I think you're assumption of the waterpump causing the overheat problem is correct. Thank you for the detailed videos!

Thanks for sharing this. I'm glad my 94 48SPL didn't get that hot. We've had the pontoon for 3 years and finally aboput to get it in the water. The guy I bought it from didn't know you couldn't run them without water but the engine runs great. I decided to replace the pump because it got to the place it didn't want to pump. The impeller was siezed to the shaft and the wedge was toast but that's all. For some reason the round muff nor the rectangle muff will pump water into the water pump. If I drop ot on a tank of water it will pump imediately. Wierd... I don't know anything about these 48SPL's but they must be tough and your videos have been a great help.

My entertainment of late is you, Cody bass, and this old outboard. I think I have a problem.😂

Your sarcasm on the compression test readings is well noted and enjoyed on this particular example.

some crispy bits on that engine

Love the autopsy carnage videos. You can’t run these without water and expect a good outcome!

Oh I sit in cabin of one of my boats watching these good videos and price is right knowing I have a trigger and statr to do today but ya know I love watch this guy work knowing I have so many things to get-together but it's worth it you know this stuff and info is worth so much to me

Great content man! Always enjoy your videos. How do you feel about the choke solenoid modification on I think it's 73-77ish v4 outboards? My 76 115hp Evinrude has that choke system and apparently there's an old OMC bulletin where you wire it so it doesn't do the "half choke" stage. My 76 has a temp sensor and when cold you turn the key on & it engages half way until warmed up. Reason I ask is my 76 runs fantastic all day. 37mph in a 18ft Starcraft Holiday but she's a little hard starting when cold. Once started the first time, it'll fire immediately all day, just cold natured on that 1st one. Supposedly the half choke stage causes it to be too rich and can be hard starting. If wired like in the bulletin it's all or nothing via the switch at the controller. Maybe you could make a video on this idea? I'm gonna try it and see if she's easier to start next time out. Thanks again for all the great content!

That bottom is crispy lol

Got a used 1980 140 hp johnson . Had been sitting a long time ..a bit of burnt paint on right top side but compression was good ran all last year have to check after warm up this year . I think it might have fairly low hours.

Can you make a video on how to properly adjust all the throttle linkages for the Johnson evinrude 25hp

What should the compression be on a 91 120hp compression be also whats the difference between a commercial and non commercial evenrude outboard and help would be greatly apriciated

Brandon, love your videos. I have a 1987 88hp Evinrude that gives an overheat alarm at low idle. I have replaced the waterpump, T-stats, removed water jackets and cleaned them. I flushed the engine with Rydlyme and still happens. I want to take the heads off to check water flow around cylinders. I only run in fresh water for last 30 years, but original owner ran in salt. I am scared to try to get head bolts out for fear of breaking them. Any tips? socket wrench or impact? Thanks.

Brandon, I have a complete replacement 28 special powerhead if you are interested.

Must have been ran with literally no vanes at all on the impeller. I’d like to see a ring pulled off and put in the cylinder for a gap measurement. I’m guessing it would be huge.

That fly wheel looked un ballenced when you spun bye hand like it was not put even by someone or it may be the view of camra

It would be great if you could do a video on how to link and sync a v4, I’ve seen a few people ask for it and I’m struggling to find info on how to do it elsewhere cheers

😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢

Hi, I have a johnson 60 1984. and for some reason my crankshaft is rubbing on the lower part of the crankcase. Crank web is rubbing on side of the crankcase and is overheating and seizing the engine. The crankshaft has 4 damaged journals so i have replaced it with the new one and new bearings but when i hand turn it it still rubs on the crankcase. Have you ever encountered something like this and what could be the problem?

I never seen such bad lower

Who do you use to bore your blocks? Hard to find someone who will bore a blind hole in Southern CA. LA sleeve will but they're pricy and have a long lead time.

I get rid of as many fuel connections they always leak if you bump on wave air comes in I blow through by mouth to check for air leaks even brand new connection they still leak air if fuel line is moved even at my tank on go in with just barb nipple or line in to bottom of tank then i use a caulking tube cap to plug tanks not in use

Brandon do you have a phone number I can call I have the same motor with a big up grade I did to mine she runs 48 mph 12 ft skiff the carb came off a 1978 65 75 HP evenrude middle carb I have the part number for it