

No matter how much retracton i put still hairy very frustrating

Weird how Orca has monotonic patterns as top/bottom patterns but not for ironing.

So I know this video was done 10 months or so ago but I tried the process you describe to change the filament at a particular layer. The first try just blew right on through the layer where I expected it to pause and allow me to change (and no beeps either). Then I tried adding into my machine (Ender v3) profile Manual Filament Change under Multimaterial. No joy there either. Now I am trying M25 under the Change filament G-code also in the machine profile. If that doesn't work, do I have to insert the gcode manually at that layer (you can't do both the filament change and something else when doing it this way)? Orca Slicer 2.1.0. Thanks in advance for any tips!

So I’m breaking in a new extruder and the stringing is bad, and when I run this, the stringing gets worse as the retraction increases. Can’t imagine why or how that happens.

never mind, I should watch the whole video before posting.

I can't even figure out how to enter the bed size for a printer that is not listed

It was good of you to draw a curvy S shape with your painted seam. It's the perfect representation of me trying to draw a straight line in Orca. I wish they would add a line tool.

What if my results were opposite? I have little to no stringing on the bottom of the towers but a lot up top.

So this test is only to check for strings between the two towers? It has nothing to do with the print quality of the actual towers?

Nice. But what to do, when the tolerance test just fails? Which parameter you should have a look at?

Thank you, That was easy.

very helpful video.

Thanks so much for your tutorials! You explain everything very clearly. Definitely helping me get up to speed with Orca Slicer, thanks!

hello and thanks for your video, im new at this, a week ago i bought an ender 3 v3 es ,and i am about to quit and sell it, please help me, ive done lots of tests, including this one, and i got the same ammount of strings on every single level, is there anything you can tell me to fix this please.

Thanks for the quick/straight forward video! Great feature.

The retraction count is missing in that slicer and this could be a problem.

Another awesome video. Thank you. Do you have a text video? Do you know how to curve text to a circular pattern? I cant seem to figure it out.

The side reference feature solved my need in about 5 seconds -- much appreciated!

Thanks! Was looking for that "Avoiding crossing wall" option, Cura has the excellent Combing Mode, but couldn't find it in Orca.

He set "Z Hop when retracting" to 0 from 0.4 and changed the Z hop type to normal. But I wouldn't recommend that setting.

Nice Find!

I get a cleaner print if the interface z distance is 0mm. (when using dissimilar material)

You da MVC man! (Most Valuable Content) on Orca Slicer. Great stuff & you don’t waste our time.

Thank you! Of all the videos I watched to solve my thread and gap problem, your video was the one that helped me the most. I started using Orcaslicer but at the same time I changed the mouthpiece and other things, a big mistake of making many modifications together... I couldn't adjust the retraction because it didn't disable the z-hop. I subscribed to your channel, greetings!

Hey! Brand new to this, I was wondering how we can set the z-offset in orca?

Damn thank you. Searched few minutes for Vase mode but some dumbass named it Spiral vase in Orca -.-

Very helpful, short and sweet, and to the point. Much appreciated.

If you use a different material for supports like PETG, you can basically set the top Z distance to 0 in most cases, this results in a significantly better surface quality at the supported face. Also, as already mentioned, the purge tower reduces/prevents the discolorations, on the cost of longer print-times and more material waste. In your example this might lead to the PETG-layer stick to the surface when you remove the supports, but it should still be easy to remove since it doesn't bond with the PLA. While the AMS is very convenient, I still try to minimize material-changes, since they take a lot of time and produce a lot of waste. Thus, I also try to design parts in a way that as little supports are needed as possible. A function that I miss in the orca-slicer is to change the time when materials get changed. When I use PETG for support-faces, let's say for 2 Layers, it always prints the supports first and the part second. It would make much more sense if it would print the part first at the first layer where the PETG is used, then switch to the PETG, print the supports for this layer, go up to the next layer, print the supports for that and only then change back to the normal material to print the part. This would cut the material changes by half...

HOLY!!!

A few things to know, when using an interface layer with a different material, make sure to have a significant flush on the filament change. That line of darker material you see is PETG in your PLA, which will make that part extremely weak (generally). Good choice not to use a purge tower, as I find they often fall apart when using different materials. Also, note that was a perfect test subject for the PETG interface. Other shapes will be significantly more troublesome. I found anything more than a flat single layer ( or 2 layer) interface was more tricky. Meaning, geometry that makes the interface curve from one height to another are highly problematic. The final thing I liked was no air gap when using different materials. Also, I like using a larger XY air gap. I believe the default it .35mm but I generally go to .50 to 1.00mm. This really helps with removal for the same material support with very little quality issues. But note that some geometry will have issues with too much XY gap.

I just tried the hole feature and had difficulties using it on a curved surface. I couldn't get it to place the hole 90 degrees, it wanted to follow the curve.

Thanks for your video. I'm about to do a big print in PETG with the top surface facing down in contact with the support to reduce time by half. It seems by looking at your video that orca slicer does not provide miracles in its settings. Since I print in PETG I was wondering if the PETG CF was maybe a better choice in this regard to leave a nicer surface finish once support removed. Any idea? Also , Is there any way to set ironing on the layer just after last support layer ?

If possible to use .8 Nozzle. I have Ender 3 V2 printer

I wish you addressed the seam scarf feature because there is information out there with different settings. I use 100% seam gap and contour with no seam.

Thanks man this helped me a great deal!

Thanks! This was helpful. I appreciate the quick and concise way you explain things.

Nice! Thank you!

Really great tip because I had no idea that 2 positive threads was even a thing

Great video, sorry but I didn’t find this options for the seam! I’m using Ender 3 S1 Pro

great info man thank you so much

3:45 - What I did, since I already had one, was take a digital microscope (theyre like $20) and look for any holes or under-layers poking between gaps in the filament lines... i think its a great practice. Then just scrap the ones that have those and feel-test the rest..

In order to avoid supports, I tried polyhole on holes that need to be printed in a vertical orientation. It doesn't appear to do anything. I was hoping the holes would be converted into polygons that eliminate (or reduce) the need for supports. Rats...