Thank you, I love machine time. Many times its my own jobs...I love challenges such as this! I appreciate the kind words :)

Thanks Mike!

Appreciate it, thanks for stopping by the channel ~ Richard

Thanks RTK!!

And thank you for taking the time and effort to make these videos, I like your way of thinking!

YW! It takes 3 times as long to make something when filming it....then there is editing 😁

Thanks! Just keep it up your doing great!

Thanks Steve....yes, its a very interesting metal to work with

Very nice editing also, very easy to watch, I enjoyed it.

Same goes for your vids...I enjoy them. Everyone should visit Steve's channel! kzfaq.info/love/jrGHSAkAN0ac8aVejwPBvA

Thanks for the shout out MSFN, I will do the same. Your videos are A+

No problem Steve, you are under subscribed, you have great content....everyone who watches mine should watch yours...in my opinion 👍🏼

Thanks Peter :)

Thanks for Watching :)

I hear ya, and honestly I dont mind metric. The difficult part about it all is everything I own is in "inch/decimal", even the lathe and dials. If I had the money I would invest is some metric tooling for situations like this....doing the math all the time sucks :) ~ Richard

I feel you brother. I just got a few measuring items like the mics and indicators. Most of my stuff is inch as well. But the DRO's will all switch between both. Also, the actual conversion is 0.0393701, not .040. That little bit of error will add up on you quickly. If you are not careful that .0007 will cause your tolerance stack up to be out. If you're doing low tolerance work, like +/- .010" there's no problem. When you're doing +/- .001 work, you had better be converting using the actual 0.0393701.

I use online calculators for conversions, I dont trust myself to do them...LOL I would love to have a DRO but dont bring in enough work to pay for one....sure would be nice! Maybe one day....but not today! ☹️

why the US still uses Imperial measuring. I don´t know ... There are only about 5 countries left who still works with inches the rest of the world uses metric. I can´t find any reason why not using metrics. inches are oldfashioned. be modern use mm.

Great info, thanks Joe! This was the first time I ran into a metric mechanical drawing but the customer was gracious enough to convert the measurements to decimal for me...and resend the drawing versus me making hand written notes. I like a drawing and measurements I can quickly reference when at the lathe. Hope you enjoyed the vid....part 2 soon! :)

You can use google to translate the measurements. Just writing ".040 inch to mm" is good enough to get a result immediately.

Thanks!, I am always willing to learn new techniques and learn from others experience. I appreciate ya! :)

Hahah, your new haircut is precision....thats all I know! And for a great cause too! 👍🏼 Thanks friend! :)

Even better you came for a visit. How cool is that eh ?

He used so much "seat of the pant's" on this.... best we send him a new pair for his bare butt !!

But does he getter done? 😎

The "machinist's NEW clothes" (look Ma he's bare assed nekid !!)

Thanks, I was getting a .002 difference between what the dial said vs what the mitutoyo indicator said over a .01575 distance during all my preliminary set up....so decided to trust the indicator rather than my Atlas Lathe dials...just trying to put out a quality job 😊

Yeah, the dial indicators are often inaccurate due to backlash. Wear and tear on the threaded rod that moves the carriage is unavoidable. You can fix it if you want to disassemble your lathe, by upgrading the leadscrews to be ball-screws or whatever they're called, essentially they push on the rod with two leadscrews pushing against eachother, making sure they firmly contact the threaded rod with no backlash. This isn't a permanent solution unless your threaded rod and leadscrews are high quality and hardened, as you'd just wear the threads out faster, to the point where you'll break the thread. Any debris that gets stuck in the thread is going to ruin the precision. That's why it's too much bother to upgrade the lathe dial, and just rely on external dial indicators. That way there's no calculative errors from gears and threads. Even if you upgrade the leadscrew/threaded rod, you might run into problems where the thread pitch is slightly off to the dial's calibration, meaning every full turn will introduce a small error. This is why CNC machines avoid gears and just go for linear motors rather than leadscrews. That way an electric pulse moves the machine exactly (example) 0.01mm, as there's no gears or mechanical assemblies, making CNC's accurate, and that's why the manual lathes are somewhat obsolete.

