This topic has been addressed dozens of times. This version is straightforward and clear without being simplistic. Bravo!

I have a dedicated notes section on my phone with all my suspension settings, so I can experiment and always have my baseline settings to return to if needed while on a ride, as one can't remember all that stuff

This is the most sensible presentation I've ever seen of this topic. The difference of high and low compression finally makes sense to me.

Yes! I needed this. Trek had me lazy the last 10 years with their setup chart working perfectly for me. I never had to learn a single thing on my 14 trek slash. New bike with ohlins is now foreign

When Aaron Gwin was in his Prime somewhere between 2010 to 2014, he explained his preferred setup, which was very firm, firmer than recommended by manufacturers. I tried his approach and liked it very much.

She's great at presenting. Very clear.

Fun watching you film this. You are all so nice and patient with all of my questions

Why is Christina so freaking 🔥. Hypnotic.

That was the most easy way to understand whats up. Bravo Pinkbike !

Great video. Simple yet informative. I always make a spreadsheet that notes of the adjustments made and how it felt and if times were better or not. make small changes and see what they do. Never make multiple changes.

Good grief.... This was excellent. I've watched some pretty good fork setup videos, and this was still by far the best. Thanks

Just got a new Stumpjumper yesterday and was looking up tutorials on setting sag and rebound. This one is very comprehensive, thanks!

I had my Lefty Strut of 6 years dialed in to a tee. My brand new Habit 2 Carbon is way off, but I am working at it. It truly is a balance of air pressure, sag , rebound, compression, and preferences. As someone else mentioned, note, notes, notes! I keep them with my shock pump.

This is the best fork setup explanation I have seen! I can't wait to tweek my fork with this new knowledge!

The more I watch fork and shock set up videos the more confused I get 😂

This is my first year on a squish and this is the most straight forward video I've seen on setting sag! Thank you!!

Learned some more stuff I should have known already, thank you for this video!

Just a shout out for the excellent vid AND to SRAM for their current line of ZEB forks… I’ve been riding/racing for 15 years and this Zeb was the most logical, most fun (out of the box) fork yet. A few clicks of LSC, HSC or rebound and the whole attitude changes. I’m sure OHLINS is also amazing… but I have to say thanks to the SRAM team. I can tune this fork for Santa Cruz steeps on Saturday, then a few clicks and it’s Whole Enchilada time… it’s really amazing.

I’m fairly new to full suspension mountain biking and I’m learning more and more about my suspension every day through trail and error on my canyon spectral

YOU, are a very natural and skilled presenter! Great job!

I find the best way is just trial and error, I usually have about 15mm to 20mm of unused travel on my 130mm fork after a run at the bike park, and if I let air out to use more travel it actually feels worse, so don't be too concerned about how much unused travel you have, just go by how it feels, and I always run my fork with compression damping fully open.

Great video as always coming from Christina! It would be nice to have a video solely on how to set up your suspension for jumping so you don't get bucked. Weather it's your fork moving too fast and your rear moving too slow or vice versa how to get a balanced suspension setup for jumping

Great video Christina, cheers

Great video, best explanation without any extra babble. Nice job

Love this vid, I'm now going to check my forks and reset them, as I've probably got it all wrong...😬

I know with a hard tail bike with longer than 4" of fork travel, the slack head tube angles may be of help for stability, but slack head tube angles do hinder turning ability. For full suspension bikes, a slack head tube angle is probably overkill for stability as you can balance the suspension, and i never hear people who say they like the sacker angles mention the turning ability they lose. IMO, if you steering is not "head shaking" on your most extreme stuff, (with proper body positioning for rough downhills), then you head tube angle is probably more slack than you need, and you are losing turning ability. Of course, if there is a berm in every corner, a Harley Chopper can still dive into it. I think the modern slack head tubes are probably overkill for the best all around handling of the bike.

Christina is fabulous!!! Thanks pinkbike

I have an SunTour Epixon! Not much settings there, haha, but is reliable as hell!

Amazing this is exactly what me and my Öhlins need!

Putting the caliper in touch with the stanchions freaked me out. I drew the sag max and min in a cardboard so I can get it close without the risk of a scratch. 😅😊

Most riders run way to much sag front and rear which creates a harsh ride due to the suspension constantly being caught in mid+ stroke. This causes the suspension to feel harsh as it’s stuck in the progressive end of the stroke. Also, all bikes have different compression ratios and suspension does NOT know what bikes it’s bolted to. Using suspension mfg recommended settings is worthless. Pick your bike up, level, and drop it from a couple feet up and see which end bounces. Both ends should not bounce.

