I love epoxy ... as long as I can't see it after I'm done.

Ive been seeing so many ads for this stuff, so thanks for testing it! Love your work

Excellent information in a digestible presentation. Thank you. I think this is exactly the solution I needed.

I didn't know about it, and am very happy to have heard your comments. I don't do much filling and don't have serious time constraints, so will probably stick with epoxy. But it is nice to know what's out there!

Been ware of this type of thing, but this is first video I've seen that actually went through what it really was and how it works. Thank you.

I was looking at this but wanted a more neutral review (not one paid by them) and knew where to buy it in Oz. Thanks for this! I also hate epoxy due to its “leaking around the knot. Now I want to try it.

I too own this system. One tip I'd give is: Keep all those multi coloured lengths of filler you get when changing colours - they are perfect for any filling jobs that will get painted :)

Very interesting. I worked in a furniture mill to put myself through university. At the mill, we used hot melt glue to seal pitch pockets and fill around loose knots. It was quick, simple, and cheap. However, we kept the glue below the surface of the wood and used wood putty to fill the last 1/16". All of the joints in the furniture would be puttied before finish sanding, so using putty didn't take any additional time for drying. (Back then, we didn't call attention to such repairs by using a contrasting filler as is popular today. We tried to make the repairs blend in.) This stuff seems to be even quicker than the process I'm familiar with. It looks like it should work well. However, if I wanted the repair to blend in rather than stand out, I'd be tempted to use the method I described above. It still works.

Clever move by hammer roo to bring this to the Aussie market. I doubt however it will be long before Bangood sells one for $5. Pretty simple system to copy.

To reuse the scrapped-off excess you could use a plastic weld repair tool such as that used for broken car bumpers. It's basically a soldering iron with a triangular head.

good stuff, might buy after all my epoxy is used up.

Similarly, you can get a plastic welder for the same thing and you can choose the plastic. Also comes in handy for, well, welding plastic. Another method I've used is: melting small scrap bits of ABS plastic with acetone in a small glass jar. Once melted to a consistency of about peanut butter, I put acetone on the wood where I want to patch to help the melted plastic soak in, then goop it on. I've done this to fix torn out threads of a threaded insert, then reinserted the insert while the plastic was still melted. This is a decent torque application and it's worked like thickened epoxy, but much easier to smooth out (and almost free). I don't know how long it takes to dry in comparison since I just leave stuff overnight. Acetone evaporates quickly, but how long until it's sufficiently solid to clean up, I couldn't say. I think ABS can be had in different colors, but I wouldn't buy it just to use for this purpose and black is the most readily found, so keep that in mind for visual or finishing concerns.

Wood glue with saw dust used to fill gaps and holes is cheap and work wells. A piece of plastic with a weight can leave the surface fairly flat. It normally dries within a couple hours.

Polyamide is a type of hot melt that is used for moulding the plugs on the ends of your smartphone cables, for example. It gives a slightly tactile feel and is very durable. In my opinion, and I sell this stuff, $44 for 8 x 150mm of specially moulded and packaged sticks is not too bad. If you were an industrial user and bought several tonnes per year of pellets you would be doing well to pay much less than $70/kg. Plus you would need some moderately costly low pressure hot melt moulding equipment to do it efficiently

I've been using this for a while especially to fill cabinet holes when painting kitchen cabinets. Saves a ton of time. It doesn't get flat flat but a bit of condo and little extra primer takes care of that. In your situation i don't thing it needs to be flat flat, you can get away with that on stained or clear coated stuff. Hey thing is to make sure to sand before and scrape after.

What about a soldering station, the ones with digital temperature setter? If it worked it would be like the old plumber's soldering bars only using what you need.

I use epoxy only for historical or rot restoration

This reminds of how I use to melt polyethylene six-pack rings to repair gouges in snow skis. I never had one to pop out.

I use a router & bit to make a shape that covers the damaged area and glue that in with normal glue

Very interesting technique.

Given what the knot glue is made of, it is just plain ridiculous what they charge per stick. I would love to use it, but not at those prices and the investment to get a range of colours. It is obvious that the pricing is not realistic when they charge gold rates for alloy blocks. I'm sure every wood worker would buy this system if it was reasonably priced. I'm expecting the sellers will realise their mistake when Chinese versions flood the market and the premium brands just won't be able to catch up.

