For years my old farm house no one lived in it but I went out there lots time in summer. Every year I would pay a plumber $60.00 year just to drain my pipes so would not freeze. Finally honest plumber came out and showed me cut water off going to house then open all faucets flush toilet and they would not freeze. I was so thankful to him.

I’ve been building a small homestead for a couple of years now. This is the most thorough, accurate, clear cut, informed, humble, and easy to understand tutorial I’ve ever watched. Not only well driving, but on any construction project. And I’ve watched hundreds of videos. I’m also in medical school. For the love of God, could you please come in and teach a couple lectures on cardiac surgery?

Best technology video ever . . . . no serious . . . engineers and tech people love to know how things work. I was held fascinated by the engineering and design tech of old school water wells.

Sycamore trees.... are a sign of water.... your video was the best advice! Thanks!

I honestly feel like l just attended an advanced college level class in well digging and maintenance. You sir are a natural born teacher! Thank you.

So thankful for this. My wife and I are moving to our property this coming Tuesday. We have no water, no electricity. Thank you for making this. I am installing next week. I'll let ya know how it goes. 💪🙏

I'm a introvert also homesteading in NC , it was nice to meet you through this video.

This is one of the best KZfaq tutorials I have ever watched.

Just came across this video. Excellent advice throughout. A couple thoughts from this retiree's former experience: 1. First and foremost, the presentation on maximum water depth is spot on. If the water table is below 25 feet from the ground surface, suction lift hand pumps are not practical. 2. Make sure you are in an area where the water table is in unconsolidated sediments, sands and such. No bedrock. Some areas with sand also can contain some rocks, you may have to move the well location a few times. 3. Ask around to see if the shallow groundwater is readily drinkable without treatment. In some areas, the shallow groundwater can have high solids content, odor, bad taste, you name it. Most areas will have good water. But no guarantees either way, it's worth checking beforehand. 4. Well point drive/slide hammers are available commercially. I've used them in groundwater work. Search "piezometer point slide hammer" or "well point drive hammer" and you can find them. If you buy a groundwater industry product, be prepared for some sticker shock, as they'll likely be a few hundred dollars. As an alternative, look into fence post and T-post drivers from vendors such as Tractor Supply. IMPORTANT - whatever you buy, make sure the working diameter of the hammer fits with the well pipe diameter you're using. I don't know enough to specify a specific hammer for a specific well pipe, sorry. Maybe other viewers can? I always used matched slide hammer/piping/well points from groundwater supply vendors in my work, but again but this would be an expensive route to take and there are alternative products. 5. Hopefully you'll never have to remove the well. Great points were discussed in this video regarding the evils of soil pressure and friction associated with the couplings and the well point. It will likely not be easy but more often than not it can be done. The tripod suggestion is on target, a rigged winch/come-along can work. For safety's sake - watch those cables and stay clear, there will be a lot of tension. If you are fortunate and end up with a working slide hammer, you can also add a length of well pipe extension above ground, slip the hammer over it, add the threaded drive cap, and pound upwards instead of downward as when you installed the well. Again, all hammer/pipe/cap diameters must work with each other. But at this point you'll know if this will work if you successfully used this method to install the well. 6. If you're in an area with nearby industry, gas stations, feedlots, etc. make your first call to the local or state environmental protection office. They will have information as to whether there are any known sources of groundwater contamination in your area. Don't put your well anywhere near your septic system's leach field! Regarding the first three items - initial information sources can include the usual suspects (family, friends and neighbors). Local feed stores, hardware stores that sell the points might work. County agricultural extension offices, local county or state environment protection offices may work, also the State Geologist's office. Local engineering or environmental consulting firms are a possibility. Be patient if contacting these offices, as finding that right person may take some doing. Some scientists and engineers love helping the public when a non-routine question such as this comes up, others not so much! Be careful with providing TMI as the subject of permitting may come up with certain regulatory offices. If you don't wish to contact the government offices because of privacy concerns, you could instead do a computer search on ground water quality in ___ County ___ State. Similar search for groundwater depth. Naming convention as to whether to use "groundwater" or "ground water," one or two words? Use both alternatives in your searching. Apologies for rambling, hope this helps. Good luck!

You can buy a pipe driver. Look for the very heavy steel tee post driver. Don’t bother with the light weight ones. Mine is about 30 pounds but is longer than what you are using. At 14 feet I hit blue clay and it was pretty tough going until I broke through that at 20 feet. After that it was fairly easy. Took most of one day but I’m no spring chicken at nearly 70. Good video.

