this is the best timing belt video on the 2uzfe. good mechanic.

I can't thank you enough for these videos. I followed your steps. Here's the kicker. My wife blew her timing belt going threw Sacramento. Got it towed back to Carson City, and was gonna put a new engine in it. But the clowns we bought it off of lost the engine. Then the runaround...any decided to just go for it and put in the timing belt and hope the engine is not toast. Got all together and it purrs like a contented kitten.

Honestly, I have watched many Toyota 4.7 Timing Belt videos on KZfaq and in my opinion so far yours is the best! Thank you sooooo much for posting!

1st and 3rd segments were so incredibly helpful! I really liked seeing the process with the engine out, I feel it made it easier to follow along and lucky for all of us there really is plenty of room to work in these engine bays. Thank you!

I followed his instructions and changed my timing belt,lower seal,fan bracket,new water hoses ,water pump and new serpentine belt and new thermostat and antifreeze came out successful and want to thank him for such great instructions. My truck runs so much better for it.

You’re an absolute gem, thank you for this video and all the other land cruiser ones sir! Just replaced timing belt, water pump, fan bracket, tensioner, etc on my 2000 4.7L Land Cruiser with 360k+ miles, very good feeling!

Just finished the job with your series , now I know why stealers (dealer) wanted over 2,000 dls for the work. Timing belt seals tensioner water pump ,coolant ,radiator replacement . Hell ! yo covered it all ! you have the best instructional series . Thank you !

I bought a 2001 Sequoia 4.7L one year ago. I have taken several long hard pulling trips on it and it has been the best tow vehicle I have ever had. I am proud of it and have wanted to make sure it is in the best running condition. I am almost certain that the timing belt and water pump have never been replaced. It has 173,000 miles on it. after watching your videos I am totally impressed with the confidence you have given me to do it myself. Dude, your video presentations is awesome!!! I have just subscribed. you're the best. I am now looking to service the transmission and all of the running gear.

I just changed my timing belt and water pump, I followed both the engine in and out of the car, so fars everything’s running good and no leaks. Thanks again for the videos

Thx for the video, watching this gives me a greater appreciation for the simplicity of much older trucks that have timing chains or gears and water pumps that are a snap to replace.

I done mine using your 1st and last video as guide mine is running smoothly with new water pump and timing belt I done it myself thanks brother

IMPRESSIVE AS ALWAYS; I BOUGHT THE TOOLS FROM AMAZON, I WILL E-MAIL COPY OF MY RECIPTS THANK YOU SIR.

This was such a great video! Sometimes you wonder why things cost so much, and after watching this I totally understand. Great job!

Good job on the video. Thanks. I start belt replacement and water pump on my 2005 Tundra using this. I already made disassembly procedure notes and reassembly procedure notes. Watch a couple more times and I'll be real familiar.

Nice demo with the engine out and focusing on installing the belt properly. I'll be wrapping up this procedure tomorrow afternoon on my 99. In my haste yesterday, I snapped the long cam sensor bolt off and had to run a helicoil in there- that will teach me, and will never happen again! Glad I was able to review this tonight in prep for completion tomorrow.Thanks, and great timing on getting this out today !

Great clarification on the timing marks between crank and cams! Every other bit of info I got was very cloudy. Nice job!

Dude, i can not thank you enough for your fantastic videos. I have to try and fix things my self because i cannot afford to pay to have it done. With the help of your videos i was able to get it all done for a fraction of the cost of paying a dealer. Thank you so much!!!

By far one of the best videos I've seen great demeanor good detail proper installation I mean just good work man good work I subscribed and I liked and I will be going back to watch your other videos. Thanks

