... Priceless In the future, grease up the threads of your hub tool; it'll perform better and last longer Thanks for your contribution

You have no idea how much this video helped!! Had the same problem and couldn't figure it out. Thank you 🙌

Boy I can definitely relate to how you feel. Working out in a cold garage, snot dripping down your nose, all out of breath frustrated as hell, but determined to get the job done. I tell you though.. I've had some tough drums and rotors. I've even broken a breaker bar with a 4 foot pipe on a stubborn axle nut, but this video definitely takes props. Well done sir!

Many thanks to you Sir! I'm about to push the Amazon button on an OTC hub puller. I am the original owner of a 1998 F150 4WD Lariat Flareside std cab pickup with the right CV axle seized in the hub assembly. Discovered this issue in the course of replacing upper & lower ball joints on this vehicle with 111K miles. Got both uppers and left lower changed, but the right lower ball joint change prevented by the seized axle. I tried the local auto parts stores' loaner hub puller tools and they were all utter schitt, so now I'm buying the highest rated hub puller I could find. This has got to be the finest testament to an OTC tool ever committed to video. OTC should pay you for this wonderful advertisement! This is real gem of a YT video. Thanks again Joe.

You've got my vote on not giving up well done sir other than the frustration of buying/ordering hard to find tools and parts you have gained very valuable knowledge on this repair

Hears a tip. When the bolt on the puller gets tight put on a doner socket over the forcing screw and hit it with a hammer. That goes with anything using a puller or press.

This is one of the most painful videos I've ever seen in my entire life....definitely not an easy task.!!

I do appreciate you for this video It's the video I spent 11/2 hrs looking for I'm calling for a ride home thank you

Thank you so much for this! It helped tremendously and save me a ton of money. It took me about an hour to get it out with this method after spending a couple days on it. I was able to save the axle too.

I had to keep watching just to see if he got it. How many of you mechanics were feeling more anxious the longer it went? 14:29 is like a mechanical orgasm !!!! Way to hang in there dude!!! I would have been cussing up a blue storm around the 10 minute mark, then danced a little jig once it finally came loose. (Proven fact, the more you swear, the faster the hub ....bolt, nut, screw .... whatever.... breaks loose.)

THAT job would make a Preacher cuss LOL

I really do appreciate your video and non stop footage.

Thanks. I've been building a 99 grand prix with over 290,000 miles and am at that point. The hub just stares at me. Glad you've crossed that bridge.

might want to invest in some air tools!!! I have one of those pullers and the impact was a lifesaver

I had a seized axle finally got it out with a hub puller like u did. But the problem was that in my effort to remove it nicked one of the splines inside the hub. So now I had to get a new hub, but than I questioned if while pulling the hub off, the race on the bearing comes out, I'll have to replace the bearing too so than I got a new bearing.....an easy job turned into a nightmare for me

Never could understand why the auto makers would not use an anti seize compound during assembly. On key parts e.g. Hubs, bleeder screws & the like.

That axle coming loose is like winning the lottery lol.

Food for thought. When removing anything with a puller or press, find a spot on the hub face, knuckle, or whatever that is holding the part captive and after you have pressure on the part to be moved, smack that hub face, knuckle, etc like it owes you money. Apply more pressure and smack it again. Some people even smack the end of the forcing screw. Minimum two pound hammer. Penetrating oil on the part to be moved and the forcing screw also helps. I like watching these videos where people overcome challenges.

Bro, I went through every emotion watching this video. I'm in the process of replacing my front wheel bearings and I had the unfortunately realization that I don't have the right tool to pull the hub assembly off the axle. Thanks for this full walk through and the details of your experience removing the hubs!

I tried a hammer drill that worked five years ago on the passenger side cv axle. It did not work on the driver’s side cv axle today. Gonna order the hammer wrench as a last resort. Great video!

great workout and i know for sure you're glad you saved that extra money, must feel good.

Why not put a pipe over the hammer wrench?

I remember when wheel bearings were simple and took, maybe, half an hour to replace. Including the inner races. I guess this is what "progress" looks like. I just wish that progress wasn't so difficult, time consuming, and much more expensive.

Hey, man , I am going to take off my 92 Honda captive rotor soon and I thought it is tough before seeing yours! Thank you.

I have worked on my 2009rav 4 rotors and hub bearing. Each one has been a beast to work on. The front pasenger axle and bearing seperation is testing me. Good video. Thanks

Good deal...your persistence paid off!!

