how did it turn out ? Did you the ESC in his links ? any issues with parts ? Thanks

To use a LVC board, on the ESC diagram use a bigger terminal strip or a 1 in/ 3 out snap connection with a positive and negative going to the LVC board and then the relay portion will go before the ESC. On the LVC diagram, just think of the PWM as the ESC and you will be good to go! For the 3 speed shifter, just follow the wire from the stock pedal that goes to the shifter and replace it. FYI, you will need 2 relays (36 volt/ 40 amp) for your setup

Overall, I would say there’s no disadvantage to using the 24v Kobalt over a 6s lipo. I’ll only use lipo if it’s a drag race and I know they won’t be using the car for more than a few seconds. I’d never would want to see a lipo battery burst into flames when it’s under a kids seat

@@DadHacks I do have that fear. Fortunately her car has a frunk, so I’m going to be relocating the battery so that it’s further away

I'm looking at your wiring diagram a little more and think I'm figuring it out.... so does the relay basically just reverse the polarity to the motor to act as the "brake"? And that's why with 2 motors you would need 2 relays? I would think you could run 2 sets of wires out of the 1 relay to each motor, but that would probably draw too much current for 1 relay to handle?

1a) you can use any normal 24-volt, 5-pin relay. You are correct, the relay is used for the brake system. I would almost suggest just skipping the brake system on the “trial” run because the GraveDigger is so heavy, it will stop on its own pretty quickly. 1b) if you want to skip the brake, then in the diagram ignore the black wires running to the relay and the red wire running to the brake pedal. Then take the blue wire from the ESC and place it in the shifter, where the 30a red wire would have gone. (You can always go back and add the brake setup if the car rolls too much for your liking). 2) the 2nd relay was only needed if you are using a power tool battery and you are also using a Low Voltage Cutoff board. You are using SLA batteries, so no need for an additional relay. 3) The setup in the video was for a dual motor, low speed/high speed scenario like yours. In your stock setup, power from from the battery to the pedal, pedal to the shifter and then shifter to the motor. Well, with the ESC we aren’t using the stock pedal as an on/off switch, so we need to replace the positive wire that goes to the shifter. It’s kinda complicated from the 30,000 foot view but when you start assembling the setup, it will make more sense

@DadHacks awesome thanks for the info. I think I'm going to do the brake, not so much because it's needed, but because my 3yo is an absolute car nut and will love having a "real" car with an accelerator and brake pedal lol. I'm a mechanic, so I don't mind tackling the wiring and everything, it's just the electronics themselves that are new to me. The information your giving me is making it a lot more clear though, especially after looking at the wiring diagram a little closer. So basically when the relay is in its normally closed position its sending power from the ESC to the motors via the shifter. Where im getting a little lost is when the relay is opened (via a positive signal from the brake pedal). Looking at the diagram you are now connecting pin 30 (which was the power feed to the motors) to pin 87 which goes through the resistor and basically loops the positive and negative leads of the motor... is that the goal? On a side note, I replaced the factory sound and lights on his grave digger with custom headlights and custom soundboard. The soundboard has programmable pins triggered by ground received from simple switches. I rigged it up so one of the pins plays the sound of a real monster truck accelerating. To achieve this, I took the 24V positive signal coming out of the factory gas pedal and used it to switch a 24V relay that sends a ground signal to the soundboard. With this new ESC setup I'll have to change this because I'll know longer be getting a full 24V out of the pedal. Do you happen to know the lowest voltage the variable pedal will output? I'm not sure at one point a 24V relay will no longer open... I can't really swap it out for a 12V relay, because then at full throttle it'll be too much power. I can always rig up something else though.

No this is a different ESC. This one does not have R/C capability

They make 5mm pinion gears, you just have to search hobby websites. But depending on the gearbox, it could be easy (Power Wheels brand) or hard (most other brands) to mount the 775 motor. You could get a 550 motor with more torque, like a 27t (turn) motor.

