Your troubleshooting skills are outstanding! Mad skills, common sense, thinking outside the box and great scan tools are all present in your videos.

Nice diagnoses so far Ivan. can't wait for part 2. Well the correct relays were replaced in my truck!!

Fascinating case study Ivan. Running Pico on that touchscreen Acer laptop is a sweet setup. Thanks!

Ivan you will love your PICO man. In Holland we have a company which have all the good signals stored for use of the Pico, so you can compare the signals in a blink of your eye. But my guess; the faulty relais is still in place.

I say it's that generic relay. Just went through a relay diagnosis on my Volvo 940. Fan would remain on even with key off. Looked at the fan relay, and it was aftermarket. Grabbed an OEM one off my parts car, and it was fixed. Not much diagnostics - just alot of hunches, but it worked. I did unplug the 3 A/C high side pressure switches, and the radiator temp switch, and saw that it remained on. That's as advanced as I got. :) Lots of crap parts out there today, so I lean towards that generic relay being the problem. Control side works, but secondary side doesn't complete the connection.

A few years ago i had a few intermittent faults on a ford Focus, finally tracked it down to bad solder joints on the relay/fuse box itself, the pcb had been poorly flow soldered. When the car was cold a few of the joints would act up, but once the pcb had warmed a little the joints expanded enough to work. Interesting video to watch, i look forward to the conclusion.

Good video Ivan!!!...my guess is:...test all the 3 relays out of the fuse box. visual inspection (color, melt plastic, noise, blabla bla), visual inspection to all the fuses out of the box. Then judge the components condition. Place the fuses and relays where you want them!!! and you can try to trip the same code on purpose, no matter cold or hot engine. Evaluate the components. Then you can see if the problem is in that place or the problem came from some place else!!!...I think the problem is a bad relay (either control or power side), or a faulty relay connection. Well that is my guess!!!!...thank you so much for making your videos Ivan!!!!....that touch screen computer is awesome (scope fuction)!!!!

Nice scope! I am impressed as a grasshopper can be Master Ivan. Thanks for the lesson.

Oh man wish we would have a great data base in Europe. can't wait to see the 2nd part

One of your best ---- you always we seem to get some unusual puzzles to solve.

Hey I'm waiting on Eric O's guess and going with it . Nice channel Ivan !

Just a couple ideas! Most ECMs use an ice break strategy to free the throttle plate should it be frozen from most air in cold temperatures. It is programed to rock the throttle plate back and forth to break the ice on cold start up. Make sure the reported engine coolant temp and air temp readings are valid. Check the throttle plate for binding as a stuck plate could cause an excessive voltage drop across the TP motor.

Nice Labscope I have always wanted a pico so much stuff you can do with them. Currently have a snapon scope. Good testing Ivan

Electronic Tecs. use Freez Spray to simulate the cold condition of a component at will and save the cold soak time.

That inductiv spike tells me that the relay is lazy when it is cold :)

I enjoyed the video very much and the length or part 1. It is hard to view over a half hour for me so, thanks and hope to see part two tomorrow.

Looks like they changed out the wrong relay and the aftermarket relay appears to be working b/c you have no O2 sensor codes but you usually have a twist to these scenarios so looking forward to Part 2. Nice case study so far!

New toy ?... Welcome to the world of pico ... regards John

You are really clever! I am only a weekend warrior, but want to learn more about diagnostics :-)

That scope is cool.

I kid you not !!!! - this sequence of P2102 _ Throttle Low signals is the same as a Subaru EJ25 engined kit car 'im working on. Either takes 2 starts to get running, ....and/or long cranking starts...sometimes ends up in "Limp Home" mode. Have the power on, clear codes and you heard Electronic Throttle Body reset - then you can start and rev car normally. The wiring loom has been "modified/cut/modded" by previous owner. And there is a "mystery Isolation switch" behind the seats, that needs to be switch on in the right sequence with ignition. I can make car flag P2102 at will. Can make car start and rev at will. Can make car drop into limp mode at will..... These all depends on on that "Mystery Isolation Switch" ....which I now believe , after seeing your most helpful video, is the "Lost/missing ETC relay"..that the car builders forgot to install....so they just hacked a toggle switch in place. The other give away is that if , with the key off, you toggle that switch, you hear noises from the engine. - sounds like electronic throttle motor, also the Idle Air Control Valve chatters. Leaving mystery switch on flattens battery ..to the tune of 0.5amp . Where did you get that circuit diagram - Subaru manual ?? Thanks again !

You should get some Freeze75, it's great stuff for chasing down heat related issues, allowing one to cool specific areas of a circuit which acts up due to warming up (or starts behaving, as in this case). In a pinch, a can of DustOff or somesuch held upside down works too, but you end up using a lot more product for the same result.

My money's on the generic relay. Sometimes generics are good, but nothing beats OEM parts

I'm kind of leaning towards the relays being made different and they swapped the O2 heater relay. The one for the Throttle probably should have a higher amp rating and/or with spike protection for the higher inductive load of the throttle motor to keep from burning the contacts.

we don't guess right? Only this time, I think somebody did some swaptronics before you, not taking into account issues like green crusties? maybe the new relais got slightly infected. After initial turn on it kind of breaks loose and works like it's supposed to.

Wow awesome diagnosis!

Looking at the wire diagram where the ETC relay is...it appears as though they replaced the wrong relay (look at where the fuses are located in the diagram). If not; possible sticking relay.