That was like watching a good suspense movie!

That is a very difficult job but an impact gun and a air hammer makes it much easier. Turning the bolt on the puller with an impact helps to jar the bond apart. Also occasionally go in between the fingers of the puller with an air hammer and jar the end of the axle

I've had many stuck bearing hub assembly's.First make sure all the bolts that hold the hub on are removed. (Usually there's 3) Then Remove the axle nut and soak the splines with PB Blaster. heat the front of the hub with a propane/map/acetylene torch in a circular motion around the axle shaft. if it doesn't come off repeat. I have soaked them and heated for 2 days on and off but they always break loose. Patients! Also no expensive puller is needed, I flip the brake rotor over and beat on it with a lead hammer. Hope this helps.

We've all been there!! I like the logic, buy tools and risk wrecking something yourself before you pay the mechanic to wreck it for you. Then you have the tools for next time.

Same situation but in my case I Replaced The axel the knuckle the hub and bearing as a whole piece before That you, have to disconnect the entire knuckle from the car then pull the axel grabbing the knuckle without removing the axel nut . Then install a used but good conditions axel,knuckle ,hub ,bearing, as one piece From a junk yard cheap solution less headache less stress. I live in a apt building so I can’t do mechanic job also working in the streets you may get a ticket so I just adjusted to my situation and I found it easy

Always hard is good job, well done, I hope you are well

Wow, good job, sick and everything. I would have given up and removed the knuckle. Either put that on my 20K press or removed the axle with the bearing and replaced both.

That ... was ... AWESOME !!! Thx.

i did my wheel bear hub a few months ago using a puncher and hammer to lossen it then a gear puller with an impact wrench to do the rest.

i have same one, you have to use iumpact gun, then wack it with a hammer on the stud of the puller

I knew he's no quitter.

Thanks for sharing this video.

He starts working at 6:29

Sounds like you need lube on the tool. 3 feet should work, one on every other lug puts you in the center. Another aid, hit the screw of the tool every so often to pop the axle some and remove the pent up stress.

Thanks for the video I appreciate it I have the HD version but have yet to use it but you gave me the idea to buy the other set thanks again also good job this axles can really be a pan in the ass

Bought hub buster - $110 i spent is really worth it - i hit it with 5lb steel mallet 5x and hub goes off .

awesome video, I wanted to see the whole hub com out, oh well.

Those axles sure can become tight and extremely difficult to remove. However, in the video on this particular occasion, the main problem was the wrong choice of tools and method of removal. The puller is absolutely necessary, of that there is no question. This was the only correct decision. The first mistake was failure to heat the axle housing. Not supporting the lower control arm was the second mistake. This allowed the suspension to move with each strike of the hammer. This absorbed much of the shock, which operation of this type relies on. The third mistake was to use a 1/2" socket and breaker bar, together with a cheater bar. The correct hand tools to use would have been a 3/4" impact socket installed on a short 3/4" extension, together with a solid 90 deg, bend handle, extended with a suitable cheater bar. The short extension would be needed so the tool string could be supported by a jack stand in order to reduce tendency for the socket to tilt on the pulling screw. The remover pulling screw itself would be required to be liberally lubricated with a suitable heavy duty grease. (NOT WD 40 or any other similar product). This is to prevent galling of the thread on both screw and puller body. Had methods as outlined above been utilised, the job would have been much simpler, faster and definitely considerably safer. One more very important aspect. He was kneeling in direct line of the pulling screw, while the tool was under extreme strain and loading. In the unfortunate event of a component failure, the result would have been devastating. Apologies for a long posting. Cheers from a D. Eng. in Indonesia.

Good job man!!

Does that put undue stress on the pinion, and carrier gears? I would have used my Makita cutting wheel and sliced that hub down the middle just before it would start to cut the axel. That hub would have come off like butter. Cudos on your repair though. Lots of elbow grease. Another thought would to use a blowtorch, turn that hub glowing red and then use the puller.

For quicker job, Torque Multiplier is your friend. Not to mention a bigger impact airgun would make short work of this.

My heart is with you I cannot get this rear yaris hub off. If I kept hammering the neighbours will complain.

be sure to apply anti-seize to the splines when re-installing in case you have to replace the hub again so day

The right tool formula

thats a strong tool to take that hammering

Going thru the same mess with my truck smh this might be the answer i been looking for

You created a mechanical impact wrench

Really good video! I was removing my hub on a 2003 Dodge 3500 4 x 4 using the same puller you used in your video. The hub came apart at the bearing leaving the piece with the 4 bolt holes still tightly connected to the knuckle. Can I use the bolts and the front axle to pull out the remainder of the hub with out damaging anything?