You guys have no idea how much y’all have changed our lives. Through your super instructional videos, we’ve gained the confidence to start doing things on our own and have since built two rooms, saved tons of money and are getting ready to implement a hand pump and who knows what else. I just want to say thank you so much to you and Brooke for your time.

Still watching this even after two years. Thank you so much for posting this.

Nice job, on your tutorial. I have a couple of points, however. 1.) If you use Teflon tape, and pipe dope on top, you will have a great seal, and IF you have to take it apart, for some reason(You probably will, your first time.), then the tape will minimize the mess. Also, I have been around pipe dope and Teflon tape for more than 30 years, and I have seen them BOTH leak, but I have NEVER seen the combination of the two leak. On another note, I prefer the grey pipe dope. It is less apt to cracking with age. 2.) There is such a thing, called a "Fence Post Hammer", that will work for your "well hammer". Good job.

This was excellent! And I like the way you were not goofy, silly, or trying to act like a comedian and telling stupid jokes or acting like a fool, which unfortunately far too many KZfaqrs engage in. And another huge thumbs up for not playing background music to further annoy your viewers. And you got right into the content without telling us your life story first. First class presentation.

I helped my dad dig 5 shallow wells in the 60s and 70s. They still work!

Man I hope you know how much you're helping the uninformed city slicker that has to bootstrap fast to prepare for end games 🙏🏼

As always, you make me feel like I could actually do this. Thank you

Yes, .. I agree with the fella that said that THIS is THEEEE BEST video on well water / ground water extraction ever that I have seen on KZfaq

Know zero about wells and pumps but must say, you explained everything so well that I can do this! GREAT JOB Sir....

I don't know if it's been mentioned, but make sure your ball valve is made of lead-free brass / rated for potable water. You don't want lead leaching into your drinking water. Probably not a big deal but worth mentioning. (Brass often has lead added because it improved machinability enormously.) Stainless Steel would also work well.

I’m getting ready to do a hand pump well and am so grateful that God led me to your video. Thank you for such complete, clear and concise info on parts needed and each step in the process. You are a Godsend.

I drank some old well pump water on a old farm once was the coldest water I ever had.

That’s the best example of a well done job and honest explanation. Thank you.

I have 1 question. WHY AM I JUST NOW LEARNING ABOUT THIS!!!! Been a prepper my entire life. Watch youtube every day and Im just now coming across this. Thank KZfaq algorithm! Good job.

Did this 30 years ago on my farm in Indiana. This covered everything very well. This is by far the best explanation / tutorial I have ever seen. Great job!!!

A very good instruction on well points. 50+ years ago my father and I installed several of them(from Sears). My father made an adapter for his jack hammer to drive the point and pipe. I stood in the bucket of the loader, with the jackhammer to drive the point down. Dad lowered the bucket as the pipe went into the ground. It worked well. This was before OSHA. Good Luck, Rick

All these years wasting time watching Netflix or playing video games while raising 4 kids on my own. I LOVE learning and your show is really fun. Now Im not only watching yours but others that help me learn the things I want to learn. Yours was the first. LOVE it!

Bought a 100 yr old colonial house and found a old well. Went to the archives for the county and found out it was the first hand dug well in the area which would make sense since it is just outside the old carriage house. Your video is very helpful with the pump itself. Thank you

Well, I clicked on this just because I find the subject interesting. Currently, I have a motorized pump setup from a previous owner that seems to be either dried up or the screen down there is clogged. I ttried to pull the pipe using a come a long and rail road ties for an A frame but it didn’t budge. Only the come a longe handle bent so I left it. I’d like to get it going again so now I have the incentive to pick a new spot now that I’m here with great info on the subject. I’m going to install a well after the current freeze simply because everything covered here is so true, easy to follow and understand. For anyone reading, please know this information can’t be found in a simple search and can be applied to many aspects. Please also know, the wealth of information here is worth saving. So save the video, write it down, record it, do whatever you can do to keep it so you can refer to it. Thank you so much for posting. May God Bless.

You are the best love from 🇨🇦❤️🛎

I grew up with these type of pumps and you just gave the best explanation of the complete operation of how these pumps work . I like the closing valve .

This video is the most comprehensive explanation of a point well installation I have ever seen. Answered all my questions and more. Excellent job. Keep making your videos. You are a natural teacher. Thank you!

Drove about 3 of these when I lived in Michigan! The guy who recommended not adding pipe dope to the first few threads!? He’s right! This is a damn good video!

New subscriber, because this is one of the BEST videos I've ever seen on KZfaq. I'm a university professor, but you're a better teacher than I will ever be.

Your content is wonderfully complete and informative, great productions Dave!

The old one was made in Rockford,IL. I was born and raised there and I never knew that we manufactured hand pumps back in the day. That's super cool!

