i think you should coldblue the steel parts, black steel and brass look really soothing!

Necessity is the mother of invention. You needed it, you invented it! Nice work! 🙂

Great idea having clamp fixturing on the top of the jack! 👍

As to the M4 holes you mention being oversized. If you used a standard M4 tap you would have gotten an M4x07 thread. That means that the predrill size is 4-0.7=3.3mm. And you say you used a 3.5mm drill. That's why they were so oversized. P.S. Really good video, btw. Great tips and easy to watch.

My first lathe was a little prewar 3 3/8 inch Zyto. Parting off was always always tricky and unreliable. Several of the books from that era for the 'Amateur machinist' suggested making a rear toolpost with the parting tool mounted up side down. I made one and it worked a treat. May be worth trying on your lathe. For lubrication I use a small (~35cc) plastic bottle with a fine tip hollow needle, you can get the needle into the parting groove and maintain a constant dribble of lubricant. The bottles with needles are a couple of dollars from 'Banggood' direct from China. A great source of 'free' lubricating oil is from vehicle differential casings. I did a full service of my old 4X4 and now I have enough oil for a lifetime! Cheers Paul in NZ

This is a fine idea, nicely produced. Thank you for sharing it.

Nice work, good planning, design and using the cap screw was spot on why reinvent the wheel as it is already round. Knurling nice touch, just love that feel always have. Thank you. Lance & Patrick.

This little machinist jacks can be useful in lots lots of different setups. Nice build.

Nice follow-up Alistair, Well done!! I look forward to seeing what you're working on next. regards Colin

Good job - I too have a small lathe and i do get inspiration from your channel. Thank you.

Great videos you post . Highly professional well annotated and good learning for us. Thank you

If I m going to part off parts I will put a piece of material in the drill chuck in my tailstock to fit inside the drilled hole to catch the parts as they are parted off

nice job ! the jack came out great !

Well done!

Beautiful. I wish I could do work like that.

Great design. Never thought of a jack like this.

Well done.

Thank you for the knowledge provided

That's good thinking, good design and good work.

Nicely done!

New subscriber. Already a fan. Thanks for sharing.

I am a new subscriber. I really enjoy your content. Thank you.

Hi Alistair - great video and great result . I also like having some more insight into the small machinist jack that you made for my secret santa gift! Your video quality is excellent and an inspires me to get my voice overs, sped up sections and lighting and audio quality up to scratch! Using the off-the-shelf cap head screw and turning and facing the head down precisely was a good idea. I will keep that in the bag of tricks. Much faster and easier than turning and threading a section of round bar. You may have seen in a recent video or two of mine that I have acquired a very large (!) mill. Well - since then I have also acquired a "very small lathe". Smaller than your proxxon! it's a TAIG micro lathe. It needs a clean up and a tune up, but I will be doing that in a future video. I want to see what the little thing is capable of. I'll be looking at your channel to get some ideas :-) Good trick with the vice burr removal. I have never seen that but it makes loads of sense. Only change I would make would be to face off the ends of the clamp bar. No doubt you've already done that off camera. Cheers, Craig (in Tasmania)

Nice to the the follow up, thank you! I don't remember who, but I do remember someone put a slight taper on the cutoff tool so that it cut the work piece off ahead of the rest of the cut! This left a fairly clean edge with very little burr. Agree with other posters, cold bluing would look nice.

Build another one that was entertaining thank you.

Thanks for sharing

Thanks

Great work I need to make myself one next 👍

Great . guys.

I love you work.

Nice mahing and explain thanks for share

heh about the M4 hardware, what I usually do is buy a pile of X screw flavor of the project, and end up with X*.5 left over by the end of the project cause I didn't buy enough and bought some more, next project I think "well heck I have a pile of these screws" end up a couple too few and start the vicious cycle all over again

nice. I think an additional inserted magnet on the bottom would serve well. Enjoy your videos! :)

Ticks me off what a ton of work it is just for a helper tool for another tool for a project.

Nice.

I also have one of those protractors, or one very similar. Very nicely made. How they manage to made them so cheap??

Shortcuts forgiven.

15:17 and now, the eternal debate of whether the piece should be a multiple of the wheel ... :P

Just use two double nut and some all thread and mill a slot in top one the doubles nuts for your work piece to rest in A flanged nut works great hold the top still and turn the nut and up she goes

Very nice video! Not sure how I didn't come across this channel earlier. At about 3:50 when you were spot drilling, it looked like the spot drill wandered a bit before biting in. Am I interpreting the video correctly, or is it just some sort of illusion. Watched again using frame by frame advance, looks like it bent a little to the left. Perhaps less stickout would reduce or eliminate that. Was that a high-speed steel bit or carbide?

