You're welcome! Lumix cameras (for the price) are the best for videography. I've been using them for over 10 years now. I'm glad you learned some things from this video :)

Even though you have a GH6, most of the settings on the GH5M2 are very similar as both cameras use the Lumix S-series menu system. You won't be able to use the settings file but at least you can gain some inspiration and ideas from how I set my camera up. You're welcome :)

There's a lot about these cameras the bigger channels don't talk about. For instance, many recommend using the custom modes for slow motion, but with my setup (using My List), you don't need to change anything. All your settings remain. I think it's simpler, and it's how I do things. Some of my settings have changed. I now have focus peaking assigned to the top button now, but the red record button next to it is still set to AEL (auto exposure lock). So overall, I'm happy with my settings. Knowing your camera will give you an advantage. My little videos at the zoo prove it. I'm also self taught in 3D computer graphics. I shot a short film (4 day shoot) with the GH5M2 and the Leica 10-25mm f/1.7. I did the color grading and even the 3D effects, here: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/sLh_praJprWYlps.htmlsi=IAvyqUUpmnxhAn8r - I love the Panasonic MFT system. Never used full frame. I like it but it's just not for me, I like mobility and fun :)

It gives a good idea for the kind of customization the Lumix cameras allow. Of course, you can use this as a start and change the settings or custom buttons to suit your needs. I have the touch screen disabled but that also disables some useful features such as the ability to select a focusing area with your finger which is useful in photography. So, my settings aren't ideal for everyone, nor for all forms of shooting style, but you will definitely learn something from this video :)

@BackusCreativeImaging and this is exactly my point. It's ashame that all of the " EXPERT NOOBS" aren't as thought - provoking and info generous as you are. You do great work.

These are my custom settings for recording in conditions I'm used to, I don't shoot in low light much. Low light recording isn't an issue if you keep in mind the Zone System in Photography (applicable to videography). If the scene is dark, your exposure should be similar. The GH5 and related cameras like the GH5M2 are good in low light you just have to be careful at how you expose :)

I personally have those settings "off" for video. You can experiment and see if you like the results of changing those two settings :)

@@BackusCreativeImaging thanks man, you are truly Panasanic camera guru, some of the best videos ive seen

Thank you! I'll make more videos when I can 😊

Nevermind, I see after that you mentioned it clips at 80 IRE, so you would use 55 / 80 for V-LOG, and 55 / 105 for Natural , correct?

Does it matter which Zebra to pick? I heard 55 IRE is good for skin tones, and 80 is good for overall ? Also some people use Base/Range 42% IRE, what would this best be used for? Skin tones or anything in general?

​@@haulfilms You got it. I actually just use Zebra 2 all the time, not even Zebra1+2. I have in Natural the Zebra 2 at 105% and in VLOG-L Zebra 2 at 80%. I think on GH6 since it has full VLOG, it might go up to 85% or something. Anyways, I just use Zebra 2 as the overexposure warning and I never bother with Zebra 1. I use the Zone System from the 1940s to get the other aspects of my exposure right. The Zone System is a "way of thinking", it was developed before we had waveform monitors etc. I still use the waveform monitor but it's not the end all be all for me now. Combining old insights with the modern technology can be very useful. It has revolutionized my way of thinking about exposure over the last few months. Don't let me confuse you though, it works for me but might not work for you. Anyways, yes, for me, the zebra is just an overexposure notation. I do keep it on. Some like to use the other one for skin tones, and that's fine. I don't bother anymore because I can get a good "feel" for the skin tone exposure when thinking of the Zone System and lighting etc. It's actually an interesting way of thinking about exposure. You can just "feel it" ... there's less guess work and less relying on the assists (which means you get the exposure set faster) 😊

@@BackusCreativeImaging I believe that I used 55% IRE in my recent video. Now will go test out 80% IRE and see results. Thank you for the very informative response! Truly helpful indeed!

​@@haulfilms 42% is "middle grey" (perceptual or roughly 107 out of 255 in 8-bit RGB) or 18% grey (linear light) in VLOG-L, while 40% is middle grey in Natural (I believe). There's an S5 tutorial on exposure that mentioned that actually, but it applies to the GH5 II and GH6 as well. Middle grey is the basis for your exposure on your subject (in general). You sometimes may have to go over or under a bit but should try to stay close to middle grey for your subject and the surrounding scene "overall". Looking into the Zone System will help you identify middle grey in a frame faster than using the Luminance Spot Meter, along with different zones for common objects like green grass. For example, if I see a white car reflecting direct sunlight, I know the non specular reflections should be around 88% IRE on the waveform monitor. That's one hint I can go on for my exposure but it is only one out of many, and I have to take the entire shot into account. Be careful though, as what I said could be misleading: cameras will always try (in auto mode) to balance the exposure for middle grey (in evaluative metering mode for example), but your human brain is way better than a camera. This is where that Zone System comes in, it reminds me that (for example) those Red-winged Blackbirds (being very dark in real life) should not be very bright in the final image / video for a relatively realistic rendering; the camera would have brightened them up especially if a spot metering mode was used on them, also brightening up the rest of the scene and the colors would lose saturation due to tone mapping beyond middle grey. No one talks about this stuff really, there were no tutorials, I did lots of experimentation. Your exposures are looking good though, so keep what you're doing :)