Thank you, and I much appreciate your explicit instruction videos on the timing belt replacement. It was my first time replacing a timing belt on my 2005 Toyota Sequoia SR5 4WD. I followed your part 1 on removing parts, then part #3, putting parts back and torque specs. I would like to thank this KZfaq content creator ( kzfaq.info/get/bejne/g5uhrb2LtMW3dWw.html ) for tips on aligning the timing belt top pulleys to the "T" after the top dead center and then removing the old timing belt; I ignored the Toyota's manual's confusing instruction on rotating the crank 50 degrees after top dead center. The top timing pulleys did not jerk. And also, thanks to this KZfaq content creator (kzfaq.info/get/bejne/b7Njm6mEzrHXj4k.html ) for removing the other parts before following your part 1 video. For anyone curious, my sequoia top pulleys did not look like those in the video. Mine have covers. It was a miracle. It was the first time my 2005 Toyota Sequoia ever got the timing belt replaced after 105k miles and 17 years. I followed the advice of a DIY mechanic who told me not to replace it before 100k. The factory timing belt still appeared to me it was in good condition. Please do not do what I did; follow the manufacturer suggested maintenance schedules.

Love the “Fancy Big Wrench “ at 13:00 and the process you use to use the the springs in the head to tension the installation of the TB. Worth a tip in the Patreon jar.

Thanks for videoing and posting the process. While I don't have your experience, I do have a couple of tips for the do-it-yourselfers that I've learned the hard way, and would like to pass along. -A piece of thin plywood cut to fit sort of between the fan shroud and radiator while your pulling the fan assembly saves the fins on the radiator. -Also, break the fan clutch nuts loose in the manner demonstrated, but leave them on their studs until they're all broken loose so that you don't mess up the threads on the studs. - I can't remember if there are one, or two rubber hoses that attach to the engine oil cooler assembly, but I remember having to replace one while the engine was assembled. The top hose clamp was almost impossible to access, so while you've got things out of the way, I would recommend replacing the lines going to the oil cooler. That's the cannister looking thing that the filter is mounted to. -This is also a great time to clean the throttle body. Access is easy and things are already disconnected. Remove it and do a thorough clean up. Also, I think reference was made to this already in the video, go ahead and pay a little extra for genuine Toyota parts. They fit better and last longer. These are 300,000 mile plus engines if taken care of, treat 'em nice!

Best, most thorough vid on this. Thank you!

Thank you for this video it’s by far best method of timing I’ve found have watched tons of them on this very same motor Thank You!

You have some awesome videos, with great information. Pretty cool to be able to watch an expert do their work. If you’re having issues with the camera focusing on something, it’s usually because when there are a lot things in the background with a lot of contrast (like the engine) then the camera is going to want to focus on that. If you stand right in front of the camera holding what you want to show that should help. Keep up these awesome videos, this is going to be the go channel for anything Land Cruiser related.

You are the absolute best! I'm going to attempt to try and change my timing belt, tensioner, water pump, thermostat, and serpentine belt this weekend. I'll let you know how it goes! I have some confidence now thanks to your amazing videos! I have no idea what morons are downvoting your videos, probably fellow mechanics who don't want to lose business! lol.

Thanks dude best all around 4.7 timing belt video on the tube. Great job

That was the best tutorial of how to do it! Excellent! Thanks!

This video is so underrated

Great video… followed along to reinstall and torque everything to spec

Thank you so much for making these videos. Just finished changing out the timing belt and water pump on my 2004 4Runner. Your series of videos was invaluable and made the job simple to complete.

Excellent video! Thank you so much.

You are the man! This was extremely helpful and helped me successfully change my water pump and timing belt. 👊🙌

Excellent videos, very clear explained. Did my 2006 sequoia timing belt with all the information on all 3 videos. Thanks!

Awesome video! This helps a lot. Although either I should have watched all the way through or you should have cut out the bit about not putting the water pump in first 🤣

Thanks for your videos. Helped me see stuff differently when I did my TB and WP.

Good video nice to watch someone do it right appreciate all your videos

I have a 2004 Sequoia and waiting for my mechanic to get back to me on a quote for this work. What terrifies me the most about this is that one mistake can have devastating consequences, on one hand I'm thinking it's something I can do but on the other I'm having doubts because I know I'll encounter difficulties. If the quote comes back at over $1000 I will seriously think about doing it myself. People relay stories about the cams moving or whatever and bending from hitting the pistons etc. One thing that is tempting me to have a go myself is with the money saved I could buy an impact wrench and other tools as well as building up the knowledge to tackle the job in the future, this and getting a great deal of personal satisfaction, but again I'm worried about f***ing it up!