Great job explaining this procedure. The ball valve enhancement was a great suggestion.

Man I’m so glad I found your channel, and this video. We’ve been talking about doing a hand pump well for years, but never really knew how to get started. We have an old pump house that has a hand pump from the early 1900s, and I’ve always wanted to try to restore it but again… never really knew how. Now I do. Keep making great content man, this is probably some of the best videos on KZfaq. Glad there are guys like you out there, doing this kind of stuff and then teaching the rest of us how we can too.

Top-notch editing! All knowledge, No BS. Well done.

We're digging out an old well and I think we're going to use this exact setup. I'm glad you mentioned the smooth bore being perhaps the biggest difference between American made and those overseas. The ball valve is genius and so is washing out the pipes before putting them in the ground.

Your videos are so well done and informative. Thanks much for the extensive work you put into making them.

Thank you for producing this video! This is one of the best videos I’ve ever seen on youtube!!! You were informative, direct, to the point, explained everything really “well” and made it easy to understand for someone like me who is not very mechanical. I wish more content producers were able and willing to make videos like you!

One good reason to drive a 2" stand of pipe is that the larger inside diameter gives you room to run a liner sleeve inside if your 2" pipe develops a leak over time. Let's say you drive a well with 2" diameter pipe, and over 10 years, the screen in your drive point wears out and you get sand/silt in the bottom. You can run inside with a 1" pipe stand and jet out the sand. Then you can run a liner inside and re-complete your well with a smaller I.D.

On the ball valve when you drain it for freezing. Leave the valve cracked half way as the “ball” WILL hold water freeze and break!!! I have replaced MANY!!! Great vid!!!

Dave, A+ on the instructional. Clear, concise, and to the point. My biggest pet peeve with YT creators is the unnecessary blathering of unnecessary information. You sir, are the epitome of what creators should aspire to. You got my subscription and looking forward to exploring your channel further.

Another tip - to keep any "junk" off the pump when not in use, the 10 quart Behrens #1210 hot dipped galvanized bucket works like a charm. Tip it upside down and it fits over the pump like a glove. The wire handle fits securely under the pump handle, furry woodland creatures can't seem figure that out and strong winds will not blow it off.

An old timer plumber told me that if I wanted to have 100% no leak fittings, was to use Teflon Tape AND Pipe Dope, so that's what I do from now on. Never had a leak ever after that. Great video Dave !!

You can buy a 1-1/4" brass one way check valve and install under the pump (before or after your manual valve) This keeps prime without the need to operate the manual valve each time. (The check valve is also available at menards, same location/isle as the well drive couplings.) When I did my well a few years ago I also installed a "T" under the valves. The T also has a check valve and shutoff valve which is then plumbed to a shallow well jet pump. On demand water just like a normal well.

I just re-watched this video Dave. Your attention to detail and tips to do it right the first time are invaluable man. Good stuff!

This is the benchmark of any how to videos. Amazing job and thank you

Here in Texas, Tractor Supply also sales everything needed and same brand.

Couple of tips I have for you. Your drive coupling the one your going to replace , always keep it tight or it will split when driving. A nice size engine flywheel welded to an axle shaft makes a good driver. A person on each side lifting and dropping the flywheel makes good work. I have pulled new wells with a log and a piece of chain and a large block. Lay down the block close to the well pipe to set the log on, adjust to get good leverage. Hook the chain around the end of the log close to well pipe. Have one person lift the end of the log opposite of the well pipe. Wrap the chain two wraps around well pipe the push down on the log. Pipe will lift out of the ground. Keep repeating sliding the chain down on the well pipe each time. I hope this method makes sense to you. Thanks for your videos. ATB

Thank you both for all your lessons, I really enjoyed them and learned a lot!❤️

Pipe--DOPE! I installed a well by watching your video, here in the UP, today. 3/16/24

Wow, Dave, this is an awesome video. I am probably never going to have to install a pump, but this is some thing I’m sharing for everyone to be able to see and to pass along super awesome.☮️❤️

One of the best videos I have ever seen. You should be a teacher or a instructor. You were very thorough and I give an A+ for your efforts! Thank you so much!

I watched the episode of The Last Alaskans where Tyler Selden and his brother put one in his cabin so he and Ashely didn't have to haul water anymore. Pretty cool thing to do. Very informative video Dave.

That is exactly the info I needed to know in order to replace the leathers and make an old handpump workable again. Thank you!

Whipple is a great communicator! Nice job!