Awesome delivery of information.

Ohlins better set me up with a fork so I can set all those adjustments properly!!

I can’t believe how helpful this was.

I love you Christina!

Awesome work Christina! 🔥 Love the content! 🤘

Good Video with great Info all in one Video! Great work

An air spring is inherently progressive by nature and influences the damping curve (ideally, it should not). The fact that most riders just run the low speed circuit fully open is really due to how much of an impact the air spring has, as the piston that is shimmed inside of the damper is what should control the damping forces (by restricting the oil flow before it reaches the shim stack on the piston) via that exact adjuster. Rendering it a fairly useless adjustment unless you re-valve the damper for specific weight, speed and terrain you are riding.

Awesome information! Thanks!

That blue Fox shirt is epic!

From what I hear Ohlins is tip top manufacturer of suspension. I wish I had a chance to try some of their products.

What a great video and presentation!!!! thank you

I Run Both My Enduro And DH Bike 100% Both Coiled 😎

Mtb is not only enduro and downhill. . Also its recommended not to keep the pomp attached when putting pressure on the demper

On a different topic, your body position when sending it off the drop at 5:50 was better than any Richard Drew video.

It's not what Ohlins say about the setting on their owner manual when you pump the bike until the correct pressure in the main chamber. May be it's why i have to put 30psi more in the ramp up and main chamber compare to their recommandations.

I need that suspension in my life 🙏👌🏻❤️

Videos like this make me want to ride full rigid.

Excellent.

Good evening . im following your journey and because of you i also purchase Ohlins rxf36 160 mm travel and ttx2 150 mm travel.. we have a common riding style but dont know how to setup my psi and rebound.. im 64 kilograms.. I Hope that you can help me with the Setup.. Even how many clicks and psi for my weight is a big Help.. 🙏.. i hope you can read my messages...

gotta accept the squish when youve got a shock thats no longer in production and sizing is so tricky to understand. need 100 more pounds to mine

I am definitely here for the charming personality

Pinkbike is really killing it lately with the bike setup videos

I am mot a suspension surgeon or anything fancy like that. But isnt low speed what really sets the rate of damping through the whole stroke end the high speed only affects the end of the stroke? As I am not an fork or shock rocket engineer I asked our good friends at PENSKE and they told me, through the power of Google, that: -Also, when making a big adjustment in high or low speed, the change will affect the other in a small percentage. As an example, the high speed is set at (+4) and the low speed at (-6). Now you want to set the low speed to (-2), this will also increase a percentage of the high speed force figure. By dropping the high speed from (+4) to (+3) would compensate for this low speed change so the overall “damper curve” would remain intact. The more experience you have with these the easier it will become to recognize what changes can occur in relation to different valvings. The tendency of these circuits to “cross talk” is greatly reduced in our new digressive CD piston. Thanks PENSKE! So if you have a closed LSC and no HSC added it will still give you a lot of support at high shaft speeds. But the other way around isn't true. Closed HSC will not help you on the overall feel of the fork - just in high shaft speed situations.

It would have been nice to also discuss volume spacers and when you should consider adding or removing them from your setup. Otherwise a good video. 👍

Thank you.

I am new to mtb and my fork doesn't have that weight-pressure table, did it mean to actually adjust it I can just pump it and check the travel percentage like in the video?

great info...thanks

The carbon forks on my giant yukon are always perfect no matter the temp hahah

Nice tap

if this can help anyone I just did 60miles 4770ft on a muscular cross-country fox34 120mm fit4 the descent was rough to say the least, i don't dh there are no official tracks here anyway at the end of the day the o-ring wasn't even at half the fork at fox recommended for my weight pressure, I slightly deflated to get almost max travel (touching the kashima text) when jumping it degraded my uphill pedaling which might have been a bad idea in front of a 18% 1:6 slope >< but yes the downhill were more pleasant now I still didn't get anywhere near max travel as...well you need to jump or do big drops for that and I don't normally so don't expect to have that travel on mild trails, my sag went way lower and now even on lock the rear shock is noticeably moving up and down if not by much overall I did not gain what I hoped and am just asking too much of a 120-120 setup I mostly got more pedal pump effect and on open the fork had the tendancy to plunge too much on mid sized obstacles and corners open became unuseable for anything else than flat-ish downhills float became the new open and locked the new float, am going to roll it back to recommended pressures I understood that unless you completely underinflate to the point your bike is not going to work properly it's normal to stay in that half-travel point without pro-level jumps or drops

I set the fork on my 20 lbs XC hardtail at 15% sag and it's still crazy bumpy on trails.

