@@RanjitSingh-ob4ig the car battery shouldn’t have caused any issue. If there’s a circuit board, start off replacing that and get a regular SLA replacement battery

Is the horn powered by the car’s battery or check to see if it runs off AA (or AAA) batteries… if its a car with a parent remote control, there’s a good chance the control board went bad in the car. The other thing it could be is that the on/off switch went bad

No issues with the ESC. One thing to consider is how much the actuator will be used and if it’s going to be used on grass vs pavement. If it’s constantly moving in and out, it will burn out. And using it on grass will put more pressure on it than on pavement, which is easier to push the wheels

@@DadHacks going to go a the heavy duty one. Pavement only. We got other power wheels to go off road with

@@DadHacks I also noticed your convo w another member. And the brand you used was the bottom trim actuator. I was thinking same brand but higher output because they are cheaper than the heavy duty one you shared the link to but I don’t want to just throw 100 bucks out the window to learn it didn’t last

Probably not. Look for an ESC that can handle 24 volts, sometimes the specs say it can handle a “6s battery”. You’ll also want one that can handle 50 amps

@@DadHacks gotcha. that gets more complicated. I was just thinking of running the esc based on a separate battery cell like the other vid you have and sticking with a higher Voltage battery to get more performance out of the 18V motors. But I am not sure if the Chinese esc units are designed to work with a 2.4ghz receiver ?

I’d go with a little more heavy duty actuator, which means the speed is actually a little slower. Something with specs similar to this: www.progressiveautomations.com/products/linear-actuator-with-potentiometer?variant=18277322555459

@@DadHacks ok thanks much And would you know the answer to this question Can I run the same brushed ESC in conjunction with 18V set up or 36V ? I want the car to be still remote operated. I got a 775 motor set up with a soft start, and brake module. I would like to operate off of one battery but if I have to have two batteries of different voltage so be it. You let me know if this is even feasible for my application. If no - then what needs to be done ? I am guessing , I am stuck with a 12V set up only ??? Thanks much - you are great

@@DadHackshow many max lbs is the one you put in your kid’s Audi? Just curious - I emailed the supplier and awaiting their answer. I need anything around 35lbs + . The more robust feedback actuators are too slow. Let me know thanks again!

@@user-vy4ko7ms3p the one I used was 100mm/ 22:1 gearing ratio that allows for a max force of 50 newtons.

@@DadHacks thanks for the info. 50 newtons equals roughly 12 lbs - thanks for the reference ! I also found another video where you recommended using buck step down converter - I think that is the last piece of equation for me. Going to have one for the ESC and the linear actuator as I am planning on running drill batteries of 36V combined. Thanks again

Couple questions, 1) does it have a control board (does it have a parent remote). 2) check the fuse, if there’s one, to see if it popped (should be near the battery). 3) it could be that the on/off switch is “dirty” and the connection can’t be made, replacing it could fix the issue

Overall, I would say there’s no disadvantage to using the 24v Kobalt over a 6s lipo. I’ll only use lipo if it’s a drag race and I know they won’t be using the car for more than a few seconds. I’d never would want to see a lipo battery burst into flames when it’s under a kids seat

@@DadHacks I do have that fear. Fortunately her car has a frunk, so I’m going to be relocating the battery so that it’s further away

Tough question because all rides are wired a little differently. If I had to give odds, 75% if there is power coming into the board but no power out, it’s going to get the control board, otherwise it could be the shifter switch or pedal the other 25% of the time.

Correct, sounds like it just needs a new gear shifter switch.

@@DadHacks I bought one so we’ll see if it works.

Sounds like a bad connection. Start by looking at the foot pedal and then look at the motor connections to make sure nothing fell off. If you can’t find the issue, then you’ll need to use a voltage multimeter to see where you are losing voltage.

What car brand do you have?

You’ll need one like this amzn.to/3yZKezj

Buy a Power Wheels shifter like the one in this link. amzn.to/4el97G3 and then search for Power Wheels wiring diagram. Just know, rewiring it is a pain

The low voltage control board can only handle 20 amps. The power wheels motor will draw more than that on grass or going up a hill, so that will fry the control board. A relay sends voltage to the board to power it without sending the full amount of amps.

Thanks for the reply! I wasn’t sure what to expect with it being an older video but i really appreciate the clarification! Sounds like not by-passing steps is the smart way to go.

Here’s a common control board for a 12 volt ride. Just make sure the steering control plug looks the same shape as on your stock board. amzn.to/3yP0rav

@DadHacks so my 2 white connectors, I have the longer one which is correct on all the ones I've seen but the smaller white prong connection, mine has 3 prongs instead of only 2

@DadHacks and my longer white connector has the 7-p 4 sided socket

@mrduckblind do you know if that smaller white connector with 3 pins is for the steering motor?

@@DadHacks yes it is for the steering one of the other connectors goes to the battery and the other connector goes to the driving motors that are located on the left and right wheels in the rear

If it’s not charging, either the batteries are dead or there isn’t a good connection to the batteries. My bet is that the batteries are dead, but it should be easy to replace

@@DadHacks Its only 1year old and here in canada during qinters it gets cold. Car was in garage and battery drained out. Is there any way I can boost it to bring it back to life? Thanks

@@prathammuradia1007 probably not. Just like a car battery, it needs to be kept charged during the winter

It’s a fun project, though the hardest part is the steering setup!

@@DadHacks is it your r8 still running strong ?

@@user-vy4ko7ms3p yup, still running strong!

