Don’t leave us hanging like the last etching press 😂

Meatloaf makes it easy to do Monday. Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.

With regard to the shortage of drill. So to speak, when I was an Apprentice back in the 1960s I wanted to drill a 6" deep hole down the length of a stainless steel bar 0.2 inch diameter hole. One of the old guys, now long gone, said I could extend a drill by soldering an extension to it, just end to end joint and tinmans solder. We tried it and it worked perfectly We even ground relief on the shank on a bench grinder to clear swarf. The drilling was done on an old gear drive spindle drill. Great days!

It is worth carrying around a little bit of 0000 steel wool in your pocket when looking around at flea markets and swoop meets. A light rub can allow you to see through the rust and find the brand of tools.

My 2 cents regarding soaking hammer handles - All of my handles get hickory wedges instead of steel, then the handles are charred with a torch, then while still hot, they get soaked in warm boiled linseed oil. I just put them handle-up in a bench vise and wipe the oil on with a rag. The wood really takes up the oil when it's hot. I hang all of my hammers up at waist/leg height (blacksmith shop) for easy access, so it's pretty convenient for me to go around and put a few drops of linseed oil on the hammer eyes once or twice a year. I also wipe all of my hammer and axe heads down with linseed oil, too. It helps keep them from rusting.

Really glad you are back, Mr. Ox.

Today is the day we celebrate the machinist.

That monarch lathe looks like it was fully rebuilt. That would explain how clean everything is. As long as it was done well, that price tag doesn't sound bad. The only problem with it compared to a modem lathe would be if the vacuum tubs go bad, it will be difficult to find replacements.

Meatloaf! Happy Monday Tom!

Nice scores. I picked up a Bridgeport a few weeks ago for $750 after watching the local classifieds for years, so they are out there if you're patient (and mine isn't even clapped out).

An accomplished printmaker friend of mine (the now late Janice McBride) was very impressed with the phenolic platen on her etching press over the steel platen. The steel platen (slightly warped) became the top of my workbench.

Tom, when I was young, a long time ago, I cut and bucked firewood to make some cash. If the axe or maul head started getting loose I would just drop it head down into a bucket of water overnight. Came out good n' tight, I wasn't too worried about a little corrosion, haha! Also, with all those wonderful tools you have I can't believe you don't have a Honda axle stretcher?

You might consider putting two sprockets on top with a chain connecting both sides so that turning one side turns both screws equally. On the adjustment side, you could either put a handle on the top of the sprocket as you described, or you could put a sprocket on the shaft just below the existing hand wheels. It seems like being able to adjust both screws from one side would be much more convenient than having to reach across to adjust the other side.

I don't know about red Loctite, but a drop of blue Loctite on certain injection molded plastics will, over time, find every stress line in the part and continue flowing through them until the part crumbles into tiny chunks. My brother-in-law was the QA engineer for a major instrument maker (tachometers and similar gauges) and he had examples of their gauge cluster back cases where there were blue spider web like structures throughout the parts. The cases were black so the contrast made the flow pattern of the Loctite stand out. Basically the Loctite never stopped flowing through the material. PCBs due something similar in masonry structures. In the Northeast this phenomena has resulted in many old school buildings having PCB contamination in the exterior brick around window frames where a s PCB additive was used in window caulk as an extender when working in cold weather. Sometimes tearing back the brick a foot or sow of brick will solve the problem, sometimes the contamination is so extensive, typically in concrete framed buildings, that demolition and building new is the most economical solution. Chemistry can be weird.

Man Tom is becoming quite the woodworker did you see him effortlessly cutting those dowels and hickory no less lol love it Tom can't wait to see the results and oh isn't Anti-Freeze as expensive as Loctite?🙂

Good test for the hammer handles.

I hope you consider replacing the spoke drive with a nice hand wheel like the one you made years ago.Very cool project.

Keep the rollers even with gage blocks right and left . Make extenchion long shank drills add a proper diameter toolsteel rod and tig weld done did .