Would be good but seems expensive for what it is. I use Timbermate for small defects and epoxy for larger ones where I want to stabilise a crack. Epoxy is slower for sure but you can use faster hardners if needed. Cheers

Hey Paul, I’ve seen some woodworkers use those sticks and just melt them with a flame, drip the filler into the void and use the heat sink. Seems to work fine and no gun required. Have you tried it that way?

What ever happened to just using sawdust mixed with wood glue to fill gaps/dents and then sanding/plane-ing the surface after it dried? 🤔 It's one of the few tricks I remember my woodshop instructor teaching us nearly 35 years ago to hide the countersunk holes in our project.

Hint on tinted epoxy: dab a coat of clear epoxy on first, and once it goes off, follow with the tinted fill. No bleeding.

Great video. Do you think you could get away with heating the knot filler with a regular heat gun or flame, rather than using the proprietary "glue gun"? That way you'd just need to buy the sticks.

I have to put a coat of shellac before I pour in tinted epoxy.

Big fan of the surebonder pro series glue guns. They take 7/16 sticks though so just shy of 12mm. Wonder if they would still fit.

I will still use CA glue with sawdust but seems this may have a use for other fixes.

Thanks for sharing , I want one but I’m not 100% convinced at those prices. I just use good old black timbermate if I want something quick. I thought these types of guns ran a little hotter than a standard glue gun, but I might be wrong though.

mostly work with rough lumber and slabs. This will save me soooo much time from just waiting and doing nothing.

The best known polyamide is "Nylon". That's DuPont's product name. Are these sticks nylon with colours and fillers? The melt temperature is similar to hot melt glue.

Can you melt it using a kitchen blow torch like shellac sticks?

If you had a 'saver' form that was 11mm instead of 12, you could run them back through your bosch next time? I wonder if they could smashed through a dowel plate to get them into a cheaper 11mm glue gun? DUWW's idea of melting them straight in with a lighter already sounds easier. Starting with $50 worth of sticks looks more attractive than a $320 starter kit.

Is this similar to p-tex (low molecular weight polyethylene) used for ski/snowboard bases?

Thanks for the video. Did you consider using Tradies Bog from Bunnings mixed with coloured pigment?

To be honest 5-minute 2 component epoxy with a little bit of a sawdust works the best from all of the techniques.

Great tips thanks for sharing

Pour la mise en ouvre cest bien. Quelle resistance par rapport a lepoxi. Et est ce que ca penetre comme lepoxy?

Hi Paul, how would the filler go if you were wood turning a piece of say camphor laurel with deep cracks in it. Thanks Cheers Russell

Good info, thanks!

Have you tried melting black wire ties as a filler?

Are the filler sticks simply black stamping wax?

Like burn in sticks, but it gums up when sanded, not the same as epoxy that can be sanded, worked etc. Appears to have limited use is most woodworking,.

Do you know how it compares as to scratching, etc, against anything else? Come to think of it I have never seen a scratch test with any filler.

Where did you get that large cyclone I see in the background?

Loos a bit like "Stubai Woodrepair" which works nicely for little defects and cracks.

I hate epoxy as well. Nasty stuff. I usually just don't do anything to the voids. I find that I like the woodsjust the way it is with cracks, voids and all.

Hey, good job

I agree with you on the epoxy, but I don't see this as any better other than the time factor.

That price though. Omg.

Have you ever tried UV cure epoxy or sla 3d printer resin?

Thanks for your great videos. 🇦🇺👴🏻

Polyamide: translation - nylon.

melt cable strips,, easier

"plastic monstrosities" LOL seriously.

Thank you for fighting against the vile substance of epoxy, you're swell.

As much as I like the idea, it's a bit expensive. I'll grit my teeth and wait for the time of other methods to cure

CA Glue...

My biggest issue in this video is you keep calling it gross and no good explanation. It is messy, and can have some odor and other issues. A better solution I am open to, just not a fan of your description.

Gosh, youtube forced over 3 minutes of ads to watch this 10 minute video.

Great video not 😂seen this knot filler before.

Get to the point.

Does not speak clearly,mumbles too much