Would you recommend the same actuator you have on your Audi or something faster for a bigger power wheels ( that’s what I got )

I’m not sure how your car is wired, but a couple of things could be going on. The on/off switch and the pedal could have melted in the “closed” circuit position, meaning electricity is always flowing. If the lights turn off, then just the pedal could have just melted in the closed position. In short, start my replacing your pedal.

Assuming this was the case and looking like it could be, i just don't understand it i guess, could the pedal still work normally and this is only affected when the on/off switch was pressed? I only ask this cause when the car is in netrual the car stops, and once you put it in high speed or low speed the car will only go once the pedal has been pressed and held.

The lights do turn on and off when the switch is pressed

Looks like it was the controller problem solved, cheers.

@alistairwall-js3cf awesome!

Could be a couple of issues. 1) remove by prying off the radio and check if all the connections are good. 2) the speaker could be bad, but there’s not an easy way to check that. Or 3) buy a replacement radio board (it should look like this one). amzn.to/3yAWBlf

@@DadHacks thanks I have looked for a replacement music board but can't seem to find one that will fit it the one you shared is way to big

It was the battery. I replaced with a brand new one and the car is zipping with my kid in kt

I’m assuming it doesn’t turn left or right when using the parent remote control, correct? Does it go forward with the remote?

@DadHacks yes, it goes forward and backwards just doesn't turn with the steering wheel or the remote

@AlternativeAccount288 sounds like the steering motor is bad or the connection on the control board isn’t secure

@DadHacks Where is the control board and do they sell a separate steering motor?

@AlternativeAccount288 here’s a separate gearbox for the steering motor. But before buying, check that you have voltage going to the steering motor, that way you know it’s the motor that’s the issue

After the 2 second delay, does the car “lock up” and stop immediately or does it roll to a stop

It stops abruptly… so lock up I think. Do you think the relay auto reset box bad?

It could be that the plunger on the pedal gets stuck and take a few seconds to get unstuck when pressure is released.

Thank you!! Will double check that!!!

Definitely sounds like the battery, especially if the battery is over 3 years old

@@DadHacks thank you for the quick response!

Thanks! It’s a 2015

Was it a 12 volt or 24 volt board? When using 18 or 20 volts, you’ll need to use a 24v board like this. amzn.to/4bPJc74 It’s possible you fried something on the board if it’s 12 volts.

12volt board, apologies, my comments are not saving.

I’m thinking that could be the issue. Try the 24v control board

I believe that’s a Kid Trax brand Bronco, which does not have a control board (which is a good thing), so it likely won’t be an issue going from 6v to 12v for the lights. It might be an issue for the radio, but double check to make sure the radio doesn’t run on AA batteries. But no, if the radio goes out, that’s not an issue for the motors, it will still run

Thanks! The blue connectors will likely have a hole that’s too small to fit a 12 AWG wire. It’s better to got either the yellow

Thank you for the reply. I've another question about the fuse (from a newbie lol). Why did you place one between the terminal block and the relay and not directly on the positive wire from the battery? I thought that it would be more secure next to the battery to avoid any fire risks? Or maybe do you suggest to place two in line fuses in the system (battery and relay/lcvd?)

@cyb3rFac3z I should have placed the fuse closer to the battery. You’re learning quick

Thus, if I've understand well, it's better to move the fuse closer to the battery and I have a regular wire between the relay and the lcvd?

@@cyb3rFac3z yes, move the fuse closer to the battery, before the split to the LVC board

Great to know!

Seem like the new motors pulled too many amps. Check to see if you have a fuse that blew, should be located near the battery. If it has a resetting thermal fuse, and not an automotive fuse, then the next likely issue is that the control board couldn’t handle the amps and it fried. You’d need a new control board

@@DadHacks Thank you for replying and thank you for the advice, i’ll let you know how i get on 👊🏻

If it won’t power on. It’s either a bad on/off switch connection or something on the board went bad

Correct

Inside the connection's one of the prongs isn't making connection. Take a flat head and bend it over so that when it is plugged in it will make connection.

Do you have a voltage multimeter? If so, check what the voltage is at the motor when you push down the pedal. Sounds like these’s a bad connection when you are losing voltage somewhere

@@DadHacks I ended up unplugging and plugging every connection and discovered the clear/white connection on the peddle was loose as hell. I wiggled and reconnected and got power to the wheels. For only 12V, this thing breaks traction very easily with my daughter driving

@@reptarthetrx2408 try searching “2 pin female spade connectors”. If it looks the same, order that as a replacement

Maury Povich voice: “and the lie detector test determined that was a lie.” You can 100% get replacement batteries

@DENISEB77 some times the remote have trouble pairing with a new board. But as long as the new board is the same model number as the old board, it should pair.

@DENISEB77 what color are the buttons on your current controller?

@@DadHacks so I just realized I bought the wrong item I have to reorder the correct part, so now that makes sense why it's not connecting lol..

How long have you had it? Sounds like a bad battery

Correct, it’s most likely the control board. Just make sure the connections are good. If they are, then it’s most likely the control board

Ya, the control board could be the issue or maybe the thermal fuse is bad, but that usually would only get tripped if you are going up steep hills

@@DadHacks yeah it's been sitting uncharged for a very long time and then when I decided to charge it sound, it didn't really work lights and sound came on but sounded like it started to stutter lol

@DENISEB77 it could also be the battery then as well. Both are cheap to change out

@@DadHacks so I checked the battery, the wires are glued to the battery, is it replaceable? Looks like it's some type of hot glue

@DENISEB77 just pull off the hot glue. Hopefully they just hot glued the connections, but someone’s the solder the connections. If they soldered the connection, you’ll need to get female spade connectors and make a new connection

Without a voltage multimeter to test where you are losing voltage, I would say the control board went bad.