No need to disassemble my entire lathe to complete this job....just ordered a 500k VMC from Haas :)

Oooooo, fancy! I can't wait to see you play around with it. I wasn't asking you to disassemble, just giving you insight as to what one would do to get rid of the backlash.

:)

No additional parallels will be used, or soft jaws....you will have to wait for part 2 :)

Can't wait. Wish I lived nearby to watch it live :P

:)

I melt and cast metal on this channel, I saved as much clean brass as I could. The chip pan always has steel floating around which contaminates chips :-(

Thanks, some like detail...others...not so much :-/

Good suggestion on soft jaws for the calipers but wonder how accurately the tape is made. I dont have digitals so cant zero anything...compression of tape may be an issue ? The piece will be turned down to 1.96x diameter later in the build....its currently 2.503 so using soft jaws now isnt needed. Wait for part 2...you will see...I dont use soft jaws then either :)

You can always just slap tape on the calipers, measure the width you get, squish em a few times on random items, see if it's repeatable or not. It isn't a hard job, it's a 1 minute job at most ;) If you don't have digitals, don't bother, they are one decimal point less accurate than your eye. If you can measure 0.01mm (0.0004 inch) with your caliper, so can the digital ones. But the vernier scale lets you eyeball an extra decimal down to 0.001mm (0.00393701 thou), while the digital one just hides the whole thing. I'd love me a combined vernier/digital caliper, advantages of both, cons of none. hmmmm. True, true, it isn't down to its OD so scratches aren't a problem... yet. It's just such a nice finish it'll be a shame if you scratch it. .... Can tape be good soft jaws? hahahah i need to stop with the tape.

Me thinks I will skip the tape 🤔

Aw, c'mon MSfN you know you want to try some tape... Or you can bend some fancy soft jaws for the calipers. :D

Balancing is the clients responsibilty depending on his tolerances required. Uneven distribution of alloying materials within the metal when cast would affect the balance of even a perfectly machined CNC part. For absolute precision balancing is required.

The radius was at my discretion, he indicated a 2mm inside radius but made it clear that was not set in stone.

And, thus, exactly, that inside radius being up to your choice affects the final weight of the gyroscope, meaning it isn't very precision... A precise gyroscope has exact weight on the edge, meaning a certain torque produces a certain rpm, a certain momentum. That gets skewered by weight differences. Small radius means less weight means more fast spinning. Large radius means more weight means less fast spinning.

Many factors involved in gyroscopes....I am just doing the best I possibly can. The client knows I dont own a CNC VMC

The customer supplied dimension parameters...not weight. Just following the drawing

I wasnt able to fit a dial indicator on the headstock side of the carriage with the tools I had so had to come in from the other side. I have a carriage stop but is too large to fit with the short width of the thin disc in the chuck....a new one is in order. Not much room on an Atlas 12" with short work like that. I like you questioning stuff I do...its how one learns....from others input. Thanks!

Maybe we should all go over to your channel to see how it's done right. Oh that's right, I did and there is nothing there. Typical troll.

You had the little machinist arm thingy, surely it could've fit SOMEWHERE? You can mount it anywhere including on the bed, or on the metal under the chuck, and let the carriage push into the indicator's arm. Maybe you should make yourself a new carriage stop. They don't need to be amazing, just grapple onto the bed and not scratch it. You can makeshift one by using the lathe as a milling machine. Just make sure everything is nice and tight and not movable by hand, or you'll have bits flying everywhere. Yeah it's easy to question others :D I always look for the best way AND alternatives to doing one thing. Sometimes alternatives are required, or lead to better hybrid techniques.

... troll? ehhh sounds like you derailed your carriage and are off your rocker. I'll put into consideration putting some machining vids sometime maybe.