+Jordan Cope Hi Jordon, Thanks for commenting and the tips! That is a good idea and I will see how I can work on it. These cabinet jobs were hard to film because I was doing them on my days off and they were on a time schedule. I retired from construction, but kept my job on the Fire Dept. I wanted to concentrate on my videos and patents. My videos should start getting better. Have a good day! Paul

Hi Michelle, Thank you for watching and commenting, it means a lot to me! Remember this method is used when you have ceilings that are higher than 8'. If your ceilings are 8', you will have to mount the panels and cabinet separately on the wall. Paul

Yes I did screw the panel to the base cabinet. I clamp the styles together and I pre drill a pilot hole. I then use a coarse thread 2 1/2 inch all purpose screw screw to attach them. Remember, this method of assembling the panels and cabinet before installing is meant for ceilings that are over 8 1/2' high. Thank you for taking the time to comment and please let me know if you have any questions. Paul

Too bad I cannot sed see the whole cabinet from tip to bottom

I built an island in front of it. I have videos of this kitchen from start to finish. You can see more of it on my other videos.

ef2b Hi ef2b, If one of your refrigerator cabinets is next to your wall cabinets , you can screw the panel to the cabinet on the side of it. You will want a helper to hold the refrigerator cabinet against the back wall, so the front is flush with the style on the ref. panel. You can use 2 clamps, one close to the top and one close to the bottom of the cabinet. You will clamp the style of the cabinet to the style of the ref. panel. You can then screw the back of the cabinet to the back wall. Once the cabinet is secured to the wall,you can add the second panel to the cabinet with clamps. You can then pre-drill the cabinet and mount it to both panels. You can use a ledger board if you prefer. I will sometimes cut a 2x4 and use it on an angle to prop the bottom of the cabinet, holding it against the ceiling. I will use my foot to keep the board from sliding out. I hope this helps, but feel free to question me if I did not explain it well enough. I will do my best to help. Thanks! Paul

Paul-Thanks for the help. I installed the cabinet on Saturday, and now that I've done it I understand better what you're saying and it is better than what I did. I installed my right hand side, which is next to a cabinet, as you suggested, but then I measured out and placed my left hand return and spent lots of time fussing with details about where things would be. With the left panel installed, I hung the cabinet on the wall, then tied the face frame to the panels. Your way would be better, just working from one side to the other so that each step tells you where things will be. Much faster. In my case, I was dealing with an old house and I knew my opening was about 1/2" too narrow, so I had to rip the stile on the returns down by 1/4. I was focused on that then had to deal with the back wall which had uneven plaster that ate into my 24" depth at the top right corner by 1/4" and had to be chiseled out. It's all done. Looks fine, but next time I'll go from one side to the other, as you said. One warning to pass on. This cabinet was 36" wide and was built without a center vertical divider between the two doors, I guess to make it easier to get the shelf in or to save 50 cents. Without that divider, the bottom rail has some flex to it which stresses the joints at the bottom rail/stile. Next time, I'd look for a cabinet with a central divider for a 36" cabinet. I may use some pocket screws and add a divider. I can see that just handling the cabinet during installation stressed the joint (hairline through paint at the joint).

Hi ef2b, I should have specified that this type of install is for cabinets that do not go to the ceiling. Sorry! In your case, I would install you wall cabinets leading up to your Refrigerator panels. Once they are installed, you will be able to attach the panel to the standard wall cabinet.You will now remove the doors and shelf from your ref, cabinet and slide it in place. Use 2 clamps to hold the ref, cabinet against the style of the panel. Screw the back of the ref cabinet to the wall but do not screw it tight yet. attach the other panel to the opposite side of the ref. cabinet. Attach the panel to the cabinet by screwing them together. To stabilize the panel and keep it plumb, I add a piece of base board in between the panels and tack it to the panel with a small trim nail.The nail hole can be covered with a piece of shoe molding or you can fill the hole with a touch up putty. I will also tack a very small block of wood to the floor, just behind the panel style. I use knife grade epoxy for granite. It will stick to just about anything and it dries in minutes. I will then tack a small nail through the panel and into the block. I hope this helps. Thanks! Paul

ef2b, I almost forgot. Most of the time, cabinets that do not have a center brace or style in the middle, is a full overlay cabinet. Meaning the doors cover the entire cabinet. This gives you a large opening when double door cabinets are open. They are usually strong because this is an upgrade from standard overlay cabinets.( more expensive) If you install a deep cabinet next to a standard 12" cabinet, you will need to use a filler. Min,1/4", preferably a 1/2" filler. The same gos for any cabinets that are next to a wall. If this is not done, your doors may not open, they will rub .

Hi Angie, If you look at 7.23 on my video, you will see a 2x4 frame. I have one on the bottom and one on the top. I cut 4 pieces 33" long because my cabinet is 36" wide. I also cut 4, 6" 2x4's for the sides of the frames. My 2x4's are 1.5" thick, so the frames will be 6" x 36" each. I screwed them to the wall at the top and bottom of the cabinet.

Angie, Part 2, I attached the frames to the studs using 2.5" screws. I then attached the back of the cabinet to the 2x4 frames. If you go to the following link, you will see the refrigerator in place. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/e52idpOpqp6XZ4U.html I hope this helps,let me know if you have any questions. Thanks and Good Luck! Paul

Paul Ricalde Thanks for the reply. I saw the frame built behind it in the video but wanted to know how you built it in behind the cabinet. My cabinet will also be 36"W but will be 24H and 24D.Thanks for the videos! They are detailed and to the point with do's and don'ts. I appreciate the editing without the long drawn out explanations like other videos too.

ANGIE NELSON You can make the frames 1st and screw them to the wall. You may want to pre- drill your holes on an angle, if you do not have an angle screw gun. Another option is to screw your upper 33", 2x4 to the wall, attach your sides and then your other 33" piece. It all depends on how much room you have to work with. I hope I don't confuse you. It is much easier to explain on video, I should have shown that in my video. Sorry about that! Let me know if you understand. If not, I will try a different approach. Thank you for the comment! Paul

Yes it is a 1x2. This one is factory made. This wood is maple but you can use any hardwood. Thanks! Paul