Thank you very detailed

I can feel the frustration

Buy a Press Machine and take out the Knuckle and put it under the press , it is very easy that way .

Persistence is ones' greatest attribute. Well done!

Well done!

Pb Blaster and a slide hammer with a hub adaptor

Lol, been a licensed mechanic for years. When you got a cheater bar that big you're in trouble lol!

i wonder how a 1 inch drive would fair though... as opposed to the typical 1/2 inch drive

you can rent hub pullers $10 a day. or free from O'Reilly's and AutoZone. also when it's tight hit the end of the puller bolt . that shocks it personally I like heat and beat method

Did not use any WD 40 ??? That normally helps You are right about the jack .under the hub for support ...remove the spring in the hammer stroke Good job . you krpt at it .

Hub shocker would win easily

Did you try spraying it with BP blaster 1st

All that work you could have just removed rear assembly then pulled it as one unit taken it a work bench with a vice then use a drift punch and pound it out if you own a press you could also do it that way.

Get a hub buster. Wroks great

All you need was the otc puller and a cp 3/4 impact. And you could you pull anything off.

holy crap...that thing was stuckkkk

Less talk more action

Nice video man. Fuck the haters. People don’t realize how stuck some of them can really be... especially with the chemicals they put on the roads these says... But I do have some advice for you.. just safety wise- please keep your face and upper body, and your body in general(don’t get in the floor with it) away from that contraption.. it could go at ANY moment and trust me they can really fly off when they do. But otherwise thank you for sharing!!

Respect your energy and willpower but there are breaker bars with a 3/4" drive. Would likely be better than hammering the tool.

I'm 58,had a bunch of vehicles. None of them have ever been this bad. Guess I'm lucky.

Guess no one told him about air hammers

Wow all that when you could have just used an air hammer to get that axle loose. I thought you were trying to pull the hub off?

Could've also spent $25-30 on impact sockets if you had an impact gun if not you could've used a ratchet with a cheater bar as well, would've made that job a lot easier.

That is nuts, hope you lubricate that screw too yikes!

Should have put the pipe over the hammer wrench

GEEEEZZ, after watching this, I would charge $2000.00 LOL, you want to sell that setup @ a discount???

next time you get a seized axle like that, DO NOT hit handle with sledge hammer, you will bend the center screw, or something else, the best way i do it, is use a impact gun, until it tightens up, then hit it right on top of the center screw with a 4 pound hammer,, and it will loosen, repeat steps, impact gun, then hit with hammer on drive screw/bolt.. works every time, says a mechanic 32 years exp.. nice try

I bought that excact tool years ago for my car.Almost $300 for a tool that's I rarely used 😢

Been there done that better off replacing the axle with the Hub if it's that badly stuck and seized won't be long in that axle be going out

26" pipe wrench and the sledge hammer 2 good whacks and out she comes.

didn't you lube those threads?

Is it coming off or not? You didn't do anything but jibber jabber. You said it was coming off so, take it off!

Yes, it's a car that pulls from behind, so you have to disassemble the differential to remove the complete bar, it doesn't work like that.

Heat the axle with a torch on the outside and hub been there done it and a HD slide hammer live and learn

wow stubborn, hope mine wont be that bad

hey take the sock you have broke off then use high impact wrenches come right off

The hammer wrench is a gimmick, that's why it's not inc w/ the HD version. Once you have max tension your supposed to strike the hex directly with the sledge to shock it. Add tension and repeat. And this is where you need 3/4" drive tools, especially when you need a cheater bar that size.

Honestly you would maybe need the 1" impact gun for this one.....

put a floor jack under it and lift it

Pipe wrench big one and that hammer would do job faster and cheaper

use heat on it then hit the axel in and it well get lose

Of course these don't work for non-driven hubs. The struggle is real.

that tool bounces on every blow - lower the rotor to the slab

Step one: take out all bolts. Step two: press axel shaft out of wheel bearing while pulling the wheel bearing out of mount. Some times you have to let other people save you from your self.

Let us know how much the shoulder & elbow replacements will cost LOL

YOUR TIGHTENING IT!!! have you not seen if its Left handed or Right handed thread!!!!!!!