Yes it would work, you would just have to do a little rewiring. The worst case scenario is that you would lose 2WD and it would be permanent 4WD. I just haven’t seen the setup on those to know for sure.

I’m running 550s. But for 775 motors, they are typically 300 watts so you might be fine. Try to see if you can find the wattage of your motors just to be safe

Buy a Power Wheels shifter like the one in this link. amzn.to/4el97G3 and then search for Power Wheels wiring diagram. Just know, rewiring it is a pain

Yes, you can add a Titan RC motor, but it should be at least 21 turn to 27 turn. You could do a 12 turn for more speed, but you’re at risk of breaking the gearbox. I have a few more video idea concepts that I’m working on for the summer

@@DadHacks Thanks for the reply, I just came back to this video, and started ordering the shown ESC. But then i realised you are suggesting a 12v ESC for using 18v batteries, how does that work? wont it burn out over time? :) Also, with the 12v ESC, Ryobi 18v battery, speed pedal and 2x traxxas motors. Do i even need the original 12v control board on the car? or can i just throw that part out?

I would toss the control board, this means you will lose sounds (if the car has any). But as for the 12 volt ESC, the reason why you can’t use a 24 volt ESC is because the minimum voltage needed to power on the 24v ESC is around 22 volts, and an 18 volt battery when fully charges is around 21.5 volts, so it wouldn’t never power on the ESC. Look for a 12 volt ESC rated for at least 500 watts, with 800 watts being preferable.

What about using a handle bar throttle? Either like the one in the video or one like this a.co/d/7wbuMVc

Answer for #1) you won’t technically need low gear anymore, but low gear can’t be used as an on/off switch either. If you want an on/off, you can wire a 2 pin on/off switch into the “power locks” connection on the ESC. Otherwise you will need to make a jumper connection or tie those connections together so the ESC thinks it switched into the “on” position. Answer #2) the relay shouldn’t be causing it to run slower

Can you check the battery’s fuse to see if it popped? You’ll have to remove the cover to access it

@DadHacks fuse is ok. I have a lot of relays for various things, and everything still has power. I have 26V into the ESC, and 26V out of the ESC to the shifter/motors. I have 4.9V from the ESC to the variable throttle pedal, and when pressed, I have 4V coming back into the ESC. What I no longer have is ground coming out of the ESC when the throttle is pressed.

@KevinCiccone it definitely sounds like the ESC. But I would just double check that the 3 wires from the variable speed pedal are still connected. The ML Toys 775 motors shouldn’t pull more than 600 watts, so it’s surprising a 1000w unit went bad

@DadHacks yeah I checked the throttle pedal. It has the typical red/black/green. I have good power and ground on red and black, and when I press the pedal wide open I get 4V on green. I'm fairly sure it's the ESC, I'm just wondering what the cause of the failure was because I don't want to throw another unit at it and have that fail too.

The 12 AWG wire from the battery adapter is fine, only 1 ESC is needed and then you can split the “power out to motor” connection from the ESC to run to the front and back. Yes, the 24v ESC needs a minimum voltage amount of 20 to 21 volts, which is why you will want a 12v ESC if you are using a 18v or 20v battery

@@DadHacksDo you have an email address you would be okay with sharing? You could delete the reply after I shoot you over a quick email. It’s just a couple pictures and a question regarding wiring.

@@DadHacksDo they make an ESC that is 12v and can handle 4x350w motors? I can’t find anything that is 12v and even close to the 1500w that I would need.