Did you study suspension settings from Ohlins? I can tell you learned from some very knowledgeable people.

Damping is at least 70% of the equation. Soft forks will follow terrain better and provide braking when needed while hard forks will chop through the rough and be harder to gain control, but on big drops and big hits you can't beat the hard forks. LOL Still, damping is everything

Those ohlins are so pretttyyyy

i always go for 20% sag front, 30% sag rear, i prefer a livelier ride with a subtleness

Those jorts are 🔥

if i follow this guide i only have like 70mm of travel left , sag based on pecentage is not they way rather just go buy the psi/weight and adjust up or down till it suits your preference

Has anyone tried this? : My max recommended front fork is 150mm but comes with 140. I'm thinking of adding the 150mm damper to my bomber z2 140mm and running with more sag to keep it in that sweet spot to theoretically improve small bump sensitivity without changing the active head angle.

I always kind of thought of tightening a valve as a way to restrict oil, then I got a Ripmo AF with DVO and it's totally backwards, really threw me off

Excellent info! Did anyone else cringe seeing the sharp calipers near the stanchion?!?!

Anyone know what stem that is? It looks like it has a little bit of rise, which I've only found in the i9 option for 50mm length with a 35mm clamp

Rule of thumb: Your rear shock should bottom out on the hardest impacts of the day. Your fork should be able to bottom out but only when you have an "Oh sh*t!" moment. Other than that I just ride it like I stole it.

Anybody know where to get fenders for the Ohlins forks in the video?

There is no perfect setup. Just adjust until you are happy with the compromises. 😆

Don't leave the pump attached while equalising the chambers

Fully anti clockwise isnt always fully open. Some forks like DVO are the other way around

How do i set up my fox 36 performance for bike park, i dont wanna bottom out my suspension on jumps but i wanna go smooth down the tech

Nice jorts.😉🤘❤️

The older I get the softer I like it😁

I have a new 160mm Domain RC fork on my Trek Rail. I am finding it quite harsh, no matter what pressure I go with. I have tried lowering the pressure and removing a token but just feels really stiff. The compression is open and running quite fast rebound - just feels really slow. My last fork was a 120mm Revelation which I got second hand and rode good when I got it, then amazing after i serviced it and ran less than the guided air pressure. it just feels nowhere near as plush as the rear suspension, nor as active as my Revelation Is this because it is a new fork? The bike is a 2022 model so will have sat around waiting for sale to me recently. I am tempted to do a lower leg service on it to freshen up the lowers. Any tips i should try before I order the kit?

Why don't all forks and shocks have the sag setting on the in the stanchions and shafts, like Rockshox? Pro's ride stiff setups w fairly open compression.

I still think you should be doing these in a lab coat Dr. Christina. But I’m not gonna argue about it!

For me, I look up the max pressure it will take, add that and test in the middle position. If I get anything over 10% I'll add more air anyway. It will still bottom out every ride, but maybe it won't destroy my wheels or break the frame. It very roughly comes out to half your weight for the front, and your weight plus 25 lbs for the rear.

1:49 - oil? Thought i had air

Why doesn't anyone talk about tire pressure in conjunction with suspension setup?

I have terrible hand pain at the end of every ride, Ive got a fox 38, I feel that It might be too firm. Any idea what I'm doing wrong?

I think it's important to set your tire pressure to your preferred riding pressure before you measure and adjust your sag

yes, but im 99kg, not 39kg

Used this method on my 100mm travel bike. My wrists were nearly shot after the day. Way to firm.

But what is the safest setup ? Meaning the setup that gives you the least chances to fall or get bucked off I ride with no protective gear at all 😅

Is this the first video with no hat on?

"Mr Setup" going deep into the stroke is less likely to be because they run soft, they just ride that hard. If an average rider of the same weight tried to run the same settings, they would no doubt find it very firm and not use the travel.

This was very hard to Follow, I didn’t understand it. Please make it simpler

If only I could afford a bike with high and low speed settings

TIRES : More air.....Less air. " mic drop"

I have Ariete seal kits . Are they good , anyone .

hey whats your wrist say? remember the ugly? then what ? Ive got " you are so worth the fight " on mine :)

I... know some of these words

There is literally no correct way to set up a fork, it all depends on user weight, preference, and use case. Suspension does more than smooth bumps and drops. It reliably keeps your wheel on the ground and can act as a springboard to help with clearing obstacles such as curbs or logs.