Hey Ivan I just want to say thank u for being so unselfish to share ur knowledge with all of us. I'm new to this diagnostics but have already in 3 months of being on the scannerdanner premium channel did two no starts understanding wiring diagrams. My question to u is how did u get so good. What advice do u have for me as far as research. CAN U please share ur thoughts. Thank u.

nice diagnostic, at 2:09 I get confuse criteria for setting code computer expect to see high voltage in less than 400 ms when grounded the relay is that right? how ever it say ok if occurred in 2,000 ms, Can you explain me a little bit professor I get confused some times with setting criteria like this and I know are key in diagnostic. 2000 ms is more time

Always looking fwd to your videos.

After watching scannerdanner use the PICO many times I'm starting to realize it does have some advantages. Nothing like putting the money right back into your business. Will we be watching you work from your own shop someday or are you happy with being a mobile tech? I understand there are advantages to either. Great case study, I appreciate that you brought us along.

Connection internal to relay breaking down based on temperature caused contraction or expansion

Looks like they replaced the wrong relay, also in minute 22:12 you mentioned not worrying about the feed to the ETC relay, but notice there are 2 different fuses (MB-24 is for ETC relay and MB-23 powers main relay), so why not connect Channel A to that fuse wire, Channel B to the ETC relay output at the ECM, and Channel C to the control wire at the ECM ? or just swap the new heater relay with the actual ETC relay and see what happens.

I have a 2014 Forester XT with a "Random Misfire" code. It only triggers a check engine light when I first crank the car and its warming up. I clear the code and a few weeks later it pops on again with a cold start. Super annoying. This started to happen after the dealer reflashed my ECM with a newer map.

Nice scope...

Cant wait for part2, btw. no cooling spray somwhere near you? Sometimes it helpes to find such problems

Lets see, Im guessing relay connectors are a little out of wack, and when they are cold not good connection, when they get just a little warm, a good connection is made and its off we go.

great video Ivan I'm suspecting that the one relay have an internal diode on the control circuit and the generic relay dosent seen this many times where's the launch pad I put the picoscope on my launch pad and it works

Um..If the customers home ask if its OK to put the suspect relay in his freezer for a spell and cool it off. Make any sense? Verus scope is a toy compared to the PIco.

wrong replacement relay?

Can this code create a none spark issue

Hey Ivan, how about throwing some rulers on the initial KOEO event to measure the time that the main relay stayed on and see if the time measured matches up with code setting criteria. Is the Pico new to you? You're really going to like it, hope you got it through Autonerdz, their support and training are the best.

Plot twist. Back after these messages...

Probably the relay has contact issues. Alot of the relays now days are made at the ping pong factory in China.

Hi Ivan, I have a question for you. I have a 2007 Honda Ridgeline with 110,000 miles on it. I just started to have this problem that I can't figure out. When I drive at night with the head lights on they go from bright to dim. When I'm driving and give some gas they go dim and when I let off the gas they get brighter. The battery is new along with the head lamps. I am thinking that it's the alternator. What do you think? Thanks Craig

Tune in next week for the continuing Subaru Saga....

Hey Ivan, What model PicoScope do you have there? I'm looking at purchasing one and I'm wondering if you got one of their really expensive automotive kits or the more modestly prices consumer kits? Thanks

Do the" relay dance" and see if it operates normally.

I say the relay. that bouncing when the relay activates makes me think there's some green crusties in the relay. hope you cut it open after you swap it.

along the lines of relay replacement//was it you that had a video up where the relay was replaced with a cheapo Vs OEM and it was not being trigger correctly??..other then that no guess from me ..so no super mega bonus points for me :(

what software are you using for the laptop??

Very interesting case study. Is that your Pico?

Good move acquiring the PICO. Hope you sourced it through AutoNerdz to get full value out of the equipment. It is a fun and powerful tool. How Long have you had that toy?

I bet they replaced the wrong relay. Also why would you put a cheap Chinese relay in a vehicle when you could get a Denso one to do the job. I have really not seen that many Denso bits go bad. A clutch switch, a few voltage regulators and a few relays here and there.

спасибо.

Nice vid Ivan. I have been watching yours and Eric O^s channel for some time now. I also follow the scanner man. I am a tech here in Australia and have been for 30 plus years and hust decided to put up my own video for the first time. Presentation needs working on but it was my first. Check it out if you will

Where's Eric, we need 5 minutes of grumbling/cussing of after market parts. So funny to see a young guy sounding just like the old cronies we used to make fun of when I was a teenager. Only then it was, 'Dam hippies, the world is going to hell in a hand basket'. He gets wound up on it too. Rightfully so I'm going to add, a recent snafu with a Cadillac purge vent valve shows many you buy right off the shelf are stuck open too. Now that's some godawful quality control right there. My guess is after market relay is crap.

👍👍😎

Seems to me that Subaru doesn't have the reliability they use too. Great looking cars still.

Wish this guy lived near me lol i have a 98 GMC k1500 4x4 305 vortec has spark fuel air turns over starts to start and nothing then smells bad of gas like its flooded lol

Those relays are junk. I have replaced many on cranes because the contacts do not handle much load. Not even for a horn. I have a few new ones in stock 10 feet from me right now.

They replaced wrong relay

get a can of air and cool the relay

Ivan DO NOT let the radio play while doing videos. KZfaq will copyright strike you in a heartbeat for it. It'd be best to cut that audio out and dub over the video. Seriously, even a couple seconds is all it takes and you won't be able to get ad money or upload more than 15 min vids. Check out #WTFU "Where's The Fair Use" started by KZfaqrs: Channel Awesome and Nostalgia Critic for more info.

cheap relay is the issue. subarus don't like cheap Chinese parts.

Carbon build up

china!!!!!!!!