Glad to help! Thanks for watching!

That sucks dude. Beautiful though for a week or so

I'm sorry for any work you have to do outside. I would die if I had to run everything 13' underground. We have so many outside water lines for our business, any repairs (like I'm doing right today and tomorrow) would be crazy.

well that's nothing I had to put my pitless at 12 inches here in the TX panhandle. Probably could have been 2 inches. hahaha

Glad it was helpful!

Depending on the depth of the well, you will also have check valves on the drop pipe, directly above the pump and one built into the top of the pump. If this a shallow well set, you may only have the one in the top of the pump and if that valve has failed, you will lose water back down to the static water level. If that is only 20 feet above the pump and the hole is 70 feet, you are going to loose water from the check valve up top all the way to the the check valve that has failed. Best thing to do is to have a professional pull it and replace the check valve that has gone bad.

Glad you enjoyed it!

Good question. The depth of your piping in the well will determine what tool is used to pull it, anything over 100' will likely require a hoist of some kind. The size of the threads is most commonly 1" or 1.25".

Either 1", 1.25", or sometimes 2"

Nice!

Thanks for the kind words! The pitless adapter should be installed below the frost line and on the side of well casing where the supply line will run from well. As long as the well is capped/sealed at the top there shouldn't be any freezing issues.

@@RCworstwater Thanks for the reply!

We generally dig a 2x2 hole in the side of the casing at least 18 to 20inches deep

Glad it was helpful!

You'll likely just have to buy another. Not sure how you would fish that out...

That's not typical, but if your well casing is large enough I don't see an issue with it.

Call a professional. the first thing people do is loosen bolts on the well seal and that is the first mistake. The nuts on the bottom of those bolts fall into the well and jam the pump when you are trying to pull. A professional will save you time, Money and frustration if you just let them do it from the start,

He said with a torch or carbide hole saw. Both of which aren't in your common home tool kit. A torch would be oxy acetylene, or a plasma cutter. Carbide hole saws are a little pricey, I just checked and its about $20 just for the saw and that is if you already have the mandrel.

Pull the pump and pray to God it doesn't fall down

My pitless adapter has a blind 1 inch hole on the top side. The handle is a long length of 1 inch steel pipe with a tee and short pipe nipples forming handles. Does that make sense? You reach down the well, looking with a flashlight, and screw the homemade tool into the pitless adapter, then pull up the pump. The handles prevents you from accidently dropping everything down the well.

they are a "one size fits all" they are not made specific to the size of the casing. that is a non determining factor in pitless setups. one that fits a 4" casing can and will fit a 6" casing.

Nylon rope

Nothing wrong with that: I have the same thing on one of my wells, with a nice looking pumphouse enclosing everything. Although we can hit minus 40C I'm very happy with this setup.

Out the stop is best,if you have to pull said pump all you do if propery done is shut off and unhook power uncouple a union and pull pump,pitless you basicly hav no choice but to make a huge mess.

@@paulmaxwell8851 Is your well house heated? If not, how does it not freeze with the water coming out of the top?

how would that be better than a pitless adapter? a ball valve cannot dis connect and re connect in the event that the pump needs to be pulled, and thats not a question of if it will happen, its when. last time i looked at ball valves they do not disconnect at any point of the valve, let alone withstand 6000 psi lol.

Any links to what you'd call a proper well building? I might make one.

@@privacyatty Basicly a shed big enough to house the pressure tank filter if need and still have room to do servicing and cleaning. The floor should be concrete ,insulation in the walls to regulate temeprature.

@@scottfoster2487 should I put it over well head. I'm not that keen on a pitiless adapter where I got another well drilled. It's a really wet area.

If you don't have a pitless adapter, you need to prevent water freezing up to the surface, and any where pipes are run. This will vary by your local climate, so for me, I would probably need to have some sort of heater going. This would include your well head because you will have water running there. Don't forget, water freezes at 0C, 32F, 273K and the higher pressures in the system don't change that enough to really matter. It won't be exact for your water (its not pure water) but its close enough.

@@snoopdogie187 Yeah I don't see how a well house could work unless it's heated or in a somewhat mild climate.