Great video! Saved me a ton of time and grief doing this for the first time on my 03 4Runner.

Great video, thanks!

Thank you, Thank you. Your the Man. Watched all three videos 3x

Brad, thank you so much for such a great job on this video with the details, lighting , torque values, explanations, etc. I am just in the process of receiving all of the parts and tools that you noted, in order to do the T Belt / water pump R & R on my 03 Lexus GX470. But with so many different videos, and so many comments stating to use the "I" marks on the cams or the "T" marks on the cam, TDC, 50 degrees before TDC, or after TDC on the crank, can you please tell me if this video, the way you lined up all the marks on the cams and crank, will this apply directly to the 4.7 L engine in the 2003 Lexus GX470 as well? This is the non-VVT engine, if that makes any difference.

Your videos are so well done. Thank you and keep up the good work! Looking forward to more of your videos.

This video gives me the confidence to proceed with the timing belt replacement, and if everything goes to plan then it would almost be fun to do, but there's always those "complications" that trained mechanics have the ability to easily sort out but that shadetree mechanics end up spending an extra day and a few visits to the auto parts store to finally solve . . . Oh well, nothing ventured, nothing gained! Thanks.

13:24 Thank you for putting up with the Camera!

I Love the 80 in the Background

Agreed your video is the best

You are the greatest in video mechanic teaching ! THANKS A TON!!!!

Super informative and really helpful.

Thanks!

Awesome video man can’t thank u enough. what’s up with the sketchy guy walking in the background though.

Excellent work! Thank you!

Why don't you have the crankshaft keyway lined up with the dimple? It looks like you have it closer to the "window" mark, (4 squares making 1 square). Would you line it up to that "window" mark, which is past the dimple on crankshaft. when you have the cams set, past TDC (I) to the (T) timing belt service? So dimple on crankshaft and cam to TDC vertical line the same as cams on T and crank on window. Would this be right or wrong

What is the crankshaft mark, past the dimple, that looks like a window (4 small squares). Where your crankshaft is sitting it looks like it would be closer to the window mark than dimple. Having key stone on dimple only allows 3 of the 5 belt dots to fully seated on sprocket

Does it actually matter which way the belt goes on the timing belt what do you have to follow the arrows

Great video! Thank you for taking the time to do it. I'm due for my 2nd timing belt soon on my 07 LX. I feel confident to do this myself. What is the typical life span of Alternator, Power steering pump and AC compressor ? Would it make sense to replace it all as part of 200k service or should I leave it alone if they are working?

Does it actually matter which way you go with the timing belt do you follow the arrows or no

Please why do after fisking the timing current does not come to the plugs

Does it matter which way the belt goes on a timing belt why do you have to follow the arrows

What is the biggest thing on doing a timing belt in your mind ,would it be gettintg the rotation to the neutral/safe spot and lining up new belt marks with all pullies?

Awesome! Thanks.

Much awesome info here.

Sorry to ask all these questions brother but you rarely get a good mechanic to talk back too you on here

So after your rotation to take belt off in a neutral /safe position you leave it alone until you do puppies and water pump ,then installation you just use you new belt marks and align them to the crank marks and cam marks ,then when you turn everything a couple time it should line back up at *TDC?

Great video. I followed it step by step on my 2000 LC. Thanks for the details, especially the torque specs. After completing the project (Water pump, timing belt, tensioners etc.), my heater is not working properly. Fan motor blows, but air is not consistently hot. Been looking for a fix, but don't have one yet. Any advice? Thanks in advance

This is the *BEST* video series out there on this. I do have a question I could use some help with if you would be so kind as to assist. 2002 Sequoia- When I torque the timing belt tension pulley to 25 ft lb it no longer pivots freely. I noticed this after I pulled the tensioner pin and it didn't push the pulley up to take the slack out of the belt.When I backed out the hex nut the pin did release and apply tension, but I'm pretty sure re-torquing is locking the pulley in place so it doesn't pivot. I used the exact same bolt and washer from the old tensioner pulley. It is a brand new pulley and tension pin (Aisin TKT-021 kit), I used 3 different torque wrenches to make sure I wasn't over tightening it, and I made sure the thick washer was in place between the block/pulley. I am afraid it is not safe to leave as is and the tensioner won't remove the slack if/when the belt stretches down the road. What did I do wrong? (Thank you)

If my crank seal is not leaking should I go through the effort to get the old one out and replace it my vehicle has 256 thousand miles on it. I worry about trying to get the old one out and a new one in....I'm thinking to leave well enough alone. would love to hear a response as soon as possible

Great video man!!!