Hi Tom! Great meatloaf! - The hammer handle test sort of reminds me of project farm - the inventiveness to create the comparison tests!

I'm excited about watching your enlivening of that printing press. I remember the series where you made an etching press for your wife from scratch. It was truly a work of art, your wife is a lucky lady. I hope she will share some of her work some day.

Thanks for sharing.

For hammer heads I use Minwax wood hardener. It’s like Tite Chairs but you get about 14x more for the money. Pour on or use a syringe until it stops soaking in. Basically it’s really thin superglue.

If you put that dowels at the slight angle, it will wick better, cos cross cut wil be exposed. Also, you can put some glass or jar over to prevent turpentine from evaporating. Usualy, this mixture is poured into a some sort of plastic bag, then wraped around the handle or whatever is the part, so there is no much air in a bag. This prevents linseed oil from hardening prematurly. Of course.. not every plastic bag can whitstand turpentine (bags from LED strips, or other electronics, that are metalized inside work whell).

Another amazing Monday! Thanks for sharing 🇨🇦

Project Farm vibes there 😂

It’s good to be back to regular meatloaf! Capillary action through xylem “tubes” in wood is a very effective transport system. It will be interesting to see which migrates through the section most effectively. Im going to say the 2 oils should move differently than the antifreeze….

Have you tried Evapo-rust for rust removal. Suggest you may want to try it to remove the rust from your flea market find tools. Saves a lot of hand work.

There's some guy on KZfaq who made a massive etching press from scratch - even the gears! It was super impressive. Not sure what happened to it...rumor has it he traded it for a Space Shuttle tile...or this thing that measures Sharpie ink thickness. 😁

It would be interesting to measure the diameter of the control dowel and compare that to the diameters of the test specimens to see how much they have swelled due to each of the liquids. Used for hammer/sledge handles, it's all about how much they swell, and then stay "swelled" after being removed from the various liquids.

Please show the one you made for your wife previously. I would also love to see some of her prints. My wife also is into printing.

👍 enjoyed as always. Thanks Tom!

Lots of finding,Tom to keep busy.Thank you.

Minwax makes a 'wood hardener'. Seems like a super glue. Really wicks and gets hard. Metal small cap can not too expensive.

Tom, Thanks for the Craigslist inspirations. Nothing like finding deals and meeting cool people.

Nice score Tom. 👍 I might get a chance to run a 10ee they have one at our innovation center at work.

Scrap cast iron is around $200 a ton, so if that press is 200 pounds, it is worth a nice twenty dollar bill. You could make a 4x profit selling it! 🙂 How about putting a couple of sprockets and a bicycle chain between the jackscrews on that press? You could probably get the sides aligned to a few thousandths and they would hopefully stay that way.

very cool stuff, thanks for the video

Great score on the tools Tom. The roller table is the bargain of the century. Hope your wife can make use of it in her studio. Cheers Nobby

Thanks for the video, Doctor Ox

I suppose you could install the dowels in a length of black pipe ( slip fit) and test the force to press them out after a soak. Linseed oil, and loctite both have some gap filling capability. Thanks for the video

I had a 4 in PG&E adjustable wrench that opened to 11/16 I sure miss it.

Hopefully we get the full restore unlike the last press you started, 😆 sorry, couldn't miss the friendly dig. BTW I was looking for a video that I remembered watching about 5 years ago but the video list now only goes back 3 years for some reason.

Not certain the volume of the fluids is important to the wood handle test. The cost for "enough" juice is what matters, I think. The cost of Loctite is pretty high compared to a dribble of anti-freeze.

I've always used modeling, super thin superglue to harden wood. Sometimes i use a pump to press the glue inside the wood as well. It becomes very hard and cutting it with a saw becomes a chore as it gums up the blade. Sidenote, if you want a walking stick that looks cool but it's also super strong, for hiking, you take a straight shoot of grape vine, cut it neatly at both ends and then suck epoxy through it. Grape vines are so aerated inside that if you cut a slice you can see through it.