The fitting you had in your right hand is actually what it called black iron which is a malleable iron, not recommended for drinking water and has a lacquer coating that helps prevent it from rusting for a short time, typically black iron is used for hydronic heating. The one is your left looks like stainless steel. Stainless steel is used is a wide variety of applications and is food safe. For your pipe dope I would recommend teflon tepe+leak lock. (leak lock comes in a bright blue container) Really good stuff imo and is potable water safe.

I'm driving one right now after watching your other video like 20 times. Using a t-post driver, the red driving cap didn't quite fit, so I had to grind the big round ring down a little and we were in business. Way slower, but we're at 13 feet and think we have hit water. Great video, really alleviated my anxiety about this project. Thanks!!

Hello there, through all the thousands of the messages i want to thank you for the easy information and for the video to make viewers like me to understand how to make a well around the house. One of the best tutorial i got. May God bless you and the family

We have a high water level in my area. We all ready have a pump but if, and when the grid goes down, we may need this. I have an old well pump...I think it is in fine shape. But, I will have it checked by the man who cleaned my well. You created an AWESOME video, and I have been concerned about the water in my prepping plan. My husband is not on board, so it is frustrating as my children are not in the immediate vicinity, and I am IT in terms of the research, gathering, planning and close to freaking outing LOL. Thank you for your help. Note...when my best friend got divorced, she, and the one she called on, me, to help her replace a headlight, etc. She called me one day, and I went over. She had the pipes of the sink apart, as she had dropped an earring in there. Now, she couldn't get it back together. I said, "We can probably do this, but when Jerry, (My husband) does this, he uses this white plumber's tape". We did get the pipes together, and I seriously mistakenly got that tape the right direction. Voila...No leaks. My husband always had to leave one leak.I was so ready to get a Plumbers license LOL.

I think that the no pipe dope on the 1st 2 threads tip is a great tip. For all applications, like hydraulics, air, or gas. Even for Nitrogen gas used for laser cutting. This whole video is full of great tips.

You, sir, are thorough, clear, and well organized. You are an exceptional teacher. Thank you!

Man I learned something new from you every time I watch a video and you are a pretty damn good teacher to ! Hands-On , explanatory , simple terms , opens up a device in lets us see its inner workings . Great stuff man , love it !

Dude.. well done... pun intended. Seriously though, super awesome explanations and advice. I thank you for your time and efforts!

Great video! Thx! Best way to pull stubborn pipe well pipe is to use a heavy duty hydraulic car floor jack (2 ton or so) or just a regular hydraulic jack, wrap a chain around top collar of pipe, and the other on the end of the jack and jack it upward. You can use wood or the like as a base for the jack so it won't sink into the ground. Usually once you get the pipe moving, it gets easier and you can just keep cinching the chain down the pipe as it rises. 😉👍

You sir are an excellent communicator! Thank you!

Best how-to video on this topic, EVER. Thanks!

I have worked with these for a few years. Your explanation was fantastic. I like your style and the way you addressed those areas you were not comfortable discussing. In my area, the ground water is quite hard which requires replacement of the well point every so often. I have 2 points: one in the ground and one waiting. When I must replace, I pull the pipes out, swap the point and reinstall. I take the one just received and treat it with a bath of CLR rust remover inside a section of pvc pipe I keep on hand for just that job. This dissolves all the growths off the silt screen and reconditions the point for return to service [after a good cleansing].

I pulled about 20' of 2'' well pipe years back at an old ranch on the lake. The well was inside the house in the master bath closet with 8' ceilings. So I built a 4 by 4'' frame to sit above and center of my pipe but small enough to still fit in the closet ( Man it was tight ) I fabricated a goose neck out of 1 3/4'' pipe 6'' stock threaded on both ends and put caps on both ends with threaded wholes in the center of the caps. Cut that pipe in half at a diagonal went and got some all thread a few nuts and and a hook thingamachig and you get the gist on the goose neck. I then fastened a come along to the header of the pull frame and come along we went (Upward that is). I took this approach because I couldn't get this old pipe to budge just having about a foot of it above the ground. Man that goose neck worked like a charm. Here's your sign : ) Love your videos and stories. Keep them coming.

Love your straight forward videos! No nonsense, tell me what I need to know. Love it thanks for the content man!!

The best explanation of installation I have seen yet. Thank you!

Fence post drivers are pretty commonly available products. They don’t generally weigh 90lbs, but that seems like a reasonable modification that can be added. I haven’t tried it, just a thought.

That was an excellent description of how to drive a well. I use to help my father drive wells in the 50’s in Arkansas. He did it the same way. He made his own driver. He took a 40” piece of 6” pipe with a driving cap and then poured about 75 lbs. babbitt in the pipe. This would give you a longer stroke when driving the pipe.

Great video!!! I love how detailed you are.