Between yours and this one (kzfaq.info/get/bejne/kJpmlrBep92Von0.html) from DailyDriven79, I feel I'm good to go. His was a little more pertinent in that I too have a '07 VVTI motor in my Sequoia. That said, and considering it's always the little things that get you, perhaps an addendum? In it you could A) cover how to deal with the studs in the fan bracket. My new one didn't have the studs. Good thing for me I knew how to deal with it from other projects but some may have a rough time with this. B) Spend a little more time with cable routing from under the fan assembly on the drivers side. I wound up with it bound between the right most bolt (as I face the engine) and the AC compressor. Thanx a million for the vid and saying the torque figures as well. :-)

Great video. What kind of torque wrench are you using in this video. Thanks.

Great video. Can you tell me what tool you would use to move the cams on a VVti engine in 2005-06 Tundra? I don't think the tool you show at 13:40 will fit. Thanks.

Does it actually really matter which way the timing belt goes on the pulleys of a 2002 Toyota Sequoia timing belt

I changed my timing belt on 06 tundra. I swapped out the belt on the same tdc marks and went to start it and it just cranked but didn’t fire up. I took everything thing off to see if the cams and crank were in their proper positions and they weren’t. How can I redo this job and get it timed properly?

Studying forum posts, shop manuals and videos in preparation for replacing timing belt and water pump on my SC430 motor. It was very helpful to see how to install the timing belt itself with the engine out of the vehicle. Are torque specs based on bolt/nut dimensions or coming from a shop manual? Thanks for putting video together!

I've got the raisin instructions that come with the kit and it says after I find TDC which is the pin on right for 05to09 then to rotate50°counterclockwise until notch on sprocket is approximately 12oclock ,I'm just wondering tough after I do that how far my cam marks will move and if I'm still gonna be in that neutral /safe position when removing belt,then do I reapply belt as marked aligning belt arms with notches in crank and cams?is it that easy really

Great video TY

Do you know if there is a mark on oil housing for the appropriate spot for the BTDC and do I reinstall the timing belt from that point just lininig up my mark s correctly or what Chilton says to spin crank back to TDC I think it jumps around to much to understand it the Chilton Manuel that is

Is there anything special with a vvti system? You just do the timing belt procedure per year correct,,Do the cam phasers on the cams need any special attention other than seals if they need them

My acdelco only has 3 timing lines, and no arrows and no other marks... Sad purchase

No part list on the web

Can you tell me why these specific 4 runners 2003 trough 2009 rotate counterclockwise per te Haynes and Chilton Manuela please

Excellent video thank you. Could you explain how to use the “T” marks up on the cams versus the straight line timing mark up n the cams? The are about 10mm apart . Can you damage the valves while manually rotating the cams?

Good info. Thank you. Question: I'm currently working on a 2003 Tundra 4.7 with tow package. Do you have a video on how to remove and replace the 140 amp fusible link? It is number 34 in the engine bay fuse box. Any advice would be much appreciated.

Hey so I didn’t hear you mention or notice you use any blue locktite (and actually I think I saw one guy put red thread sealer on the crank bolt 😳). Does the Toyota manual not call for any on any of those nuts/bolts/studs? Thanks for the videos!

👍👍

Working on a 03 Sequoia 4.7 liter, Identifix says the timing marks should be zero. The Aisin timing belt kit instructions say to go 50 degrees past zero. If you put the crank at the zero mark and remove timing belt will this create any problems going back together. Or how can this be corrected after belt is removed if it does create a problem.