Nice video Tom! The only thing I might added on to the wicking test… would have been to weigh the dowels prior to the immersion…. Maybe weigh the cups of liquid too. I’m interested to see the results. Is that boiled linseed oil? All the best… Chuck

I thinking of Tom producing Benjamin's on his 5 buck press.

A cool experiment is worth its weight in gold 🤓

That's way cool, you bought an old tool off craigslist and your wife was excited about it? Dayum...wiz...she's a keeper for sure...I'm not sure I've run into that "problem".🤔

Nice etching press, I reckon a smart fella like yourself could build a pretty impressive etching press if he really put his mind to it ;)

I eagerly look forward to the results of the hickory soak test. My only experience is that my dad used to soak mauls in water overnight to swell the handle and then I learned somewhere to use antifreeze and so far that's worked well. Very interested to see how the linseed oil works.

Even the first time you checked those dowels, the 290 had a blush tint ever so slightly. Capillary action is amazing. Fluid dynamics in general teen tend to be casually mind blowing.

Nice video, along with the comment below about how much the wood swelled up how about sawing it in half along the diameter to view the wicking. Scott

Need that third hand to hold your little round blocks of wood 😄

21:25 lined up like sambuca shots! I wouldn't drink 'em though! :)

Did we ever see the press you made for your wife after it was finished? I don't recall seeing it. Anyway, thanks for another interesting video!

@18:58 I was at a vendor years ago and they had a guy trying to suck oven-chain grease (don't ask) into a syringe. Much bigger one. We're standing there and I say: "Mind if I show you a trick to do that"? Pulled out the plunger and packed the thing with grease, then put it back in. "Try it that way". They all looked at me like "WTF?" 😆

I’m interested in the antifreeze solution. Readily available, less expensive per volume, and some dude said it works! My really old pick/trencher cow barn find may find a new life without replacing the handle.

I was taught 60 years ago to pour linseed oil in a hold in the handle of my axe each day for a week for new handle

I would have paid $5.00 just to have the story for myself.

The results of the handle test will be interesting.. Hummmm...do I have room for another Bridgeport..good price ATB...

Great episode, Tom! I got very interested in the new press of yours. And it would be a great episode if you made a nice looking wheel over the handle to the new press to hold those handles straight? Tig or mig it? As you did to some other thing in your old shop, cant remeber what it was but it was good looking.

Dang that Bridgeport is still there...almost walking distance from my house. Please somebody buy it before I do something crazy

I'd go next size up on the adjustment screws. That casting looks like it can take at least that much, if not more. By the way the whole thing looks, i'd have to say it might be some kind of do it yourself press from patterns.

Where do I start? The press- those are not bozo holes, “locating pins and receptacles “ is more better…brass plugs set into holes as bearings. the sides of the table can get parallel and hdme inserts in the verticals align the horizontal movement. Clean threads of handwheels, brass “ threaded bushings” top and bottom of verticals for silky smooth adjustments. Lathe type speed handles attached to both to clock. Wife will continue to be amazed by your resourceful attributes for an undetermined length of time 😅. Fantastic project! Now what I would do lacking your tooling and skills: wire brush table, white lithium grease on drive components. 😮. When you get finished the wife will have a two thousand dollar linograph press that was made long ago with available metals and tooling. You are going to be proving that lipstick on a pig works, and improving older objects is a rewarding experience for those of us who are warped enough to keep them alive. Thoroughly enjoy your posts. This one reminds me of a hearty fellow with a southern accent who squeezes cane 😂

That seller in Camas is pretty frustrating. He's single handedly made it impossible for makers to get a deal on a lathe or milling machine in Oregon and Washington. He'll buy it for way more than it's worth from community college auctions (where he gets all of his machines), then tries to flip them for double or more. He's like the Zillow of machine tools. OR/WA don't buy from him.

