Thanks from the UK. I also now know why my apartment gets hotter when the sun goes down 👍

Thanks for the video on installing a portable AC vent into a casement video. I had to watch several videos to give me some ideas of how to tackle the problem the way I wanted to. Ultimately, I just went with a piece of chloroplast that I cut to fit into the rails of my bug screen, and then used some weather stripping to keep it tight and leak proof. I then just cut it to line up with where the vent opening is on the kit that came with the AC to latch it into the window. It works really good and I don't notice any more heat coming in through that vs. the normal window. As for the AC struggling to get much colder than a few degrees, I wouldn't think it is the walls that are causing the AC to struggle because brick actually provides an excellent thermal barrier. There are two likely culprits here instead: SACC rating and single vs. dual hose exhaust. The first being that your unit is not of sufficient BTU size for your space. Many manufacturers got away with listing the rated capacity in the best case scenario for years, but now there is the Seasonally Adjusted Cooling Capacity (SACC). This accounts for losses in efficiency such as heat radiating off of the pipe etc. So, your AC my actually have a SACC rating far too low for the room. Secondly, your unit is a single hose unit, which draws air in from the room to blow over the condenser and then out the tube you ran to your window. This creates a negative pressure in your house, drawing hot air from outside back in through whatever openings it can find, working against the unit. That is also something SACC takes into account, and you will notice some units listing 14,000 BTU with a SACC rating of a measly 7,000 BTU. This would likely indicate that the unit draws far too much air from the room to cool itself, sucking in much more hot air from the outside. A double hose unit draws air from outside to cool the condenser, and then blows that now hotter air back outside again. Beware though, there are some horribly inefficient dual hose designs as well! As such, the recommendation is to buy a unit with the SACC rating you need to cool the space. Just keep in mind that even if a single hose unit has the SACC BTU rating for your space, it will make other areas in your house hotter as hot air will be drawn into them and not actively cooled by the AC. Regardless, great video and thanks for the help!

Great video! Thanks for showing us your idea!

I came onto youtube just to see how others had done this tonight and really love your solution. I just got myself a portable air conditioner, I get my office lowered by 3 - 4 degrees in a 18 cubic meter room witha very similar set of windows to yours that opens outwards, I had some 12mm ply lying around that I cut to size to fit across all the windows in the bay. I secured it with a few suction pads that I could press onto the two surrounding windows. Your solution is really neat and well thought through, I may modify mine to allow at least some light in the window, the latches are a great idea, having the mosquito net rails sure was handy!

That’s genius!

This was a great idea but the fatal flaw was using particle board. This will quickly deteriorate when it gets wet. Try using anything else that isn't damaged by moisture. Plywood that has been painted/prepared to withstand the moisture and look better. 1" pink solid insulation sheets would also be ideal, less expensive and easier to work with. I would also add some foam weatherstripping to help seal the edges against the window frame.

I made one out of lexan because the window was bigger and using wood would've made the room too dark. I also opted to buy the split unit. It didn't make sense to exhaust the room air. It would be throwing the baby out with the bath water sort of thing! 10 Years on, and still going every summer. Since you installed your board inside, you should install a sort of awning/rain gutter for the bottom of the outside, so that when the rain hits the windows sideways, water doesn't slide down the board and into the window ledge. That way, when the rain hits the board and comes down, it will hit the awning/rain gutter at the bottom, and is diverted outside. I used construction tape from the outside to seal the bottom. At the end of the season, the tape is ripped out and thrown away.

Brilliant

ik ga het proberen dank je wel 👌🏻👍🏻

Thanks so much for this video . From where did get these latches ?

Hey, love your idea but i have a question How thick is your board you used? 1/8th inch ,1/4th inch?

downside where i live windows open inwards - only think i can find is them thin plastic window seals that rip after a few days using - shame my flat didnt have built in air con as portable air on only way to cool down but so much hot air wasted as half comes back in the window

Where did you get the latches? I can’t find them anywhere. Thank you!!

What counts as a heatwave in the Netherlands?

Hi. Where did you buy the latch? I can't find it online - nor on English or Danish websites.

very interesting video, i dont have a 3d printer but might ask somebody to print the handles for me, im dreading summer XD

Your video totally fails as you use a component nobody can buy. The latches. A waste of your time and ours. Very disappointing