Outstanding job Dave. One of the best common sense & thoroughly explained videos I’ve ever seen. I’m not in need of a well pump, just wanted to see the video for my own personal knowledge. But dang if you don’t have me wanting to install a well pump on my property lol. Thanks for a great video Dave! Charley in VA

Great video! I have to watch again! Need to write parts list and create a tip list. I am a woman homesteader and I can't thank you enough for this video!

We did this at our camp. I'm also in the U.P. On the home-made driver, there use to be fence post drivers sold at TSC, Menards, etc. that are similar. Even a larger piece of steel pipe (1 1/2' to 2' long) with a chunk of iron welded on the top works. They're sold as metal fence post drivers.

Hey Hollywood...that is one of the best hand pump well vids to date. Thanks so much. With Bi den, I mean, rolling blackouts...this is a great idea.

Really appreciate the detail in your video. Especially about avoiding contaminants in/on the pipe. And the convenience of the ball valve!

There is another way of driving the pipe down: in the hole you dug, add a bucket of water first, then you may join two 5 feet pipes to the driving point, and then you can simply raise the pipes up and the drop them down. With the water in the hole, the weight of the pipes can drive themselves down into the ground. You can add water into the pipe as well so the water can get to the driving tip position. This way, you do not need to use hammer or the home made driving weight.

If possible wash the insides of the pipe sections to get the oil off from production. Just like Dave and Brook found out it takes awhile to get that oil out of the water. I learned that from installing steel pipe on my water heater. Tastes nasty. Thanks Dave. Oops, I finished the video and see Dave addressed that.

Hi Mate, thank you so much. Finally someone who knows what he is talking about and also takes his time to really explain every detail. Much appreciated

Thanks for sharing your experience with this kind of pump.

Thank you! very, very, detailed, I usually have to watch 10 to 15 videos to get all info, but you answered all. God bless!

Great video, It is not usual for anyone to talk on a point such as this and remain interesting. Your plan is right on the money and steps understandable. The extra tips about the joint compound, and cleaning out the pipes is on the one, because I would not have known or thought about that until after I installed the pipes and pump . Those are the things that will make a big difference with the taste of the water which are very important to me when I drink the water. I have to say again, you made a nice instructional video and it shows. So many tubers are now concentrating on fluff, instead of strong, interesting, and thought out content. Nice job! Now I can install my well and pump like a pro.

I just came upon your video and I learned everything to be comfortable to set up a well pump.

Of all the tutorials I have EVER seen, this guy is the best instructor I've watched! Man, you should do instructional videos every day!! You are great at what you do. Thank you!

Very good description. Step by step. I've never done this but I feel with you experience, I too could have free water. Thanks Dave

Back when I was a kid we drove a well for the cottage we were building. As soon as you gave that taste test I could remember how that first water tasted out of our newly driven well. It lasted for about a month. Also it seems like the older pitcher pumps had a bit longer stroke on them. Thanks for taking that pump apart and showing how they work especially with the leathers. Great visual aid. Hope you and your family have an excellent Fall season.

First vid on this topic that actually tells you what exactly to get. Thanks

Kits like this are great! We drove one about 15 feet in northern Wisconsin....has been working like a charm for years

Used to have a hand pump at my grandparents cabin we kids love to get water and on the way back with the pail we would twirl the pail to see if water would stay in the pail. Good memories. Thanks very informative. 😊🇺🇸

Thank you for sharing. Witching with welding rod helps find water. Also looking for a few wide leaf plants in a area, is a good indication there is activity of water.

I love these videos. They make me smile as I live in AZ and water is 1000+ feet down. I remember the days when I was in NY when the water was at the surface.

Thank you for the great advice, I was born on a farm in upper MN, but never knew you could DIY well. You rock bro! Blessings from and old veteran:)

If your leathers are dry, you can use up that gallon of prime water without getting your pump primed unless you take steps to conserve the water. When you are priming, you should raise the pump handle all the way before pouring in water. Then only push the handle down an inch or so while you are pumping. You can make short strokes up and down with the pump handle near the top end of it's travel and keep your prime water in the pump. If you push the handle all the way down, you empty the water above the plunger out of the pump. I listen for the sound of a bubble coming through the water in the pump each time I raise the pump handle that inch of travel. That's air leaving the column. When the bubbling stops and the pumping is suddenly harder, you're done. Raise the handle all the way to the limit and you might lose prime again though. Hopefully, your leathers will be swollen enough by then to seal and pump out the air.

WOW. I watch a lot of youtube videos on everything from woodworking, to auto repair, to homesteading, and this is the best edited, most clear, most complete video I've ever watched. Great job!! Subscribed.