Orca Slicer Reduce stringing in prints and use Modifiers to selectively modify portions of your part

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Orca Slicer Reduce stringing in prints and use Modifiers to selectively modify portions of your part

Рет қаралды 20,320

Fischer 3D

Күн бұрын

Orca Slicer Reduce stringing in prints and use Modifiers to selectively modify portions of your part.

Пікірлер: 29

@thepoorboychannel Жыл бұрын

I just transitioned from Cura to Orca slicer yesterday, and I’m blown away. I love it!!! Bye,bye Cura, hello new friend. Keep the great Orca content coming. Subbed.

@raytitone1583 Жыл бұрын

same! i just recently switched. liking orca they need a measuring tool like prusa but other then that its great

@AnthonyBohn Жыл бұрын

been forcing cura to work for me for 4 years. recently got a bambu, noticed the similarities in the slicers between bambu and orca (they are forks) and I took a lot of what the bambu uses and brought it over to my ender/cr10s. I was BLOWN away how much improvement i was able to achieve from even the built in profiles. Once i got it dialed, my quality is almost on par with the bambu and the speed is very respectably averaging 125mms with 1500-2500 acceleration numbers. I can push it faster but i also increase my chances for failure. current profiles are resulting in a 99% success rate, and brilliant finish quality. Now if only i could keep the rH of my garage down under 50 we would be set! Waking up to strings is sad. This video has shed some insight for me, but many of my prints are multi piece or multi part so i end up moving from piece to piece which is where i string really badly. Great video, new sub here as well :D

@Faysalariss Жыл бұрын

How come? I switched as well but I found it really annoying how I couldn’t search for my settings since I was transferring my settings and then the part I sliced had lots of extra travel even thought it was a hollow cylinder which caused an immense amount of straining. Cura did no such thing. I really want to switch since it better but idk how much benefit there actually is

@marcusjuco 11 ай бұрын

same just stared 3d printing a week ago and just download Orca yesterday i'm already in love. check out my live stream been streaming non stop

@camilocortes6315 7 ай бұрын

Same here, i fully calibrate my creality and i love It! Goodbye cura

@RocktCityTim Жыл бұрын

Love your Orca dives. It's a completely new way to look at slicing and printing.

@3DThingg 9 ай бұрын

Thank you! selective modification to part of a print was perfect for my current project where I needed more infill in only parts of it. Keep up the good work. Would love if you could get into speed control & deceleration for fast printers like Adventurer 5M Pro & bambu ..

@danieljaeggli 3 ай бұрын

Please explain all the fan settings; and thanks for the helpful tips.

@soniccinos 2 ай бұрын

Thanks! Was looking for that "Avoiding crossing wall" option, Cura has the excellent Combing Mode, but couldn't find it in Orca.

@JojoKraken 6 ай бұрын

Great videos, keep them coming. please get a better mic

@PaulDominguez Жыл бұрын

Nice tutorial and straight to the point

@nicholasherbst9821 2 ай бұрын

great info man thank you so much

@ZilenceEdits 5 ай бұрын

working on tuning my Vyper with new hotend and the only thing that fixed it was tune, tune, tune, and then olive oil.

@CindyL4261 21 күн бұрын

it's a year since you recorded this video and my printer is a small, Core XY- DIY build- printer (Rolohaun's Rook). In OrcaSlicer, I use the Voron 0 for my printer profile as it's the same size. Anyway, the stringing is horrible and when I went to check my "travel" settings, they no longer have it in its own category....I see it under "acceleration" with the default "7000" mm/s to the 2nd power, and under "Jerk (XY)' as "12mm/s".....and honestly I have no idea if I need to increase or decrease either of these....I barely understand what Jerk even is....

@fischer3d 21 күн бұрын

Interesting. I reset my printer to a voron 0.4 in Orca and I see travel speed under the speed tab just above acceleration. here are a couple of other areas to look at that promote stringing: 1. Retraction amount (What's your current retraction set to 1mm, 2mm?) 2. Print temps. Might need to drop a few degrees 3. Travel speed (boost it up) 4. z-hop, when enabled can promote stringing. This was more of a problem with Marlin machine that ran slower. Less of an issue with faster machines. Acceleration and Jerk will have little impact on your retraction, if any. Those have more to do with how fast the head moves while printing. Acceleration is how fast it gets up to it's max speed after turning a corner or starting a new layer (straight0line performance). Jerk is how abrupt a direction change is. So, how fast does it make a right or left turn while printing. If you were printing with a Marlin based firmware machine like an Ender 3 or a CR-10, I might suggest we look at accel/jerk, but with you machine maybe focus on items 1 and 2 above first.

@CindyL4261 21 күн бұрын

@@fischer3d Thank you! Concentrating on 1 & 2 was exactly what I did this morning and I was able to eliminate almost all the stringing. I dropped the temp of PLA by 10 degrees, set my retraction to 1.5 and upped my travel speed. By my 3rd print of experimenting with settings…I had massive improvement. Will watch the rest of your Orca Slicer series because I realized there’s still so much I still need to learn. Thx again. 😊

@SnoringVids 7 ай бұрын

Avoid crossing wall that's what I'm looking for! Just switched to Orca. For your stringing problem have you cleared your hot end lately? Shoved the ptfe tubing all the way through?

@fischer3d 7 ай бұрын

Thanks. Yeah, I had actually switched over to a direct drive on my Ender, so a lot of the classic "bowden" causes were solved. Later I found that z-hop was turned on by default in Orca, also causing excessive stringing. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/e9iAhLSUt7fblZc.html So probably an update on this video, if you are still having stringing issues you should verify if z-hop is turned on or not.

@SnoringVids 7 ай бұрын

@@fischer3d awesome thank you! I just switched to Orca and your tips have been super helpful. Subscribed

@jack_oniel 6 ай бұрын

nice video subbed

@KandiceKoon988 11 ай бұрын

I have an Ender-3 S1 direct drive and want to make the switch from cura to orca, can i do this without klipper or raspberry pi etc? It says i need the printers ip address, where is that found? Give me a list of steps to follow lbvs. Thank you!

@fischer3d 11 ай бұрын

Is your printer currently network connected? Klipper and R-Pi are not required to make the switch to Orca. Once you've added the printer and you slice your file you can export the gcode to a sd card and print from there. Load your model, adjust your slice settings, hit the "slice plate" button to preview the print. There is a "print" button in the top-right of the screen. Use the down arrow next to the button and select "Export Gcode". You can load that to a sd card and print that way.

@MrJonesproduction 9 ай бұрын

hi i havent seen anyone talking and showing how ironing is going with orca..

@fischer3d 9 ай бұрын

Good call. I'll investigate.

@darkracer1252 5 ай бұрын

this guy looks like ryan renolds.

@MrMistyEyes 10 ай бұрын

have tried all these tricks and then some, i had no strining when i was using cura, switch to orca and CAN NOT rid of it. its constant and the worst ive seen ever. there is no way i can get this to stop. im on Ender 3 Neo with 2mm retraction at 50 mm/s using PLA, i have tried changing the temp, speed, fan speed, z hop, z hop type, z hop off, wiping, no wiping, and it will not stop.

@fischer3d 10 ай бұрын

Is that a direct drive or Bowden tube setup?