Just a nitpick but at 1:46 it looks like something is out of tram. The groove looks wider in the back than in the front. It could be the chuck jaws have a wobble in the lathe, or the lathe is cutting a taper or perhaps your mill vise is out of alignment. It also looks like the center of the groove is bloated slightly, which would indicate your cross slide is not at a perfectly 90 degree angle with the lathe ways (usually cross slides have a tolerance bias so that facing cuts tend to be dished rather than convex, as the latter causes problems when stacking).

You had asked what things your viewers would like to see you build on the boley or the VSL . Have you considered taking a page out of Clicksprings book ? Instead of a clock or the Antikythera mechanism. How about the Ferguson paradox orrery? It's just difficult enough to test the VSL but not as complex as to make you insane ?

"Hey man how that clamp on top going to hold anythang down" said boudreaux " boudreaux you big dummy what you thank gravity four" said pedro Maybe boudreaux is onto something here what's to keep the V cap from lifting off the jack screw. Could use a hold down clap no need for the top piece. liked your video or I would not have commented.

LovelY!

How do you demagnetize a vise? (or any big chuck of metal)

Nice Video !!! But 16:14 a wrong tool is used. The straight chisel is normally used for grooving. For cutting of material you should use a chisel that has a slight angle. Yes you can use a straight chisel but its not right. Just had to say it.

Please explain your comment about the cutting speed getting slower as you move towards the center of the part... If you are using a power feed with your machine set at a certain feed rate that will remain constant no matter how far it travels. The diameter of the part getting smaller will rotate faster but this does not actually change your feed rate even without actually changing the rpm's of your chuck either.

Nice video Please get use to chamfer after finishing the operation. it keeps the error from burrs to minimum. also buy a set of deburring tool or make them like clickspring. deburring with vise isn't that good. my two cents.

Why was the endmill sticking out 3 miles????

Совершенно непонятно, с какой целью резьбовая часть выполнена отдельно от одной из половин корпуса. Если бы она была одним целым с верхней или нижней частью домкрата, то отпала бы необходимость в дополнительной гайке, а настройку можно было бы осуществлять вращением нижней части, потому что она абсолютно ровная и все равно в каком положении она повернута.

"Just One Fixture" Is that a Ministry reference?

Aling only with 100rpm... Better result and longer life for ale :)

You are using the proxxon mill for the groove right? Why do you angle the workpiece in the vise, instead of tilting the mill head? Rigidity?

Very nice! If you want more subs, feel free to embed your video on our homemade tools forum; looks like you're one of us :-)

Oh, aren't you so perfect. Sorry. I just envious. >

Just a few things, firstly where is the precision that is spoken about in the title? Its just a screw jack with an unnecessary clamp on top. It would have been better to just use a finger clamp that utilises the tee slot in the bed of the machine to hold the material down to the top as it is shown the jack is just sitting down on the bed of the machine and realistically the use of any clamp on top is not needed. Secondly you should be running your countersinks at the slowest speed you have on the machine as it will give you better finishes and reduce vibration and will increase tool life. The reason you were having trouble cutting the stainless head is due to the speed and feeds you were using not because of the material and possibly the grade and type of carbide you were using. As seen in other videos carbide tools only cut in one direction but you persist in cutting in 2 which will reduce the tool life and put unnecessary pressures on the tool and holder. Please learn how to set you tools on the centre height of your material as every time I watch one of your videos it gives me a head ache. Learn what are the correct speeds and feeds are for the materials and tools you are using and you will achieve better tool finishes. Socket head cap screw heads are not supposed to be accurate due to the way they are manufactured so I do not know why you made the comment you did. You reamed a hole then cleaned up the square corners with an endmill but you could have just used the endmill without having to ream thus saving time and achieved the same accuracy. If you do ream you should reduce the speed to a third of what you drilled the hole at. If you do not know this information then please do not add incorrect comments as you are teaching idiots dangerous practices and if someone is hurt following your directions then you should be jailed, the same as if I was teaching an apprentice. BTW I am a tradesmen with 40 years of experience in Fitting and machining, toolmaking and CNC operation and channels like yours should all be shut down. These machines are not toys and can lead to death in the hands of the untrained which seems to be most channels on KZfaq.

9:58 #firstworldproblems

The endmill sounds like a donkey braying. I this contributing to public discourse? The vid was really well done.

Your endurance is impressive, but it's painful to watch such horrible tools you endure with. amazing

Regardless of how easy it may be to work with, Leaded Steel is probably something that you should avoid working with. Lead is considered hazardous waste for a reason.

I think you shouldn't run reamers so fast... :D

at least show it's usage

This guy Obviously Doesn;t understand FEEDS and SPEEDS lol his spindle speeds are way to fast for what he is Machining Just look at his TOOL CHATTER when he countersinks in aluminum ! Most Novice Machinists are alike , TOO Much Spindle Speed !!

Precise? You made it by eye. This is a piece of sh... I think not enough washers..you need more washers for precision!