Hey I have a question if you don’t mind. My 00’ es300 1mzfe I did the timing belt kit on (aisin) cam/crank seals everything. Afterwards it seemed to be bogging down at low speeds and I could swear it was not driving like that prior but otherwise runs great. My question is about checking the timing. Yes it was an aisin kit but the belt itself wasn’t Toyota so the marks were different the cam marks lined up and crank was at tdc but only difference was the other mark on right on crank didn’t line up with the dimple. Would I start with it at tdc and make sure the cam marks line up or crank it twice or what should I do? Thanks

as regards the crank bolt being torqued my torque wrench only tightens to 150 so was wondering what fraction of a clockwise turn would be a good estimation to get it to the required 181?

Hey, Ryan. I'm replacing my fan bracket tomorrow because the Idler pulley bolt wouldn't torque to spec (a problem I see you had on this fan bracket). What was the cause on this engine? The threads inside the female receiver on my fan bracket are almost completely stripped out. I wonder if it is just a poor quality part :/

41:40 it does matter to us if it doesn't torque up right because ours may do the same thing!!! What ended up being the problem/solution?

Muy buen trabajo hogala estubieras en miami para que hicieras hese cambio

So in replacing my timing timing belt with the engine in the car on my wife’s ’06 Sequoia, as I was putting the alternator back on, I had my torque wrench set at 29 ft/lbs for the top 14mm nut, and was just wrenching away when I heard a pop, and only then did I step back and notice the whole alternator, when viewing it from dead ahead in front of the vehicle, had started to twist to the left, so that its pulley was a good bit out of line with the rest of the pulleys - and this was with the bottom bolt and smaller 12mm nut in the middle at least snugged up. How is that even possible? Does the top back portion of the alternator not actually rest or get pressed up against the engine block? I took the bolt and two nuts back off and slid the alternator back off the studs to get a look at everything and nothing appeared to be obviously bent, so I put it back on, torqued the lower bolt and middle nut to spec, and then basically just ran down the top nut until it appeared to be in line with the rest of the pulleys (basically right up to where it wanted to start twisting again), and am hoping that will be good enough when I get the belt back on and get ready to fire it up. Have you or anyone else ever heard of/seen anything like that? Thanks for the videos and your insights!

In the case this is done with the motor in the truck, can the crank be turned to orientate the cams with the trans in neutral? Thanks for the great video!!

Love this channel but I want to ask a question recently I found that emissions code such as the canister vent valve or etc. Being bad can cause the Trac control,slip and engine light to come on supposed ly it's a fail safe for my 4.7 4 runner 2006 ,just wanted to know if that is the case and also if I wanted to do a zero point calibration on a 2006 Toyota 4 runner Sr5 4.7 trough my obd2 connector what pins are cg and ts so I can use the paper clip trick .I've heard several things but can't confirm either one .Thanks for all of your online videos I love them.

One question are all raisin kits for 4.7 4 runner Sr5 the same ,what I'm asking is if I ordered the kit you show from Amazon will it be the exact fit for my 2006 Toyota 4 runner Sr5 4.7 with vvti system(not snuff or too many teeth in this type of belt)?

Just think if Toyota made this chain vs a belt?

It confusing when you say your going to make two full revolutions on the crank pully when clearly their is a yellow mark on the crankshaft pully that shows you did not make two full revolution 🧐

Hi, what tool do I have to use to turn the camshaft gear/actuator counter clockwise to line up the camshaft mark to the belt mark on an 06 Land Cruiser? The passenger side cam gear mark and belt mark is lined up. However the driver side isn’t and I can’t turn it by hand. The cam gear on a non-VVTi engine is different from a VVTi so I’m not sure if the SST to turn the cam gear here on your video will work for my engine. Will appreciate your input, thank you in advance.

Hey OTRAMM i wasnt thinking about it and used a smidge of dielectric grease on my o rings i know its a silicone based lube, do you think this will ruin my o rings ?

Which shop manual are you using? Would a Haynes shop manual give the position of the crank before removing harmonic balancer? TDC, 50 DEGREES, OR BEFORE TDC? I have a 2004 Toyota tundra. W/ 4.7 v8.

How come your not concerned with the cam marks on cam,just wondering