Andy Mark 775 redline motors are great. The only thing is that you will need to buy a separate pinion gear, and that depends on what type of car you have www.andymark.com/products/andymark-775-redline-motor-1?Pinion=No%20Pinion%20(am-3775a)&quantity=1

@@DadHacks will I have to buy a new gear or an upgraded one needed? And while I have your attention, 24v relay will work fine if I'm going to run a 20v battery, correct? Also why do you need a relay? Just wondering

@Nick M if you are just running 20v, you can keep the stock 550 motor. Otherwise if you upgrade to the 775, you can’t reuse the pinion gear. The 24v relay is used as part of the braking system. (Yes, use the 24v relay for your 20v battery)

@@DadHacks thanks for your responses! I appreciate the input! I did what your other video told me not to do initially (before I saw the video) and just plugged in the 20v battery. I got lucky and only popped a capacitor. I'm definitely gonna do the hook up like you showed though. One last question, did you replace the first gear in the gear box with a metal gear when you installed the 775? If not, did it last and not strip the plastic gear?

@@nickm7394 no need to replace the first gear with a metal gear. Those usually break due to the harsh starting and stopping, the ESC eliminates that. If you need help figuring out the size of the pinion gear, just tell me what ride you have (brand and model) and I’ll see if I can help.

On the wiring diagram, the red wire will just run from the battery to the ESC, no wire to the brake pedal (because there won’t be one). You won’t be a relay either. The blue wire from the ESC will now run directly to the shifter, where the red wire that came from the “30” relay wire used to go.

Will having a brake pedal run the gears? Or does the break pedal slow down to a stop? Instead of an instant stop like I'm assuming

The brake pedal will be more of a soft stop. In a normal Power Wheels, it’s either 100% Power or 100% brakes. With the ESC, when you let off the pedal, the car will roll on it own to reduce speed and then when you hit the brake, it’s easier on the gears because it’s not trying to stop at full speed.

I’m thinking that the pedal isn’t being pressed down all the way, which is limiting the voltage (and therefore limiting the speed). Are you running the ESC on the Ryobi 18 volt?

@@DadHacks Yes. I’ve got the 18v ryobi and I tested the pedal. It seems to be going the full reach. I’m wondering if I did the relay wrong. I had a pile of wires and no real idea for how to put them all together. I noticed a black box that looked just like the relays I bought but it said 12v on it so I swapped it with the new 24v relay. That was probably wrong I’m guessing.

@@pricnat if the car is working, then the relay is probably correct. Do you have a voltage meter to test how much voltage is leaving the ESC via the yellow and blue wires? Also, since the Brute Force is an ATV, you may want to consider a twist throttle like a real ATV. I’m not sure if this one will fit your handle bar, but if it does, it’s the same plug as the variable speed pedal. a.co/d/8LSG24u

@@DadHacks thanks for the advice. I’ll check the voltage after I google how to use the voltage meter that I bought.

@@DadHacks and thanks for your videos and comments on everyone’s questions. I’ve learned so much from you. I’m always checking back to see if you’ve done a new power wheels video. And just in case you’re taking requests🤞🏻, I’d love to see a video of the step by step wiring install because it turns out, I have no idea how to read and apply the wiring diagram. And then after that one, let’s do a 4x4 conversion. And then after that, can we convert a rear PW axel into a trailer with motors that can be hooked up to a PW truck or jeep? Just spit balling here…

Is this for the ESC setup? If so, check the pedal’s 3 connections and make sure the colors match up, if not try switching them around

@@DadHacks the pedal is red/black/green, the ESC is red/black/blue. Connection is red/red, black/black, green/blue

To troubleshoot, unplug all three pedal wires and see if it still runs. If not, switch around the pedal wires to see if anything changes

@@DadHacks not sure what I did, but now I don’t have any power to the motors. My meter seems to be showing continuity through the whole circuit, and my battery is showing full voltage, but the motors aren’t running at all

Is the “power locks” (or maybe someone similar to that phrasing) pin connected. That basically an on/off connection, and the ESC won’t work unless that’s a closed circuit. The other thing is, what battery voltage are you using and what’s the ESC voltage rated for?

Yes sir, it’s the same setup as a MX 350, except the dirt bike has a larger motor (I think it’s 500 watts). The Razor stuff uses the same ESC, but a thumb throttle instead of pedal throttle, but same concept. If you aren’t set on gas powered, you could upgrade the motor on the mini bike and get like a 48 volt battery and let it rip.