Hi folks, in this video we are going to learn how to do advanced troubleshooting on your Power Grader. If you haven’t yet, be sure to watch our Basic Troubleshooting video and follow the instructions with it before proceeding with the troubleshooting steps in this video or you could misdiagnose why your machine is not functioning properly. In order to perform the troubleshooting we are going to cover in this video, you are going to need either a test light or a voltage meter. If you don’t have either of these, a test light can be purchased from most any hardware store usually for less than $10.
With a new test light or voltage meter, you may need to use a file to sharpen the probes to make it easier to probe into a wire. It is best to use a pair of needle nose pliers to hold the wire you are trying to probe into in case the probe slips off the wire.
As we go through the electrical troubleshooting, if at some point you perform one of the steps and you do not get a light on your test light or do not show voltage on your meter, make sure your tool is making a good connection and try the step again. If you still do not show voltage, the component between the last two points checked will be the cause of your Power Grader not functioning properly.
The first step in testing the Power Grader electrical system is to check your negative wire. To do this, connect the alligator clip on your test light to the positive terminal on your battery. If using a voltage meter, you will want to contact the negative probe to the positive terminal on the battery. With your positive probe or test light, probe into the negative wire between the 4-pin connector and the receiver. This wire will either be blue or black depending on the year of your machine. It will be directly next to the red wire and straight across the 4-pin connector from the green wire coming from your battery. If you do not show voltage, either you do not have a good connection with your tool or there is a connection problem with your 4-pin connector.
If you did show voltage in the previous step, we can now test the positive circuit. Connect the alligator clip on your test light to the negative terminal on your battery and leave it connected throughout the following steps. If using a voltage meter, you will want to contact the negative probe to the negative terminal on the battery for the following steps.
With your positive probe or test light, probe into the red wire between the fuse and the 4-pin connector. If you do not show voltage, either you do not have a good connection with your tool or there is a connection problem with your fuse or fuse holder.
If you did show voltage in the previous step, test the red wire between your 4-pin connector and your receiver. If you do not have voltage here, you are not getting a connection across your 4-pin connector.
Next we will test the white wire leading from the receiver to the 4-pin connector. To test this wire, probe it with your tool as you did in the previous steps except this time we are also going to depress each of the buttons on your transmitter. Depressing one of the buttons should send voltage through this wire. If you do not get voltage with either button depressed, your transmitter and receiver will need to be replaced.
You can now repeat this procedure with the last wire coming out of the receiver that we have not tested. This wire should be either blue or black depending on the year of your machine and should be directly next to the white wire in the 4-pin connector.
If you showed voltage in the previous two steps, you know your transmitter and receiver are functioning properly. We will now test the brown and blue wires between the 4-pin connector and the actuator by probing each wire individually and depressing the buttons on the transmitter. If you do not have voltage here, you are not getting connection across your 4-pin connector. If you do show voltage here, we know your actuator is defective because it is the last component in the assembly.
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