Who would of thought that a tool from PG&E showed signs of wear ?

Tom, I have one of those old inside/outside calipers ~15" long, no manufacturer name, however the name C W O'neal is scribed/engraved on it, in very fancy old world script. I'm thinking early-mid 1800's.

You could always offer them $5k on the Monarch. 😊

New flat surface! I know exactly how that works...

To roll a cone, your screws need to be set differently.

I guess it shouldn’t be surprising that a PG&E wrench has little to no signs of use. I would guess *all* PG&E wrenches are in mint condition.

The Sebastapool toolbox should be wearing a tie.

I'd make that shaft out of 4130 tube if it was me

That Monarch 10EE is pretty damn sweet! However, the seller has some pretty EXQUISITE Tastes.. Only the astute among your viewers will take particular notice of the how the rebuilder 'M'odified the Monarch Logo and embellished it with his preference of manufacturer.. It's kind of a cult thing, but if Abom and his Brother watch this video, they'll pick up on it pretty quick. I'll leave this comment for a week, we'll check back in on the wicking of the handle ends and stiffening compounds and check the results of this comment as well..

In thinking about that press, it seems like you could use it for letterpress or intaglio printing. The vertical travel of the roller may give you a hint. As I recall, letterpress slugs were just under an inch tall. (.918 maybe?) But you would never have this for large production work so who would be the target user? Maybe some small shop making posters for local events in rural areas? I bet there’s a good story there someplace if you could somehow dig it out. As I’m thinking of production printing I’m lamenting that fact that the days of the pressman’s hat are fast disappearing. I wish I could make one just because they are cool. I could put it on when using my laser printer….

1200$ for a Bridgeport at that condition, at least 3000€ for worse condition around here.

On the drill extension, just cut the shank at a 45 degree angle and braze a suitable length of rod on to it. Easy and later if it is too long, just cut it off. I'm still trying to get in touch with you on another matter that you have not responded to.

Great meatloaf thank you Tom. Please no teasing of an etching press lol

I wonder if the enteral structure of the dowel rod is such that the wicking occurs in either direction. But it might flow easier in one direction as in flowing up the tree?

To bad you are not closer to Keith Rucker in order to put your table on his restored hugh table shaper.

Are you going to check dimensional change in the hickory too?

Any benefit in checking diameter of that dowel to see if absorbtion caused a swelling or shrinkage?

how about some sort of drop (rebound) test for hardness? Dave

Tom I know you said you were going to use 50:50 on linseed oil mix, I swear that I saw you use 6cc and added 3cc, which obviously is NOT 50:50. John

Need to measure diameters to note the swelling when wet then after they dry out. I am wondering if I should use the lock tight to fill some cracks in my butcher block top shop bench? Any thoughts?

Hi Tom, thanks for the video. Sorry if somebody has asked this before but did you ever end up finishing the intaglio etching press that you were making?

Maybe measure before/after circumference with your diameter tape?

That press needs an all gear drive similar to a Ducati at a minimum. Just kidding, yet? Or Toothed rubber belt? I enjoy the content thank you a bunch.

I have to wonder if any of those products with embrittle the wood? Hard is good until it makes something brittle. We don't want the hammer heads snapping off.

I still haven't received my $8.00 bottle of Loctite. It's being shipped via IndiaPost with arrival April 25 - May 16. Maybe Bezos saw my comment. I'm Prime, too.

Tom, What size drill are you looking for? There's a good chance I would have one that would work.

Lol I live in a machine desert that mill would be 4-5 grand here

Mmm press sieve.

So did you ever finish the other press you were building?

we're never gonna see that other etching press you started a while ago ever again are we?

as far as linseed oil goes you might be better off with japan dryer

Why not but a bicycle chain gear on both shafts under the handwheels and link it with a bicycle chain

Etching press, huh? Reminds me of something, hmm.

John's my uncle

Wait you do machining? 😜